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Found 398 results

  1. 2001 M35 stagea for sale 240,000kms Cusco coilovers 20" koyo rims Cat back Rolled rear fenders Ive owned this for 7 years during this time has been bulletproof ( except starter motor and battery but both have been replaced ) around 7 months rego left Has some chips in paint, cracked windscreen, crack in tail light, leaking some oil, $5,000 ono 0403506415 (dont have my phone at work so just sms me) Se melbourne
  2. The dream is dead. I wanted to do so much with this car, but we're moving to a single income soon, and need something more family friendly, and less harsh on the hip pocket. Things to be aware of: Located in Northern suburbs of Victoria. Everything is pretty stock standard, apart from the radio, which is bluetooth and aux compatible. Recently replaced crank angle sensors, and have a spare in the back too. I know it needs rear pads and rotors, but otherwise mechanically sound, will have had a minor service by the time you inquire. Has done 201,000 k's. A bit of paint fading on the right hand mirror shell. Rego expires in February. Asking price is $7,500 but feel free to make me an offer (nothing ridiculous, please) Feel free to ask me anything about the car, and I'll do my best to answer. Also, sorry for crap photos, too many cars to move around, and it was too damn hot that day.
  3. Hi, i bought a Stagea and found out that gtr-registry.com calls my Stagea series 1.5 instead of series 1. i don't really know and cant find what that means tho, anyone know? does that mean that i could possibly have a ecu that can be fit with nistune? Other than that i read in the thread for buyers that Stagea got keyless entry, i don't even have a key fob, just a regular old key without any buttons or anything. thanks for answers
  4. I'm having a problem with a constant misfire at around 1700-2800rpm. Tried and Swapped; Unplugging tps Cas swap Plug gap 0.6 - 0.8 - 1.0 Swapping coilpacks with others fuel filter fuel pump injectors I've attached a log file and a video. I have zero idea where to go from here... This problem is only evident on idle and at constant throttle around the 1-5% throttle. 4-11-2017_1915idlefluctuations.csv Video.MOV
  5. selling a pair of genuine Nissan ball joint shims. Test fitted to some new ball joints, but ended up not being used. These are for the larger 16mm bolt ball joints, which I believe are for the larger RWD model ball joints only. Price: $10 Located 2203
  6. Hi all, So basically my Series 1 C34 stag was stolen and I was lucky enough to get it back! When I got it back I noticed my Xanavi system won't turn on at all BUT my climate control is working and seems to be permanently stuck on auto (my xanavi system houses my climate control so there's no way to turn it off without getting the xanavi to turn on). Before I go spend some cash on an auto elec to diagnose/ fix, just wondering if anyone's had this issue before or would have an idea of what my problem could be so I could have a more educated look myself? Would the thief unplug something when stealing the car? unlucky timing with fuses? Extra info; Cigarette/ 12v power still works my gearshift lights (P R N D 2 1) turn on from time to time but very occasional - worked perfectly before the light for my "power/ snow" switch still works when in power mode when I got it back my centre console was popped open (assuming it was done when stealing) Any help would be appreciated, Cheers, Nick.
