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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Tried to start the car, starter motor died LOL... Starter was moving super slow, we tried adding a jumper pack, starter motor got ripping hot and then it stopped moving completely and just clicked only lol. Waiting for a reconditioned one now
  2. The final piece before 1st start 😎 ATI don't have an off the shelf RB25DET balancer, so HiOctane made a pulley to fit. Might even start the car today 🚤 (Yes radiator isolating rubbers will be installed lol)
  3. Interesting however those switches need an Ethernet run to them. https://www.lifx.com.au/products/smart-switch-4-gang The above runs off WiFi and conveniently I already have A/N/E where the switches are LOL.
  4. Since you're changing the slave and rebleeding the entire system - might as well piss off that clutch loop line/damper.
  5. Yep pretty much this! Oh wells at least one thing sorted and I also installed the Google Nest smoke & CO alarm too! Might get another one for upstairs. After that, will think about some home automation - do have a few of the Arlec Grid connect bulbs I use in the staircase & garage lights but might go with all the lights in the house at some stage too.
  6. you should be able to, remove the slave, remove the rubber and you should be able to stuff those small cameras in there to have a look.
  7. I think you may have massive air pockets in the damper (the loop next to the chassis rail). Do you have a hand vacuum pump? that might help get fluid down. Or like the others mentioned, snapped pivot or snapped fork (can happen with super strong pressure plates).
  8. Delete the damper line/loop, run a braided line from master to slave.
  9. You'll be cycling gears like a mad man, like a truck. For a 400kW setup (as you've indicated) I would say a 4.3 with a CD009 is a terrible idea.
  10. CD009 with a 4.3 diff is just silly, even with a 4.11 diff it's just silly. I would be finding a S15 diff at 3.69 for the CD009 OR a S15 Auto diff at 3.9
  11. If didn't care about being compliant, etc. I would have crimp and dual wall heatshrunk the lot lol... but need to stick to standards to avoid issues in future.
  12. Generally you use twin core from the light source down to the switch to break the circuit, all other places we've been at have been like this. This is the first time I've seen A/N/E at the light switch. Disclaimer: I'm not a sparky by trade but I've done electrical engineer courses during my IT course at uni for fun. Also I probably do neater and more reliable wiring than most sparkies, alarm installers and trailer experts lol. I've got the entire OC document deck when I bought the house, the sparky signed off his on work (self certified) and a private certified signed off on the lot for the OC. I am tempted to take further action - however what will that result in? just more headaches, heaps of random people going in/out of my house disturbing my wife and kid. So, weighed out that cluster f**k and replaced all the shitty solder/tape jobs with screw down connectors and trimmed wires to length then called it a day.
  13. It's at every single light switch too! Trust me, I wasn't very happy seeing the level of horseshit wiring, but this is what you get buying a brand new house off a property developer. Saving $0.13 per screw connector is top priority for some it seems.
  14. Man haven't done a house update aye, so here's a good find. Brand new house, blah blah blah. I went to change a light switch and I found these Easter eggs (many, actually all the light switches were like this). Brills.... anyhow ordered a bunch of screw connectors to fix up this fcvk up. Building industry, full of cnvts.
  15. This would be perfect for you, twin scroll manifold, with the scroll split to the gate seat https://www.sincocustoms.com/shop/product/209348/rb20-or-rb25-t4-twin-scroll--turbo-manifold/ Then next logical step is to get a T4 TS turbine housing and come back to tell us it is all in by 4000RPM
  16. Or just run E85 and don't bother with WMI because most of us aren't really competing in WTAC or Texas miles (Australia doesn't even have anything close to that length that's a race prepped surface).
  17. LOL... jesus... Yeah not having the flex sensor is just like having a straight E85 tune and pouring in 98. Great way to wash the bores and foul your plugs. Too bad you're not from the hood - would happily show you things in person on the dyno.
  18. it might be hidden in a 3rd dimension somewhere, I generally just use the compensation table to do E85 How I like to do it, however MoTec guys like to use a 3rd dimension in their main ignition table How MoTec tuners like to do it (note the slider at the bottom), also what you see there is my 98 map, although the slider is dragged to E80 - it's because I use the compensation tables instead
  19. If you're runinng E85 however, you really need to cock it up big time to register any form of knock. Put it this way, if you ever manage to generate any kind of knock on E85 then you have bigger problems! On E85 you could keep pumping in timing, literally fall face down with power and still it won't knock! Going past MBT and the motor will be fine (I'm a bit guilty of this, I will add timing till I see a loss in power and i know it's good to stop LOLOLOL)
  20. Also I can nearly guarantee you 9 our of 10 workshops never bother to fully dial in the fuel density table. I got this data from interpolating BP 98 data and ethanol density from an EVO forum. Sure it might not be accurate but it's better than having the same fuel density across the board for ethanol percentage and temperature. Feel free to copy, however please note if your car as been tuned around a static fuel density, adding this in will affect your tune!
  21. Whoops sorry, totally missed this thread. If it's not setup you won't see it enabled - easiest way is to hit F4 then go into Functions, then search for it. It would be under Knock Control (knock detection needs to be enabled first). Once enabled you will see it appear up in the functions list. Using a knock calculator, such as this one for a stock motor the ~ frequency is 6700kHz for a slighter bigger bore 6600kHz (of course this is an implied frequency based on the diameter of the piston (doesn't factor in recessed areas, etc.) https://phormula.com/knock-frequency-calculator/ Also, there's nothing wrong with using an SPI for temperature, it works perfectly fine provided you have the correct sensor data loaded up. I have mine like this (just because I ran out of inputs lol) Yes, plenty of workshops don't bother with the small nitty gritty - they just focus on the dyno graph and the peak power. Also, there's a high chance that "professional" just used a working map from a GT-R to use on your car, at the same time forgetting to enable VCT, etc. No one ever starts from "scratch" as they say. When I tune cars for mates, I always tell them upfront I will be using XYZ map I made before for ABC car.
  22. but the colder the air, the denser it is, the more fuel you need to keep it at your target AFR and that means more power Still plenty of gains to run E85 to increase your knock threashold and water/meth to chemically further cool down your compressed air. For any street car that is more than overkill - you would only see this kind of setup in a serious competition car for WTAC or big 1/2 or 1 mile drag races, etc.
  23. FWIW I have an older, albeit larger GTX3576 Gen 2 with a 1.01 divided housing and all 2bar comes in before 4500RPM on a 2.5L RB25DET NEO with 260/9.15 cams. I believe your CX Racing manifold and turbine housing are to blame, also @Lithium's suggestion of the fire ring not installed properly OR missing altogether could be a contributing factor.
  24. Your manifold and an open housing turbing housing would be the culprit here, also is your VCT runing still?
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