LjB123

Yeah not sure. I sourced another relay no problem, its definitely a relay according to Nissan parts, they used those specific relays on a bunch if cars around that time, but my two options are, find a behind dash wiring loom which is proving difficult, or get the current loom fixed up by the shop when they put my rebuilt engine back in, they are confident in their auto electrical abilities. Thing is my current loom has anti-theft stuff and GPS immobilisers wired into it so easiest option may be to just fix the current one to save ripping apart the immobiliser.

Hey all. Had a bit of a scare today with my R34 GTT when i flicked on the tail/parker lights, and some wiring started going up in smoke under the dash. The fuse didnt blow, it just melted the casing of the fuse so must have been a crap fuse? Previous owner did alot of wiring, some of which is quite sub par and the fuse that melted was definitely newer than the other ones that were in the fuse box, but didnt seem that he touched the wires that mainly got melted. Anyway may need a small section of a new loom, is there lots of similarities between the turbo and non turbo looms especially for under the dash stuff? The wired that got friend go into a 6 pin relay under the dash. The non turbo ones are less than half the price here from a wrecker and all i would need it the section that got fried and any other wires that are affected. Thanks in advance

So ive recently come across an issue on my R34, where no matter what i try do, the fuse pops for “tail lights” whenever i turn the “parker” light on at the indicator/light stalk. I cannot find anything wrong with wiring, and im still kind of unsure how to test continuity to find the issue as i don’t quite know how that circuit is wired. If i stick the multimeter into the earth of the parker on the driver side, i get continuity, on the passenger side i don’t. Putting it into the positive of both sides brings up nothing. I pulled apart the steering wheel surround and disconnected the plugs on the stalk and inspected them, seems all fine there. I cannot for the life of me work it out and its doing my head in, as im trying to get stuff sorted before the car goes off to get the engine back in while im away overseas from next week. I also have the very strange issue that i have been trying to work out for weeks now, when i turn the key to “ON” my dash night time lights, as well as ABS, Airbag and HICAS lights will come on, and stay on when i take the key out. Turbo timer is turned off, and also strangely, the tail lights stay on with it lit. Ive attached a video. Cannot work it out Any help would be greatly appreciated IMG_2901.mov

Did you find the issue for yours?

Bummer, i HATE electrical 😠

Currently have my engine out for a rebuild, and doing some other works on the rest of the car while it sits, like taking the steering wheel off to replace the clock spring and removing the wiring and button the previous owner wired in to the dash to make the horn work. My dash lights like the ABS, AIR BAG, HICAS, etc that come on when you turn accessories on as well as the climate control unit stay on when the ignition is off and key is taken out. Unfortunately Im not sure if this was happening before i pulled the steering wheel off and replaced the clock spring. Is this likely just something with the wiring that will be sorted when the engine is back in and everything wired up? Or could it be something from the wiring under the dash with the ignition? Thanks in advance

Ah man i got no idea how to read those haha theyre so confusing

Nah this has got to be nissan wiring from factory. And the plug type is identical to the plug used on the steering angle sensor for the HICAS

Hey guys. Im replacing my clock spring in my manual R34 GTT as well as rewiring the horn as the previous owner had wired the horn to a button on the dash, and saw this random 4 pin plug with only 2 wires coming out of it just hanging loose (the one in my hand). Was wondering if anyone has any idea what it was/is for? It seems the electrical tape had been cut to move it downward at some point, as it originally would have gone up to the top with the brown plugs for the indicator and wiper stalks. I cannot find ANYTHING it would plug into around it, as it doesnt have much wire to reach too far. Just trying to make sure it isnt something thats supposed to be plugged in, or could be something that is for the auto model of this car and i don’t need it? Thanks in advance!

Yeah fair enough, that’s unfortunate there isnt a 1 way from Nismo as I imagine for majority of people modifying their Skyline it would be a popular choice For me its a weekend street car, driven once a week or for a whole weekend every so often, don’t think i will ever do track days, if anything, would just be a few laps, nothing hectic, should be able to put up with the 1.5

Im not particularly set on anything, dont know a heap on diffs for R34’s and the options, just what i could google and read about on forums like this. Just looking for the best option, as although my diff is ok for now, i would like to change it in the next few months or so as its still completely stock and getting on in age, would rather change it out sooner than have it clunk out later

Yeah might just go down the Nismo route, easier to sort out and my skyline is just a weekender, so doesnt get heavy use. All i can find is the 1.5 way/2 way diff from them that can be changed between the two. Is there one that is 1 way?

