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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Thanks @Duncan let's see how I go next week. For good measure, just happened again. Daily occurrence 🥲 Will get it fixed and wait till the Minister of War & Finance is back to work so we have more cash flow instead of torching our savings before we buy a new shit box (won't be a Nissan, soz).
  2. I hope so, hope being loyal to the stealership has some positive(s). Shitbox has been exclusively serviced by VW, even though I could do it myself for heaps less.
  3. That makes it 2x broken cars at home. Both kind of work, one leaks coolant when warm one skips 1,3,5,7 gears when warm. Lol.
  4. Don't let @GTSBoy see that seatbelt being used to transport the motor around lolololol.
  5. I still apply a slight damper on it, so it's not so sensitive, which I assume most don't.
  6. AC idle? no worries AC idle & big brap cams? no worries no hunting or stalling at the lights, etc. cold starts, warm starts, etc. so good! I don't get the whole dBw iS sLOw brigade, they clearly don't know anything!
  7. Wish you did it sooner aye? How good is the idle control now? Not to mention the superior throttle control.
  8. Year of the Dragon, relax brah shit will get done and you'll be chopping cars with Borg Warner turbo(s).
  9. Double check with the guys at HFM, might be because they're using different rotors. Regardless, you can adapt the rear Brembos, that's the main point.
  10. @Pete Hoek looks good! Yeah the rears don't fit straight on, however HFM make a bracket to adapt the rear 350Z Brembos onto S/R chassis cars. They just released it too, so you're in luck! https://www.hfm.parts/shop/brakes/rear-brakes/340mm-rear-rotor-caliper-adaptor-s-r-chassis/
  11. Way cheap! Hope you get that full amount and not a dollar less.
  12. Nah mine is at 6700, best switch over when I over laid 2x runs with VCT on and off.
  13. FWIW, Tao from Hypergear made over 500kW at the rear hubs with a stock plenum/intake manifold. I've done 407kW at the rear wheels with a stock plenum/intake manifold. Moving to a sexy looking Plazmaman plenum, I've a bit of boost response down low. Could make 1bar by 4100rpm before now it's about 4400rpm.
  14. provided the you've work out the centre of the rack and positioned the wheel in the centre, then everything else is dependent on the alignment. (Not sure this is the correct way, but this is how I've done it with my own cars) Measure equal amounts of the exposed rack, this would be the centre. Now note where the wheel is in the car, and remove/adjust the steering wheel so it's also centred. I find with these old shit boxes, steering wheels have be removed, replaced, then returned back to factory for compliance reasons and/or previous owners have stuffed with them OR worse, cars have been binned into gutters so now the car "drives" straight with the wheel pointing in the wrong direction so people remove and re-centre wheels so it's perceived as centred.
  15. Have you tried a new CAS? torque going flat, then requiring massive amounts of duty cycle to close the gate leads me to believe your timing is all over the shop. Perhaps try to do a quick load hold and see if shit glows OR if your tuner is game hold a timing light on your balancer with the car loaded up (easier on a hub dyno, a bit scary on a roller) to see what the actual timing is. Another thought, post up your dyno pull ECU logs, sometimes you might have some weird sensor (like IAT doing weird shit) and there's an ignition compensation being applied and pulling out shit tons of timing. Another thought, valve float?
  16. I've done the whole gear thing,the problem with gears is that your slapping it into an old housing that's worn and/or out of spec and it causes more issues than it solves Sure, buy a new OEM oil pump and slap in gears (I also did that 2nd time round), but why? You're already 3/4 of the way to a new Nitto pump (which I did with my 2nd built motor). TL;DR buy a Nitto pump.
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