Dose Pipe Sutututu

Why? They will still charge you for a full tune.

Yes, here's a scenario. Say your original tune by Tuner A has been done, with the wrong injector data, wrong sensor scaling, base timing not synced properly. Tuner B then hops on, fixes up the cock ups and now realises the fuel table & timing tables are pretty much invalid. Easier for them to copy and paste a known working tune from a similar car they've done in the past with similar mods, then tune/calibrate accordingly

I am, however I "believe" (not 100% sure) that the RB25 returns the turbo water line there too, that branch then flows into the heater core. I've had it plumbed like than before with the old motor, and also this motor (same turbo) and it hasn't seized yet lol. And yes, using that RB26 fitting seems very counter intuitive as you're going opposite to the flow. However you would assume there's higher pressure coming out of the turbo due to the pipe size, heat etc. I might need to revisit the service manual.

Like all the AMGs around where I live, 100k+ car, Bing Bong tyres on them.

Anyone seen my rich long lost biological parents? If so, tell them I wouldn't mind my mortgage paid off and a M3 Wagon as a way to ask for forgiveness 🤣 I'll even give, in return a R33 Skyline (that may or may not work).

Probably telling you to get BKR6ES Easier to get BCPR6ES or 7 is you're making moderate power. Been using them for years in my own car, other people's cars. I might be wrong, however those cars work well and have no issues. As a matter of fact, a S15 I helped build and tune did a 1m46s at SMSP last night on sticky street tyres.

Had a brief spare 10 mins spare in my life, went to compress up the coolant system (thanks to my mates gear) and found the leak pretty quick. It's that stupid short joiner between the block and coolant branch that goes to the turbo return. So I'm going to simplify that area and use a R33 RB26 piece, which does the same thing without the unnecessary complications And yeah before someone goes why don't you buy/install the Boost Doc heater line kit, yeah cost perspective it's like 5x the price of buying new hoses and a new OEM fitting. If the hoses lasted 28 years, then I'm sure brand new OEM ones will do another 28 years 🥲 Will also delete the hardlines that runs underneath the plenum and simplify that too. It has a RB26 so there are a few branches that are blocked off as the plenum doesn't need those hoses and not to mention the car doesn't run a heat and oil/water exchanger anymore.

98RON for 199.9c, going to be as cheap as it gets for a while I think. Yep, 118L into the Tiguan and 3x jerry cans lol.

But but but... It's when I know it's time to change gears or reached my desired max speed in 4th (as I'm still using the factory dash lol).

Yeah sometimes boring is what is needed, so my bank account doesn't bleed from stupid repairs and my head won't hurt from arguing with stupid people at VW head office. In other news, Andy from Adaptronic / Haltech explains the MAP Prediction and Fuel Film / Pooling in detail. Makes much more sense now and it's good to know it takes the higher value out of the two fuel tables not just the MAP prediction table during a transient event. I was a bit concerned it would take that off boost value on the table when the car is on song.

Nice bit of kit, if that existed before I would have done the same.

Has crossed my mind, just the styling I'm not keen on. The front grill is like a large grater lol

Lol... Very Honda of you.

cooling looks good now!

100% Hence with these shit box RB motors, you need to vent the crank case by venting the sump into a catch can and also draining back to it. I've done just that, and have not had any oiling issues on the track since.

Another question, is that hose even big enough? Not sure if that's a built motor, running big boost, but if so it's going to breathe heavily. There's a reason you see many modern RBs with huge catch cans, returned back to the sump (heavy breathing and oil buildup in the head, etc.)

Took off the starter motor during my lunch break, fk it's a cnut with the Plazmaman plenum & all the fuel equipment (regulator, fuel filter, external fuel dampener) in the way. That's enough work for this month on the car. Back to pushing buttons on a keyboard.

Wiring and plumbing on his car exceeds the quality and standard of American built spaceships & rockets. Step aside milspec, it's rocketSpec

Space X, NASA collaboration R33

FWIW I run an ATI R33 RB26 balancer on my car, however with this RB25 PS pulley from Hi Octane Racing. https://www.hioctanedirect.com/Hi-Octane-Racing-R33-GTST-ATI-Power-Steering-Pulley-SUIT-750-HP-Balancer

What in the fking world? You could have bought another Skyline with that kind of money back then 😅 It's like they encouraged you to drink your sorrows away and always have a 6 pack in hand to maintain your drunkenness

Because it is, I have calculated gear too. Only time it shows the wrong gear is when the clutch slips lol.

Come do my car

I agree with you there, I still don't understand why they extended the car loan via Europcar for 1.5 weeks whilst they faffed about and deciding if they are to waive the labour or not. $469 vs. 1.5 weeks of car hire, I think paying the labour costs would have been cheaper for them, but shit for brains at head office chose the latter. Looking at RRP rates for a comparable car is $96 per day, so 11 days is $1056, let's say they get corporate rates at 40% off (wild assumption here) that would mean it's costing them $633, which is still more than the labour costs. Makes no sense right? Lol.

just this and roughly in the centre, once the car is running you can adjust the CAS to hit the required base timing (if you're ever using an aftermarket ECU, do not do this as you can offset in the ECU and/or the factory procedure will not work).