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About N155@N

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    Rank: RB20DET

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    R33 GT-R
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  1. Hi SAU, Looking to buy a healthy R34 GTR Getrag 6 gearbox. It's going into an R33 GTR, so if you have any of the conversion pieces (diffs, drive shafts, mounts, etc.) i'll also be interested in those. Please contact me here. Thanks, Josh
  2. Hi SAU, Came across this website https://www.lmctplus.com/, GTRs supposedly being sold below market value (whatever that is) at $1 reserve auctions. Anyone have any experience with these guys? They gave away a Mines 34R from Vspec Performance here in Melbourne, to some kid in Sydney. They have a 410kw R33 GTR up for auction now https://www.lmctplus.com/1-auctions/ looks to have VIC rego. How would you go about viewing the car? No one in their right mind would just bid on a GTR without seeing it first right? Is it all too good to be true? There must be a catch? I have seen some of their cars for sale on Carsales, not sure if they're still there though. I am tempted to pay the $20 for the one month membership just to see where the prices reach, has there been any feedback coverage of past auction winners? Can't seem to find any result for LMCTPlus here on SAU. If it's legit then surely this would be an awesome way of getting an R!
  3. Yeah the vents are functional (http://topstage.com/product/v3-twin-aero-vents-type-1/), custom mounted by previous owner. As for the wheels; TE37SL pressed graphite. Yeah haven't seen anyone else with these garage defend type canards, or this type of gt wing either.
  4. Hi guys, finally have been able to check car again today (been very busy). Went for a drive again, refrained from giving it any stick, no battery light no charging issue (20min drive with two 'car off then car on' situations). The moment I accelerate hard, guess what, light comes on. Had a talk with my mechanic, says its definitely a wire that's loose somewhere since I'm able to cruise without issue, without boost of course. Recommended just wiggling appropriate wires till I find the culprit. I've gone and done this, battery terminal seems scratched up, cable seems fine no rust at all. As for the negative cable to the chassis, is this the one below the front fuse box? If it is, it looks fine, but I'll be giving it a clean soon. I'm rather inexperienced, where exactly is/are the chassis ground/s? As for checking the alternator cables, is it simple as reaching through to the back of the unit and checking if anything is loose? The mechanic says it could be any cable from battery to alternator, to fuse box, to engine, etc. How would I be able to check any of these? I should've asked him, but I felt he was a little busy. Would I be able to check all these cables/wires just from the engine bay, or would I need to go through interior (rear shelf/seat area) or boot?
  5. Alrighty, went for a drive (car driving like shit due to the aforementioned AFRs/lack of voltage supply to injectors) hooked up multi-meter at different points of time and got the following results: Car off: 13v front fuse box and rear (battery) Idle: [NO warning light] 14.38v front and 14.25v rear First time hitting boost (~15mins of driving): [Warning light comes on] 12.28v front and 12.3v rear ~30mins of driving: [Warning light still on] 11.87v front and 11.84v rear Car off: 12.24v front and 12.18v rear So just like when I first encountered this problem, the light comes on when I give it a hit on the throttle for the first time on a drive. I always let the car warm up before I play around. I'm not the most mechanically minded individual but could it be possible that hitting boost is causing some sort of surge? As I continued driving, the light would flicker on/off when I would increase throttle position... sometimes. Other times, even if I reach 7000rpm the warning would remain. Is it normal for any car to have a higher voltage reading after a drive than during the drive? Are you referring to the grounds? If you are, I only know of one (next to front fuse box). This looked fine in terms of tightness and contact. No idea where the other grounds are lol. If this is the case then do you think my mechanic will fix it (for free)? After all they did do the work and said it was new. Anyway is it possible to access this wire without lifting the vehicle (don't have the tools)? I had a look today and all I can see is a plug that attaches to the side of the unit. Don't remember being able to reach the back, or maybe I didn't try hard enough lol? Before the drive I did a thorough check to see if any fuse/terminal was loose, and well everything was tight and properly contacting. What else should I check? Thanks again guys
  6. Hi SAU, Been having issues with my R33 GT-R. Battery warning light comes on at random times. Recently (1.5 months ago) had new alternator fitted, and new battery fitted (2 months ago). Car is used once a week and is always hooked up to a trickle charger. Between the time I had the new alternator fitted and today, car was running perfect, i.e no warning lights. Was at a stop light and decided to give it a 1st gear pull. What ensued was the battery warning light turning on and my tune getting messed up (AFRs reaching 15.9 with no throttle input, misfiring etc). Kept cruising for a bit, then decided to pullover and shut car off. Once I got going again warning light was gone, only for it to come back after a couple of hundred meters of driving. It should also be noted this is at night, with lights, and radio on only. I noticed that the warning light would turn off if I revved the car up aggressively (5000rpm+), at a stand still. Once revs dropped, light comes back on. However revving it up whilst moving would do nothing. Also when driving on bumpy parts of road, light flicks on and off, something must be loose right? I checked on the front and rear fuse boxes and everything seems to be plugged in. The high beams also struggle. The right side high beam comes on immediately while the left one has a little stroke before fully turning on. Oh and battery terminals are on nice and tight. Any ideas? I don't run any gear that would have heavy battery draw, and I get the car worked on by a reputable mechanic. In saying that, would it be possible for the alternator or battery to be malfunctioning this early in their lifespans? The car has traveled roughly 1000km+ since the new alternator was installed, no issues at all during that time. I will say though, the battery voltage while driving has never exceeded 13 volts, usually 12.x (with this new alternator). I think 14.x+ is the norm. Before I got this new alternator the voltage reading was around 10 to 11. When I got home I hooked up the trickle charger and it took a while for the light to go green (charged/maintaining). Usually after a drive, short or long, the red light on the trickle charger only lasts for less than 10secs, sometimes it goes green straight away. But today it took considerably longer than usual to go green, indicating the battery was not charging(?). Any and all help appreciated guys and gals, will have a chat to mechanic on Monday, however I thought I'd see if I could get quick help and fix straight away.
  7. Hi SAU, For sale is one of my Drift Blade, R34 GT-R replica, seats. Excellent/unused condition. NO RAILS with sale. $320.00 but open to offers Drift as a company are no longer existent. Purchased from friend back in the day with intentions of installing, but never got around to doing so. They've been sitting in storage all this time. As for rails you would need Bride MO Type rails corresponding to your vehicle. Contact me through here or text me on 0403677341
  8. Hi SAU, As title says, looking for a p-platers skyline for my brother. Will be used as a daily, so a reliable example would be most desirable. - must be manual, coupe, and n/a (GTS or 25GT) - maximum budget of $7500 - must be healthy mechanically for age (no leaks in engine, no gear crunching, etc) - not to fussed on interior/exterior condition (a bit of color fade not an issue) - r32 and r34 would be top preference, but r33 which meets requirement will also be considered (already have an r33) - any color - registrable in VIC - prefer it come with RWC, or at least in a condition where RWC would be easily obtainable - VIC located cars only please Contact me through this forum or PM me. Thanks, Josh
  9. As title says. Looking to fit it on my R33 GT-R. Looking for one in above average condition. Message me on here or sms me on 0403677341. Thanks, Josh
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