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R34 Auto Off headlights Hello, So today i modded my headlights to they turn off automatically when the key is removed from the car. I am doing this on my 1998 R34 25gt. It should be the same for the gtt at least, and somewhat similar for other models. This will make sure you cant leave your headlights on when you park only to return to a flat battery. (I've done this 3 times now) Tools: Soldering iron, Wire cutters, wire strippers, pliers, Crimper (i just used my pliers) Supplies: Solder, 3 horn relays. (i used jaycar part SY4068) at least 12 connectors to put on the relay tab (you need 12, but the packs from jaycar come in 8 packs.) couple of meters of wire Heat shrink First you will have to remove the plastic surround that goes around the steering column. There are 3 screws underneath. undo these and pull down on the handle that adjusts the wheel height, with this done it should just pop off. once this is done you will need to remove the lower dash piece. On mine there is a screw on the left and a couple of bolts on the right next to the bonnet release. you should now be able to pull it off, making sure to disconnect any plugs that are on the panel. there will be a bundle of wire coming from just behind the wheel under the dash then back up under the dash, In mine it was already cut open so this is where i attached my relays. you will need to find the correct wires that control the head lights. In my case it was the RED/WHITE wire, RED/YELLOW wire and the RED/BLUE But you should check these are correct. Best way i found is to look on the back on the indicator stalk there are 2 plugs, one has about 12 connectors on it, the other has 4. The connector with 4 plugs should have the wires said above and a green/white one. (Again your mileage may vary) Where ever you decide to splice into these wires you might want to cut the wire and extend it about 10cm on each side of the cut so you have a bit more room to work with. I soldered my little extension on the cut wire and heat shrunk it up. With this done i crimped the connectors onto the end of my wire and connected these to pins 87 and 30 of each relay. Now to get some power to toggle the relays. you will need some that is only powered with the key in the ignition. I got mine from the 12v socket next to the shifter. Connect a length of wire to the pos and neg of this and run it to under that dash (There might be a better spot to get this from, but i couldn't think of anywhere) then you will have to split this between the 3 relays. you can do this how ever you want. it should be pretty straight forward. crimp your connectors onto these wires and plug them on the remaining relay plugs. When moving the key to ACC you should be able to head the relays clicking. if not check your getting 12V on the connectors and that they are plugged in to the correct pins. it should be pins 85 and 86. Check that the lights all turn on with the key in the ignition. remove the key and the lights should go off with that.

Im just wondering what this socket is for?

I've been having trouble with intermittent and broken power windows on the R32. Using the information from https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291360-power-window-stuck-electric-window/?do=findComment&comment=4878899 I found that: most of the problems were resolved by cleaning the switches, the last issue was fixed by re-soldering the relay in the "amplifier". Also the drivers side switch can be opened and fixed too. So, the drivers switch internals; As you can see it has the same problem as the passenger switch shown in the post linked above. That post says "10) STOP! dont try to pry apart the circuit board any further.. as you will break it.. if you look at this picture you can see that due to this whole assembly being screwed down THEN soldered in the nissan factory.. its not possible to remove this, so i just sprayed the cleaner as much as possible inside and re-assembeled everything, i suppose if it got really broken in there you could cut the circuit board to remove those 2 tiny little screws you see in the pic and get in there" I eventually managed to get the assembly apart by removing the screws (the circuit board untouched) then flexing the black plastic. However there was some damage; Perhaps you will have better luck. Anyway that break is not bad enough to cause issues and since the swtich was not usable anyway i figured i had nothing to loose. So after clean up; And, similar to what i found on the passenger side, the switch contacts were badly pitted; So i reversed the orientation of these pieces before reinstalling them, hoping that may help them last a little longer. Now putting the pieces in place; And then carefully lowering the cap back onto the switch, making sure the switch lever points sit in the valleys before pushing it together. The tabs click into place and i left the screws out as the switch is very solidly mounted without them, and they would be very difficult to get back in. After all that, I still had intermittent operation of down on the drivers side window. Up always worked, and up and down always worked on the passenger side. I found that the issue was due to dry joints on the surface mounted relay in what Nissan calls the "power window amplifier". This is a black box mounted under the door trim, occupying the space under the elbow rest/shelf/whatever that's called. Its attached by a metal bracket with two screws into the door shell. To get inside the box, I put some sandpaper on a flat surface then wore away one long edge and the short edge opposite the plug end. The plug end is not bonded to the cap in that end, so now we have three sides of the box that are "free" and can then flex the side open. Sorry - should have taken photos. Once open there is a single circuit board with two surface mounted relays (that is, the relays are soldered directly onto the board). I noticed that two of the joints appeared to have a little carbon around them. From the service manual, the amplifier pin out is; To operate the relays, apply +12v to pin 4, then connect ground to 1 and 2 to drive the relays. The intermittent operation occurred on the relay with the carboned up joints, and those joints didn't look like they'd been soldered well (they should look concave). I applied heat to the solder joints to have the solder re-flow onto the relay pin and board run. Re-checked them by applying voltage and they were now working well. If you want to multimeter test the drivers side switch, facing the switch and labelling pins as Drivers window; 1 & 2 - open circuit, connected on UP and AUTO UP 1 & 3 - open circuit, connected on DOWN and AUTO DOWN 1 & 4 - open circuit, connected on AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN Passenger window; 1 & 7 - connected, open circuit on UP and DOWN 7 & 9 - connected, open circuit on UP 1 & 9 - connected, open circuit on DOWN

