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Found 489 results

  1. Hi! I have had the pleasure of having my high pressure line on my power steering start leeking. Tried to so a quick fix to no help, and since stagea parts arent easy to come by where i live, i was wondering if anyone have swapped out the oem with AN connections and hose?
  2. 1999 Nissan Stagea RS4 Dayz Manual Hey there ladies and gents, as per title selling a Series 2 RS4 manual swapped dayz edition. This is as good as they get before S2 factory manuals/260RS being a S2, GTR box, dayz kit and the RB25 NEO. It is still AWD. Bought with the intention of dailying it, but circumstances have changed so time to move it on. Have spent lots of time and money on bringing this up to standard, bought it as a half completed manual conversion with a bunch of things needed. Heres the spill; ENGINE Stock RB25DET NEO w/ 160,000km Splitfire Coilpacks OEM Airbox (comes with a hectic pod filter if suits buyers taste) Major service completed including timing belt, cam and crank seals, coolant flush, oil (castrol 10w-40), oil filter and sparkplugs OEM exhaust DRIVETRAIN, BRAKES AND SUSPENSION R32 GTR 5 speed gearbox R32 GTR transfer case Brand new single plate Exedy clutch (push type) Gearbox oil drained and filled with Redline shockproof gear oil Transfer case oil drained and filled with Nissan D-Matic (ATF) Front and rear diffs drained and filled with Penrite 75w-90 gear oil ATTESSA flushed, filled with Nissan D-matic and bled R32 GTR Sumitomo front calipers & rotors Adjustable height and rebound coilovers (unsure of brand) Hardrace adjustable front upper control arms Hardrace adjustable rear upper control arms EXTERIOR & INTERIOR Factory Dayz kit including front bar, side skirts, rear bar and spoiler. Non-sunroof Wont come on the 8 MR BBS wheels, Will come on R33 GTST wheels with RWC tread. Factory manual centre console R34 GTT Steering wheel with a Silvia airbag OEM electric leather seats OEM cargo net and privacy cover New FitMyCar full set of floor mats Fresh paint correction buff and polish, then sealed with autoglym wax Aftermarket alarm, immobilizer and central locking Thats pretty much it, only things to note is it does have the common stagea rust under the mirrors, the boot has a decent dent in it, and the drivers seat has a tear in it. There are inperfections here and there, and i have tried to take pictures of absolutely every one i can see. These are available to serious buyers, so there is no hidden surprises before inspecting. I have tried to reflect all this in the asking price. Asides from that its a clean and honest car. Happy for comp testing to be done for serious buyers only. Sold with no RWC or Rego. *WONT COME WITH BBS’s, WILL COME WITH R33 GTST WHEELS* Any questions please feel free to pm me. located Eltham North
  3. 1999 Nissan Stagea RS4 Dayz Manual Hey there ladies and gents, as per title selling a Series 2 RS4 manual swapped dayz edition. This is as good as they get before S2 factory manuals/260RS being a S2, GTR box, dayz kit and the RB25 NEO. It is still AWD. Bought with the intention of dailying it, but circumstances have changed so time to move it on. Have spent lots of time and money on bringing this up to standard, bought it as a half completed manual conversion with a bunch of things needed. Heres the spill; ENGINE Stock RB25DET NEO w/ 160,000km Splitfire Coilpacks OEM Airbox (comes with a hectic pod filter if suits buyers taste) Major service completed including timing belt, cam and crank seals, coolant flush, oil (castrol 10w-40), oil filter and sparkplugs OEM exhaust DRIVETRAIN, BRAKES AND SUSPENSION R32 GTR 5 speed gearbox R32 GTR transfer case Brand new single plate Exedy clutch (push type) Gearbox oil drained and filled with Redline shockproof gear oil Transfer case oil drained and filled with Nissan D-Matic (ATF) Front and rear diffs drained and filled with Penrite 75w-90 gear oil ATTESSA flushed, filled with Nissan D-matic and bled R32 GTR Sumitomo front calipers & rotors Adjustable height and rebound coilovers (unsure of brand) Hardrace adjustable front upper control arms Hardrace adjustable rear upper control arms EXTERIOR & INTERIOR Factory Dayz kit including front bar, side skirts, rear bar and spoiler. Non-sunroof Wont come on the 8 MR BBS wheels, Will come on R33 GTST wheels with RWC tread. Factory manual centre console R34 GTT Steering wheel with a Silvia airbag OEM electric leather seats OEM cargo net and privacy cover New FitMyCar full set of floor mats Fresh paint correction buff and polish, then sealed with autoglym wax Aftermarket alarm, immobilizer and central locking Thats pretty much it, only things to note is it does have the common stagea rust under the mirrors, the boot has a decent dent in it, and the drivers seat has a tear in it. There are inperfections here and there, and i have tried to take pictures of absolutely every one i can see. These are available to serious buyers, so there is no hidden surprises before inspecting. I have tried to reflect all this in the asking price. Asides from that its a clean and honest car. Happy for comp testing to be done for serious buyers only. Sold with no RWC or Rego. *WONT COME WITH BBS’s, WILL COME WITH R33 GTST WHEELS* $10,000 Located Eltham North Any questions please feel free to pm me.
