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  1. Hey everyone, I have a Nissan skyline 350GT CPV35 2004 and I just changed the clock spring. (OEM PART FROM NISSAN DEALERSHIP) Been driving it for a month, after getting the codes cleared, and the car tested from the auto electrician. The ABS has been kicking in way more than normal. My old clock spring I didn't even notice it but driving fast through bends and corners makes the car "spaz" out with the abs sounds and tries overly breaking for me, to the point wheres its feels dangerous. Should I get it retuned? Take it back to the auto electricians? Any advice would help.
  2. Hi team. I decided to move my 2005 V35 Coupe on (got tired of having a boot only big enough for a bunch of bananas) and bought a 2013 370GT Crossover - or the Infiniti EX37, depending on what side of the ocean you're on. I'm curious to know if anyone else here has decided to go the same way, or perhaps thinking to. Very happy with the Crossover - I can actually put my whole mountain bike into the back - but I'm missing my coupe on the roundabouts... Also having issues with the dealer I bought it from (it's the first 2013 and it wasn't complied properly, and I'm having issues getting him to come good), so sadly my bonding experience has been impacted. Happy to share specifics about the car if anyone is remotely interested.
  3. Hi, trying to look for a good coolant hose kit to replace on my rb25det Non neo. All the small coolant hoses under the intake manifold and heater hoses, had a look on kudos and couldn’t find anything. Ebay only showed hoses from China and not really a fan of getting cheap quality products. Anyone have an idea of where to get a full hose kit?
  4. Hey everyone, I've got an R34 GTT manual turbo from an auction. The goal is to get it road registered in WA but I've ran into some issues and I need some help. I took it for a test drive today and the following happened: All 4 wheels/brakes siezed after driving approx 3km with no issues and an idle warm up. Smelt burning and saw smoke coming from engine bay, passenger side, but no drastic change in temp on gauges. never happened when idle testing. Idling poorly after driving Things that I know need to be fixed on the car prior to this happening: No immobilizer and a lot of loose wiring around the column (pictured) Fans and AC don't blow out Needs wheel allignment Needs new clutch, struggles going into gears etc. Needs new gearbox oil The plan was to get the immobilizer installed tomorrow but it now has to go to a mechanic to get these new issues fixed. I would be grateful for any ideas and advice.
  5. 1993 skyline r33r impul 4 door 2.6 gtr motor single turbo 5 spd twin plate clutch Gtr brakes with flexible braided lines In tank internal pump to swirl pot to 2x external 340lph bosch fuel pumps. Link ECU Yolk 18x235 front and 18x265 rear rims. Tien adjustable coil overs with adjustable dampening control unit in dash. Also whiteline front and back stabiliser bars. Handles good for age. Engine had extensive work internally. Crack tested, blueprinted and balanced. All aftermarket exceeding 50k to build. All engine work done by all star garage Perth. Currently driving with stock lsd but have a tomei locker included, just in pieces chasing bearing and seal kit to rebuild. 3" stainless Jasma exhaust with screamer pipe too. the last photo shows the front bumper not the best and bonnet got a dent at the very front. All up probably 5 to 6 minor dents and a few stone chips but overall still a really nice car with no major work to restore to its former glory. Really nice to drive and a headturner too not to mention eats hsv gts's and fpv gt's for breakfast!!! Not to mention gtr's, gtst's too! Very hard to obey the speed limit and nothing sounds better than hitting boost hearing the screamer pipe do it's job!!! I want 20k firm, no dreamers, no tyre kickers and if you know what your looking at price self explanatory. I'm not desperate to sell and the longer I have the more I will do to it and probably decide to keep. Please text me to enquire and a good time to ring you as I work long hrs. Thank you. Email : [email protected] Phone : 0477582361