  7. Alrighty guys so this guide/ build log/ r&d will outline how i installed the entire cruise control system from an a32 nissan maxima into my 2000 wgnc34 nissan stagea rsfours type b. So firstly I’ll just state I am just a 19 year old who has absolutely no qualifications, just an interest in electronics and car audio with, in the big scheme of things, not much experience at all. Take all of this information as just a guide and your own r&d as who knows, some of the things may even be considered dangerous! I do welcome feedback and questions though! Prerequisites and Warnings; If you can’t understand how to read, interpret and follow a proper Nissan wiring diagram I’d advise you not to attempt. You must be competent with a soldering iron and or crimping connections If you don’t know how to use all the functions of a standard multimeter do not attempt at all You will have to modify the clock spring, which houses the airbag wiring. This is a large risk that can result in airbag deployment if completed incorrectly then there is the obvious risk of fire/short circuit if any electrical connections are incorrect or poorly terminated etc/not fused i will not be wasting time showing you how to take your interior apart. if you cant workout how to remove your steering wheel/speedo cluster etc you probably dont have the ability to install cruise control into your stagea. Step 1 Wiring diagrams; The wiring greatly differs between automatic and manual vehicles, with the latter being far more simple as transmission control is not needed. It is probably possible with autos but I have not investigated if the transmission control systems share commonalities. I have included both so you can see the differences. Manual transmission Automatic transmission This series of diagrams --cruise control wiring diagram.pdf-- are the in depth wiring diagrams showing all factory pinouts, wire colours etc. they are just what a proper wiring diagrams are. within these diagrams there are various notes such as this one-- what i did was print out the full diagram and white out any unnecessary automatic parts of the diagram to simplify it. i also suggest taking note in this document ---how to read wiring diagrams.pdf---on how to properly read these wiring diagrams and most importantly for pinouts, understanding if a pinout is shown from terminal side or harness side. Step 2: What you will need A32 nissan maxima parts ascd control unit vacuum motor vacuum cable actuator ascd clutch switch ascd brake switch (looks the same as clutch switch, just take both switches on the brake pedal bracket and the clutch switch) ascd steering wheel switch ascd hold relay ascd main switch (can get a usdm d21 pathfinder switch i believe if you want the writing on it to be correct and not horizontal) note: cut off everything with any plugs etc included and give yourself as much loom behind it as possible (atleast 100mm or so), take all bolts/fasteners too take the clock spring and all the wiring inside the steering wheel becuase it comes in handy if you want to incorporate a dash light that says "cruise" take the maxima cluster and connectors too stagea parts you will need a steering wheel that has the large D shape side airbag bolt covers with brackets housed inside. i think series 1 wheels are like this but im not sure what models come like this. all i know is my rs4s wheel is smaller and doesnt have provisions for any audio control (left side) or cruise control (right side). second photo shows said bracket the throttle with second wheel bit (think this came on most autos but again not sure) parts you can get from any car the longest fattest section of wiring loom you can extract from a car (you could go try and find all the colours in maxima wiring diagrams, but i just used what i had and spliced the colours i had in between the maxima terminated ends. consumables and tools 6m of 7 or so mm split loom a heap of double wall heatshrink of assorted sizes electrical tape thats decent your usual pliers,flush cutters, crimping pliers, wire strippers solder and soldering iron pin removal tool and afew of them in different styles the most dangerous tool in the shop (stanley knife.utility knife) t50 torx socket t40 torx socket 17mm socket 10mm socket but seriously does anyone have any of these? phillips head screwdriver and tiny flatheads etc parrot clip leads for your multimeter (the spring loaded clamp ones that allow you to lock onto wires/pins) Step 3: modification (guess you could say fabrication) in this step il be showing you how i (poorly) mounted the ascd vacuum pump, actuator, modified the clock spring, modified the ascd controller case and modified the brake pedal. Clock spring the stock clock spring in my s2 rs4s type b has 3 wires in stock form, (steering wheel side) brown (batt12+), blue and yellow (airbag) The connector on the steering column side of the clock spring had 7 male pins as shown in this photo, (ignore the pen markings) so that got me thinking, if there is a 7 pin input to the ribbon cable there must be a way to add 4 more wires to the steering wheel side. see 7 copper pins through clear window in clock spring. i then peeled the