Dose Pipe Sutututu

What I suggest doesn't have a 40° delta and won't have all your lurching, idle hunting issues. Not to mention it's how most shops do it too. So yes on theory your method "works" however once it goes into that hunt it takes much longer to settle as the PID idle strategy is working off it's tits to try target the set RPM.

Does it pass the pub test? Yeah nah.

Ain't that the truth. I tried to save money, got my 1st motor built by a small "Facebook accredited" workshop, motor blew up in 2x track days. 2nd motor, took it to Birrong Automotive and it's seen 6 solid track days and not a single issue, except frying the clutch.

Unfortunately effort gone to waste, you will have substantial issues with how the manifold and wastegate have been integrated. You would be so much better off with a modified stock manifold like this: https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25detexgatedmanifold/ OR literally just getting a off the shelf Sinco or 6Boost manifold as myself and others have mentioned.

They sure do, great for when you need to chuck a sickie 😅 You should definitely give the beast a squirt on the track, great to enjoy the car

or poor dump/down pipes with no support and no bellows / flex pipes installed

Not mention a SS2 especially with that rear oddly small rear housing. I feel the Facebook mechanics and experts has led OP in the wrong direction.

We should do a cheeky Luddenham track day mid week. Fun, low stress, low time commitment

@soviet_merlin note how this is a twin scroll manifold and the "fabricator" has tried to make it a merge however I'm not sure he/she/it did very well at school and understand how gas/fluids flow. And why re-invent the wheel? manifolds like these exist, and the merge is great, not to mention the pulses are split all the way to the wastegate's fire ring:

Jesus..... You're going to have heaps of boost control issues with that exhaust manifold.

You're still alive @WARLORD !

That's why it's lurching, idling shit, and stalled 7 times. Your approach is not ideal, it's literally idle hunting. Let's say your normal idle timing is 20° You would approach the idle timing table like this 800rpm 20° 900rpm 20° 950rpm 0° 1000rpm 20° So when your car hits the 950rpm cell, there isn't enough torque so it falls down to the 900rpm cell which has enough timing to produce the torque to reach the idle target again. Then you'll need to dumb down the PID for the idle control motor to essentially ignore the 950rpm cell. There's an art to great braps, when you don't have the option to advance an intake cam at idle. @GTSBoy going to be real mad 🤣

Best chop idle FTW, just add an idle timing hole lol

Would it not be cheaper to just spray nitrous?

LOL.... fk... there goes 25K to make 200kW

Maximum Attack has entered the chat

Remember when those donkeys kept using freedom units and smashed that satellite to bits on the moon? NASA has their brain switched on and uses the metric system.

Is the UP Garage in the US of Ayyeee even the real UP Garage?

Unplug your stock O2, does the problem go away?

If it's for a SR20, make sure it's not the American Poncams, might as well call them Poocams. Had a set in a friend's car, all scuffed up after a few track days. Like the metallurgy Tomei USA used is junk. Went back to JDM OG Tomei Poncams, no issues till now. Tomei USA is not the real OG Tomei. Random rant over, fk the US of A, bunch of c u n t s.

btw... here's a fun quote I got back in the day (using a NEO head and going shimless): a bit different initial requirement

You can definitely do 450kW on the RB25 non-NEO head, plenty have. The $600 to $800 conversion will end up costing you much more I suspect, I believe you will require machining. NEO head has the lowest barrier to entry. My 2c? buy a BMW 😆

No more 90s JDMs for me, just want 4 door cars that won't attract cops. Wouldn't mind a Hako or a 240Z all motor but modernised (big comp, big cams, ABS, DBW, dis dat).

Win win! Here's a wild idea @Yeetus, come to my doorstep with either $60K or a F80 M3 and take my car away from me. It could rev to 9000rpm but I would recommend putting in beehive springs.

And this is where a M2 or M4 makes sense.