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Found 366 results

  1. Sack87

    Brendons M35 build Thought I'd create a mini build thread on my progress with my first foray into Nissan wagon life and also a place to ask questions/path to follow. I bought the car with f**ked coil packs so I picked it up cheap off some Indian guy. Put a new set of coil packs in and all was sweet for the next 6 months . . . https://imageshack.com/i/pnV0vOWcj https://imageshack.com/i/pltD8QHij https://imageshack.com/i/popQVxMsj I noticed an oil leak from the passenger side that was slowly getting worse and traced it back to the oil feed line. Ah well no biggy, just an easy fix or so I thought! Having not worked on a VQ before, it wasn't until later on I discovered you can't get the line off without pulling the whole turbo Since the car wasn't far off 200k and the turbo had begun the Dyson whine song, I frantically searched for a new turbo. Scotty to the rescue with a Billet Intense he had spare that got to me in 4 days. In the mean time while the car was off the road I set about fabbing up a 3" bellmouth dump pipe. Then followed it up with a 3"-2.5" intake pipe. (Still need to weld on BOV return bung) And this weekend just gone I fabbed up a 3" catless exhaust system to finish it all off. I picked up 7psi of boost without touching a thing, so it's stuck on 21psi with standard injectors and pump. I've hit up Christian to see if it's possible to run the car safely at this level on 98 with his flash tune, otherwise I will probably put a hi-flow cat in to drop the boost a little. I've got a few other things in the works but all in due time!
  2. hi all I have a Series 1 Stagea that had RB25DET auto, motor died, SO ive got a RB25DET neo manual with matching Loom,ECU.(Motor is in car now) I understand that the series 1 fuse box is different and after searching know that ABS, Atessa and AC wont work. Has Someone wired this correctly to fix these issues, am wondering if i just have to re-pin the body plug to suit the series 1 pin out. sorry if newbie question struggling to find info on this. Thanks all.
  3. Selling a set of underbody braces to fit a M35 Stagea. $200 Painted black and attempted to test fit, but quickly r ealised that they don't fit the NA/RWD Stageas... oops! Also selling a pair of resonated test pipes for a VQ35DE. Brand new still in plastic, just decided to go another route. $150 Also-also selling some Lexani tyres that came off my current rims. Tread is at least 75%. $100 Also-also-also selling some 20" rims in another ad I've posted.
  4. Heya! I just got my Nissan Stagea RS Four V today and I'm overly excited about it. Bought it back in November and just got it home today. It's my first JDM car, and Station Wagon. Already I've gotten a lot of looks in it. I hope location isn't a matter, because this is about the only forums I found with anything on the Stagea so here I am.
  5. Hey, I've only just got my Stagea S2 today, and as luck would have it, the driver side headlight bulb exploded. However I'm struggling to figure out what bulb to replace it with. I've seen different answers with the D2R, H1, H1R1, H4, H3, and others. What I want to know, is which light is which, so I know what to replace. There is the outside quarter lights, with a large and small bulb on the inside. Then the inner quarter lights (Brights I think?) in the grill. And then the rectangle lights on the bumper. And for each light, which size bulb do they take?
  6. If anyone needs the complete english Workshop manual for this engine i have it and am happy to share it with you, in pdf form. Cooling system https://ufile.io/7b31q Engine control https://ufile.io/ltv1r Engine Mechanical https://ufile.io/8ygvm Exhaust https://ufile.io/fny97 Lubrication https://ufile.io/ao98k Starting system https://ufile.io/znhl7 says it will expire in 30days let me know if you need it reuploaded. please keep it on the dl as not sure about the legalities behind sharing it.