sticker on the face back to reveal the clip that secures the steering wheel wires of the clock spring. to remove this cover the two plastic pins that appear quite butchered in the picture below (top and bottom) need to be cut down with a utility knife as they are melted down larger than the id of the covers holes to ensure if the two centre clips fail there is no chance the cover can come off. they need to be cut down so the "od" of the centre squashed pins are smaller than the "id" of the cover holes as shown in the picture. once the plastic "pins"were modified and free, the centre clip needs to be squashed together releasing the cover. the next picture shows the connection of steering wheel wires to the clock spring copper with cover removed (stock rs4s type b). you would probably find a tiptronic series 2 clock spring has 2 wires you could use for cruise control which means you may not have to perform these modifications. thats just a guess though, and i choose modifying my own over sourcing one to find out if thats the case. next, i cut the connector off the maxima clock spring show in picture below to add to the stagea clock spring. i removed these pins from the maxima connector with a custom pin removal tool that is inserted into the front and the plastic tabs were lifted up, releasing the pins out the back. the wires were then pushed through the stagea wire black sheath shown in picture below and roughly bent to where they would be soldered. (top 3 blue yellow green wires) i then realised there would be a spare pin available so i pushed a blue/orange wire through the airbag black sheath for any future use i think of. the wires insulation were then stripped about 4mm or so, and all were soldered onto the copper pads. (see blue/orange wire second from right). only 2 wires are needed for cruise control out of the 4 that i added total, but i happened to have the opportunity to buy a rare factory option steering wheel audio controller and knew this would require one additional wire, and planned to use that final blue/orange wire in some sort of a scramble high boost mode button configuration on the wheel, hence using all 4 wires. Important soldering tip: pre tin your wires and pre tin the pads. DO NOT put excessive heat into the copper pads at any time. this will melt the delicate ribbon connector attached to the other side ruining the clock spring for good. i did one at a time quickly (tinning helps this) allowing the copper to completely cool between wires. the base of the wires were then secured to the plastic with a small amount of 2 part epoxy. i then pushed the three pins (blue green yellow) into the stagea black connector with the brown wire (horn batt12v+) and there the blue orange wire is loose coming from the airbag connector wire sheath. i then checked continuity between steering wheel pins and rear of clock spring pins and ensured there were no shorts between wires, especially the airbag pins! once i new the modifications were successful, the wire cover was put back on. some material needed to be shaved off the inside to allow more room for the 4 extra wires. once it clipped into place with the centre clip, i used the soldering iron to slightly melt the plastic "pins" ensuring it would never come off, slightly similar to how it was secured from factory. thats it clock spring done! ascd vacuum pump and actuator All i did was mount the pump to the same bracket i had my catch can on in the back passenger side of the engine bay, and made a shitty bracket out of some steel and aluminium that i had lying around to mount the vacuum cable actuator to. this actuator is on the drivers side rear of the bay. im sure far more elegant nice mounts can be made up it works for me haha. ascd controller case (mounting) i mounted the ascd controller behind the drivers side kick panel on the relay bracket. first thing i did was remove one half of the ascd controllers case by bending out the pressed metal around it. once removed the outer metal case, i drilled out the 4 spot welds without going all the way through, removing the factory bracket. i then wire wheeled both the case and relay mount bracket and soldered the 2 together. the case was then put back together and edges bent back to secure it. the photo below shows the final product once completed. brake pedal in my rs4s there was only one weld in nut/captive nut whatever you call it on the brake pedal bracket for the stock brake switch. there is a second hold there but no weld in nut. there is also only one contact for the brake switch and no second one at all. for from my limited research i believe all autos come with both weld in nuts and both contacts ready to go (no modification necessary) (photo below shows view from behind with welded nut, contact and second hole with no nut) to modify; step 1 crack a bleed nipple on a calliper with a clear vinyl tube over it going up to a reservoir/drink bottle or something to collect brake fluid. this is necessary because you need to be able to push the pedal to the floor. step 2: push down pedal with your elbow or whatever and attempt to pry out that little rubber contact you can see in photo above. step 3: get yourself a bolt and nut ( i used a 16mm long m8 high tensile bolt and nut) and steel plate step 4: put bolt through steel plate (if the plate is less than 2mm thick you wont need to grind down bolt head) and push pedal down and put bolt through the hole where the rubber contact previously was and put nut on the back. align plate with the hole where the second brake switch will go and tighten nut and bolt with pedal pressed down.