  4. I’ve been f**king around with the lifters in my rb trying to get them to stop ticking. But when I’ve gone to put the cams back in I just realised it’s basically impossible to re seat the timeing belt on the cam gears. I know your meant to use the tensioner to get the belt back on. But to get to it is a bloody pain I’d have to remove my rad and harmonic balancer (which I also don’t have a puller for) and if possible would like to skip all that extra work. Does any one know any little tricks that I can use to get the belt back on the gears without haveing to use the tensioner. I’m guessing I’m probably just gona have to suck it up and do it properly but hey why not ask 🤷‍♂️
  5. I have a 1999 Stagea S2 RS Four auto/tiptronic with rear quarter panel damage - it's too expensive to repair but has everything else working. Engine, gearbox, windows, lights, doors (except tailgate), bonnet, et cetera are all in good condition and the car is still rego'd and legal to drive. If you want some parts, or the whole car, please get in touch
  6. Hi All, First time poster so I appreciate your time. NISSA STAGEA WGNC34 RS FOUR S FOR SALE. Year: 2000 Kms: 122000 Location: Sydney - Newtown Colour: Silver Condition: Good New Wheels and Rims. Goes like a dream. Recent service in July. Manual + 4WD. Turbo Timer. Not really sure what it's worth so happy to take offers, but from the limited adds I've seen on carsales > $15000 I would think. Thanks everyone.
  7. NM35 Stagea lower control arms & ball joints+spindles For sale is a set of AWD lower control arms with new Superpro bushes, and full spindles with new ball joints installed. Selling because I mistook them as RWD parts, but they are sadly not. (Don't get me started on my ball joint replacement story!!!) Asking $400 all up, for new bushes and ball joints already pressed in for easy installation. Saves you a lot in labour already! Located 2203.
  8. Bit of background. So, car had been running rough for the past month or so where I’d get no power on boost at all basically almost felt like it was na. Checked for boost leaks, replaced plugs and coil packs compression test all fine still no progress. After about a month of scratching my head thought I’d check the ignition timing to see if that’s the issue. Got the coil cover off and CAS lose ready to adjust everything but as I went to check it all turns out my shit supercheap timing light decided to stop working. So, I put it all back together making sure to put the CAS back in its original spot so not to stuff everything up. Went for a driver and after about 20 mins car hesitated pretty violently jerking the car a bit. Kind of like fuel cut would feel like. And then 10 seconds later it all goes to shit and starts misfiring like crazy. Its struggling to stay at idle without me giving it some throttle. Then bam like the flick of a switch completely back to normal. and then a minute later it happened again misfiring like crazy. It stalls like twice as I’m trying to get it off the road to a side street its parked now and not starting at all, let her sit for about 5 minutes and tried to start it again. fired up perfectly normally and idled for a few mins completely fine and then again lots of misfiring and it died and wouldn’t start. I came back the next day to see if I could get it home because I only lived 2 mins down the road and f**k getting a tow truck for that. But same thing again stated fine got halfway there and it started to shit itself again, lucky I was on a hill so I could just roll her home. So in a nutshell Car has a intermittent misfire with no specific trigger. comes and goes every few mins. So, since its intermittent like that it’s pretty obvious its not mechanical issue. That seems like a pretty fair statement to make right? Therefore, its most likely a electrical issue. Something to do with a sensor or ecu. My best guess from my research is that its Either the AFM or CAS sensor that’s causing the issues. especially since i was fiddling arounds with the CAS sensor earlier. Does this sound about right to anyone? Thanks
  9. Someone please help me, I'm dumb but like nice cars lol. I own a 2001 m35 nissan stagea, it's auto. Has electronic throttle body. Accelerator isn't working and it won't rev, it idles fine but tiny bit low, believe it's in limp mode as when I last had the car is was shutting down loosing power and wouldn't drive over approx 12kms, if you press the accelerator the bit inside the throttle body doesn't move. Wire that lead to throttle body and pedal both have voltage. I had in scanned by a mobile mechanic and no codes came up which i thought was strange but the guy said it was a good sign. My brother who doesn't know much about imports thinks it could be the accelerator pedal sensor and took a photo of it for me and told me to locate someone selling that part, the number on the part is 18919-6N201 but when I search it nothing to do with a stagea comes up. Basically I'm after a part number so I can see if that's the issue and I'm also very very open to any other ideas to what my problem could be. My car was stolen and since having it recovered it's been this way.