  6. Asking price : 12,500 ONO URGENT SALE - Will be sold Skyline 350GT V36 / Infiniti G35 Very reliable vehicle. This is the second Skyline V36 I have owned. Absolutely brilliant to drive and 0 issues compared to the BMW 3 series E46. European performance, Japanese reliability Bulletproof VQ36-HR Engine. The VQ engine series has been on Wards worlds 10 best engine for 17 years! Proof of Rock Solid Japanese Engineering. Well maintained, only original spares from City Nissan for brakes etc. Come test drive and understand how well maintained this car is. Super smooth engine. Arguably the best color combination - Pearl white exterior and Full black Leather interior. Owned from 70,000 KM 0 to 100 km/h in 5.4s Super roadholding, drives like its on rails Only the best treatment - Always Garaged. Near new Premium Hankook Ventus S1 Noble 2 tyres Always fuelled with 98 Ron fuel only. Spare interior carpet (near new) White lights - Door, Boot and Plates 2 x keys This is my pride and Joy. Super sad to see it go, only selling as I'm moving to OZ Steering wheel paddle shift controls with rev matched downshifts 18 inch Factory mags (225 front and 245 rear) ABS brakes Stability and traction control Electronic Brake Distribution (EBD) Braking Assist (BA) Sunroof VDC (stability control) Smart keyless entry Push Button START Well maintained Leather interior HDD / navigation system Heated seats Auto Seat and Steering clearance on exit - Seat and Steering moves out of your way for easy exit Bluetooth Audio and Phone connectivity Reversing and side parking cameras Super safe car - 5 STAR Emergency brake operated pre-crash seatbelt tensioners Dual xenon headlights - Active Adaptive AFS (Active Front lighting System) - follows your turn in those tight bendy roads Heated door mirrors 8 way power seats with driver memory Dual zone climate control LED tail lights Auto Shut side mirrors on remote lock Auto Angle side mirrors on Reverse Electric Steering Tilt and adjust Number plate JYE256 Kilometres 126,000km Body White, 4 door, Sedan Seats 5 Fuel type Petrol Engine 6 cylinder, 3498cc Transmission Automatic History 1 owner, Imported Registration expires Dec 2018 WoF expires This month Stereo description Factory Standard Bluetooth 9.5GB HDD - records your CDs into memory automatically ! Model detail 350GT Type SP
  7. Does anyone know of a fuel pump that I can "directly" replace the factory one with for my N/A r33 GTS. Yes I know there's upgrade kits for more pressure etc, I'm not looking to make power I just want to replace the old pump without messing around with wiring etc, just want to direct swap it for a new one whether it be oem or aftermarket that direct fits to original bracket/wires. Cheers
  8. Good Evening All! I am new to this forum and am very pleased to be here as it means I have finally bought my dream car, and 1998 R34 GTT. I have been coveting a skyline since I was a kid and after owning many many different cars I decided I would buy my lifer, the one I had really wanted but had fallen by the wayside. There is just one problem.. It. Is. Ugly. As. Sin. Seriously the last owner must of not cleaned it the entire miserable time he owned it, not to mention deciding that carparks were the perfect place to practice his destruction derby skills, then covering it in "hilarious" bandaid stickers as if to say "whoops". There is a good chance this car is the ugliest one in NSW however under the dust and grime and cosmetic damage I could see a glimmer of potential. I was concerned for it when I saw it, and by the time I drove it home I was in love with it. Brace yourselves you may want a drink before looking at these, much to my wife's credit she trusted me to buy this (for a bargain of a price), keep in mind these pictures make the car actually look BETTER than it did in person.
  9. So I just got bodywork done my car as I had rust forming near both strut towers in the engine bay. I put the strut bolts back on and it dug into the paint and now I have bare metal exposed in the engine bay. What should I use to prevent rust from forming on the bare metal? I just spent a pretty penny getting the rust taken care of and I would hate to have to take care of it again. Anyone have any suggestions on what I should use to prevent this from happening?