  7. Alrighty guys so this guide/ build log/ r&d will outline how i installed the entire cruise control system from an a32 nissan maxima into my 2000 wgnc34 nissan stagea rsfours type b. So firstly I’ll just state I am just a 19 year old who has absolutely no qualifications, just an interest in electronics and car audio with, in the big scheme of things, not much experience at all. Take all of this information as just a guide and your own r&d as who knows, some of the things may even be considered dangerous! I do welcome feedback and questions though! Prerequisites and Warnings; If you can’t understand how to read, interpret and follow a proper Nissan wiring diagram I’d advise you not to attempt. You must be competent with a soldering iron and or crimping connections If you don’t know how to use all the functions of a standard multimeter do not attempt at all You will have to modify the clock spring, which houses the airbag wiring. This is a large risk that can result in airbag deployment if completed incorrectly then there is the obvious risk of fire/short circuit if any electrical connections are incorrect or poorly terminated etc/not fused i will not be wasting time showing you how to take your interior apart. if you cant workout how to remove your steering wheel/speedo cluster etc you probably dont have the ability to install cruise control into your stagea. Step 1 Wiring diagrams; The wiring greatly differs between automatic and manual vehicles, with the latter being far more simple as transmission control is not needed. It is probably possible with autos but I have not investigated if the transmission control systems share commonalities. I have included both so you can see the differences. Manual transmission Automatic transmission This series of diagrams --cruise control wiring diagram.pdf-- are the in depth wiring diagrams showing all factory pinouts, wire colours etc. they are just what a proper wiring diagrams are. within these diagrams there are various notes such as this one-- what i did was print out the full diagram and white out any unnecessary automatic parts of the diagram to simplify it. i also suggest taking note in this document ---how to read wiring diagrams.pdf---on how to properly read these wiring diagrams and most importantly for pinouts, understanding if a pinout is shown from terminal side or harness side. Step 2: What you will need A32 nissan maxima parts ascd control unit vacuum motor vacuum cable actuator ascd clutch switch ascd brake switch (looks the same as clutch switch, just take both switches on the brake pedal bracket and the clutch switch) ascd steering wheel switch ascd hold relay ascd main switch (can get a usdm d21 pathfinder switch i believe if you want the writing on it to be correct and not horizontal) note: cut off everything with any plugs etc included and give yourself as much loom behind it as possible (atleast 100mm or so), take all bolts/fasteners too take the clock spring and all the wiring inside the steering wheel becuase it comes in handy if you want to incorporate a dash light that says "cruise" take the maxima cluster and connectors too stagea parts you will need a steering wheel that has the large D shape side airbag bolt covers with brackets housed inside. i think series 1 wheels are like this but im not sure what models come like this. all i know is my rs4s wheel is smaller and doesnt have provisions for any audio control (left side) or cruise control (right side). second photo shows said bracket the throttle with second wheel bit (think this came on most autos but again not sure) parts you can get from any car the longest fattest section of wiring loom you can extract from a car (you could go try and find all the colours in maxima wiring diagrams, but i just used what i had and spliced the colours i had in between the maxima terminated ends. consumables and tools 6m of 7 or so mm split loom a heap of double wall heatshrink of assorted sizes electrical tape thats decent your usual pliers,flush cutters, crimping pliers, wire strippers solder and soldering iron pin removal tool and afew of them in different styles the most dangerous tool in the shop (stanley knife.utility knife) t50 torx socket t40 torx socket 17mm socket 10mm socket but seriously does anyone have any of these? phillips head screwdriver and tiny flatheads etc parrot clip leads for your multimeter (the spring loaded clamp ones that allow you to lock onto wires/pins) Step 3: modification (guess you could say fabrication) in this step il be showing you how i (poorly) mounted the ascd vacuum pump, actuator, modified the clock spring, modified the ascd controller case and modified the brake pedal. Clock spring the stock clock spring in my s2 rs4s type b has 3 wires in stock form, (steering wheel side) brown (batt12+), blue and yellow (airbag) The connector on the steering column side of the clock spring had 7 male pins as shown in this photo, (ignore the pen markings) so that got me thinking, if there is a 7 pin input to the ribbon cable there must be a way to add 4 more wires to the steering wheel side. see 7 copper pins through clear window in clock spring. i then peeled the sticker on the face back to reveal the clip