Dose Pipe Sutututu

This! @Duncan can you please edit my 2x previous posts to say B1 (just incase someone reads it and gets confused)

I think so, I'll have a look when I'm home later. I wrote a post on the now defunct Haltech forum detailing this, very useful they deleted it lol.

Looks like the connector itself on the trigger kit is pinned funny. Make sure you're not wired to the +12V, it should be sensor GND and back to B1 on the Elite 2500 (need to find the post I wrote years ago).

Much better graph! Battery voltage wise, seems a bit on the low ish side but not terrible. Would be nicer of it had a delta of 0.2V instead of 0.5V Maybe try add in an earth strap between the motor and chassis and check to see if the power cable from alternator to fuse/relay box hasn't degraded

Just proves thick anti roll bars all round are shit 🙃 God forbid I tell people that.

being a R33, just bridge / delete the resistor pack next to the power antenna, done.

Pretty much, once the car is running, check it again (with the engine running) That's for a Link, I can't recall the reasoning, however if you take 97 and minus it from 720 you get 623 degrees

That kit is similar to the NZ Wiring Trigger kit, this is what I have for mine (your offset might be a little different as the plate, as I'm sure each manufacturer has it a little different) I do have the filter slightly high, might drop it

you would hope ECU voltage & battery voltage would be the same

Maybe go log your voltage vs. RPM as you doodling around town. The issue could be your alternator is cactus which has been supplying fluctuating voltage to the rest of your car thus killing your pump early.

One thing I do like about innovate is their ability to simulate a narrowband O2 output, great for deleting the OEM O2 and feeding that 0-1V simulated voltage back to the stock ECU. Great for PowerFC users, Nistune users that do not have the luxury of ingesting wideband 02 data. And before anyone says "yOu doN't nEEd O2 fEEdbACk iF yOUR tUNe is goOd" can GTFO.

Anything but Innovate, their heater circuit strategy is terrible so you end up torching wideband sensors (not too sure if this is still the case, but those MTX-L ones were notorious for eating sensors). Or if you're already on the Haltech ecosystem, their canbus wideband kits are a no brainer. Sending data via canbus not a 0-5V range to the ECU not to mention if the sensor does die, just buy a Bosch LSU sensor and wire it back in, simples.

please don't do this, worse advice! Just go for a normal drive, then eventually start to introduce load - don't be shy. Fuel Feed -> Fuel Filter -> Rail -> FPR -> (I think your car has an OEM dampener) -> Return to tank

you would be with the boost coming in hard & fast, do you run a proper LSD in the back? If not, time to invest in a proper LSD. The viscous one is terrible for putting power down or doing anything motorsport related.

You'll find motors that foul plugs quickly aren't because of running rich on boost but rather the rest of the MAP (vacuum to atmospheric) is garbage and/or the O2 feedback strategy is either disabled or is utter horse shit. If you're not cruising and idling at stoich, but rather rich, you'll be going through spark plugs faster.

Put a wideband O2 on your car, extremely valuable data. Stops the guessing & assumptions.

Dead stock tune, if you slap a wideband O2 on them, you'll see it hits high 10s. Black smoke is fine, keeps things cool.

ever seen a stock Evo with a 4G63T and just a high flow cat & cat back on boost? It's a smoke screen!

Hence they rather copy / paste a tune with similar mods from a previous car as a base, not to mention all the tables are scaled how the tuner likes it. And in the odd event, the car has like for like mods as the file they have on hand, even better! Means less work. I once did 2x S15s with GTX2867R turbos, same 980cc injectors, one had Procams & broken VTC, one had Poncams and working VTC. Did I start from scratch? hell no.

Why? They will still charge you for a full tune.

Yes, here's a scenario. Say your original tune by Tuner A has been done, with the wrong injector data, wrong sensor scaling, base timing not synced properly. Tuner B then hops on, fixes up the cock ups and now realises the fuel table & timing tables are pretty much invalid. Easier for them to copy and paste a known working tune from a similar car they've done in the past with similar mods, then tune/calibrate accordingly

I am, however I "believe" (not 100% sure) that the RB25 returns the turbo water line there too, that branch then flows into the heater core. I've had it plumbed like than before with the old motor, and also this motor (same turbo) and it hasn't seized yet lol. And yes, using that RB26 fitting seems very counter intuitive as you're going opposite to the flow. However you would assume there's higher pressure coming out of the turbo due to the pipe size, heat etc. I might need to revisit the service manual.

Like all the AMGs around where I live, 100k+ car, Bing Bong tyres on them.

Anyone seen my rich long lost biological parents? If so, tell them I wouldn't mind my mortgage paid off and a M3 Wagon as a way to ask for forgiveness 🤣 I'll even give, in return a R33 Skyline (that may or may not work).

Probably telling you to get BKR6ES Easier to get BCPR6ES or 7 is you're making moderate power. Been using them for years in my own car, other people's cars. I might be wrong, however those cars work well and have no issues. As a matter of fact, a S15 I helped build and tune did a 1m46s at SMSP last night on sticky street tyres.