  10. Brendons M35 build Thought I'd create a mini build thread on my progress with my first foray into Nissan wagon life and also a place to ask questions/path to follow. I bought the car with f**ked coil packs so I picked it up cheap off some Indian guy. Put a new set of coil packs in and all was sweet for the next 6 months . . . https://imageshack.com/i/pnV0vOWcj https://imageshack.com/i/pltD8QHij https://imageshack.com/i/popQVxMsj I noticed an oil leak from the passenger side that was slowly getting worse and traced it back to the oil feed line. Ah well no biggy, just an easy fix or so I thought! Having not worked on a VQ before, it wasn't until later on I discovered you can't get the line off without pulling the whole turbo Since the car wasn't far off 200k and the turbo had begun the Dyson whine song, I frantically searched for a new turbo. Scotty to the rescue with a Billet Intense he had spare that got to me in 4 days. In the mean time while the car was off the road I set about fabbing up a 3" bellmouth dump pipe. Then followed it up with a 3"-2.5" intake pipe. (Still need to weld on BOV return bung) And this weekend just gone I fabbed up a 3" catless exhaust system to finish it all off. I picked up 7psi of boost without touching a thing, so it's stuck on 21psi with standard injectors and pump. I've hit up Christian to see if it's possible to run the car safely at this level on 98 with his flash tune, otherwise I will probably put a hi-flow cat in to drop the boost a little. I've got a few other things in the works but all in due time!
  11. Hey guys, Just a quick one I can’t find any info on. Im installing a haltech elite 2000 into my c34 stagea. It requires a signal wire from the power output on the injector relay. I’ve tried the engine bay, under the drivers kick panel and drives coin tray but have had no luck finding the relay I need. If anyone knows of the injector relay location please let me know
  12. Got a basically stock 99 RB25Det Neo Stagea. Just recently had to replace all the coil packs because one had failed so I got some brand-new spit fires for the old girl. About a week after installing them stated to feel like the car was down on power a little when I got on boost. After driving around for a bit I could tell something was up. first gear almost felt like the car was NA with what felt like no extra power when I got on boost. Second wasn’t as bad had a little extra power on boost but still nowhere near where it was before. 3rd 4th 5th Also sort of felt off (But it’s kind of hard to tell in the high gears). To sum it up Car feels Absolutely normal driving around normally (Not getting on boost). But as soon as you get on boost there is no power. The car sort of hesitates and throughout the rev range the power will tend to fluctuate come in and out a little bit. I’ve been driving it sparingly for the last week and have also noticed that some days it feels like its NA with almost zero power. Others its not so bad. And one day this week the car feels almost normal. So, it’s a little intermittent. Not too sure what’s going on My first reaction was "it’s probably just a boost leak" but my boost gauge was still siting on 12psi like normal and I’ve got the reference line for it coming directly from the intake manifold so there’s no funny business going on in between. Other Thought was it had something to do with spark. so, I got all new sparkplugs and just got a brand-new set of coils. I just left the plugs with the stock 1.1mm gap and tested each coil pack/coil pack wire and plug to see if I’m getting a nice blue spark which I am. So that’s crossed of the list From what I can tell I must have something to do with fuel. Not sure exactly what could be only guess is dying pump, blocked fuel filter, blocked injectors. Note about 3 weeks before all this I used some of that liquid injector cleaner that you put in your fuel tank. possibly dislodged a bit of gunk somewhere in the fuel system and is causing issues?? I have no real way to test the fuel pressure let alone the whole system. Haven’t really messed around much with fuel stuff all that much in my time so any ideas or tips or tricks for trouble shooting would be greatly apricated. Could it be possible something is stuffed with the ecu???