  10. Hey guys... Not a very frequent poster here so bear with me please. In the process of getting all the varying issues on my R34 sorted before I take it in for tune (boost was previously turned right down as I bed in a new head gasket). One of those 'issues' is with the intake piping, the oil breather line from the crank case is currently not connected to well, anything. It's just hanging down through the engine bay to under the car. Obviously this is not ideal and the tuner mentioned I would want to get some sort of catch can setup before bringing the car in. I don't want to feed the oil line back into the intake which I guess means I'll be venting it to atmosphere. After searching and reading through a tonne of threads on this forum and others I'm still no clearer as to what I need to buy unfortunately, as it seems all catch cans seem to have two inlets whereas I only appear to have one line that needs to be connected. Pic for reference, not exactly an up to date one unfortunately but it shows the line I'm talking about clearly enough. Can anyone advise me on this? Secondary question, from everything I've read for venting to atmosphere it's said the PCV should be blocked, is there any real issue likely to come from not doing that? Cheers
  11. Hey guys Sold my car and have some parts that never got a chance of using and some OEM used ones, basically a garage clean out will keep adding as i find more stuff. 1) Brand New in unopened box CST Type Vettel V36 coilovers fully adjustable with 14k front and 9k rear spring rates and 16 way damper. These are made in Japan and distributed by Tanabe. $1500 ono (pic of suspension out of box from google, i havent opened my box yet) 2) Blitz Power-sus intake panel filters also BNIB $120 3) V36 Type S and SP front lip kit ( Fibreglass sides with CF middle part, see pics) $550 ONO 4) RS-S LowDown springs BNIB $400 5) OEM Used Exhaust axle back Muffler and y-pipe $100 6) OEM Used Manifold $100 (good for anyone needing to send one into z1motorsports as core unit) 7) OEM Used rear chrome bootlip $50 8) OEM Used 18" V36 Coupe wheels made by enkei in excellent condition need tires $500 9) OEM Used 18" V36 Sedan Type SP wheels also in excellent condition (front tires good, rears need replacing) $500 10) BNIB plug and play V36 cruise control kit (comes with a little wheel knob that can be used to set/cancel and increase/decrease speed see pics) $500 ONO Thats all from the top of my head, like i said if i find more stuff ill keep adding. Offers only accepted if i have put an ONO next to the price or else its non-negotiable. PM will be the best way for enquiries and everything located Southwest of Brisbane
  12. Hello all, I've been contemplating about putting a red top Barra engine into a R32 gtst coupe to make it a good reliable weekend warrior drift car and a daily driver at the same time. That's why I am here to ask some questions and learn from yall. Since the Barra makes a lot more torque even in stock form, should I use a stronger diff from other brands or will a Nismo 2 way LSD do just fine? Also what axles would you recommend? (preferably if the items are compatible with the R32 without a lot of fabrication) I've heard the Barra comes with a T56 manual 6 speed gearboxe, does the shifter still sit at the OEM location as the R32 original one? In terms of the Barra engine itself I've done some research and learned that you need to address the valve springs and change to billet oil pump gears and so on, more suggestions will be appreciated as I want to learn as much as possible! (I am most likely going to go about 550whp/410kw and keep the power at that level, not chasing too much power.) Also here is one big question: How much kg does the Barra long block itself weight? I've been searching on the internet and couldn't seem to find a confident answer. I want to know this because I want the car to have good handling, some people say the Barra is heavier than a RB30, some people say its actually lighter than both a JZ or RB, if anyone here has measured a Barra long block on a scale please let me know ? If there are more things that I should look into please feel free to add ? Thanks in advance!! ?
  13. Hi Guys. I'm searching information about stock,factory tint in R34. Does Skylines,especially Vspec models ever had ALL windows tinted before worldwide amendment when all automakers decided to tint every window in every car after 2000s? . I assume Nissan did it in 2001 and later,but 1999 and 2000 is under question mark,at least for me.Im talking about factory window tint regarding to all windows which fits in law regulations.If you know something about it,im listening,especially how much percentage it was tinted regarding skylines. Greets.
