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Found 368 results

  1. Genuine Rays Gramlights 57F-PRO Forged Light weight Staggered setup 18x9 +37 5x114.3 18x7.5 +37 5x114.3 NO GUTTER RASH - one has a tiiiiny mark on it that's it basically looks new just needs a polish Rears 265/35/18 with very little tread 🤷‍♂️ Fronts 215/40/18 with 90% tread ✅ Kumho tyres Price : $2000 negotiable just throw me an offer RRP was $3000 without shipping to aus and now they are discontinued pretty sure. Located Western Sydney Mount Druitt Text me on 0490429175 if interested cheers .
  2. Brendons M35 build Thought I'd create a mini build thread on my progress with my first foray into Nissan wagon life and also a place to ask questions/path to follow. I bought the car with f**ked coil packs so I picked it up cheap off some Indian guy. Put a new set of coil packs in and all was sweet for the next 6 months . . . https://imageshack.com/i/pnV0vOWcj https://imageshack.com/i/pltD8QHij https://imageshack.com/i/popQVxMsj I noticed an oil leak from the passenger side that was slowly getting worse and traced it back to the oil feed line. Ah well no biggy, just an easy fix or so I thought! Having not worked on a VQ before, it wasn't until later on I discovered you can't get the line off without pulling the whole turbo Since the car wasn't far off 200k and the turbo had begun the Dyson whine song, I frantically searched for a new turbo. Scotty to the rescue with a Billet Intense he had spare that got to me in 4 days. In the mean time while the car was off the road I set about fabbing up a 3" bellmouth dump pipe. Then followed it up with a 3"-2.5" intake pipe. (Still need to weld on BOV return bung) And this weekend just gone I fabbed up a 3" catless exhaust system to finish it all off. I picked up 7psi of boost without touching a thing, so it's stuck on 21psi with standard injectors and pump. I've hit up Christian to see if it's possible to run the car safely at this level on 98 with his flash tune, otherwise I will probably put a hi-flow cat in to drop the boost a little. I've got a few other things in the works but all in due time!
  3. Hey guys and girls, It's a sad day but I've got to let it go as I've bought a tow car and can no longer keep the Stagea. I bought the car from Northshore Prestige back in 2011 (65,000km). Been looked after and undercover all its life here, serviced every 5000km. it has 11months Rego and is priced to sell. $12,000. (204kw@w & 750nm - Still on stock turbo @ 16psi) I'll start off with the extra's: Freeway Dolphin vented bonnet $1000ono G37 Akebono Brakes $2000ono HKS F-con V-pro ECU with PnP loom $1750ono the following list comes with the car......... K&N airfilter with custom power duct airbox mod. Scotty's Custom 3" Dump pipe. Full SS X-force 3" exhaust with 100cell cat, resonator and muffler with dual tips. BC Racing Coilovers, Whiteline Swaybars & Underbody bracing. 17mm Phenolic intake spacer with ceramic coated intake & pipes. Transgo Shift Kit with B&M trans cooler and thermo fan. (80deg) HDi 3" Intercooler Kit. Mishimoto Radiator and 76deg Nismo thermostat. Scotty's Water coolant mod (opens up the rear water gallery on the back of the block) Daleo's Custom 2.5" suction pipe. Scotty's custom 16PSI wastegate actuator. Turbosmart Dual port BOV. 18x8" Koya RG-Tek rims with RE003's 350Z 3.08:1 LSD diff HKS? Sandwitch plate and B&M oil cooler with thermo fan. (80deg) Power steering cooler. Blacked out AXIS grill / Blacked out front headlights. AXIS body kit with flairs. Nismo rear tailgate wing. V35 Facia with Kenwood DDX4031 Cd player/ Sat Nav/ Bluetooth etc etc AXIS floor mats & leather everything. Rear boot mat with pull out cover. Service history summarized. LSD diff service and installed with new fluid 10/2013 Gearbox flushed 112,500km 4/2016 Rocker cover gaskets replaced 4/2016 Coolant flush & Oil/filter 112,500 4/2016 Spark plugs & Oil/filter 120,000km 4/2017 K&N filter (after the BMC filter died) 124,500km 10/2017 Brake Fluid flush 124,500km 10/2017 Oil & filter 129,000km 2/2019 the belts have been replaced haven't noted down when but lubed every 5000km O2 sensor & AFM replaced 2017 New battery in 2017. New front disc's in 2017. I have a new pollen filter which hasn't been installed yet. and if your still reading: 2011 - all mod's except ECU 176kw@w on the DVS dyno 2012 - it made 204kw@w on the DVS dyno with a guess of 750nm of torque. 2012 - WISD 1/4 mile - 13.9sec (i think it was at 140km/h) 2014 - SMSP South Circuit - 1:08 with Nitto Semi slick's Hopefully i've covered everything but feel free to email me or send a msg (can't answer during business hours) tmuuldriks at gmail.com 0412 zero seven three 215 Thanks Theo.