that secures the steering wheel wires of the clock spring. to remove this cover the two plastic pins that appear quite butchered in the picture below (top and bottom) need to be cut down with a utility knife as they are melted down larger than the id of the covers holes to ensure if the two centre clips fail there is no chance the cover can come off. they need to be cut down so the "od" of the centre squashed pins are smaller than the "id" of the cover holes as shown in the picture. once the plastic "pins"were modified and free, the centre clip needs to be squashed together releasing the cover. the next picture shows the connection of steering wheel wires to the clock spring copper with cover removed (stock rs4s type b). you would probably find a tiptronic series 2 clock spring has 2 wires you could use for cruise control which means you may not have to perform these modifications. thats just a guess though, and i choose modifying my own over sourcing one to find out if thats the case. next, i cut the connector off the maxima clock spring show in picture below to add to the stagea clock spring. i removed these pins from the maxima connector with a custom pin removal tool that is inserted into the front and the plastic tabs were lifted up, releasing the pins out the back. the wires were then pushed through the stagea wire black sheath shown in picture below and roughly bent to where they would be soldered. (top 3 blue yellow green wires) i then realised there would be a spare pin available so i pushed a blue/orange wire through the airbag black sheath for any future use i think of. the wires insulation were then stripped about 4mm or so, and all were soldered onto the copper pads. (see blue/orange wire second from right). only 2 wires are needed for cruise control out of the 4 that i added total, but i happened to have the opportunity to buy a rare factory option steering wheel audio controller and knew this would require one additional wire, and planned to use that final blue/orange wire in some sort of a scramble high boost mode button configuration on the wheel, hence using all 4 wires. Important soldering tip: pre tin your wires and pre tin the pads. DO NOT put excessive heat into the copper pads at any time. this will melt the delicate ribbon connector attached to the other side ruining the clock spring for good. i did one at a time quickly (tinning helps this) allowing the copper to completely cool between wires. the base of the wires were then secured to the plastic with a small amount of 2 part epoxy. i then pushed the three pins (blue green yellow) into the stagea black connector with the brown wire (horn batt12v+) and there the blue orange wire is loose coming from the airbag connector wire sheath. i then checked continuity between steering wheel pins and rear of clock spring pins and ensured there were no shorts between wires, especially the airbag pins! once i new the modifications were successful, the wire cover was put back on. some material needed to be shaved off the inside to allow more room for the 4 extra wires. once it clipped into place with the centre clip, i used the soldering iron to slightly melt the plastic "pins" ensuring it would never come off, slightly similar to how it was secured from factory. thats it clock spring done! ascd vacuum pump and actuator All i did was mount the pump to the same bracket i had my catch can on in the back passenger side of the engine bay, and made a shitty bracket out of some steel and aluminium that i had lying around to mount the vacuum cable actuator to. this actuator is on the drivers side rear of the bay. im sure far more elegant nice mounts can be made up it works for me haha. ascd controller case (mounting) i mounted the ascd controller behind the drivers side kick panel on the relay bracket. first thing i did was remove one half of the ascd controllers case by bending out the pressed metal around it. once removed the outer metal case, i drilled out the 4 spot welds without going all the way through, removing the factory bracket. i then wire wheeled both the case and relay mount bracket and soldered the 2 together. the case was then put back together and edges bent back to secure it. the photo below shows the final product once completed. brake pedal in my rs4s there was only one weld in nut/captive nut whatever you call it on the brake pedal bracket for the stock brake switch. there is a second hold there but no weld in nut. there is also only one contact for the brake switch and no second one at all. for from my limited research i believe all autos come with both weld in nuts and both contacts ready to go (no modification necessary) (photo below shows view from behind with welded nut, contact and second hole with no nut) to modify; step 1 crack a bleed nipple on a calliper with a clear vinyl tube over it going up to a reservoir/drink bottle or something to collect brake fluid. this is necessary because you need to be able to push the pedal to the floor. step 2: push down pedal with your elbow or whatever and attempt to pry out that little rubber contact you can see in photo above. step 3: get yourself a bolt and nut ( i used a 16mm long m8 high tensile bolt and nut) and steel plate step 4: put bolt through steel plate (if the plate is less than 2mm thick you wont need to grind down bolt head) and push pedal down and put bolt through the hole where the rubber contact previously was and put nut on the back. align plate with the hole where the second brake switch will go and tighten nut and bolt with pedal pressed down.