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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Can confirm previous shop that built my motor had no fking clue about oil control and caused my motor to shit itself after two track days. Current shop, Birrong Automotive, has managed to build me a motor, not to mention, has also let me tune it myself and it has yet to blow up after 7 track days. Great oiling success, yashimash.
  2. Liking the new charger, battery all good (I think). Also like how you can put it in power supply mode too. Will troubleshoot with that sometime soon.
  3. Pretty cool No battery backup siren, I have a motorcycle siren in mine.
  4. First time, battery connected, then I went to disconnect it (thinking maybe the battery is fked). Both times, HUGE sparks went flying and shit started to glow 🥲 I'm planning to do that next, unplug the alternator. Just a bit of a pain in the arse due to the plenum and DBW, but needs to be done. Threw sparks even when I just touched the +VE jump point, even before letting go of the clamps. Good point about the amps, there's a 8 gauge going to a fuse block that splits into 2x 12 gauge. Going to be a fun process of elimination
  5. Hmmm.. trying to theorise what else it can be. Still don't understand how sparks were being thrown, and the clamps/connectors touch points started to glow. It was like putting a spanner across the terminals. More troubleshooting soon
  6. You work fast and efficient, all that would have taken me at least 2.5 years LOL
  7. So.... here's one for @GTSBoy ..... I plugged up the battery in the boot, to my surprise no sparks, no shorts, alarm went off, dome light on, etc. tried to crank the car, motor rotated a few times. Battery is pretty flat so will need more juice before I try to start it. With the battery plugged up at the back, when you pop a volt meter across the chassis and the jump point, you get a nice 12V, no issue. However, when you disconnect the battery at the rear, you straight up get a short. My broscience is thinking there's some issue with the rectifier, dead diodes perhaps?
  8. It was $7 more than the 10A - as an Asian, I see value. Dollar per A lol 5A - $113 - $22.60 per A 10A - $189 - $18.90 per A 15A - $196 - $13.06 per A Sure the maths stacks up, however does the use case? maybe not - however I wish to purchase a boat in the future.
  9. New charger, who dis? Apparently the boating guys prefer this charger over the CTEK ones. Plugged up the flat battery and got some data
  10. Lolololol maybe, man I hate this car. Lapsed judgement a respray and a new motor, when I should have just scrapped the lot when I had the chance. Farken.
  11. Sigh... yeah OEM mount rear battery, very R33, very demure, very mindful.
  12. Oh, I thought of that too... I disconnected the battery and hooked up the leads direct to the car without the battery in place. Sparks... I suspect the following: Alternator has decided to kill itself Starter has decided to kill itself I'll recharge the battery, then unplug both, and go from there. The above might take 6 months - however I did buy a Victron 15 AMP trickle charger, apparently it's better than CTEK? Amazon, delivery by tonight. https://www.amazon.com.au/Victron-Battery-Charger-15-Amp-waterproof/dp/B07P4LMMMD?ref_=ast_sto_dp
  13. In other news, my shit box R33 is Gregged. I kid you not, 3 months ago it drove perfectly fine, parked it and it sat on the trickle charger for about 2.5 months. A few weeks ago, noticed the charger stopped working. Oh wells, 15 years out of a CTEK charger, across 3x shit box JDMs (and other dailies) you've done well. Went to try start the car today, nothing. Thought, yeah ok, let's get the jumper leads on. This is where shit escalated lol... Initially popped on the leads and noticed a great deal of sparks, not to worry. Let's triple check shit and try again, yep same. Thought perhaps was just an initial current draw from the 2x audio amplifiers, etc. nope, leads got warm and the fuse box jump point started to GLOW! 🥲 Luckily the Tiguan wasn't on, I can't imagine what Christmas lights combination would have appeared on the dash if the motor was running. Anyhow, hastily gave up and messaged Brett for a laugh, or commiserate whatever you want to call it. Skyline (Shitbox) Lyfe 😂
  14. I was more referring to Brett's 100% fit comment, where there isn't a perfect seal between the wastegate piston/valve. I do not believe at that point there would be a discernible difference in spool/engine efficiency. Where as the usual 6Boost style of "twin scroll" which doesn't divide the pulses to the wastegate versus something like a Sinco twin scroll, which is split all the way to the wastegate piston/valve, you'll definitely see a difference.
  15. Just need to remember how lazy exhaust gasses are, it's travelled down the runners, into the collector and up through a divided wastegate path, even if it's not a 100% divided seal at the wastegate piston/valve, it's not going to travel all the way up, down, then back into the opposing cylinders. Anyhow, each to their own, nothing wrong with twin wastegates. I just prefer 1x huge one.
  16. how is a manifold with the pulses split all the way to the gate seat any different? Same outcome.
  17. Great read about manifold design, twin scroll with the division all the way to the wastegate seat/fire ring https://www.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1088497013319763&id=100064784224104 This is why I bought a Sinco manifold for my shit box and not a 6Boost due to wastegate design.
  18. New turbo setup required, 400kW or go home.
  19. Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.
  20. Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
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