  4. Hope this doesn't come across too self-marketingy... i'm not a business or anything, just a dude who couldn't find a Stagea shirt I liked, so played in Illustrator a bit until I made something I liked. Another member here I know IRL said to post here cos you guys might like it. If mods don't like this, I'm happy to remove it. http://bitly.com/doubleunicorn It's available there printed on a bunch of different products (t-shirts, stickers, hoodies, phone cases, etc), and you can pick a different colour base tshirt if you don't like the prechosen ones. If SAU wants to use the design as an SAU shirt or stickers, I'm totally happy with that, as you guys could get it made cheaper anyway. I get like a dollar of each sale from the above link, so it's barely worth the effort other than cos I wanted a t-shirt and sticker of it myself.
  5. hi all I have a Series 1 Stagea that had RB25DET auto, motor died, SO ive got a RB25DET neo manual with matching Loom,ECU.(Motor is in car now) I understand that the series 1 fuse box is different and after searching know that ABS, Atessa and AC wont work. Has Someone wired this correctly to fix these issues, am wondering if i just have to re-pin the body plug to suit the series 1 pin out. sorry if newbie question struggling to find info on this. Thanks all.
  6. Selling a set of underbody braces to fit a M35 Stagea. $200 Painted black and attempted to test fit, but quickly r ealised that they don't fit the NA/RWD Stageas... oops! Also selling a pair of resonated test pipes for a VQ35DE. Brand new still in plastic, just decided to go another route. $150 Also-also selling some Lexani tyres that came off my current rims. Tread is at least 75%. $100 Also-also-also selling some 20" rims in another ad I've posted.
  7. Heya! I just got my Nissan Stagea RS Four V today and I'm overly excited about it. Bought it back in November and just got it home today. It's my first JDM car, and Station Wagon. Already I've gotten a lot of looks in it. I hope location isn't a matter, because this is about the only forums I found with anything on the Stagea so here I am.
  8. Hey, I've only just got my Stagea S2 today, and as luck would have it, the driver side headlight bulb exploded. However I'm struggling to figure out what bulb to replace it with. I've seen different answers with the D2R, H1, H1R1, H4, H3, and others. What I want to know, is which light is which, so I know what to replace. There is the outside quarter lights, with a large and small bulb on the inside. Then the inner quarter lights (Brights I think?) in the grill. And then the rectangle lights on the bumper. And for each light, which size bulb do they take?
  9. If anyone needs the complete english Workshop manual for this engine i have it and am happy to share it with you, in pdf form. Cooling system https://ufile.io/7b31q Engine control https://ufile.io/ltv1r Engine Mechanical https://ufile.io/8ygvm Exhaust https://ufile.io/fny97 Lubrication https://ufile.io/ao98k Starting system https://ufile.io/znhl7 says it will expire in 30days let me know if you need it reuploaded. please keep it on the dl as not sure about the legalities behind sharing it.