(first pic is side view showing bolt-2X1mm plate-pedal-nut) step 5: this step will make you want to give up. if you finish this you can finish the whole install. you will need a mate with a broom stick or some sort of long pokey device to push the pedal down while your upside down in the footwell. get the stock brake switch and a second nut in hand. get your friend to push the pedal down to the floor and get up in there and put the brake switch through the hole and try and thread the nut back onto the switch from behind. you will now have 2 nuts on the switch clamping it to the bracket. do not tighten down yet. step 6: adjust brake switch back and fourth, with your friend pushing pedal in when necessary, with both nuts so you achieve around 0-0.8mm gap between the switch housing and the contact. to see this you will need to get a phone camera up in there or something. step 5 and 6 definitely are the most difficult, curse inducing, hatred building, case of beer break worthy aspects of the whole cruise control install. step 7: put the brake interrupt switch in and adjust so there is 0-0.8mm of gap between the switch housing and the contact (now the bolt head) see photo below brake switch modifications complete! see photo below for photo Step 4: The wiring So you should have gathered a heap of body loom or wires of different colours from a wrecker/parts car already. ideally you want to use the same colour as the diagram but as long as you record what colours you use etc you should be fine. il tackle this section in the same way i did in mine, one page of the wiring diagram at a time. i will often refer to "running pin so and so to a given location" and in virtually all circumstances out of the car this wire run was a 1.5m or so extended length i had soldered in the colour i chose to the nissan maxima plug if that makes sense. where possible to simplify wire routing i grouped as many as i could in the one run of split loom and when i new i would have afew wires going to the same location i used a drill to for twisted pairs or a larger twisted loom. i ran 3 main "runs" of split loom, one to the main switch, one to the clock spring and any brake switches and a third into the engine bay for the ascd vacuum pump. i suggest soldering extended lengths of wire for all "runs" to the plugs/pins you will add such as brake switches, clock spring connector etc, then running these wires through split loom so they all end up at the ascd controller area and final soldering is consolidated to one location after all other connections are finished. Page 1 of wiring diagram (EL-145 main switch) and page 5 of wiring diagram (el-149)/ "run 1" of split loom so this page for the manual transmission diagram only has just the main switch wiring and ascd hold relay. first wire: pin 1 of the ascd main switch. this is ign power and it is the same source as the ign power for the ascd hold relay. what i did is i found luckily in my scrap wiring loom, a pin that is the same as the pins on the interior fuse panel connector. i chose to do this as factory as possible so i pulled out the fuse panel, bridged the ign relay and traced out 10A fuse that isnt used with the continuity function and found the ign output pin for this fuse. the first photo shows that bottom row, 3 from left (white out indicator) pin will give you 12v+ ign through the red fuse in photo 2 with the white out on it (bottom row 2 from far left) to add the female pin to the harness side connector i sourced the same pin out of the scrap loom i had which looks like the photo below. according to the wiring diagram this wire runs to the main switch (which goes rhs of steering wheel next to fog light switch in speedo cluster surround) and also the ascd main switch (mounted on the ascd controller relay bracket) so i ran the wire off the pin back down the loom towards the mass of wires inside the upper part of kick panel (as a sub loom) then, as i earlier spliced a second wire into the long length (made a y split), i ran one side down to where the ascd relay mounts and one forward out the dash where the ascd switch goes. just incase your connector falls apart like mine did (dont fully take out the inner pin securing backing plastic on connector, i learnt the hard way) here is the wire colours and placement on the connector. the pink/blue wire is the pin i added that connects to third from left as referred to before and the fuse. now pin 4 and 6 of the main switch are both just grounds (pin 6 shows it goes to el-ill or the speedo cluster but upon further investigation its just a ground). i soldered pin 4 wire to pin 6 wire 100mm or so down from the connector and then ran the ground wire right down to where the ascd relay is (same run as the 12v ign+ pin 1 wire). pin 2 and 3 wires were ran down to where the ascd relay is and pin 5 wire was ran 150mm or so down the run