Dose Pipe Sutututu

A light grind of the underside will make it fit ok, a job for next decade 🥲

I've got the white stalks, and black o-rings from memory. Haven't done the spark plugs since it left the dyno 4 years ago LOL. Was misfiring on the dyno when I fed it more than a bar of boosr, so I upped the dwell, didn't do anything, then I started to gap it down, and ended up at 0.4mm when it stopped misfiring. It kind of clears the valley cover, but it's pressed hard on the coils, so I don't run it anymore.

The loom took 3 goes before it was right, wrong lengths each time, excess slack and one time it was too short. I'm using the 1st gen, with those white stalks. I'm sure it's not isolating properly either, I'm running 0.4mm gaps to avoid misfires. High chance the crappy white plastic stalks aren't doing their job.

haha.. yep, I experienced that with their R35 Coil kit on a NEO head.

Yiewwwwwwwwwww that looks like the issue from this side of the keyboard! Hopefully a quick swap out and you're back on the dyno smashing keys.

Looking at the photos, you could easily just drop this pipe and dump into atmosphere Just 1 or 2 quick hits for data acquisition - if have a heat shield material and/or sheet metal, maybe just use wire/metal cable ties and attach it in a way to deflect heat from melting nearby wires.

And if it still spikes, just for now, turn off VCT completely by disabling it OR simply unplug the solenoid. Just to rule out excessive exhaust pressure. I recall a video from Motive DVD about a decade ago, where Hawkins original single Garrett GTX3582 or so turbo had boost control issues sub 1.4bar of boost as well. Food for thought? Is there anyway you can peg the WG completely open and/or dodgily not plumb it back into your exhaust system for testing purposes?

That's old school way of thinking ☺️ I run a 0.5bar spring and have boost control from 0.5bar all the way to 1.8bar

Run it in open loop for now, and drop the frequency down. This lowers the resolution and requires more duty cycle to do anything, however good to troubleshoot.

This is the other log file, if only we had exhaust manifold pressure - would understand what's going on a bit better Can you take a screenshot of your wastegate setup in the Kebabtech? Engine Functions --> Boost Control (looks like this):

it's not the issue with making power, it's the issue with controlling boost, and this isn't the first time I've seen a 6Boost having issue with controlling boost down low. The boost control here looks interesting. Looking at your logs, looks like it's set to open loop boost control strategy (which is fine). We can see VCT being kept on till about 6600RPM (no issue with that). Ignition timing (I'm assuming this is E85, seems within reason too, nothing too low, causing hot EGTS and boost spiking). There's about 15 degrees of advance when your boost shoots up, however can't be this as the timing isn't single digits. I'm assuming there's no EMAP data, as I wasn't able to find it in the logs. We can see your tuner sets the WG DC to 0% after 4300RPM, trying to control boost. My thoughts, what frequency is your wastegate set to? AND why aren't you using both ports for better control?

Sounds like a manifold issue

Post up a showing a a wide RPM range, wastegate duty, timing, TPS, MAP Use 2x rows if you can, easier to read the data. Or just send it to me

Yeah it's disconnected at the moment ☺️

I think it's the alternator, there's some cracked shit going on with the rectifier. But so far, seems to be fine again? No sparks, no weird arcing when the leads went on. I ran this past a mate, he said he had similar issues before and his auto sparky replaced the alternator. All I know is, car works, car not on fire lol.

Ahh it is now working, drove to consume two beers today.

Straight swap for my R33, I know what I got.

Looks like it works. Treated myself to a few expensive beers at Bangor Tavern.

Once you join SAU, you never really "leave". The Skyline curse comes back to drain your bank account with interest, CPI, additional fees baked in. House deposit anyone? nah.. Skyline.

better do the twin scroll properly, here's a good read https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1XrYzd1jk7/ And screen shots for those that don't like Facebook:

Might as well pop in some cams, head gasket, head studs, and a flex sensor. Full send.

Yeah I spent close to a year finding one. I was even tempted to buy a RB25DE N/A head and port it out. That latter option, could still be an option.

BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠

New setup just needs a VCT enabled head and it will come on so much earlier. At least 500rpm of added response, if not more.

Here's the workaround with Nistune I was talking about, just add in more timing on the decel table And play around with the fuel cut & recovery, it's enough to stop it from stalling on a decel