Jump to content
SAU Community

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Members
  • Content Count

    12,178
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    137
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Will chatter and knock on u turns, however if it's too aggressive you can alter the engagement and also add friction modifiers too. A bit of a compromise, but if you want fast lap times, and being able to put power down then you need a proper diff.
  2. Feel free to ignore, but I personally would go smaller if your motor will be sat high in the RPM all the time. I was running a N1 pump, with Spool billet gears on my RB25 NEO and it would fill the cam covers, spit out into the catch can and also drain the 6.5Ln ASR baffled sump around high G corners at the track. Killed my motor after 2x track days.
  3. Another option that tends to work, is to use a 300ZX N/A manual speed sensor with the RB25DET gearbox. Direct fitment (sensor wise) and just snip off the connectors and fit up a Deutsche connector for that added sex spec feel. Not 100% accurate but you're about 5 to 10% slowest than the actual speed. I suppose to you mix/match wheels to game the circumference to get the desired reading.
  4. I don't know why so many shops still use those horrid CNG injectors. It has been proven time and time again, they simply cause more problems then solve. I suggest you give your old man a Samsonas 😂
  5. GT3582 vs GTX3582 Gen 1 and 2 would be very different in response, considering they flow much more air. A GT3582R is rated to about 600hp, a GTX3582R Gen 1 to about 750hp and Gen 2 at 850hp. I know the numbers Garrett advertise are a bit over the top, but you get the general theme. A GTX3071 Gen 2 would hypothetically flow as much as a GT3582 to put things into perspective.
  6. 97% of car owners don't tune their own cars, so they wouldn't need to purchase the cable nor would they need to purchase the software. Their preferred tuning shop would have the required cable and software. The shop license has no limits to the amount of Nistune it can tune.
  7. Depending on your car, you probably don't need to swap anything. I was running a R34 motor and CAS with R33 wiring. Made things a bit more confusing lol. If you've ordered the right kit off NZ Wiring it will be pinned correctly to suit the R34 loom. All you need to do is setup the triggering, arming table, then lock your timing, adjust +/- the TDC offset till it is 100% synced. Then rip skids.
  8. @Tobz sorry about the delay, laptop was flat lol Trigger Arming Voltages Below Trigger Settings, Note the offset is a bit cooked, but it works and even Geoff from NZ Wiring said what I did was ok
  9. When you've binned your car and one wheel/hub is completely seized but you want to try drive it back to the pits.
  10. Since you're that far already, why not pop in new valve springs, valve stem seals & cams with higher lift/bit more duration. And..... might as well put in a Samsonas.
  11. Depends on which cam is selected. + I definitely can say my 2 way KAAZ looks like this (actual photo of my diff) and my mate's 1.5 way looks like the below (not his photo)
  12. Turns out Haltech Support was a bit confused and told me to supply +12V to the reluctor and feed it back to the trigger input. Geoff from NZ Wiring actually was right from the start. You don't use the +12v at all, as the reluctor itself generates a voltage. So all you need to do is use the Trigger PIN & Sensor GND. Both Home signal & +12V are not connected/used. The arming voltage table given to you by Geoff at NZ Wiring "should" be able to get the car started, however I found that increasing the values a bit reduced the trigger count errors. I'll get a screenshot of it soon
  13. Time attack/track work I would personally go with a 1/1.5 way only. I have a 2 way KAAZ LSD and I can say that driving my friend's car with a 1.5 way around a technical track, it's actually faster than mine with a 2 way.
  14. Convert to twin scroll, also I would go GTX3576R Gen 2 over the GTX3076R Gen 2. FWIW I was running a GTX3576R Gen 2, twin scroll albeit with a 1.01 rear housing and it was all in by 4300rpm~4400rpm with a smaller 2.5L motor at 2bar of boost (29psi).
  15. I must say, when looking back at it, doing head studs/nuts with the motor still in the car is quite amusing as you're in an awkward position! Doing it on an engine stand, right next to you feels more natural.
  16. You skip a few heart beats when it makes these creaking noises too haha
  17. @MoMnDadGTR we have Penrite 10 Tenths Racing here in Australia, high in zinc for limiter bashing goodness and 3rd gear burnouts at baby gender reveals.
  18. I did drive mine at the settings PRP recommended for a period, then the last time I was tuning my car, Alex at Birrong had a look at my map and told me there's simply no need to run that much dwell in the coils. Told me to drop it sub 3ms at 14v. No misfire either with 2 bar of boost.
  19. If you were to pay $500USD for a PowerFC, I would rather direct that money towards a Nistune, a MAC valve and a flex sensor. You might even have money left over for a slab of beer.
×
×
  • Create New...