of wires then came out of the loom as it were to go to the speedo cluster. now page 5 (el-149) shows pin 7 (speed sensor) and pin 13 (cruise lamp indicator) both go to the combination metre (speedo cluster) so i ran these lengths of wire up the same split loom as the ascd main switch wires, and had them come out in the same spot as the pin 5 of the switch to form a sub loom that heads towards the cluster. (photo below shows 3 speedo sub loom wires before i moved them 150mm down the loom for neater routing. a thicker gauge ground wire with ring terminal crimped and soldered to the end is then thread up "run 1" from the ascd relay area up to where the "Y" is that goes off in the sub loom to the fuse panel connector. this ring terminal is bolted to the common ground thats really obvious just above the large opening in the kick panel metal. pin 2 of the ascd hold relay is crimped and soldered with the ground (pin 4 of the ascd main switch), and pin 3 of the ascd controller to the other end of the thicker ground (down at the ascd relay to form one large common ground for everything. so this "run 1" loom, from ascd main switch to ascd hold relay/ascd controller" has all 6 wires from the switch, a ground and the ign 12v+ fuse panel wire thats splits off in the middle , then 3 split off to the speedo (pin 7 of controller speed sensor, pin 13 of controller cruise lamp, and pin 5 of the main switch the illumination). Page 1 (EL-145),2 (EL-146),3 (EL-147) or "Run 2" of split loom this will be split into 2 sections, brake switch interrupts and clock spring connector. all wires in this section run down the same loom Brake switches so following on from the first section or "run 1" of loom, pin 2 of the ascd main switch on diagram EL-145 when you simplify it, ties into pin 3 of the ascd hold relay, pin 4 of the ascd controller and also then goes off to pin 1 of the ascd clutch switch. what i did here is i connected all 4 wires together in one location down where the ascd hold relay/ascd controller is. the photo below shows run 1 coming in and hidden under heatshrink and tape this 4 way junction takes place and the green/black wire thats visible is now going off in run 2 towards the clutch switch. also in "run 2" a length of wire is ran from the ascd controller area to the brake switch area to connect to pin 5 of the controller and pin 2 of the brake switch. another run of wire is ran from the ascd controller area to the brake switch area through "run 2" split loom to connect to pin 11 of the ascd controller and splice into the factory brake pedal pin 1 (this is the stop lamp switch, sends +12v to the ascd controller when pressed like your brake light) thats it for the brake switch part. will continue the next sections in more comments as this is way too long for poor old sau and its lagging heavily (probably my crappy late 2011 macbook pro)
  8. TheKenso

    Hi ther, i have a problem that came after i changed my baulbes in my AC, replaced them with LED's and my cluster started messing up, Fule and Engien heat is always on max, spedo don't work, and RPM bounces on 500-1000rpm on idel and under full pupp it only goes up to 3000rpm, and the KM on the car reads 999999. Changed back to my normal baulbes and cheked the wiers to chek if ther was any faulty wiers behind the AC unit but coudent finde anything, changed back to my old Baulbes and it stil dosent work. I alsow blew the fuse for "Tail L" wile replacing the baulbes and have replaced the fuse. So, what can be the problem? Can i have messed up the cluster and blew a resistor? is ther a relay that have exploded? I have had the AC unit and CD player out 6-7 times and tried to turn the key on and off, and sometimes it works like it shoud somtiems it just a bit faulty shoing way to hige RPM and the wrong KM (shows about 116k the car has traveld 160k) Sorry if the post is messy, im not always that good at explaning things
  9. prince_skyline

    vic 

    M35 Stagea RS - Wrecking Wrecking my M35 Stagea Parts (off the top of my head) that are sold are: Aero Body kit (sold) Front guards (sold) Tein Coilovers (sold) Whiteline Sway Bars (sold) Rear Compartment cover (sold) Headlights (sold) Eyebrows (sold) Centre head unit (sold pending payment) Steering wheel (sold pending payment) Reverse Camera (sold pending payment) Number plates also for sale: M35WGN All located in Lilydale, VIC Pickup preferred, however will post items at your expense Message me if you are after something specifically, and i'll let you know if it is available
  10. Fridge_repair_man

    Hey guys trying to get some advice for where to go with problem solving on my stagea, its one of the dreaded 08/97 built cars that have an ecu they ran for only one month apparently. pretty much the problem is the car is idle hunting badly running rich and rarely but sometimes stalling at idle and then under power it will stutter and cut out untill i clutch out taking load off. The previous owner had it manual swapped from an auto and the issues started from there as i found from the mechanic who serviced it. if someone could help with a pin out sheet or advice on which ecu to go with or if theres. Something i should replace i would much appreciate it.