  14. I’ve been f**king around with the lifters in my rb trying to get them to stop ticking. But when I’ve gone to put the cams back in I just realised it’s basically impossible to re seat the timeing belt on the cam gears. I know your meant to use the tensioner to get the belt back on. But to get to it is a bloody pain I’d have to remove my rad and harmonic balancer (which I also don’t have a puller for) and if possible would like to skip all that extra work. Does any one know any little tricks that I can use to get the belt back on the gears without haveing to use the tensioner. I’m guessing I’m probably just gona have to suck it up and do it properly but hey why not ask ?‍♂️
  15. Hey guys, I have for sale an LS1 swap kit for an R34 Skyline. I originally bought it for my 25GT as an alternative to buying a turbo model but unfortunately the kit outlived the car and I've since moved on to a Silvia so have no need for this stuff any more. The kit is top-notch quality made by Fueled Racing in Phoenix, Arizona, guys did an absolutely amazing job putting this thing together. Comes with everything you'd reasonably need to fit an LS1, including headers, engine mounts, custom oil pan, transmission mounts and a single-piece drive shaft, as well as a few other odds and ends. The kit makes use of an S-chassis k-frame for better oil pan clearance and is backed by a 4L60E automatic transmission. Have a tonne of emails from the guys at Fueled detailing the ins and outs of the kit that can be provided if you need but the kit is mostly self-explanatory,what you see is what you get. Unsure as to whether the kit can be utilised in other vehicles, might fit an R33 or Stagea if you're lucky but buy at your own risk. Headers should in theory bolt up to most LS models but can't confirm this. I'm located in Melbourne, Victoria, local pick-up is preferred but can probably organise shipping at buyer's expense. Chasing $3800 but am open to negotiation, would rather not split up the kit if I can help it but hit me up and we can work something out.
  16. Hi everyone! Just wandering if the 1999 Skyline GTT r34's are affected by the huge takata airbag recall? I've had a look around and couldn't find anything =\
  17. Hi All, Recently my A/C would only blow stinking hot air which was awfully uncomfortable to drive in but it's been too cold to have it off. It started off that it was sporadic but eventually got worse. After some soul searching I found out that the part is a the Air Mix/Blend actuator which controls how much fresh air vs heater air comes through the vents. Tools/Requirements: - Soldering Iron and Solder - Assorted Phillips head and flat head screw drivers - Vice to hold everything - Power supply to test the motor itself - Permanent marker to mark existing points - Sand paper Difficulty: - Low Time Required: - 1 Hour Optional: - Brand new OEM mix actuator - Used OEM working mix actuator 1) Start by testing the actuator using the diagnostics system - If you have error 26, the problem is most certainly the actuator http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426605-aircon-diagnostics-r33/ 2) Locate the actuator under the drivers side dash to the left 3) Remove cap holding the actuator rod in place, mark the rod for reference and pop the rod out of it's "seat" 4) Disconnect the wiring connector from the mix actuator 5) Remove the three securing screws shown below and take the actuator out of the car *over to the bench* 6) Mark some reference points on the arm for the actuator - This will make it easier to assemble again later 7) Unscrew the actuator off its mounting bracket 8) Remove the two screws that seal the housing 9) Using a flat head screwdriver gently pry the arm off the actuator 10) Separate the two clips that hold the housing together from the side and gently open the actuator case 11) Remove all of the little gears from the housing and set them aside somewhere they won't roll away 12) Remove the circuit board and motor from the housing to reveal the last large gear with contacts on it 13) Gently bend the contacts upwards to ensure they haven't been worn out and bent over time - Give the contacts a light sand at while you're at it 14) Clean the contact surface on the circuit board - I wasn't sure what sort of grease this was so I left a thin coat on the board anyway 15) Connect a power source to the motor terminals to ensure the motor still functions - If not see the options above or look at a replacement motor (from Jaycar or other electronics stores or eBay) 16) Take your soldering iron and melt the solder on the joints of the board - Take the time to add a bit more solder where necessary 17) If all went well work your way back from step 12 and test the actuator again
  18. So basically I've had this r34 gtv skyline for a while Its a 2001 / Coupe / Manual / GTV / NA / Imported On the rear it has a red rear fog light where the drivers side reverse light should me on a r34 skyline The option to turn it on in next to the light switch on steering wheel Research seems to lead me nowhere Is this special or just standard?