(first pic is side view showing bolt-2X1mm plate-pedal-nut) step 5: this step will make you want to give up. if you finish this you can finish the whole install. you will need a mate with a broom stick or some sort of long pokey device to push the pedal down while your upside down in the footwell. get the stock brake switch and a second nut in hand. get your friend to push the pedal down to the floor and get up in there and put the brake switch through the hole and try and thread the nut back onto the switch from behind. you will now have 2 nuts on the switch clamping it to the bracket. do not tighten down yet. step 6: adjust brake switch back and fourth, with your friend pushing pedal in when necessary, with both nuts so you achieve around 0-0.8mm gap between the switch housing and the contact. to see this you will need to get a phone camera up in there or something. step 5 and 6 definitely are the most difficult, curse inducing, hatred building, case of beer break worthy aspects of the whole cruise control install. step 7: put the brake interrupt switch in and adjust so there is 0-0.8mm of gap between the switch housing and the contact (now the bolt head) see photo below brake switch modifications complete! see photo below for photo Step 4: The wiring So you should have gathered a heap of body loom or wires of different colours from a wrecker/parts car already. ideally you want to use the same colour as the diagram but as long as you record what colours you use etc you should be fine. il tackle this section in the same way i did in mine, one page of the wiring diagram at a time. i will often refer to "running pin so and so to a given location" and in virtually all circumstances out of the car this wire run was a 1.5m or so extended length i had soldered in the colour i chose to the nissan maxima plug if that makes sense. where possible to simplify wire routing i grouped as many as i could in the one run of split loom and when i new i would have afew wires going to the same location i used a drill to for twisted pairs or a larger twisted loom. i ran 3 main "runs" of split loom, one to the main switch, one to the clock spring and any brake switches and a third into the engine bay for the ascd vacuum pump. i suggest soldering extended lengths of wire for all "runs" to the plugs/pins you will add such as brake switches, clock spring connector etc, then running these wires through split loom so they all end up at the ascd controller area and final soldering is consolidated to one location after all other connections are finished. Page 1 of wiring diagram (EL-145 main switch) and page 5 of wiring diagram (el-149)/ "run 1" of split loom so this page for the manual transmission diagram only has just the main switch wiring and ascd hold relay. first wire: pin 1 of the ascd main switch. this is ign power and it is the same source as the ign power for the ascd hold relay. what i did is i found luckily in my scrap wiring loom, a pin that is the same as the pins on the interior fuse panel connector. i chose to do this as factory as possible so i pulled out the fuse panel, bridged the ign relay and traced out 10A fuse that isnt used with the continuity function and found the ign output pin for this fuse. the first photo shows that bottom row, 3 from left (white out indicator) pin will give you 12v+ ign through the red fuse in photo 2 with the white out on it (bottom row 2 from far left) to add the female pin to the harness side connector i sourced the same pin out of the scrap loom i had which looks like the photo below. according to the wiring diagram this wire runs to the main switch (which goes rhs of steering wheel next to fog light switch in speedo cluster surround) and also the ascd main switch (mounted on the ascd controller relay bracket) so i ran the wire off the pin back down the loom towards the mass of wires inside the upper part of kick panel (as a sub loom) then, as i earlier spliced a second wire into the long length (made a y split), i ran one side down to where the ascd relay mounts and one forward out the dash where the ascd switch goes. just incase your connector falls apart like mine did (dont fully take out the inner pin securing backing plastic on connector, i learnt the hard way) here is the wire colours and placement on the connector. the pink/blue wire is the pin i added that connects to third from left as referred to before and the fuse. now pin 4 and 6 of the main switch are both just grounds (pin 6 shows it goes to el-ill or the speedo cluster but upon further investigation its just a ground). i soldered pin 4 wire to pin 6 wire 100mm or so down from the connector and then ran the ground wire right down to where the ascd relay is (same run as the 