  10. Alrighty guys so this guide/ build log/ r&d will outline how i installed the entire cruise control system from an a32 nissan maxima into my 2000 wgnc34 nissan stagea rsfours type b. So firstly I’ll just state I am just a 19 year old who has absolutely no qualifications, just an interest in electronics and car audio with, in the big scheme of things, not much experience at all. Take all of this information as just a guide and your own r&d as who knows, some of the things may even be considered dangerous! I do welcome feedback and questions though! Prerequisites and Warnings; If you can’t understand how to read, interpret and follow a proper Nissan wiring diagram I’d advise you not to attempt. You must be competent with a soldering iron and or crimping connections If you don’t know how to use all the functions of a standard multimeter do not attempt at all You will have to modify the clock spring, which houses the airbag wiring. This is a large risk that can result in airbag deployment if completed incorrectly then there is the obvious risk of fire/short circuit if any electrical connections are incorrect or poorly terminated etc/not fused i will not be wasting time showing you how to take your interior apart. if you cant workout how to remove your steering wheel/speedo cluster etc you probably dont have the ability to install cruise control into your stagea. Step 1 Wiring diagrams; The wiring greatly differs between automatic and manual vehicles, with the latter being far more simple as transmission control is not needed. It is probably possible with autos but I have not investigated if the transmission control systems share commonalities. I have included both so you can see the differences. Manual transmission Automatic transmission This series of diagrams --cruise control wiring diagram.pdf-- are the in depth wiring diagrams showing all factory pinouts, wire colours etc. they are just what a proper wiring diagrams are. within these diagrams there are various notes such as this one-- what i did was print out the full diagram and white out any unnecessary automatic parts of the diagram to simplify it. i also suggest taking note in this document ---how to read wiring diagrams.pdf---on how to properly read these wiring diagrams and most importantly for pinouts, understanding if a pinout is shown from terminal side or harness side. Step 2: What you will need A32 nissan maxima parts ascd control unit vacuum motor vacuum cable actuator ascd clutch switch ascd brake switch (looks the same as clutch switch, just take both switches on the brake pedal bracket and the clutch switch) ascd steering wheel switch ascd hold relay ascd main switch (can get a usdm d21 pathfinder switch i believe if you want the writing on it to be correct and not horizontal) note: cut off everything with any plugs etc included and give yourself as much loom behind it as possible (atleast 100mm or so), take all bolts/fasteners too take the clock spring and all the wiring inside the steering wheel becuase it comes in handy if you want to incorporate a dash light that says "cruise" take the maxima cluster and connectors too stagea parts you will need a steering wheel that has the large D shape side airbag bolt covers with brackets housed inside. i think series 1 wheels are like this but im not sure what models come like this. all i know is my rs4s wheel is smaller and doesnt have provisions for any audio control (left side) or cruise control (right side). second photo shows said bracket the throttle with second wheel bit (think this came on most autos but again not sure) parts you can get from any car the longest fattest section of wiring loom you can extract from a car (you could go try and find all the colours in maxima wiring diagrams, but i just used what i had and spliced the colours i had in between the maxima terminated ends. consumables and tools 6m of 7 or so mm split loom a heap of double wall heatshrink of assorted sizes electrical tape thats decent your usual pliers,flush cutters, crimping pliers, wire strippers solder and soldering iron pin removal tool and afew of them in different styles the most dangerous tool in the shop (stanley knife.utility knife) t50 torx socket t40 torx socket 17mm socket 10mm socket but seriously does anyone have any of these? phillips head screwdriver and tiny flatheads etc parrot clip leads for your multimeter (the spring loaded clamp ones that allow you to lock onto wires/pins) Step 3: modification (guess you could say fabrication) in this step il be showing you how i (poorly) mounted the ascd vacuum pump, actuator, modified the clock spring, modified the ascd controller case and modified the brake pedal. Clock spring the stock clock spring in my s2 rs4s type b has 3 wires in stock form, (steering wheel side) brown (batt12+), blue and yellow (airbag) The connector on the steering column side of the clock spring had 7 male pins as shown in this photo, (ignore the pen markings) so that got me thinking, if there is a 7 pin input to the ribbon cable there must be a way to add 4 more wires to the steering wheel side. see 7 copper pins through clear window in clock spring. i then peeled the sticker on the face back to reveal the clip that secures the steering wheel wires of the clock spring. to remove this cover the two plastic pins that appear quite butchered in the picture below (top and bottom) need to be