Carbonsky

Good day, So after discovering a coolant leak on my early R32 GTR and replacing the culprit, another leak sprung before I even made it out the garage. After replacing this second hose, another coolant leak from yet a third hose began. Please note, the first hose had a identifiable split but the other two seem to be leaking from around the end/clamp of the hoses. It seems at this point I should order a full hose kit and replace all the hoses in this area. It appears to successfully accomplish this I must remove the intake manifold. If this is indeed the case any suggestions or recommendations on anything I should upgrade or replace with this area exposed. Much appreciated Gents

She's a bit dirty but...

As in that relay could serve as a replacement for the factor flasher relay?

Hello gents, I found a dated thread somewhat related to a similar issue on a R33 regarding hyper flash. I was wondering if anyone knew if the R32 had a similar setup in which a flasher relay was located under the driver dash and could be swapped out for an electronic relay which doesn't require any load to stop hyper flash once led's are introduced into the turn signals. I plan to go leds at all four corners and would like to not have to drop in hot resistors in each corner. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/cf13jl-02-led-bulb-electronic-flasher/783/837/#notab Any advice appreciated!

Old thread I know, but does the 32gtr have a similar set up? I would like to go leds at all for corners but prefer a flasher module versus hot resistors all over.

I just did pretty much what you looking at minus the demon eye. I went with the D2S and led lights in the housing. As stated above I also sourced my D2S projectors from the retrofit source (demon eyes not my thing) everything else I pieced together from eBay. Found some nifty connectors and a tad bit of fab made my own harness to a none forgiving existing hid kit Cut a secured led strip into glass. Back in the oven at 170 for 10-15mins with some additional butyl (also sourced from eBay) and together she went Only thing I'm trying to figure out now is whether I want to tint (left housing) or not (right housing). Turn signals will be smoked so leaning towards a matching look.

Late reply but I had a unfortunate injury and a few surgeries but bouncing back and finishing up this long over due project Not sure if I should go with the tint (on the left) or keep stock look... especially since the corners are going to be smoked

Sorry Nizmo_Man I dropped the ball on this thread. I got side tracked with some other ish, but ultimately end up using epoxy sanding and spray painting the existing housing. Thanks for looking out

Did you have any issues after you cut it out or did you replace it with an aftermarket fuseable link? @Trex

Hey @shaund so as in this diagram the alternator has essentially five wires going on to it. It's appears to tap power from the 75amp fuse coming off the batt. Breaking it down "DA05 & DA20" labeled "A" at the alternator (will have to zoom in) the two wires going in together are the main power leads. The section labeled "L" is the appears to be the main ground. Which leaves "DA09" labeled "S" and the other ground "M" as a connector that plugs into the side of the alternator. I guess my question is, is this the voltage sense you're speaking of or is that the connector for the internal voltage regulator? Or are we saying the same thing just different lingo?

Thanks for the info! @shaundI guess once I have the alternator and battery tested and it's a pass on both it may lead be back to this fluid issue. My only concern is even if I cut, substitute, or replace it may become prevelant again. Hopes were to find someone else that may have experienced a similar to find the likely source, which begs the question. This could be caused by a least two things right. Pressure from fluid at a sensor could be causing fluid to wick throughout the harness or if the fluid is conductive electricity could be walking the dog (pulling fluid) throughout the harness. One more thing I feel I need to add. The substance was not dripping out of the pins of that connector but rather out of the shielding on the outside between wire and loom.

Oil/Coolant substance in Engine Harness If it's not one thing after another. So as I was removing my alternator due to an issue with receiving 18v from my charging system, a puddle of what appeared to be a oil/coolant mix formed next to my head on the floor. Now my car hasn't moved since Aug 12th due to a broken leg (only pulled it forward 8ft out of the garage once after disconnecting the alternator to hang ceiling racks and check voltage). This substance was legit pouring out of a connector (engine harness side not the power steering line) plugged into a power steering hard line directly under the alternator. Any ideas/suggestions as to what could be causing this? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks gents!

