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LjB123

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  1. LjB123
    Ive said this to others in reply, but I can get a second hand Neo motor with 180,000kms on it, and 160-170 psi compression on all cylinders for $5000, and can likely sell some parts to make some money back. It came out of a stock R34 and was taken out shortly after he got the car a month or so ago because he had an already built RB ready to go in. Would save some money to swap the bottom end of that over, likely would get some new bearings and other basic parts before it goes in. Unfortunately for me i don’t have heaps of spare time otherwise i would look at doing some work myself. I run a one man fabrication and welding shop and time is precious. The car was meant to be just a weekend car for fun, no track or drift, want to keep it as long as i can as an R34 is my dream car since playing need for speed on my playstation 2. Previous owner had done all supporting mods to make 300kw at the wheels, and now ive done all head work with some upgrades, it will be even better. Not sure on what is the best way to approach this, the car wont get driven heaps, and the hardest driving it will get is on the road, no drifting or silly business except for soms pulls every now and then
  2. LjB123
    Well the cars set up to make 300kw at the wheels comfortably, previous owner has dyno papers for those figures. High flowed turbo, intake plenum, upgraded intake system, injectors, fuel pump, haltech ECU, spitfire coils. Car is my dream car, unfortunately my dream has been a nightmare so far, and is a weekend warrior for just road use cruising and enjoying the drive, with a bit of fun giving it a boot. Would get driven maybe every couple weekends. The head is freshly serviced, machined, new valve guides, replaced 5 valves as needed, upgraded springs and retainers, poncam type B cams, so head is good to go on current motor. As mentioned to others in other replies, I can get a second hand Neo motor with 180,000kms on it, and 160-170 psi compression on all cylinders for $5000, and can likely sell some parts to make some money back. It came out of a stock R34 and was taken out shortly after he got the car a month or so ago because he had an already built RB ready to go in. Would save some money to swap the bottom end of that over, likely would get some new bearings and other basic parts before it goes in. Still not sure what i want to do exactly
  3. LjB123
    I would love to have 300kw at the wheels, it has all the supporting mods for it, and now with a serviced head with some upgrades should be better. I can get a second hand Neo motor with 180,000kms on it, and 160-170 psi compression on all cylinders for $5000, and can likely sell some parts to make some money back. It came out of a stock R34 and was taken out shortly after he got the car a month or so ago because he had an already built RB ready to go in. Would save some money to swap the bottom end of that over, likely would get some new bearings and other basic parts before it goes in. Still not sure what i want to do exactly
  4. LjB123
    Hey guys. Really would love some guidance here, im stuck between a rock and a hard place and makes me sick that ive just had one thing after another go wrong on a car I purchased a month ago. Initially showed an exhaust valve leak from a leak down test, got head off, serviced, machined, replaced a few valves that needed replacing and all the guides, upgraded springs and retainers, upgraded cams to Poncam Type B’s, put it all back together. Popped it on the dyno, made only 180kw at 20PSI of boost. Power dipped at peak torque, so not good. They found it had a slight knock on a cold startup, but went away after a couple seconds. Dropped the oil, and found little bits of metal in the oil and oil filter, great! So bottom end needs some attention now. They didnt want to just replace whats broken, they wanted to go all out forged internals (pistons, rods, rings, crankshaft), get it machined, new oil pump, gaskets, bearings, the lot. Reckon it would come to about $20,000 with a tune after all back together. Im not after a ridiculous build. Its a weekend car to enjoy driving and cruising, im not wanting to make 500kw at the wheels. Reason they wanted to do all new parts is so they could cover their workmanship under their warranty, if something old that wasnt replaced broke, it could become a big thing Can i get some guidance on what I should do here? This is my first time getting into this stuff and the car has just been an absolute shit show from the get go, and makes me sick thinking how ive purchased this car and the engine needs to come out. There were no signs of this from the beginning that it had a bottom end issue, and i have not even driven it 400kms since buying it
  5. LjB123
    It isnt his first car hes tuned and done work on. All he works on is JDM cars, occasionally high end european cars like AMG’s and Lamborghinis, and has good reviews from the people who go through his workshop, as well as others ive spoken to. He has checked the IACV and says theres no issues with that. I mentioned that i took the car to a local tuner/mechanic to look over it, and a compression test was part of it, and that revealed cylinder 5 and 6 had low compression, and when a leak down test was done it had an extreme exhaust valve leak from both cylinders. Not sure what other information you were looking for when asking what original work was required?