  13. Stolen from long term car parking at the Melbourne Airport. This morning 24th December 2019. Merry Christmas hay. Please contact me if anybody has seen anything. Not insured! Brand new Dunlop Sportsmaxx tyres too! Rego is CM21PA from NSW. Copy BBS wheels, right hand passenger door is a replacement with chrome trim coverd by black sticker that is peeling off. Blue silicon turbo intake bit under bonnet, cream interior with some cuts in leather driver and passenger seats, pram in the back and kids toys. Thanks guys. I will post up my Vin when I can find it. But it ends with 7550. Thank you.
  14. I’m on my way back from work when all of a sudden it feels like I lose one cylinder. Missfireing like crazy running real rough. I get back home and start trouble shooting what’s going on. Turns out one of my coil packs died but while I had all the spark plugs out I thought I’d give my new compression tester a go. Much to my dismay all 6 cylinders were around 110 psi. (full report below) I don’t believe this to be the cause of the misfire as I’m %99 my coil was munted. But still 110 psi in all 6 cylinders isn’t good. I’ve got a few ideas what could be causing the problem. But any input or ideas would be great. I’m thinking it could be worn piston rings or possibly ringland failure. Although I find it hard to believe the ringland failed on all 6 cylinders. Also The engine only has 150k on it and is basically stock only thing I’ve done to it is upped the boost from 7 to11psi nothing crazy. But what I think the problem most likely is, is my timing belt is starting to go or skipped a tooth or something and is throwing the timing off and therefore the compression. But hey I’m just some hopeless 18 year old. If any of y’all have the slightest idea what could be going on some guidance would be greatly appreciated.🤘 Rb25det NEO in a rs4s stagea 150xxx kms C1 105 psi C2 110 psi C3 107 psi C4 110 psi C5 105 psi C6 117 psi
  15. Hey wagoneers About to get an absolute steal on a RSV stag and just sorting out P plate exemptions and what not in Qld BUT, having some back and forths with a few people saying rs V dosent fall under 125kw/t even tho it's 123kw/t Also just wondering where the hell and who the hell I'd ask or find a power spec sheet from Nissan for the exemption? If anyone has one that'd be greatly appreciated
  16. hello once again anyone out there got a english translated spec sheet from nissan or even home made that passed for a rs4/rs. about to buy a rs but willing to do a cheeky photoshop to pass the rs someone PLEEAASSEEE help asap
  17. hey all, stripped old mate david sta-gea a while ago and have some left over stuff series 2 c34 front bumper reo $100 front and rear seatbelt kit- missing some bolts $50 front passenger side factory xenon head lamp- one broken tab (i have the tab) uncut balasts box of random interior pieces, trims etc $20 located in thomastown please text only on 0411421097
  18. Hey Guys and Girls, I've sold my Stagea and no longer require this OB-Link............ THIS is the ONLY version of OBD2 reader that will read the ECU. Not that complex, connects to any device be it your phone or a tablet ETC via bluetooth. You can display anything you would like off the ECU ie: *Water Temp / *Oil Temp / *Ignition timing / *Intake temp There's one on e-bay atm for $269.00 but I payed less than that back in 2012 so snap this one up instead. Price: $225.00ono Location: Western Sydney or Postage at buyers expense. Thanks, Theo.