  11. It's with regret I'm selling my beloved Nissan Stagea 350RX Wagon. It has a powerful 208kw, yet economical 3.5l VQ35DE (non turbo) motor coupled up to a super smooth 5 speed tip-tronic Transmission which easily and consistently achieves low 10l/100km which equals 700km's around town!! I am the first Australian owner, having imported this magnificent car myself 6 years ago from Japan. It is fully road legal and ADR Compliant. This gorgeous car finished in Sparkling Silver has served me well being a daily driver and has many features which include: Power Steering, Power Windows, ABS, Traction Control, Central Locking, Factory 17" Mag wheels Driver's 8 way Power Seat. Front Passenger 2 way Power Seat. All seats covered in cool Fabric. Steering wheel adjustable for height and reach to get you in the perfect driving position. Dual Zone Climate Control Air Conditioning with Pollen filter fitted. Tinted windows and Factory Privacy Glass. Smart Keys, no need to fumble for your key, just push the button to open the door, jump in and turn the ignition and off you go. Reverse Camera displayed within factory pop up screen. Trip computer with Service reminders and Fuel consumption history. Genuine Steering wheel mounted radio controls and Cruise Control avoids going over the speed limit. With Remote split fold 60/40 rear seats it gives the rear cargo area more useable space than a VE/VF wagon. Has tie downs anchors, carry hooks and Cargo Blind to keep away prying eyes. Two way Self closing tailgate. Open just the glass to throw in something quick or open the complete tailgate for the shopping. Seats 5 and has 3 child anchor points for those with a young family. Electric heated and power foldable mirrors. Auto Headlights with Daytime Running Lamps. Road Speed Variable Intermittent Wipers. Genuine Nissan Floor Mats Front & Rear K&N Air Filter fitted & recently cleaned. Save money by not having to replace costly air filters, Aux Media/TV/MP3 player with USB input, plays all popular formats coupled to the factory Clarion radio which plays clearly and loudly through the factory 6 speaker system for when you are alone. Genuine Nissan Alarm & Immobilizer, with ultra sonic sensors, auto re-arm and lock It has been recently and regularly serviced with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil and front brake pads also replaced less than 500kms ago. All tyres replaced with quality Toyo Nanoenergy 3 tyres approx 12,000kms ago giving the car a smooth quiet ride. This car is a pleasure to drive as it has been well maintained and serviced with Mobil 1 full synthetic engine oil & ryco filters, hence good condition of motor, Genuine Nissan Transmission Oil, Synthetic Diff Oil and Double Platinum Spark Plugs, Full Service History available upon sale. Non Smokers Car. Comes with spares hoses, belts, coolant, Import Approval and any other relevant documents. Come see the car, you wont be disappointed. Price is $11,000 negotiable STRICTLY NO TYRE KICKERS OR SWAPS ***AND DEFINITELY NO OFF SHORE BUYERS*** WHO CAN'T COME AND SEE THE CAR!