  6. LjB123
    It needs a full tune because it now has upgraded cams
  7. LjB123
    They just called and they reckon its now a bottom end issue. So ive had the top fully refurbished with upgrades, now hes saying it could be the rings, or even a rare chance its a bearing. The cylinder walls arent scored and all looks healthy. Such a crap situation
  8. LjB123
    I would have thought theyre competent, they build, work on and tune JDM cars all day every day, including Skylines, they surely cant have made any stupid rookie mistakes. Im already out if pocket $9000 for all the work done, and its worse off than when i started. Atleast the car ran and i could drive it despite the exhaust valve leak. Now its gone backwards
  9. LjB123
    One thing i forgot to add in the original post(will update it), was one issue i had with it, was with the A/C on, when it was a really hot day, and car was warmed up, when the AC belt engaged/disengaged, the revs would drop a little briefly and before the revs picked back up it dropped enough to stall out, also happened occasionally when going from 3rd to 2nd and i did a slow gear change, the revs would drop and engine would stall briefly until i released the clutch and the engine turned over. With A/C off it wouldn’t do that at all. Im just worried, like how could the issues just get so much worse after the engines cracked open and the head serviced and parts upgraded?
  10. LjB123
    Hey guys. So took my car to a local tuner/mechanic to get it looked over, showed low compression cylinders 5 and 6, they did a leak down test, showed exhaust leak was the culprit. Rest of the cylinders were around 160PSI on average. Only issue i had with the car was with the A/C on, when it was a really hot day, and car was warmed up, when the AC belt engaged/disengaged, the revs would drop a little briefly and before the revs picked back up it dropped enough to stall out, also happened occasionally when going from 3rd to 2nd and i did a slow gear change, the revs would drop and engine would stall briefly until i released the clutch and the engine turned over. With A/C off it wouldn’t do that at all. This particular shop unfortunately didnt have the time to do the work for quite a while due to some race events coming up and the cars they were working on for those, so went to another shop that had a bit of a shorter time before i could get in, and had good reviews. They took the heads off, got it machined, serviced, new head studs, new gaskets, upgraded the valve springs and retainers, upgraded the cams, put it all back together. Theyre now getting about 120-130PSI across all cylinders, car really struggles to start up, and is making only 180kw ATW on 20PSI of boost, and previous owner who had all the work/tune done had 300kw ATW when he got a dyno test done Is there something shonky going on? How can the PSI drop so bad across the 4 front cylinders that were ok originally?
  11. LjB123
    Yeah unfortunately. Just hope the damage isnt too bad haha i havent had the car for too long
  12. LjB123
    Didnt want to go for bigger cams. If anything, wanted some drop in Kelfords. Not chasing huge power figures, already has 400hp at the wheels, and don’t wNt to go much more than that, as i want it reliable and a fun street weekend car for cruising around and enjoying No idea why theyre leaking. Recently purchased the car and previous owner didnt even know the compression was bad on two cylinders, he only drove it occasionally, putting only a few thousand Km’s on it the past few years, as he also had a R32 GTR to drive on weekends. Starts up and runs fine
  13. LjB123
    Hey guys. Need to get the head machined, as a leak down test showed some major leaking coming from the exhaust valves in cylinders 5 and 6. Im looking at upgrading the cams, valve springs, and they will replace the usual little bits and pieces as part of a head refurbishment. Any other things I should do while the heads off?
  14. LjB123
    Hey guys, just bought a R34 GT-T. Previous owner had some issues with the steering wheel horn, which I believe he said comes down to the wiring in the steering wheel? He added a small push button on the dash as a horn. I have the “AIR BAG” light constantly flashing on the dash, but he says the airbag was checked and is still functional, just to fix the horn in the steering wheel it would require alot of work or replacing the steering wheel as new which can be pricey. Has anyone else had a similar issue and fixed it?
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