  19. Hi SAU, First time Stagea owner but second time Nissan owner. Over the years I have owned a few vehicles: NA6 Miata, XE10 IS200, RPS13 Type X and finally my JZX100 Chaser. More recently I have picked up my (new to me) 1999 WGNC34. Decided to write up a build thread to try document my journey and any stuff that I come across which could potentially help any other future Stagea owners. I had been searching for a Stagea even though I loved my Chaser; but it wasn't big enough to hold my mountain bike. Mind you I do not have any kids so I wasn't exactly buying the Stagea to fit in baby seats or prams - just always kind of had a weird fetish/fascination with sports wagons. A few of the Stagea guys on the Facebook group advised me to check out a one GV1 Series II located in Adelaide. Previously I never had the balls to go interstate just in case it was a stinky pile of kangaroo crap and I'd have to organise flights to come back. Prior to flying out I did check out a few Stageas here in VIC but they were either in piss-poor condition or were charging through the roof for a still piss-poor condition. (To be noted I was looking for one that already had a R34 GTR conversion done as I figured if I was ever to sell the Chaser it would be for a R34 GTR (queue cliche little boy's wet dream) but apparently the dealer was a little dodgey and the other private owner couldn't find any paperwork and was a little hard to deal with (had zero confidence in flying up to QLD for a potential shit-box Decided to call the Adelaide owner and upon speaking to him I gained I'd say a bit more confidence. This Stagea had been a single Aus owner, loads of receipts for both servicing and parts plus he had owned it for about 4-5 years. [There were two or three that I was considering which were interstate as well however did not seem to have the paperwork that this one did.] It was what I was looking for; factory manual Dayz edition with dual sunroof. My Chaser nor my 180SX never had a sunroof and I missed having one from my old XE10. She had originally been imported by Sinergy/Synergy in Adelaide and lived its entire life there. Further to the receipts it did come with a quite a few juicy fruits and tuned to 259awkw and 673NM. The following mods came with when I brought her back to VIC. HKS 2835 GT PRO S Turbo Custom Turbo Dump Pipe 3" Full Exhaust Blitz FMIC - Return flow Bosch 750cc EV14 Injectors (E85 compatible) ARP 2000 Head Studs Nistune ECU Turbo-Smart BOV Turbo-Smart Boost Gauge Walbro 460 LPH E85 compatible Nismo Adjustable Fuel Pressure Spitfire coilpack HKS Pod Filter Z32 AFM Billet Catch Can Modifications - Wheels RAYS GT-7 2 Piece Forged 17" x 8.5" 235/45 Tyres Modifications - Suspension Bilstein Apparently all servicing, tuning and installation had been carried out by JMS in Adelaide. Pro's: Juicy fruit mods Power is already more than enough for me - I tend to baby my cars Con's: Leaky (wind and water) from rear passenger window Rust underneath passenger wind mirror (known issue with Stageas) Rust on tailgate (known issue with Stageas) Uses way too much fuel for the way I drive - this may be due to a rich tune. Pictures to follow!
  20. So I just finished installing my new clutch kit on my rs4 stagea, gear box is in and bolted up. The car comes with basically the same gearbox as a 33 gtr with a pull style clutch. I was just about to put the slave cylinder back on but realised that I could slide the clutch fork along the input shaft with no resistance. after getting some light I could tell that the throw out bearing isn’t locking in to the retaining clip on the pressure plate like its meant to. whenever I pull back on the fork it basically just pops right out with minimal force. I’m not sure if I’ve just damaged that little clip along the way somewhere or its defective. So is it possible to just buy a new clip from the manufacture?? Or maybe I’m just missing something is there a special way to get it to engage or something????? Pls help thanks
  21. Hey everyone I’m doing a clutch job on my rb25 stagea and have got to the stage of replacing the rear main seal. This bloody rear main seal retainer WILL NOT BUDGE I’ve tryed for hours to break the gasket seal but have gotten no where. On my first attempt to remove the retainer I snapped it basically in half “pics attached “ trying to pry it off from the block. I have got another one but at still struggling to get the broken one off. There is very little room to get to each side of the retainer from under the car with a screwdriver or pry bar. After doing some research I found that you don’t even have to take the retainer off to get the seal out but it’s too late now I need to replace it. If you guys know any little tricks or tips to get it off that would be greatly appreciated🙌😩
  22. Hey Guys and Girls, Selling my GReddy InfoMeter (Doesn't work on the Navara *Sad Face*) HAHA Read's off the ECU check out the Vid for more info....... Price: $300 Location: Western Sydney or postage at buyers expense. Thanks Theo.