12v ign+ pin 1 wire). pin 2 and 3 wires were ran down to where the ascd relay is and pin 5 wire was ran 150mm or so down the run of wires then came out of the loom as it were to go to the speedo cluster. now page 5 (el-149) shows pin 7 (speed sensor) and pin 13 (cruise lamp indicator) both go to the combination metre (speedo cluster) so i ran these lengths of wire up the same split loom as the ascd main switch wires, and had them come out in the same spot as the pin 5 of the switch to form a sub loom that heads towards the cluster. (photo below shows 3 speedo sub loom wires before i moved them 150mm down the loom for neater routing. a thicker gauge ground wire with ring terminal crimped and soldered to the end is then thread up "run 1" from the ascd relay area up to where the "Y" is that goes off in the sub loom to the fuse panel connector. this ring terminal is bolted to the common ground thats really obvious just above the large opening in the kick panel metal. pin 2 of the ascd hold relay is crimped and soldered with the ground (pin 4 of the ascd main switch), and pin 3 of the ascd controller to the other end of the thicker ground (down at the ascd relay to form one large common ground for everything. so this "run 1" loom, from ascd main switch to ascd hold relay/ascd controller" has all 6 wires from the switch, a ground and the ign 12v+ fuse panel wire thats splits off in the middle , then 3 split off to the speedo (pin 7 of controller speed sensor, pin 13 of controller cruise lamp, and pin 5 of the main switch the illumination). Page 1 (EL-145),2 (EL-146),3 (EL-147) or "Run 2" of split loom this will be split into 2 sections, brake switch interrupts and clock spring connector. all wires in this section run down the same loom Brake switches so following on from the first section or "run 1" of loom, pin 2 of the ascd main switch on diagram EL-145 when you simplify it, ties into pin 3 of the ascd hold relay, pin 4 of the ascd controller and also then goes off to pin 1 of the ascd clutch switch. what i did here is i connected all 4 wires together in one location down where the ascd hold relay/ascd controller is. the photo below shows run 1 coming in and hidden under heatshrink and tape this 4 way junction takes place and the green/black wire thats visible is now going off in run 2 towards the clutch switch. also in "run 2" a length of wire is ran from the ascd controller area to the brake switch area to connect to pin 5 of the controller and pin 2 of the brake switch. another run of wire is ran from the ascd controller area to the brake switch area through "run 2" split loom to connect to pin 11 of the ascd controller and splice into the factory brake pedal pin 1 (this is the stop lamp switch, sends +12v to the ascd controller when pressed like your brake light) thats it for the brake switch part. will continue the next sections in more comments as this is way too long for poor old sau and its lagging heavily (probably my crappy late 2011 macbook pro)
  8. 2004 Nissan Stagea PM35 350RX VQ35DE RWD, same engine and drive line as locally delivered 350Z so parts and servicing is easy. 140kg lighter than 2.5lL Turbo 4WD models. Facelift model with black heated leather electric seats, near new tyres, factory tinted windows, twin climate control, xenon head lights ,ABS - traction control, tow bar in immaculate condition inside and out, kept in garage. Very good performance, comfort and practicality only selling because I now have a company car. 136000 km $9,000. It will come with a roadworthy certificate. Contact Chris 0430 011 069
  9. Hey guys, I joined the Stagea life back in Februrary (although ive been looking for one since mid last year) and recently came across the Fujima 260rs dolphin models. Although its not quite the same as my Stagea, its the closest ill get as I havent seen any s2 stagea models.... Mine is a s2 RS4-S with a 260rs front bumper, dolphin skirts, and a dolphin rear bumper, and a DAYZ wing. Anyone still have one of these laying around by chance? Ideally one that hasnt been built, but would consider a built one. Would need to be shipped to me over in Canada land! Thanks,
  10. Selling my s2, 2000year stagea .. In very good condition. I'm the first owner in Australia from 2012.. Please contact me on ‭‭+61 413 819 876‬‬ Marko
  11. Assorted parts for sale or swap c34 s2 factory airbox $80 c34 s2 guard liners and under tray $50 c34 s2 seatbelt set $80 R32 GTR front hubs, knuckles and uprights $150 nismo 320km speedo only- blue back $500ono or swap for a brown back one. Lovated in thomastown victoria text 0411421097
  12. Having some dramas, my partner's S1 RS4V lost its brake lights yesterday. High mount, sides and centre all dead. Park/Tail/reverse lights fine. Stuff I've checked: -There's no voltage at the pedal switch -Brake light fuse intact, swapped with spare, no change, measured no voltage at fuse. -Globes fine. I'm tearing my remaining hair out, and I have about 24 hours in which to get it sorted. The ATTESA pump is also priming abnormally long and intermittently chucking the 4WD light. Both things have happened inside a couple of days so I feel there may be a connection.