cut down with a utility knife as they are melted down larger than the id of the covers holes to ensure if the two centre clips fail there is no chance the cover can come off. they need to be cut down so the "od" of the centre squashed pins are smaller than the "id" of the cover holes as shown in the picture. once the plastic "pins"were modified and free, the centre clip needs to be squashed together releasing the cover. the next picture shows the connection of steering wheel wires to the clock spring copper with cover removed (stock rs4s type b). you would probably find a tiptronic series 2 clock spring has 2 wires you could use for cruise control which means you may not have to perform these modifications. thats just a guess though, and i choose modifying my own over sourcing one to find out if thats the case. next, i cut the connector off the maxima clock spring show in picture below to add to the stagea clock spring. i removed these pins from the maxima connector with a custom pin removal tool that is inserted into the front and the plastic tabs were lifted up, releasing the pins out the back. the wires were then pushed through the stagea wire black sheath shown in picture below and roughly bent to where they would be soldered. (top 3 blue yellow green wires) i then realised there would be a spare pin available so i pushed a blue/orange wire through the airbag black sheath for any future use i think of. the wires insulation were then stripped about 4mm or so, and all were soldered onto the copper pads. (see blue/orange wire second from right). only 2 wires are needed for cruise control out of the 4 that i added total, but i happened to have the opportunity to buy a rare factory option steering wheel audio controller and knew this would require one additional wire, and planned to use that final blue/orange wire in some sort of a scramble high boost mode button configuration on the wheel, hence using all 4 wires. Important soldering tip: pre tin your wires and pre tin the pads. DO NOT put excessive heat into the copper pads at any time. this will melt the delicate ribbon connector attached to the other side ruining the clock spring for good. i did one at a time quickly (tinning helps this) allowing the copper to completely cool between wires. the base of the wires were then secured to the plastic with a small amount of 2 part epoxy. i then pushed the three pins (blue green yellow) into the stagea black connector with the brown wire (horn batt12v+) and there the blue orange wire is loose coming from the airbag connector wire sheath. i then checked continuity between steering wheel pins and rear of clock spring pins and ensured there were no shorts between wires, especially the airbag pins! once i new the modifications were successful, the wire cover was put back on. some material needed to be shaved off the inside to allow more room for the 4 extra wires. once it clipped into place with the centre clip, i used the soldering iron to slightly melt the plastic "pins" ensuring it would never come off, slightly similar to how it was secured from factory. thats it clock spring done! ascd vacuum pump and actuator All i did was mount the pump to the same bracket i had my catch can on in the back passenger side of the engine bay, and made a shitty bracket out of some steel and aluminium that i had lying around to mount the vacuum cable actuator to. this actuator is on the drivers side rear of the bay. im sure far more elegant nice mounts can be made up it works for me haha. ascd controller case (mounting) i mounted the ascd controller behind the drivers side kick panel on the relay bracket. first thing i did was remove one half of the ascd controllers case by bending out the pressed metal around it. once removed the outer metal case, i drilled out the 4 spot welds without going all the way through, removing the factory bracket. i then wire wheeled both the case and relay mount bracket and soldered the 2 together. the case was then put back together and edges bent back to secure it. the photo below shows the final product once completed. brake pedal in my rs4s there was only one weld in nut/captive nut whatever you call it on the brake pedal bracket for the stock brake switch. there is a second hold there but no weld in nut. there is also only one contact for the brake switch and no second one at all. for from my limited research i believe all autos come with both weld in nuts and both contacts ready to go (no modification necessary) (photo below shows view from behind with welded nut, contact and second hole with no nut) to modify; step 1 crack a bleed nipple on a calliper with a clear vinyl tube over it going up to a reservoir/drink bottle or something to collect brake fluid. this is necessary because you need to be able to push the pedal to the floor. step 2: push down pedal with your elbow or whatever and attempt to pry out that little rubber contact you can see in photo above. step 3: get yourself a bolt and nut ( i used a 16mm long m8 high tensile bolt and nut) and steel plate step 4: put bolt through steel plate (if the plate is less than 2mm thick you wont need to grind down bolt head) and push pedal down and put bolt through the hole where the rubber contact previously was and put nut on the back. align plate with the hole where the second brake switch will go and tighten nut and bolt with pedal pressed down.