  12. KaoTiC TaiPaN

    Hi all, name is Ron. Always owned aussie muscle or just street cars. Have got myself a Nissan Stagea 2001 with a 2.5ltr turbocharged v6 with sports auto. Now I would be older than most people starting to get into jdm autos. I am hoping to be able to ask questions and hopefully if they seem stupid, be gentle.
  13. Hey guys. Have been putting this off, but regretfully needs to be done. Selling my 97 C34 Stagea RSFour. Located in St Kilda. It's on TAS rego with custom plates which I'm hoping to keep and sell separately. I'm open to negotiations as far as how we go about transferring it to you, depending on sale price etc. Eg I sell it unregistered to you, but drive it to yours before taking the plates off so you don't need to truck/trailer it. Willing to figure it out with whoever buys it, there's a few options. I'm after $8k as-is, with no plates/rego/rwc. The good: - Very straight and tidy, inside and out. - Nismo-rep bodykit (minus front bar which is stock with a lip). - Rota 17" TE reps with good Dunlop SP Sport. - BC Coilovers. - FMIC, boost controller, turbo timer. - Exhaust - Decent stereo, Clarion VZ402A with flip up screen, mp3/bluetooth/dvd/etc, Pioneer sub in Pioneer box, etc. - Has the sought after original floor mats, cargo net, and rear cargo cover. Also has various spare parts. - Various other bits and pieces, A pillar boost gauge, quick release battery terminals, etc. The bad: - Brake booster is shot, needs replacing. Comes with a spare that needs rebuilding, so you have 2 to work with and figure it out. - Needs an O2 sensor. Drives fine, but has some mid-range weirdness. - It's been sitting a while due to next bit below, so battery is dead, but when trickle-charged/jumped it starts up first go every time and purrs. I have quite serious medical issues, and am effectively bed-bound. Due to these issues, I'm also flat broke, so while the issues are small, I can't afford to fix them before sale. I think the price is fair in reflection of that, but I'm open to some negotiation for a quick/easy sale. In saying that, I'm not entertaining stupid offers. It's a solid car that just needs someone to love it again. This also means I can't meet anywhere, and it can only be looked at here in St Kilda. No test drives outside of around our underground car park due to the brakes, but you're more than welcome to inspect it as close as you want. It's an honest car and a very VERY regretful sale.
  14. rjmparker

    Help please I have a 1996 Nissan Stagea, and my brake lights dont work... bulbs are fine and so is fuse under dash... yet nothing happens when I hit the pedal... what am I missing?? Not even high stop going, but my tail lights do work
  15. Just noticed some leaking from the power steering rack when I had the wheel off. Not entirely old residue, there was a couple fresh looking drops on it. Haven't noticed anything weird with the steering yet, so assuming relatively fresh leak. Any thoughts on how to go about fixing this? It seems to be only surrounding that large bolt.
  16. So, I've recently purchased a C34 Stagea with the legendary RB25DET engine. It was brought to my attention that I cant drive a turbocharged car on my green P's. I was un-aware of this because im from NZ and there were no restrictions on engine size there so it never crossed my mind. I'm also on green p's only because I am under 20 I transfered my New Zealand full licence and have my green P's until I'm twenty in January. So anyway I came to discover that I can get an exemption since it's power to weight ratio is under the limit. I went onto the raws website and screenshotted and printed off the details of the car, weight and engine power output. took it into the department of transport and they said they couldn't use it and that I need a letter from nissan stating the weight and power output. I emailed nissan Australia and Nissan Japan and they both said they couldn't help thats when i found the raws website but apparently that's un-usable, completely wasted my time waiting at the department of transport for nothing which is always fun... If anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated! Dont wanna go selling it straight after buying it. Thanks!