Will do. Thanks! @Steve85 Unfortunately I'm about to start another thread due to an issue I discovered while removing the alternator. Check it out please as you may have some good insight and it's always appreciated.

@shaund @Steve85 Due to work, holiday, and projects for the Mrs. I finally got around to disconnecting and removing the alternator. After disconnecting the two 8 gauge power wires behind a 10mm nut and wrapping with sufficient electrical tape I started the car and voltage held at 12.3v (eventually dropped to approx 11.9v, no charging system of course). But no smoke or 18v spike. I continued and removed the alternator and will take it and the battery to an auto shop in hopes to have them benched tested.

Gotcha Thanks! @Trex

Yeah I wonder @KiwiRS4T @89CAL. I cut this out and relocated the battery, to a fused distribution block. Coincidentally now the circuit the lead this thing was on is blowing the fuse. Also found voltage spiking to 18v. Going to test alternator tomorrow but was just curious what this was. Thanks gents

What the heck is this? Does anyone actually know if this (see second pic for actual part ) serves a purpose? It's off the positive lead of the battery.

On the R32 positive terminal OEM looks like this (see pic). Basically there was the 2 gauge (bottom cut in pic) that powered the alternator/starter, then the 8 gauge (next cut wire up) which seemed to power all of the systems under the bonnet (pumps etc) and the top connector 16ish gauge (gray wire) powered the interior. Notice that little gray wire ran into a connector that stepped up to the 8 gauge white wire. So I was replacing my headlamps and as I was removing the battery terminal this little grey wire was barely hanging to life. It was so brittle and barely together. Amazing that with all the driving that I had done this thing was still together. Since it was so brittle I cut it out and kept the 8 gauge as it fit the distribution block pictured in the thread above. So the alt/starter stayed the same size, the second positive lead also stayed the same size 8 gauge, but I cut that 16ish gauge wire and just ran the 8 gauge that you see on the other side of that respective connector. At one point I thought there may have been some resistor in here or something but then after I discovered the voltage spikes I figured it to be irrelevant. @Steve85

@Steve85 any advice is appreciated! I only have one battery, I believe @shaundhas two. I have the normal voltage drop during cranking, it's about 5secs or so after that, that the spike happens (18v) and that circuit (interior) fuse blows. What I will do when I get out of work is remove that wire/circuit from the box pictured above and start the car again and see if the voltage spikes. If it does then something crazy has happened and shorted somewhere (I say crazy due to the fact I haven't touched anything else). If the spike continues I presume I could "coincidentally" have a bad voltage regulator/alternator go out. Or that distribution block is junk, but I did move the circuit over one and the fault (blown fuse) scenario happened wherever I moved it and the other circuits stayed intact. The only thing I did differently than others was remove this (see pic) when I cut the positive leads off the OEM terminals. Don't think this would cause any unstable voltage nonsense though. @Steve85 I don't think all my voltage may be going through that one circuit as I can still start the car after that fuse is blown. I just didn't have the thought to observe if the voltage spike was still occurring after fuse was blown. Basically the equivalent of removing the circuit from the equation.

Thanks for the reply! Any advice is well received. So I have a 250A fuse in the rear right off the battery. This has remained intact and hasn't blown at all. I also right off the battery in the rear have kill switch/circuit breaker on the negative side (to prevent breaking continuously breaking the positive) when disconnecting the battery. This circuit seems fine all way up to this distribution block in the picture where every time the car is started the positive lead that powers the car blows the fuse (60A). My other two circuits starter/alternator and other components remain intact. So I was thinking if it was a short to ground due to that block every fuse in that block would pop as the other two fuses are 80A (starter/alternator and another 60A for the components. So key on engine off all interior and voltage holds at 12.5v clean and no issues. New information! I recorded a video under the bonnet as I started the car and found the voltage display on that distribution block was climbing to 18volts! (see pic). Other weird thing is that the other fuses go dark and the one interior fuse/power stays lit blue until it pops. All things considered first thing I begin to think of is voltage regulator on the alternator or bad battery, but do you think that is could be purely coincidence that one of these has failed in that small window of moving the battery or could I be still dealing with some bad ground or short? Thanks again for your insight.