(first pic is side view showing bolt-2X1mm plate-pedal-nut) step 5: this step will make you want to give up. if you finish this you can finish the whole install. you will need a mate with a broom stick or some sort of long pokey device to push the pedal down while your upside down in the footwell. get the stock brake switch and a second nut in hand. get your friend to push the pedal down to the floor and get up in there and put the brake switch through the hole and try and thread the nut back onto the switch from behind. you will now have 2 nuts on the switch clamping it to the bracket. do not tighten down yet. step 6: adjust brake switch back and fourth, with your friend pushing pedal in when necessary, with both nuts so you achieve around 0-0.8mm gap between the switch housing and the contact. to see this you will need to get a phone camera up in there or something. step 5 and 6 definitely are the most difficult, curse inducing, hatred building, case of beer break worthy aspects of the whole cruise control install. step 7: put the brake interrupt switch in and adjust so there is 0-0.8mm of gap between the switch housing and the contact (now the bolt head) see photo below brake switch modifications complete! see photo below for photo Step 4: The wiring So you should have gathered a heap of body loom or wires of different colours from a wrecker/parts car already. ideally you want to use the same colour as the diagram but as long as you record what colours you use etc you should be fine. il tackle this section in the same way i did in mine, one page of the wiring diagram at a time. i will often refer to "running pin so and so to a given location" and in virtually all circumstances out of the car this wire run was a 1.5m or so extended length i had soldered in the colour i chose to the nissan maxima plug if that makes sense. where possible to simplify wire routing i grouped as many as i could in the one run of split loom and when i new i would have afew wires going to the same location i used a drill to for twisted pairs or a larger twisted loom. i ran 3 main "runs" of split loom, one to the main switch, one to the clock spring and any brake switches and a third into the engine bay for the ascd vacuum pump. i suggest soldering extended lengths of wire for all "runs" to the plugs/pins you will add such as brake switches, clock spring connector etc, then running these wires through split loom so they all end up at the ascd controller area and final soldering is consolidated to one location after all other connections are finished. Page 1 of wiring diagram (EL-145 main switch) and page 5 of wiring diagram (el-149)/ "run 1" of split loom so this page for the manual transmission diagram only has just the main switch wiring and ascd hold relay. first wire: pin 1 of the ascd main switch. this is ign power and it is the same source as the ign power for the ascd hold relay. what i did is i found luckily in my scrap wiring loom, a pin that is the same as the pins on the interior fuse panel connector. i chose to do this as factory as possible so i pulled out the fuse panel, bridged the ign relay and traced out 10A fuse that isnt used with the continuity function and found the ign output pin for this fuse. the first photo shows that bottom row, 3 from left (white out indicator) pin will give you 12v+ ign through the red fuse in photo 2 with the white out on it (bottom row 2 from far left) to add the female pin to the harness side connector i sourced the same pin out of the scrap loom i had which looks like the photo below. according to the wiring diagram this wire runs to the main switch (which goes rhs of steering wheel next to fog light switch in speedo cluster surround) and also the ascd main switch (mounted on the ascd controller relay bracket) so i ran the wire off the pin back down the loom towards the mass of wires inside the upper part of kick panel (as a sub loom) then, as i earlier spliced a second wire into the long length (made a y split), i ran one side down to where the ascd relay mounts and one forward out the dash where the ascd switch goes. just incase your connector falls apart like mine did (dont fully take out the inner pin securing backing plastic on connector, i learnt the hard way) here is the wire colours and placement on the connector. the pink/blue wire is the pin i added that connects to third from left as referred to before and the fuse. now pin 4 and 6 of the main switch are both just grounds (pin 6 shows it goes to el-ill or the speedo cluster but upon further investigation its just a ground). i soldered pin 4 wire to pin 6 wire 100mm or so down from the connector and then ran the ground wire right down to where the ascd relay is (same run as the 12v ign+ pin 1 wire). pin 2 and 3 wires were ran down to where the ascd relay is and pin 5 wire was ran 150mm or so down the run of wires then came out of the loom as it were to go to the speedo cluster. now page 5 (el-149) shows pin 7 (speed sensor) and pin 13 (cruise lamp indicator) both go to the combination metre (speedo cluster) so i ran these lengths of wire up the same split loom as the ascd main switch wires, and had them come out in the same spot as the pin 5 of the switch to form a sub loom that heads towards the cluster. (photo below shows 3 speedo sub loom wires before i moved them 150mm down the loom for neater routing. a thicker gauge ground wire