Dose Pipe Sutututu

You can definitely do 450kW on the RB25 non-NEO head, plenty have. The $600 to $800 conversion will end up costing you much more I suspect, I believe you will require machining. NEO head has the lowest barrier to entry. My 2c? buy a BMW 😆

No more 90s JDMs for me, just want 4 door cars that won't attract cops. Wouldn't mind a Hako or a 240Z all motor but modernised (big comp, big cams, ABS, DBW, dis dat).

Win win! Here's a wild idea @Yeetus, come to my doorstep with either $60K or a F80 M3 and take my car away from me. It could rev to 9000rpm but I would recommend putting in beehive springs.

And this is where a M2 or M4 makes sense.

Cheapest option, find a NEO head. Put in good springs, decent cams, and send it to the moon. I rev mine to 8600RPM, gets me about 232km/h down the main straight at SMSP bouncing off the limiter in 4th. I've never dared to grab 5th 🥲

That's heaps low tbh Is your oil pump factory?

What oil weight are you using? That oil pressure is a bit concerning

Probably the voltage dropping towards 11.1V, below a potential minimum requirement for the voltage regulator circuit and/or the capacitors inside are undersized to maintain a constant voltage. I'm no electrical engineer but that's at a high level guess.

Want that BOV to work properly? Pair of with a Haltech and a bunch of sensors. Modernisation, better fuel economy too.

Try swap your alternator, someone else recently had a similar electrical issues with their 150A alternator too, swapped it, all the voltage issues went away.

I dare say all of us active SAU retards (no Gen Zs reading this right?) are probably more knowledgeable than the entire globe on Skyline shit boxes.

That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect

Definitely looks like an outlier, perhaps there may be some electrical issues like others have pointed out earlier. My pressure drop I can replicate over and over again, which I'm blaming the relocation block for, however yours is mounted right up the block.

Correct, I didn't put GT-R in the same category in this thread, incase I offend anyone. But @GTSBoy knows my true thoughts on all Nissans.

Well that rules out the relocation theory, however with no load, you're still getting 1.5bar of oil pressure. Can you present that data in a scatter graph over longer period? Would really highly the anomalies. Wish Haltech could do that.

As in an oil relocation block away from the motor? This "may" be the cause of the inaccurate oil reading, however that's the same excuse I'm using with my shit box too lol. On WOT you'll see a good 6 to 7bar of oil pressure and lift off, it drops to under 2 bar tripping the engine protection.

Thanks for the explanation, sophisticated WMI setups aren't too common here in the land drop bears so. Only reason I'm curious is because I feel that the end of bowser E85 is coming. Just a matter of time.

This would be interesting, would you feed it via a 2nd row of injectors? Or just usual WMI nozzles?

Old thread, but you get the idea. S2/S3 GTS-t shit boxes or GT-R require the steering wheel without the additional module as the airbag control module is under the centre console. Where as the S1/S1.5 shit boxes have it built into the wheel.

S2/3 GT-R is the same as S2 GTS-t The SRS airbags module in under the centre console. The S1/S1.5 GTS-t and S1 GT-R had the module built into the steering wheel. FWIW, I have a S3 GT-R wheel in my S2 GTS-t shit box. Same airbag plug, airbag light goes on then off, meaning all systems are go. S3 GT-R has red stitching, that's about it.

I'm going to run hard lines front to back in the future. That should help dissipate a bit more heat. If not, a fuel cooler might be next

Driving around town in summer, probably like 50°C tops. Went for a 2 hour drive before in summer, somewhere in the 60°C Mind you, I have 3x fuel pumps. 2x 460L 1x DW200

I remembered wrong, but was close though 1Kz setting because those Jaycar SSRs don't go any faster, 1x pump per SSR with flyback diodes & heatsinks. In saying that, the heatsinks are overkill. Just on an alloy plate is more than sufficient. You'll find without a flyback diode, your SSRs will heat up big time and also die prematurely. I've been running the two same SSRs since the last motor, no issues, car does 2 hour straight drives in summer once in a while and gets punished on the track. Nothing melts, no hot messes, etc.

This is what I've done, add DC until it meets my fuel pressure requirements and above 4500 at over 1bar of boost, I send its mum with 100% DC to both pumps. I'll post up a table soon when I'm free.

He's probably bought a M2