  19. Hey guys, I recently installed a new cluster and when i went for the first drive everything seems to work fine except for the speedo. i cant seem to work out whats wrong with it, all the other gauges work fine, i just cant see the speed im travelling. any help would be great
  20. EOI: R32 GTR Heated Mirrors, Wiring Harness & Window Switch I have a pair of factory optioned heated R32 GTR Mirrors in black. Comes with door wiring harness, drivers side switch panel & both mirrors. Happy to ship at buyers expensive, otherwise pickup from Revesby (Sydney, NSW) EOI only at this point. $500 (Photo of actual items coming soon)
  21. Would love to see everyone's GTR's So i'll start it off. hrere's mine "99 BNR34 in Bayside Blue
  22. Hi team, I have been following threads on this site for years and referring back to it whenever I'm in need of GTR advice. The R33 GTR has forever been my dream car and i recently purchased my very own around months ago at 24 years old. I inspected multiple R33's before finding my ideal one. Here is a basic description and some photos of my ride: 1995 Skyline R33 GTR V Spec in QM1 HKS GT2530 Twin Turbo Kit Complete HKS Exhaust with custom modification to Y pipe (straight through stainless steel from cat to rear muffler) Blitz FMIC Link G2 Ecu (yes i know it is old) BC Gold Coilovers Nismo Air Filter Oil Catch Can with Braided Lines These photos are prior to me purchasing my new wheels Cheers!!!
  23. Hi all! *** 2K for the lot ***Garage Clearance TimeIf no photos of what I have described, just ask.Just sick of timewasters so take the lot for 2k!6 x Denso 195500-2240 Injectors1 x JR Pod Filter4 x Jecs A46-00 Injectors1 x Nissan RB26 block1 x Universal Catalytic Converter 2 & 3 way – 5.9L / 6000LBS – 4” Round / 11” Long / 3” Ends5 x New CP Piston Rings CPN-340650 x Oil Filters1 x Microtech LT-8s Sequential Fire Ver. 10 ECU2 x Garrett Turbo 466071-6C (stock off an R33)1 x Power Distribution Block 1x0GA into 4x4GA1 x Jecs MAF Mass Air Flow Meter A36-000 N62 / 22680 30P001 x Malpassi Fuel Injection Regulator1 x R33 Twin Turbo Pipe1 x SX Performance Fuel Regulator 154041 x Nissan ECU A11-000 RG3 - S131 x Nissan ECU A11-000 G90 - S131 x Set of 6 CP Carrillo forged Pistons suit RB30/261 x SR20 Crank Shaft 60J401 x SR20 Red Top Block1 x SR20 Black Top Block (non VCT)1 x 52F SR20 BlockBrisbane Location - FREE delivery
  24. Hi all, I'm spending a few months in your lovely city of Sydney doing some work at the Garden Island naval base. I believe my Stagea (rb25det neo) requires an exhaust manifold gasket. Whining when warming up from cold, chuffing/ticking when hot. It has 200k kms and a highflowed turbo by hypergear roughly 35k kms ago. Where is somewhere reliable and knowledgeable I can take it? I have searched and the threads are a few years old so just want the most current info incase someones favorite mechanic has moved on elsewhere etc. Currently staying in Coogee. Anywhere between GI and Coogee would be a bonus but I realise most places will be west but that doesn't matter as I don't need the car thru the week. Japlink seemed to be mentioned in a few threads. Still on a winner if I contact them? Cheers fellas
  25. hey all sold my r32 a bit ago now looking for a 180sx, r32 or r33 turbo and manual. must have reg if not rego can try work around that. dont wanna spend too much either. so prices are strict. i remember when i used to buy skylines for around 2,000 about 9 years ago. up to 5k to spend on a car. let me know, post here or inbox cheers.
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