Hey guys, Just a quick one I can’t find any info on. Im installing a haltech elite 2000 into my c34 stagea. It requires a signal wire from the power output on the injector relay. I’ve tried the engine bay, under the drivers kick panel and drives coin tray but have had no luck finding the relay I need. If anyone knows of the injector relay location please let me know

I have known for a long time that my 4wd doesn't work. with the ignition on and trying to do the attesa bleeding procedure my pump will not ever come on. i have 2 issues i believe, firstly, my pump has siezed up and i know this because i have bypassed the big relay in the boot and can not get the pump to start even whacking it the same way that frees up a fuel pump usually whilst bypassing the relay and giving the pump power. but i believe it has siezed because the ecu is not ever closing the relay. i have tested the relay on the battery and it is very noisy when it clicks closed. i can not hear the relay click closed when the ignition is turned to on which i have heard many other r32 gtr 4wd systems prime the pump every ignition cycle. i'm not getting any codes unless i induce a fault like unplugging the pump or a relay, so my ecu believes all is well and my front torque guage is operating correctly. my theory, my attesa ecu or wiring loom is stuffed and therefore the relay never closes and my pump is never getting used and that's why it has siezed up. any opinions would help. i should try another ecu and see if it closes the terminals on the relay and when all else is working well i should replace the pump, right?

as above working r32 window relay (black box) $60 can send a pic if you really want haha 0423456426

hey folks. Can someone tell me please where i can locate the fuel pump relay on my 1998 r34 gtt skyline. My cars up for sale, i've been away working for 4 weeks, came home to get the car runnning and sell it and the battery's ran completely flat and wouldnt take a jump start or any charge when hooked up to a car. I replaced teh battery, but the car woulndt event start or ignition turn on. i figured i'd blown a fuse?? I checked teh fuse box under teh bonnet and yes i 'd blown the 80AMP Altenator Fuse. So off to shops i went and bought one. I fited it with battery disconnected, hooked the battery up again, tried starting it but the engine wont fire up. Plenty of ooomfff in teh starter and battery but it s like its not getting fuel. I cant hear teh fuel pump in teh boot wizz up when i turn the ignition on, i checked the fuses in the drivers foot well, they all looked ok, including the 15amp fuel pump fuse, i checked it has 12v either side also. I removed the fuel hose after the filter in teh engine bay and turned teh engine over, alas, no fuel coming through. now i know its a fuel problem. Now i'm trying to find where to locate the standard fuel pump relay to see if it's that. Can anyone tell me where i can find it and also if anyone has any other ideas on how to get her started id be very gratefull as i have 3 guys coming tonight to look at the car and it not being able to start is guna kill me. also, should i be removing teh back seats and that little pannel which gives you access ontop of teh fuel tank to check for anything?? Getting in from teh boot is impossible as i have a custom $8k sound system installed lol, cheers Gav greatly appreciate a text with advice 0422817158

Hi Does anyone know what indicator relay will work in place of the OEM NILES IF332 for a R33 GTST? Rang Autobarn and they had no idea what other one would work. I am having some issues with mine whereby indicators & hazards stop working randomly. Took the relay off and couple metal bits fell out. Funny that it works for a while and then stops. Also if anyone has an OEM second hand one in Melbourne I would love to buy asap. Its dodgy as hell when this issue starts happening. Thanks Ed

So I was looking around in my boot to figure out how abs abs tcs have been disabled in my car and noticed this relay had been disconnected. Any idea what the disconnected relay does? (someone please tell me connecting it will fix my abs and tcs problem)

What are these relays? R32 GTR Hi folks, can you please tell me what are these 4 blue relays next to the interior fuse box? This is off my 1990 R32 GTR.

Hi 32 GTR drivers side guard black in great condition with all brackets, mounts and badges $260 no dings or previous repairs. 32 GTR Boot lid with N1 carbon lip, genuine spoiler and badges in blue $285 32 GTR door glass rare with no scratches or tint. $140 each 32 GTR Door left and right Blue plus right one in Black. $175 each 32 GTR & GTST drivers side control panel for windows, mirrors, $90 either side Relay $65 motor $80 32 GTR side mirrors $45 each includes wiring 32 GTR tail light in black or white $45 each 32 GTR rear bar in Black $150 32 GTR rear reo $120 Reverse lights $85 Number plate lights $35 • Spitfire made in Japan Less then 5000klm in the box, 100% • Application: o Nissan Skyline GTR R32 R33 RB26DETT o Nissan RB25 RB20 Series 1 o $400 Delivered express post with tracking ID OS Giken 32 GTR twin plate clutch over 90% new with no launches $1000 over 2k new Pickup Brisbane or I can box up for courier quote go to www.e-go.com.au Regards Taylor 0408188777