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LjB123

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Everything posted by LjB123

  1. LjB123
    Hey all. I know there is a plethora of information about Hypergear turbos on these threads, with Tao providing a heap of Dyno results. I was looking at Hypergear's ATR45-SAT (Special application turbocharger) as it will directly bolt on to my existing setup, with some basic fabrication/relocation of some intake piping, and will suffice for my 300-350rwkw power figure I am after with my current setup for street use. Only thing is he doesnt provide any specs from what I can see on the size of the housings, or any sizings of inlets/outlets, which I thought would be basic information you would provide there for your customers to see when deciding to choose your product, like other turbo sellers do. Has anyone got some of their own feedback and dyno results on that specific turbo? Was also looking at Kinugawa turbos that were a direct bolt on, and had heard good things about them, I dont think theyre as popular as they used to be, but has anyone had one recently theyve purchased and used? Any other recommendations with reasoning as to why they went with it?
  2. LjB123
    Cheers man will have a look
  3. LjB123
    True. Whats some good pistons to go with? Was looking at Spool Imports
  4. LjB123
    Reckon its worth getting the $2000 block to use as a base? Issue i have is if someone buys that block within the next 2 weeks before the engine is taken out to check over, im kind of stuffed trying to find another block if my current block is damaged, or the crank is damaged and needs major machining
  5. LjB123
    The budget is whatever to get the car back on the road. I’ve literally owned it for not even 2 months, i just want to enjoy it. I don’t want to do track days, i don’t want to drift it. Its a street car, for me to go on cruises with some friends and enjoy driving it as an R34 has been my dream car since I was a kid and played Need for Speed, and a GTR is out if the budget these days. I don’t want to make monster power, it was making 400hp at the wheels on full boost at one point with the current setup, so would like to get it back to that/close to it, or whatever the tuner recommends as reliable Im booked in with TME Motorsport near me. They identified the leaking exhaust valve for me in the first place during a check over, but didnt have time to do the work and i threw some other workshops / tuners names to him and I ended up going with Elite Motorsport, who organised the head service and upgrades, once the head was back on they identified the slight engine knock and that it was losing power at peak torque. They didnt have time to do the engine work for over a month so went back to TME, they were happy to take the work on in early March, get the engine out, see whats exactly wrong, and work out what we will do
  6. LjB123
    yeah i think the price for the blown head gasket bottom end is worth it. Just get all new bearings and seals, get the piston and rod health checked out, make sure the bore is definitely all good, and go from there with it. There was a private guy selling a complete RB25DET Neo and had compression test from when it was in the car at 160-165 across al cylinders for $5000 but got snatched up pretty quick
  7. LjB123
    Was going to call them today, but would have thought with alot of stock they would have had that advertised
  8. LjB123
    I don’t have a heap of spare time, running my own fabrication and welding business, so getting a shop to do all the work. I know a little about engine building, but wouldnt trust myself with something to this extent do happy to pay someone to do it properly. So reckon the $2000 bottom end from a blown headgasket engine is the go? Atleast that wont need a full clean out of bearing material I believe the N1 is the stock oil pump on the Neo engines anyway. Will definitely do restrictors on it and likely the return drain too while im at it
  9. LjB123
    Good luck finding a complete RB25DET Neo engine
  10. LjB123
    I did mention in a comment you replied to about getting another bottom end for $2000. Also said in other comments since I will be getting a new oil cooler, heater core, probably new lines, new N1 oil pump
  11. LjB123
    I would probably be better off sending the turbo off to one of the local turbo places like GCG or Precision Turbos to get a full clean out. They would definitely be able to do a proper job of it
  12. LjB123
    Thanks for that. How can I test it for hardness? I thought generally you would need a gauge for that and theyre fairly expensive? I'm fine buying a new oil cooler and heater unit, theyre relatively inexpensive. I am close by to a few turbo places like GCG and Precision Turbos who I am happy to get it to them and pay for them to pull apart and clean it our properly, will still be cheaper than a new turbo I imagine, and definitely cheaper than an upgraded one which would require new parts. I'm not after huge power at this point, maybe in a couple years time, but this is just a weekend car for street use. I don't plan on doing any track days, as I barely have spare time for that sort of thing, and want to keep this car for as long as possible. I will look at getting an inline turbo filter. Should I also upgrade the sump and install oil restrictors while im at it? are they worth it? I was going to get a new N1 oil pump, not sure if those are necessary with keeping a stock oil pump or will serve any advantage?