with ring terminal crimped and soldered to the end is then thread up "run 1" from the ascd relay area up to where the "Y" is that goes off in the sub loom to the fuse panel connector. this ring terminal is bolted to the common ground thats really obvious just above the large opening in the kick panel metal. pin 2 of the ascd hold relay is crimped and soldered with the ground (pin 4 of the ascd main switch), and pin 3 of the ascd controller to the other end of the thicker ground (down at the ascd relay to form one large common ground for everything. so this "run 1" loom, from ascd main switch to ascd hold relay/ascd controller" has all 6 wires from the switch, a ground and the ign 12v+ fuse panel wire thats splits off in the middle , then 3 split off to the speedo (pin 7 of controller speed sensor, pin 13 of controller cruise lamp, and pin 5 of the main switch the illumination). Page 1 (EL-145),2 (EL-146),3 (EL-147) or "Run 2" of split loom this will be split into 2 sections, brake switch interrupts and clock spring connector. all wires in this section run down the same loom Brake switches so following on from the first section or "run 1" of loom, pin 2 of the ascd main switch on diagram EL-145 when you simplify it, ties into pin 3 of the ascd hold relay, pin 4 of the ascd controller and also then goes off to pin 1 of the ascd clutch switch. what i did here is i connected all 4 wires together in one location down where the ascd hold relay/ascd controller is. the photo below shows run 1 coming in and hidden under heatshrink and tape this 4 way junction takes place and the green/black wire thats visible is now going off in run 2 towards the clutch switch. also in "run 2" a length of wire is ran from the ascd controller area to the brake switch area to connect to pin 5 of the controller and pin 2 of the brake switch. another run of wire is ran from the ascd controller area to the brake switch area through "run 2" split loom to connect to pin 11 of the ascd controller and splice into the factory brake pedal pin 1 (this is the stop lamp switch, sends +12v to the ascd controller when pressed like your brake light) thats it for the brake switch part. will continue the next sections in more comments as this is way too long for poor old sau and its lagging heavily (probably my crappy late 2011 macbook pro)
  11. Hi ther, i have a problem that came after i changed my baulbes in my AC, replaced them with LED's and my cluster started messing up, Fule and Engien heat is always on max, spedo don't work, and RPM bounces on 500-1000rpm on idel and under full pupp it only goes up to 3000rpm, and the KM on the car reads 999999. Changed back to my normal baulbes and cheked the wiers to chek if ther was any faulty wiers behind the AC unit but coudent finde anything, changed back to my old Baulbes and it stil dosent work. I alsow blew the fuse for "Tail L" wile replacing the baulbes and have replaced the fuse. So, what can be the problem? Can i have messed up the cluster and blew a resistor? is ther a relay that have exploded? I have had the AC unit and CD player out 6-7 times and tried to turn the key on and off, and sometimes it works like it shoud somtiems it just a bit faulty shoing way to hige RPM and the wrong KM (shows about 116k the car has traveld 160k) Sorry if the post is messy, im not always that good at explaning things
  12. In Perth WA, Seeking both passangers and drivers front doors for a white S2 stagea. Must have no or very little rust. White colour preferred, but will accept other colours if in good condition.
  13. This car represents amazing value at $12,990. 2003 Nissan Stagea AXIS AUTECH, 2.5ltr V6 TURBO, tip tronic 5sp auto, All Wheel Drive (AWD), All Autech options. Engine Details in tabs at bottom are in-correct. - Engine - VQ25DET - Power - 209kW @ 6400rpm - Torque - 407Nm @ 3200rpm Complete Trasmission service with genuine nissan products - 21/02/2014 - Mechanic stated AT was in excellent condition. - New pads front and rear. - New front rotors. I have really enjoyed driving this car however it is now time to sell as I am moving overseas. This Nissan Stagea has a full service history available. Check out this well maintained car, always garaged and looked after meticulously. Genuine 120,00kms with the car having been in Australia over 2 years. Registration has been paid until January 2015. - The previous owner/importer of this vehicle had all the leather re-trimmed in a high quality off-white/ tan coloured leather which looks amazing compared to the factory trim. - GPS fixed to work in Australia along with translation of the computers menu from Japanese to English. - Reverse camera installed. - HKS coilovers fitted - Guards rolled. - Fibreglass reverse light covers (pictured) Regularly serviced, well looked after and will be extremely missed. (Swaps Considered - FD RX7, Type X 180SX, CBR600RR) PICTURES - http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Stagea-2003/SSE-AD-2583092
  14. OK kids, the images tell the story, some threads missing, drivers mat worn as expected. Rubber backed, thick pile, cigarette burn in the small one. seems someone has cut the drivers one to fit a manual but has stitched the edge back well. Definitely not perfect. Feel free to request more images, inspections welcome Mascot, NSW 0401 454406 or PM $100 + Postage - be warned they are heavy and large so postage could be hexi.