  17. WTB bride seat rail passenger side suit stagea S1 and S2, model number N120M0 or N120R0
  18. WTB, chasing a bride seat rail for passenger side of series 1&2 Stagea, part number N120M0
  19. Chasing a passenger side bride seat rail, suit a series 1&2 stagea. Part number N120M0
  20. Hi All, I have a couple of parts for a C34 Stagea for sale set of THULE roofracks with the wind fairing - $300 Cargo Blind - great condition - $120 Pickup, Canberra
  21. 1999 rb25det neo AWD auto Stagea 197000km service history for nearly all the time in Aus Leather heated seats Touch screen climate control tv DVD etc Reverse camera Bc coilovers 9 months rego vic Alloy radiator 4 new tyres Good reliable car only selling as I have a work car and no need for the stagea now $6500
  22. I bought this car approximately 1.5 years ago, and I planned to keep it for quite a while thanks to the low kms at the time of purchase (approximately 55,000). However, personal circumstances have changed and now I need to sell it. In no particular order, here are the major features: Front and rear power sunroof, with lockout switch for rear sunroof. Factory radar cruiser control. After market alarm and immobiliser (installed during compliance). 4WD, 4 Wheel Steering (HICAS) and LSD. 5-Speed Automatic with manual control. I obtained a suitable paddle-shifter from a V35 Nissan Skyline 350GT-8, but I never got around to installing it (happy to throw this in at no extra charge). Factory Japanese DVD Navigation System with factory screen (menus are untranslated). RCA inputs for audio/video playback. Factory head unit, with cassette tape/CD/Mini-Disc playback support (Mini-Disc Changer is in the centre storage bin). Factory reverse camera. Driver and Passenger electronic/heated seats, with manually adjustable lumbar support on driver seat. Full factory leather interior, with matching leather trim. Front and rear factory carpets, including factory boot carpet. Factory tyre-jack set/spare wheel. Factory cargo net. Factory cargo cover. Factory rear seat-belt for middle passenger, and rear child-proof seat-belt clasp. Driver/passenger front and side airbags, curtain airbags for 2nd row Front and rear fog lights. Height adjustable faxtory Xenon headlights. Completely mechanically stock, with no alterations or non-factory modifications other than a new battery (less than 1 year ago). Brake cut-off mod completed recently, with switch installed in back of glove-box. All original manuals and paperwork included, and even some detailed service receipts while it was still in Japan. Very comfortable and easy to drive, reassuringly solid in wet weather, and just cool in general. Has not been thrashed and has always been fed with V-Power petrol. Overall condition of the car is seriously very very good, especially considering its age. Original Japanese de-registration papers, and copies from an online registration check, are also included. Kilometres have been proven. Registration expiring April 2018. Biggest problem would be the condition of the drivers seat. There are no tears or rips of any kind, but the colour (and a bit of the leather feel) has faded from the left hand side of the seat. I also have the paddle-shifters from a V35 GT-8, and some braces that have not been installed yet. Willing to throw them into the deal as well. Asking price: $13,500 (ONO) KM's: 64,000 VIN: U90000NM35302391 Model Code: VLGPRXNM35UDA-AA-C http://gtr-registry.com/en-nm35-vin-table.php Contact Name: George Contact Number: 0412 443 996 Email: flamingmonkey@gmail.com Price is negotiable, and I need this gone, so please make me a reasonable offer! Car is also on Carsales and Gumtree.
  23. darksould43

    i was just driving around today and helped out some tourists jumping starting their car, 2.5/5 v6 magnnum, and as i was driving away i notcied my at check light came on, this is the first time it has happened, tried turning the car on and off and still there, so i drove home, turned it off for a bit and before i went out for adrive again i pput into 'd' and juist waited a bit before going anywhere and it didnt come on, anything i have to worry about? ill check if it does it again tomorrow, could it be taking off to quickly when putting it into gear? p.s i also left the car running the whole time doing the jump start
  24. I'm after the front bar from the C34 Nismo kit (or a replica). Willing to pick up from VIC/SA/NSW or I guess I can see what it'd cost to post from further Any colour, any (repairable) condition. Like this one:
  25. Caleb_M35

    As the title suggests, is it possible to remove the front CV shafts on an NM35 Stagea without any ill-effects? I have already removed the front tailshaft so currently there is zero power going to the front diff and the front CV shafts are just passively spinning with wheel rotation On a side note, here's a terrible iPhone quality photo of my stag rolling on all 4 Garsons for once