Jump to content

MrStabby

Members
  • Content Count

    3,640
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Community Reputation

149 Excellent

About MrStabby

  • Rank
    I dont know what i'm doing all i know is i dont want to stop
  • Birthday 06/01/1970

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney Inner West

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    R32 GTR, NM35 Stag
  • Real Name
    Adam

Recent Profile Visitors

11,182 profile views
  1. I've been having trouble with intermittent and broken power windows on the R32. Using the information from https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291360-power-window-stuck-electric-window/?do=findComment&comment=4878899 I found that: most of the problems were resolved by cleaning the switches, the last issue was fixed by re-soldering the relay in the "amplifier". Also the drivers side switch can be opened and fixed too. So, the drivers switch internals; As you can see it has the same problem as the passenger switch shown in the post linked above. That post says "10) STOP! dont try to pry apart the circuit board any further.. as you will break it.. if you look at this picture you can see that due to this whole assembly being screwed down THEN soldered in the nissan factory.. its not possible to remove this, so i just sprayed the cleaner as much as possible inside and re-assembeled everything, i suppose if it got really broken in there you could cut the circuit board to remove those 2 tiny little screws you see in the pic and get in there" I eventually managed to get the assembly apart by removing the screws (the circuit board untouched) then flexing the black plastic. However there was some damage; Perhaps you will have better luck. Anyway that break is not bad enough to cause issues and since the swtich was not usable anyway i figured i had nothing to loose. So after clean up; And, similar to what i found on the passenger side, the switch contacts were badly pitted; So i reversed the orientation of these pieces before reinstalling them, hoping that may help them last a little longer. Now putting the pieces in place; And then carefully lowering the cap back onto the switch, making sure the switch lever points sit in the valleys before pushing it together. The tabs click into place and i left the screws out as the switch is very solidly mounted without them, and they would be very difficult to get back in. After all that, I still had intermittent operation of down on the drivers side window. Up always worked, and up and down always worked on the passenger side. I found that the issue was due to dry joints on the surface mounted relay in what Nissan calls the "power window amplifier". This is a black box mounted under the door trim, occupying the space under the elbow rest/shelf/whatever that's called. Its attached by a metal bracket with two screws into the door shell. To get inside the box, I put some sandpaper on a flat surface then wore away one long edge and the short edge opposite the plug end. The plug end is not bonded to the cap in that end, so now we have three sides of the box that are "free" and can then flex the side open. Sorry - should have taken photos. Once open there is a single circuit board with two surface mounted relays (that is, the relays are soldered directly onto the board). I noticed that two of the joints appeared to have a little carbon around them. From the service manual, the amplifier pin out is; To operate the relays, apply +12v to pin 4, then connect ground to 1 and 2 to drive the relays. The intermittent operation occurred on the relay with the carboned up joints, and those joints didn't look like they'd been soldered well (they should look concave). I applied heat to the solder joints to have the solder re-flow onto the relay pin and board run. Re-checked them by applying voltage and they were now working well. If you want to multimeter test the drivers side switch, facing the switch and labelling pins as Drivers window; 1 & 2 - open circuit, connected on UP and AUTO UP 1 & 3 - open circuit, connected on DOWN and AUTO DOWN 1 & 4 - open circuit, connected on AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN Passenger window; 1 & 7 - connected, open circuit on UP and DOWN 7 & 9 - connected, open circuit on UP 1 & 9 - connected, open circuit on DOWN
  2. Than might have been a lubrication issue. What oil & how old? IIRC the guy from Award used to have a mod to help stop oil slopping to the back of the gearbox. Or if the gears are case hardened perhaps the case hardening was worn through exposing the softer material underneath.
  3. OB link looks nice. What are you using the Pi + 4G for?
  4. About 5 years ago I got a mobile guy to come out and regas the struts in the Stagea tailgate. Still going strong, so a good option of the struts are just weak.
  5. Everyone seem to have gone to 100 cell now, other than this for $374 catco http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/catco-high-flow-metal-race-catalytic-converter-762mm-suit-nissan-rnn14-wc34-p-1597.html what options are there in 200 cell?
  6. My ABS motor runs all the time, and Mr Google says this is due to a failed relay (must fall safe, which is on). I *think* the relay back is on the back of the ABS unit facing the firewall. Is that correct, and if so, do i have to remove the ABS unit to get to the relay pack or can it be removed with the ABS in place?
  7. I had the same symptoms and came the conclusion it was not a bleeding problem after re-filling the viscous clutch and installing a bigger radiator stopped the overheating. If i had realised the viscous clutch was stuffed first, I wouldn't have changed the radiator unless i could confirm I still had overheating. So check if you're viscous clutch is ok first (see the link in my sig). I'm still using the 6000cst fluid - never go around to trying the 3000.
  8. After pulling the turbos on the rb26 i noticed that the dump to front pipe gaskets had been protruding into the flow, because the holes for the studs on the gasket are way too big and therefore cant be relied upon to hold the gasket in a good position. Any tricks to getting a good alignment? I there some way to "glue" the gasket onto the front pipe so it stays in the right position until its bolted up?
  9. A 5 puc clutch like that will be very different to drive compared to a stock clutch. If you want something that feels like a stock clutch and is nice in traffic, but is good for up to 300kws, contact NPC for an organic. http://www.npcperformance.com.au/
  10. Tao - how much to rebuild -7s? When i try to message you it says "hypergear cannot receive messages."
  11. Oh so the balls take the thrust loading too? There is no side to side play, just in & out, so i guess that means the groove the balls run in has worn wider but not deeper.
  12. Is the bleeder valve suggestion so that a pressure gauge can be connected? I thought all the R34-N1s/-7s were ball bearing, or are you referring to the earlier R32 nismos?
  13. Ok - since its all apart now's the ideal time for that.
  14. Could running -7s hard be a reason for excessive EMP? And maybe -9s with their more open turbines would be a more reliable option? EDIT: i guess hooking up a vac gauge on the inlet wont be too hard. I have stock air box and piping.
×
×
  • Create New...