  15. Hi all, I am desperately searching for a rear seat for my 2001 Stagea. Please see photo for the design on the fabric in the middle
  16. Hi all just picked up my first stagea over the moon with it and love everything about it just after some info about anyone who has had to take a c34 to get a rwc Also tried to hunt my vin down to track some heritage but come up short any help would be awesome I’m told it’s a dayz edition 1999 series 2 and has many factory extras and cool stuff thanks
  17. Anyone out there know where I can purchase a compliant towbar for my missus C34 S2 Stagea RS? We've had the car for nearly ten years and I'm sick of her whining. Lol. Needs to be rated at least 1200kg.
  18. Hello helpful people of SAU, Does anyone know the correct torque for the lug nuts on the M35? The wheels on it are aftermarket 18”, not sure if that makes any difference? Sorry for the noob question just about to set out on a long road trip in the stag and after losing a wheel on the last road trip I wanna be sure everything is perfect this time (provided no one tries to steal the wheels this time around haha). Any help/pre road trip tips would be greatly appreciated,
  19. Up for sale is my 1997 Nissan Stagea AWD TURBO RB25DET series 1 with series 2 lights all round 151,000kms always serviced has been my daily driver for the past years never let me down great car goes well, leather climate control bluetooth stereo central locking/keyless entry with immobilizer it is a pleasure to drive and just dose what you want and everything just works negotiable on price within reason. please don't hesitate contact me with any questions or to arrange to view please contact me on 0450051813 thankyou
  20. Hey Guys I need some r33 gtr (maybe gtst, maybe stagea too) strut tops (the bit that holds the springs on and bolts into the car) In qld but will be driving Gold Coast to Melbourne in a week so i can pickup along the way if need be Let me know what you have
  21. [SYD] WTB M35 boot struts I'm chasing a pair of boot struts for a M35. Mine are weak and don't hold the boot up. Happy to regas them or go aftermarket if there is ones that fit in. Just after a cheap solution!
  22. M35 VQ25det Impul ECU Impul ecu for M35. Rarely pop up for sale and correct for the vq25det. Picks up power everywhere in the rev range. Much better throttle control and response, meaty mid range and a good top end increase. Great upgrade. $950
  23. Hi Guys I've just bought a 2005 Stagea, and was wondering if any of you had come across a manual for it in english? I've got a couple of things I would like to get sorted, but can't really find too much information on it(Information that I can read anyway...) Specifically: LCD screen pops up, and goes straight back down(doesn't turn on) Power cable in the centre console, no idea what it is for In car phone system? Appears to be on the steering wheel, but nothing happens other than a "beep". Phone can't find the car either Replacing the stereo, I've seen adapters for the face plate, but can't seem to find a wiring diagram so I can keep the steering wheel controls(seen the adapters on amazon though) Dvd rom for the LCD? A way to get it all working again?(Providing the english conversion is out for the 2005 model now)(DVD has power to it, but that is all I can see/hear at the moment) Off/Snow/On button below the steering wheel, this car is only RWD, so I'm not sure what it's for?(I thought it was for the 4WD models) Other than those things, the car is great(perfect for towing the jetski) I hope I haven't broken any unwritten rules with this post, I'm not meaning to ask for you to do all the work, just to point me in the right direction Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Chris
  24. WTB - r34gtt / Stagea Neo rb25det CAS After one in/near Brisbane or I will pay for postage.
  25. Hi all, I love my forester but need something auto. Have always wanted a C34 Stagea so if anyone is keen on a swap/swap + cash or just a straight sale on my forester let me know. Has 280k on the clock, she doesn't burn any oil, previous owner was a engineer who really looked after it and the owners prior we just a family in the country, hence the highish kms, but 99% of forester now around 250k anyway. Head gaskets have been replaced Oct last year. Mods: WRX TD04 turbo running 11-12psi Wrx intercooler Upgraded Walbro fuel pump Front strut brace XYZ Coilovers - basically brand new XT wheels with new Pirelli's XT leather front seats XT brake upgrade WRX mid pipe New superpro diff and rack bushes Basically all coolant hoses have been replaced Straight sale $5000. Has reg till Feb 2018.
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