  13. M35 won't fire Evening, sorry about the long post but I'm trying to give as much info as possible. I have recently acquired a 2001 M35 stagea (VQ25DET), the morning after driving it home it it would turn over but not fire, after 10 minutes of trying it finally fired up but ran like crap. Next few starts it started and ran well. Saturday morning it started and drove fine. Come Saturday afternoon it wound over and over, after 20 minutes of trying it finally started, but ran terribly all the way home. Got it home and shut it off and tried to restart it and it just wouldn't fire. Sunday morning I tried and just keeps winding. I have checked all the fuses, changed all the coils, the plugs, the immobiliser batteries and the CAS and it still won't fire, when turning over it will get the occasional cough but that's it. The cam sensors were changed with the recal but I'm not sure how long ago. The car is running a Greddy Emanage and the MIL light is on all the time (owner said this and after searching it is a common thing with these ECU's) I have tried the self diagnostic thing with the key and the pedal but for the life of me I can't get the MIL to flash, I've used a stop watch to time everything and still can't, no sure if just me or emanage has something to do with it I don't have a scan tool and can't start the car to take it anywhere, does anyone have any ideas or suggestions on why it won't fire?
  14. Is there a difference between MCP-1440 and MCP-1430 Neo Coilpacks? Hi all, I have a set of MCP-1340 coils (which came with the car afaik) and one of them went bad so got a set of MCP-1440 coils and just swapped one of them in so i'm using 5x MCP-1430 and 1x MCP-1440. Now i'm not too sure if theres any difference between the two coilpacks or if I should be using the full set of MCP-1440 coils. Theres pretty much 0 information elsware on this topic either. The MCP-1440 coils came from an R34 RB25DE Neo, and the MCP-1430 came from a RB25DE Neo 4WD Stagea.
  15. NM35 Stagea lower control arms & ball joints+spindles For sale is a set of AWD lower control arms with new Superpro bushes, and full spindles with new ball joints installed. Selling because I mistook them as RWD parts, but they are sadly not. (Don't get me started on my ball joint replacement story!!!) Asking $400 all up, for new bushes and ball joints already pressed in for easy installation. Saves you a lot in labour already! Located 2203.
  16. Need timing info on RB25DE NEO Hi all, I've got a pinging/pre ignition detonation sound, can hear it when cold with the engine under a bit of load. I put the timing light on the car but I used the white loop at the back of the coil harness and didn't disconnect the TPS which you're apparently supposed to do.. so not sure how accurate this timing reading was, i'm not too sure if this is where the timing should be and have serched everywhere and I all get is bloody 25DET stuff, which im unsure if its the same timing as 25DE. Another thing to note is that my CAS is backed almost all the way to one side as shown here (I made the yellow marking) Would just like to know where the timing should be or if its already correct etc Thanks
  17. No air coming through induction 96 stagea Hey guys I don't know if my account is the same as the one I introduced myself on cause I think it logged in through Facebook... anyway wondering if anyone can help shed some light. I don't know much about cars and by much I mean f all really. But my Stagea (96 RS) isn't sucking air through the intake. Upon having a look I see the sensor thing in/on there. It looked fine, I checked the connection and it was clean. I don't even want to drive it to the mechanics cause when i was driving it and it started to happen it didn't feel good and no air is not good. I searched on here and saw about air mass sensor? Is this it? Broken? Thanks and here is a pic of her
  18. Nz stagea owner Hey im jonny just thought ild pop in and say wassup current own 2004 Nissan stagea 350rx 1998 Nissan stagea s2 rs4 manual 1997 Nissan stagea s1 rs4 parts car
  19. I just bought an M35 lower control arm with new bushings to replace my current lower control arm on my PM35. According to Nissan EPC-Data, the M35 and PM35 axel parts are all supposedly exactly the same model numbers. However, attached is the arm I bought and next to that that is the one that I have. (Note the spot where the sway bar link connects to) Is there a reason they are different? Does the one I bought use different sway bar end links? I'm guessing it's from the AWD model
  20. nm35 aftermarket front grill! Aftermarket grill to suit nm35 stagea, Not series 1, maybe series 2 and Autec Axis. I tried on mine series1 and the mounting holes (body clips) line up, the bottom part might need trimming to suit. Pick up Sth East Melb, $150 negotiable.