Thanks for that. So would the best bet be to just go the Nismo GT Pro setup for a bit of an upgrade? Mainly street use, don’t think i will ever track day it. When doing some research i saw these Kaaz Helical LSD’s, would these be only a direct bolt in with an already helical diff setup? Or are the stub axles etc. all the same just the diff itself vary? https://www.cartel-aus.com/product/kaaz-super-q-lsd-helical-1-5-way-rear-nissan-skyline-er34-25gt-turbo-rb25det-99-02/

Hey guys. Was wondering what the best way to identify the type a diff is? Theres a couple of diffs being sold near me for a R34, and I imagine theyre Viscous just like mine, as the helical are rare from what people say. Whats the best way to identify what exactly they are? Ive attached a photo of one, the other is just a photo of the whole housing, could i look for certain castings or anything to identify it? Unfortunately I don’t know a heap about the physical appearance of diffs and identifying the type visually

Or i just thought i might be able to just have that masked when they respray the bumper, leave it black plastic, sand and fill the indent with plastic filler, then raptor coat that little bit with the letters masked, then it will keep the rough lip with smooth letters that it has going on now and all the dents and deep scratches will be gone, and wont look bad im sure

Any idea what coating would be best to use to paint them again? unfortunately didnt want to paint it, as it is left raw from factory. Might have to just have it masked and sprayed matt black separate to the rest. Might get the whole bit sprayed white, sand back the flat faces and mask up the letters, and paint that bit black to have white "SKYLINE" writing Thanks for your help man

Hey all. Restoring a plastic Altia body kit ive got and spraying it white to match my car, and had a few questions So I have been pulling the mesh grills off, ready for spray painting, and was going to re-coat the grills in Black. The grills are metal, not plastic, as some spots the coating has lifted and i can see theyre metal. It seems the coating on them is some sort of thick rubberised coating with a smooth finish. It’s definitely much thicker than powder coat and has a different texture. Has anyone stripped this sort of part back and re-coated it? What did you use to strip it back and what coating did you go with afterwards? I was going to try and blast it, but not sure if that’s the best option for this kind of coating Also on the black plastic “SKYLINE” section at the bottom, it’s obviously just raw black plastic, unpainted. Unfortunately there is a small scuff on it, what can i do to get that looking nice and remove the scuff? I also have a dent in the rear bar, seems heat has deformed it, i didnt want to just sand it back as the dent may be too deep and cause the plastic to be too thin in that area, how can I shape it back ready to light sand and maybe a little high fill? Lastly, on the rear bar are some “grill” checkered plastic feature bits that are unpainted, and have faded to grey. Whats the best way to restore them to a nice black? thanks heaps in advance!

Hey guys. So my bottom end has a potential issue, engine comes out to drop the sump later this week to see exactly what, has a bit of a knock on cold start up that goes away. My heads were recently done due to a found exhaust valve leak, so upgraded springs and retainers, and upgraded drop in cams while it was out. Heads went back on and we found the bottom end was knocking at high RPM (not very loud as was heard through the knock box and ear muffs) when they were doing a dyno run with the new head on. Car hasnt been started up again since I have the option to purchase a freshly machined and honed RB25DET block, with a R34 GTR RB26 Crank, Nitto rods, nitto oil pump, new head studs, main studs, new main bearings for $3500, will need to get my own pistons though as he used the pistons for his RB25/30 build he ended up doing instead, and has had the built block sitting for a while and wants to clear it out. Block had only been assembled for test fitment of everything, then pulled apart so he could use the Nitto Pistons he had in his RB30 build OR Get my current RB25DET Neo bottom end fixed up, possible machining, new bearings, new rings, etc etc. Wasnt looking to do forged internals but could go down that track Was looking to make 300-350 rwkw for now, maybe 400rwkw, as I do have all supporting mods already outside the engine to go to that power (besides the turbo but will upgrade that while im at it) Will i see much of a difference using the RB26 internals? I know the crank has a longer stroke, what advantages will I see and is it worth just getting the almost-ready-to-drop-in bottom end and going with that, or freshening up my stock Neo bottom end? thanks in advance

I have upgraded cams (tomei poncam type B) and valve springs + retainers so might change the response i get from a .71 housing i was going to go with the external wastegate plumb back kit which bolts right up to a JJR Front pipe, currently have a JJR full dump pipe but a front pope is only $150 to get new, and can sell my dump for $100 or something, less cop attention the better and i reckon i will get over the noise of a screamer pipe after a bit haha

What made you got .63 instead of .71 housing? Just response? Couldnt you push a little more power from a .71 with lower PSI?

Thanks

Thanks. What situation would i need to get a manifold spacer with it?

What turbine housing option was used on this one? What difference would i see between the .63 and .71?

Im looking for around 300-350rwkw, as it is purely a weekend street car, and for now that much power is plenty for some fun, as well as not needing to go into forged internals for reliability.

Yeah i know Kinugawa turbos (made in Taiwan) have bolt ons for RB25’s in the G series turbos. They were my other option i was looking into for a reasonably priced turbo setup along with Hypergear turbos