  23. Hi all I have a great condition R33 gtr airbox, competed (box and snorkle) forsales, Sth East Melb pick up preferred. $350 is what i'm asking for, exactly what i paid for. Thanks
  24. Hey Guys and Girls, I've sold my Stagea and now selling the Vented bonnet - It's a Freeway Dolphin Bonnet. These were $1600 brand new plus importing from japan - its a big item it wasn't cheep. Try Googling M35 freeway dolphin bonnet OR M35 Vented Bonnet...... you wont find one!!! besides a photo of one on a red car this is the only only we've ever found in existence. IF you would like the opportunity to own this I'll be putting this up on E-bay in a few weeks. Reserve will be set at $800 or you can buy it now for $1200. Don't bother PM'ing me with offers I don't care how many times I have to put it up on E-bay until it sells OR ill keep it and hang it on my garage wall as a momento to remember all the good times I've had with this car!!! Cheers, Theo
  25. Hey guys and girls, It's a sad day but I've got to let it go as I've bought a tow car and can no longer keep the Stagea. I bought the car from Northshore Prestige back in 2011 (65,000km). Been looked after and undercover all its life here, serviced every 5000km. it has 11months Rego and is priced to sell. $12,000. (204kw@w & 750nm - Still on stock turbo @ 16psi) I'll start off with the extra's: Freeway Dolphin vented bonnet $1000ono G37 Akebono Brakes $2000ono HKS F-con V-pro ECU with PnP loom $1750ono the following list comes with the car......... K&N airfilter with custom power duct airbox mod. Scotty's Custom 3" Dump pipe. Full SS X-force 3" exhaust with 100cell cat, resonator and muffler with dual tips. BC Racing Coilovers, Whiteline Swaybars & Underbody bracing. 17mm Phenolic intake spacer with ceramic coated intake & pipes. Transgo Shift Kit with B&M trans cooler and thermo fan. (80deg) HDi 3" Intercooler Kit. Mishimoto Radiator and 76deg Nismo thermostat. Scotty's Water coolant mod (opens up the rear water gallery on the back of the block) Daleo's Custom 2.5" suction pipe. Scotty's custom 16PSI wastegate actuator. Turbosmart Dual port BOV. 18x8" Koya RG-Tek rims with RE003's 350Z 3.08:1 LSD diff HKS? Sandwitch plate and B&M oil cooler with thermo fan. (80deg) Power steering cooler. Blacked out AXIS grill / Blacked out front headlights. AXIS body kit with flairs. Nismo rear tailgate wing. V35 Facia with Kenwood DDX4031 Cd player/ Sat Nav/ Bluetooth etc etc AXIS floor mats & leather everything. Rear boot mat with pull out cover. Service history summarized. LSD diff service and installed with new fluid 10/2013 Gearbox flushed 112,500km 4/2016 Rocker cover gaskets replaced 4/2016 Coolant flush & Oil/filter 112,500 4/2016 Spark plugs & Oil/filter 120,000km 4/2017 K&N filter (after the BMC filter died) 124,500km 10/2017 Brake Fluid flush 124,500km 10/2017 Oil & filter 129,000km 2/2019 the belts have been replaced haven't noted down when but lubed every 5000km O2 sensor & AFM replaced 2017 New battery in 2017. New front disc's in 2017. I have a new pollen filter which hasn't been installed yet. and if your still reading: 2011 - all mod's except ECU 176kw@w on the DVS dyno 2012 - it made 204kw@w on the DVS dyno with a guess of 750nm of torque. 2012 - WISD 1/4 mile - 13.9sec (i think it was at 140km/h) 2014 - SMSP South Circuit - 1:08 with Nitto Semi slick's Hopefully i've covered everything but feel free to email me or send a msg (can't answer during business hours) tmuuldriks at gmail.com 0412 zero seven three 215 Thanks Theo.
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