Man this is a really clean install. I just completed mine but I'm having some serious issues with the power after it leaves the distribution block. Smoked my radio literally and blows the power distribution fuse I have dedicated for interior.

Electrical Issue After Battery Relocation So I've relocated my battery and everything seemed fine key on engine off. Interior systems function with no issues. I attempted to move the car but after about 10 seconds of running my wipers started going crazy (not even switched on) and a cloud of smoke emitted from behind my radio into the cabin. To immediately rule out and prevent wasting anyone time this doesn't appear to be an issue between the battery and distribution block i.e. Short in the long power cable running from the trunk to the front of the car. But where the distribution begins and the power is distributed seems to be the cause. So this is the setup (see pic). I literally cut the three wires off the positive terminal, a 2 gauge, 8 gauge and a 16 gauge (approx) (see pic). The only difference is I cut out the 16 to 8 gauge connector that came from the terminal (see pic). Now this happens to also be the power to all the interior items and looking at the first picture the fuse that's blown. So in conclusion looking at the distribution block (pic 1) this is the only circuit of those three that blows causes my wipers to go crazy and burnt my radio up. Is there a resistor in that connector (see pic 3 again) or could this distribution block be crap? I'll take any and all suggestions please.

@niZmO_Man No; I have yet to install on the car. I'm attempting a few other add-ons while the lamp is still apart. Haven't setup the adhesive just yet. I will definitely add some photos upon install. I hope to maintain factory position by using the OEM bracket. At this point I'm more concerned about fitting the D2S bulb and igniter into the back of the housing. The mini D2S is shorter than the factory projector. I've considered installing the hardware while everything is apart but that still leaves me with the issue of changing a blown bulb in the future.

R32 GTR Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 Retrofit So after numerous ridiculous nights driving without adequate lighting in my R32 Skyline. I decided to do something about it. I reached out to TRS customer support and they began to point me in the right direction. I made a few additional calls to a couple of individuals TRS referred me too as they had completed retrofits on a few R32's as well. After these insightful discussions I boiled it down to going with either the Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 or the Morimoto Mini DS2 4.0. After numerous recommendations I chose the DS2 4.0! I placed my pre-ordered through TRS and waited patiently for these bad boys to come in. As soon as they arrived it was time to get to work. First of all I must say the quality and design of these are incredible, but they weren't going to install themselves. After staring at them for at least 2 hours and surfing numerous forums on previous retrofits it was apparent that I was not getting this done without hacking at my OEM projector. See the DS2 is significantly smaller and shorter than the OEM projector so I would need a bracket to step up to the OEM placement. What better bracket to manipulate than the OEM. I proceeded to cut the OEM housing leaving only the OEM frame. (Never mind the blocks they came later. Forgot to take a pic of the bracket when I first cut it) At this point I lined up the DS2 4.0 and used a punch to mark placement of the screws and created and cardboard template to determine what approach I was going to use to secure. I've seen numerous individuals shave the OEM brackets as thin as possible, trim, drill and separate the new projector to mate in between the fabricated OEM bracket. I chose a different route as I did not want disrupt what I assumed to be a carefully thought out design so I ended up welding blocks (about an 3/4" long and a 1/4"of an inch high) along each corner where I originally marked, then drilled holes, and checked fitment a few times, shaving each block respectively using a small level. Ensuring fitment between bracket and OEM bezel I must say final fitment is incredible! secure and as flush as OEM. Only one issue I caused myself was I forgot to trim the OEM bracket to allow the wiring for the high beam solenoid so I took a Dremel and filed away enough space to allow for the connector to secure into the projector. All in all I'm super stoked and can't wait to install on my vehicle.

R32 Gts headlight (projector) Looking to buy passenger side projector type headlight for R32.