  13. LjB123
    the block I found for $2000 was from a engine that had blown a head gasket, is there a way to tell if there is damage done from the blown head gasket? The seller says the bores are not scored at all and the tolerances at the rod end indicate no spun bearings. I was going to pull the sump off and take a look at it to confirm. Just concerned that the blocks structure could be compromised from a blown head gasket and possible over heating? Or am I overthinking this? I was going to be doing as many new parts as I can like heater core, oil pump, oil cooler, but not sure about the turbo as that is a huge chunk of the expense, and it currently has a high flowed factory turbo and didnt want to go upgrading the turbo just yet as that will mean new manifold, new dump, and likely a whole lot of fabrication work to the intake, and i just want the car running again to enjoy it, as currently its been in the workshop for as long as ive owned the f!@&king thing, but was going to have it cleaned out properly and the shop that will be doing the work is confident in cleaning it all up. But shouldnt the oil filter have caught pretty much all of it?
  14. LjB123
    I found a stock bottom end for $2000 which i might get instead of spending $5000 on a whole engine. No scoring, and crank and pistons feel solid with no play or movement so likely bearings are good in it. He said i can pull the sump off to take a look. Just need to decide do i spend $5000 for a whole engine and i will have basically a whole engine i can modify outside the car for a high power build in the future. RB25DET Neo heads arent getting any easier to find, and likely Nissan wont do the heritage thing they are doing for GTR components
  15. LjB123
    My NEO head has new valves, valve guides, upgraded springs and retainers, upgraded cams, and all new gaskets, i don’t see why it would be a good idea to put in a second hand stock head? Stock valve spring don’t like handling much past 18PSI of boost comfortably, so would be silly to downgrade to a stock head I would think?
  16. LjB123
    You can be fully serviced Neo heads for $3000 online, so don’t think i will quite get $5000 for it. I would probably end up just keeping the head for a worst case scenario down the line, best case is i have a new head to upgrade if something happens to the current one in the future, as i imagine these will get harder and harder to find
  17. LjB123
    Alot of people don’t let others test drive the car, so wasnt a hige alarm bell to me
  18. LjB123
    Owner took me for a drive. He didnt drive it super hard when taking me for a drive. Started fine, ran fine, didnt think much would be wrong with it. When i drove it, it felt powerful, pulled hard when i gave it a boot, despite the turbo coming on fairly late at 4500rpm (owner’s preference). I would have been none the wiser besides the fact i decided to get a local mechanic/tuner to give it a full go over and service. Previous owner seemed legit, he also had an R32 GTR weekend car, didnt drive this one much anymore, was wanting to either get in the market for a R34 GTR, or have some extra money for his wedding later this year, so wanted to sell this. All work had been done 8000kms ago, was pretty much dead stock before, and i can see from his rego history the car was barely driven since he owned it and did all the work
  19. LjB123
    Theyre the kit a mate of mine recommended to get if i go down that track. Appreciate the help, and will keep you guys updated on how it all goes and what happens. Unfortunately i don’t think it will get pulled apart for a couple weeks at this rate with the work load they have on
  20. LjB123
    Well according to the previous owners dyno sheet from when he originally did the build, yes it was 300kw. I never got it dyno’d myself after buying it until the works were done. The tuner its at now said the engine protection is on
  21. LjB123
    Ok thats all good to know. I do believe there are some engine protections in place. The guy the car is with at the moment did say there are some sensors installed and wired in with the ECU to help with engine protection
  22. LjB123
    Appreciate the insight. Thing is new rods, pistons, rings and crank that are forged will set me back about $5-7000 before any labour is involved, not including all the other components I have never experienced driving a 300kw car to be honest. Current mechanic that has it put it on the dyno after the fresh heads were done and reinstalled is the only one whose driven it since the work. Basically when i found out that theres an exhaust valve leak, i didnt start it up except for taking it to get the head work done. Now we have discovered the bottom end is causing issues, i will be towing it from the current mechanic. Im likely switching to a more local mechanic and tuner, just because hes been super helpful to me and initially identified the exhaust valve leaks with a leak down test, only reason i didnt go with them in the first place was because they were super busy getting 3 cars ready for Rally Sprint at Eastern Creek, and i was keen to get my car going again and enjoying it. Now im just left with a whole lot less money and a whole lot of disappointment, not that a different mechanic and tuner would make any difference to how my engine is
  23. LjB123
    Would all that be necessary on a street car that gets driven every couple weekends and 5000kms a year?
  24. LjB123
    Yeah fair enough. Restrictors require drilling and tapping don’t they?
  25. LjB123
    What advantage will the nitto oil pump have over a OEM one? And what advantage will restrictors have? New water pump and timing belt are done, were sorted with the heads that i just had serviced and machined, same with new nitto head gasket and ARP studs. ECU is a haltech platinum
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