• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

144 Excellent

About MrStabby

  • Rank
    I dont know what i'm doing all i know is i dont want to stop
  • Birthday 06/01/1970

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Sydney Inner West

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    R32 GTR, NM35 Stag
  • Real Name

Recent Profile Visitors

10,949 profile views
  1. MrStabby

    Yeah probably oil changes are the difference. Timing chain motors seem to be tougher on oil than others. I've found Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 was ready for changing at 5500km, but Mobil 1 0W-40 has been ok for continued use at 8800kms.
  2. MrStabby

    Its written on the black cover, but if you don't have it, its ABS | ABS | IGN SW, so yeah looks like Ignition is gone on yours. IGN is 40A and the two ABSs are 30A. I'd imagine you'd have to get a replacement from nissan. I've never been able to find out what the difference is between a fusible link and a regular fuse, and on my other car i've substituted a fuse where a fusible link was originally... it hasn't blown, but there must be some reason for the distinction.
  3. MrStabby

    Found a disconnected tube *slaps head*. Short term trims now ~12%
  4. MrStabby

    I've had idle issues and noticed that the fuel trims max out (ST +25%, LT+10%) at idle, but look normal at other times. My guess is that i've caused an air leak when I installed Scottys cooling mod, which requires the manifold removal. I did pull the injectors out, so there could be a leak in a bottom seal or two, and i reused the gaskets (which all looked good). Do you guys re-use the gaskets? Anyone know the bottom oring part numbers or the dimensions so i can get non-genuine ones?
  5. MrStabby

    Yes you're right its under the seat - Thanks. There's an opening both sides, and the drivers side has the fuel pump/filter. Replacement wasn't too painful.
  6. MrStabby

    Where do you access the filter/pump assembly from?
  7. MrStabby

    Haven't managed to source decent diag handset yet... New issue is that the ABS often runs constantly after the ignition is off/key removed. A bit of googling suggests this could be due to relay failure. Anyone know where the ABS relays are? Doesn't appear to be an ABS relay on the presentation near the battery. On the R32 GTR they're on the ABS unit itself, but unless they're really small i cant see them being on the M35 unit.
  8. GTRs have a fuel pump control module, not sure about other models. This is what gives the pump low voltage at idle (by supplying ground via a resistor) then full voltage when required. Most take it out of the circuit and provide a simple earth, so the pump sees full voltage all the time, which doesn't seem to be an issue. I think theres a DIY on it - so search. The module is behind the drivers side rear seat side wall trim, but IIRC you can just put a new earth in the wiring in the boot.
  9. MrStabby

    Damn. Anyone in Sydney have the right Consult?
  10. MrStabby

    My ABS warning light comes on a few seconds after engine start. I've checked brake fluid level and fuses. What's next to troubleshoot this? I can read CEL codes but nothing ABS related comes up, however, i guess that may be just a limitation of the software.
  11. MrStabby

    From what I remember about materials science, with all other things being equal, there is a hardness vs toughness trade off. The guy in the video seems to think that hardness is everything, whereas I would have thought the hardest blocks would be the most prone to cracking.
  12. MrStabby

    The 11 in the number will refer to 1.1mm gap, so yeah that big gap would explain the break down under power.
  13. Car runs fine until it gets some boost then I get what sounds like a high tension short. I've got LS2 coils and use the factory boots. Has worked fine in the past. I've replaced plugs, cleaned surfaces etc. Other than getting into a dark dyno room, is there some other way to find which coil is shorting? Maybe dust the area fingerprint style, then look for burnt dust?
  14. MrStabby

    If you're ok with soldering you could try pulling it apart and looking for dry joints to re-solder since that issue has been noticed on other stuff (eg AFMs and the digital clock). Probably easier to just get another tho.
  15. MrStabby

    Only problem with supplying parts yourself is if something goes wrong, its messy. Yeah its pretty hard to go wrong with bushes but I have had some lower control arm bushes fail on me many years ago (what were the light blue ones? IIRC the company went bust).