  21. What CV Joints fit S1 RS Four stagea? Actually bloody fed up with Repco and their shit. Can't sell me the correct brake rotors and now f** king sell me two different cv joints even though they have the same part number!?!? WHAT THE F**** Can someone please inform me on the correct part numbers preferably for Repco, or what else fits?! On a more happier note... pulling the shaft out was easier than most people say and took no time at all.. Thank you.
  22. 2004 Nissan Stagea PM35 350RX VQ35DE RWD, same engine and drive line as locally delivered 350Z so parts and servicing is easy. 140kg lighter than 2.5lL Turbo 4WD models. Facelift model with black heated leather electric seats, near new tyres, factory tinted windows, twin climate control, xenon head lights ,ABS - traction control, tow bar in immaculate condition inside and out, kept in garage. Very good performance, comfort and practicality only selling because I now have a company car. 136000 km $10,000. It will come with a roadworthy certificate and registration has been paid until December 2017. Contact Chris 0430 011 069
  23. WTB coilovers for m35/pm35 Show me what you got! Prefer to go second hand over brand new, if in good condition. Not after a slammed ride, just something to help make it a bit more race car. Located in Sydney
  24. 2000 NISSAN STAGEA RS4S - FACTORY MANUAL - RARE FACTORY DUAL SUNROOF 2000 NISSAN STAGEA RS4S - FACTORY MANUAL - RARE FACTORY DUAL SUNROOF Engine/Running gear etc HKS 3inch catback, highflow cat and 3inch dump Just-jap aloy radiator + Silicone hoses Front mount - Unsure of brand Apexi power intake pod filter, in Just-Jap airbox and silicone intake R34 GTT break conversion, with slotted DBA rotors Cusco coilovers Whiteline sway bars front and rear Rear adjustable camber arms HICAS delete kit Front adjustable castor rods Exterior R34 GTT wheels Freeway Dolphin rear wing Rhino Rack roof racks with air deflector Tinted windows Dual sunroof Interior Electric leather seats Tinted windows Original boot mat, plastic boot liner, Cargo net and parcel blind Nismo Duracon Shift Knob Nismo Floor mats Apexi boost gauge Extras DAYZ Rear bar - Needs to be painted to match the car DAYZ Front bar - Needs a lot of work it has been cut up to remove the number plate and the vertical bars, it also has some damage, but with some plastic welding, some fibreglassing and paint it would look great on the car. Original parts included in sale Factory cloth seats Original dump and compliance cat Original intercooler pipes, etc. Original intake parts airbox, pipes etc. 122000kms on the clock The condition of the car is fairly good for the age, no accident damage. Engine and drivetrain are in great condition Paint is fairly good condition, some parking lot scrapes here and there but overall it is good for its age. Headlights are hazy Interior is clean and has been looked after, leather seats have some slight wear (mainly drivers seat) I’ve owned the car for about 5 years, previous owner was the owner of a performance garage so it has been well looked after and serviced regularly. In the past 5 years I’ve only put around 12,000kms on the clock. Contact Nick on: 0433 288 751 or [email protected] $11,500 ono
  25. Blow turdbo? M35 Hey guys looks like another victim of the dreded vq25det gremlins cars decided to chuck in the CEL which read as cam angle sensor (faulty plug that was retesioned until new plug arrived) car ran fine even with CEL on until one day when i parked it up, car started fine but had VERY min power and absolutely zero boost took to my auto elec and once again cam angle code came up and clearest but still no boost my question is does it sound like turbo if cars done 75,000km regularly serviced stock boost and no sign of mechanical failure while driving (no smoke or breaking sounds) also car still idles really smooth and drives fine minus boost !!! had a quick check over pipes except from turbo and they seem to be all connected HELP IM POOR and really don't want to replace turbo right now !! 😂😂😂