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Shoota_77 last won the day on June 30

Shoota_77 had the most liked content!

About Shoota_77

  • Birthday 11/21/1977

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    Datsun 1200 Utes.

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    R33 GT-R V Spec RB30/26
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  1. But I think the boys above would rather see you beat it off. I think lockdown has got to everyone this time around......
  2. Any local parts store will have a steering wheel specific or 3 arm puller. You may need to buy some longer metric bolts depending on what you have to screw it into on the boss kit.
  3. Did I know you were ex Shepp?? I can't remember knowing that! 🤣 You're a better at Sheppresent than me, you get shit done!
  4. Man it must be amazing to see a brand spanking new paint job on a GT-R!! Would be the final piece of the puzzle to make it feel like a new car all over again! Your dad is a legend for being into them and you for helping him! Great to see.
  5. Brilliant @BK! Can't argue with that crystal clear logic! I feel a whole smarter for having read it! 😁
  6. $70 posted from a guy on Facebook. Very much a bolt in thing with only minor mods required.
  7. Yeah they do look good. I think I'll support Aussie made though and go with the Frenchy's setup. I'll most likely decide at the last minute when I actually go to buy it! I have a tendency of changing my mind at the last minute! Cheers.
  8. 2 factors at play here. Firstly the hose looks like it’s too big for the barb on the regulator. Secondly those are junk hose clamps and it is too big for that size hose. Get a smaller clamp. Cut the swollen end of the hose off and start fresh if there is enough slack in the hose.
  9. Fu(# you winter!!!! That bad boy should heat things up a bit! At $450 I couldn't refuse. I've got a pot belly but by the time to fire it up and the heat eventually radiates through the metal you're an hour in and over shivering! This thing it was comfy in 10 minutes and jumper off in 20! Bought a little offcut (2400×1200) of aluminium to practice welding on.... Chopped up a few (heap) of coupons to get started with. Just need to tidy them up then get tiggin. Having a few issues getting my girdle machined down to suit the PRP brace. I think I'm in the too hard basket at the machinists. Like everyone at the moment they're flat stick and prioritising the low hanging fruit. I'm lofty fruit at the top of the tree me thinks.... Ah well, been busy motorbike riding plus building bunks for the kids in the caravan so not short on jobs to do... The motivation dissipation is the biggest worry.
  10. You would only replace the pistons if they were all rusty, scored or generally just worn out. I've done some pretty old calipers and NEVER replaced pistons. Seeing brake fluid is sort of an oil it generally keeps the bit that matters on the piston free of rust. The only exception is if the brake fluid on the car has never been replaced and has sucked up a heap of water (brake fluid is hygroscopic and sucks moisture out of the air over time or if the cap has been left off the reservoir). That's the main reason you replace the fluid regularly - water gets in brake fluid, water boils, creates hydrogen/oxygens which obviously being gasses compress unlike liquid which in turn gives you a shitty (spongey) pedal feel.
  11. There may be slight variations to these but should be enough info in here to get you going- Very easy to find seal kits. That’s all you need. Just reco any pins and bolts. Torque settings - tight! I’d imagine the bolts hooding the two halves are around the 30-35 Nm mark.
  12. Yeah the way I look at it, it shouldn't cause dramas to block it as the system is designed to hold a high amount of pressure once the diff has been "active"-ated. It's a high pressure activated system so it really shouldn't make a difference whether the pressure limit is reached at the fitting on the pump when blocked off or in the hose that attaches to the diff to activate it under normal circumstances.
  13. Hi guys, searched all of the topics but can't find anything about what people do with the hydraulic hoses when removing the Active LSD from an R33 GT-R (or factory optioned GTS-T)? My thoughts would be just to replace the banjo fitting with a "blank" which could be machined up or just whack an AN outlet banjo on it and whack a cap on it. Has anyone done the removal and have any tips on how they went about it? Thanks. EDIT - I did find these photos from R31Nismoid (had plenty of keyboard warrior battles with him over the years...) where he did it and looks like just banjo blanks blocking it off- Will look into that a bit more when I go to do the change over.
  14. 100% justifies the asking price…. Makes me want to enquire to find out more. It really got the juices flowing!
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