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bcozican last won the day on April 13 2018

bcozican had the most liked content!

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About bcozican

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    Rank: RB25DE

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  1. Maybe an inbetween is an Origin GT wing ? at least its well made I had what ended up being an ebay type CF wing that I was sold second hand as an Origin GT wing snap at 230kmph Previous to that had an actual Orgin GT wing and structurally superior to the ebay spec one re: aero.......... yes alot of info and rule of thumb can be found but usually takes lots and lots of rabbit hole searching as mentioned above
  2. should be able to get a reliable 600rwhp out of an engine that size the question is..... how much money are you going to leave to spend on getting the power to the ground, going around corners and stopping the car
  3. S13 rear subframe is the same as the r32 one while reinforcing etc etc is good if your going to do something like that before starting maybe look to upgrade to an s14 subframe with improved geometry (anti squat built in etc) and go from there. All your arms will still fit just need offset solid bushings as the holes are circa 10mm difference in spacing - you can also buy these from gktech Imo no need to upgrade axles, I have run over 500++ rwhp on any dyno for drift, circuit for over 10 years with only 1 axle being slightly bent (after 5 years, replaced and still going after another 5) no need to change diff also, just put a new centre into what you have... work out what you want to do with the car and buy appropriate centre ie: 1, 1.5 or 2 way and then nothing else has to change ie: axles (if you end up going s14 rear subframe you'll just have to change the backing plate of your current r32 gtst diff to a s14 or gtr rear cover So - do your subframe (but preferrably an s14 / r33 one) do your rear arms do your diff this will cover 95% of applications up to 500 ++ rwhp in the most effective, cost efficient, proven manner done
  4. I had a full tote odds rb22 I put in my drift car when I thought it was too hard to go rb25 after my rb20 broke mostly ran the rb22 around mid high 400's lasted 4 years of alot of drifting It broke when I tried to put 550hp through it then went to standard rb25 using mostly the same gear. Rb22 built vs rb25 standard was like day and night not even close. Ie: Rb22 not worth it
  5. I run a single entry on 400rwkw rb25 setup for 8 years successfully with no fuel related leaning issues. Tuner said the same if I do it again or change it to go twin entry with centre return for same reason you stated / safer. He also said he doesnt see any drop leaning issues across cylinders across mine on dyno so no need to change so.ething that isnt broken
  6. Mines track car yes but not full hetik on the engine bay and relatively clean, you might see something there you think might suit battery moved canisters on the right near the intake for coolant overflow and p/s fluid brake lines are braided yes - one still runs across top neat wiring loom and tucking it away is key
  7. Recently acquired a second set of track rims not as light etc as the Ce28rt's but good none the less Works MRO's 18 x 10.5 +20's in Matt black After having another session of issues / misfire and putting the car on the dyno worked out had a blocked injector. No other damage luckily. Banged a new set in and finally ready to go and hope thats it for the mechanical issues for a while ! Went to a Sprint day at Barbagallo - went well new PB by 0.9sec at 60.7 first in class and 3rd overall to a crazy radical and an F3 with a V8 in it which were both great to watch More seat time now with the aim of a 59 sec lap Video below is a 62.3, 61 flat and 60.7 chasing Simon around with his 700hp R32 GTR build thread on here we basically doing same lap times (cant seem to embed it ) https://youtu.be/kpXBp3IDJYw There is a time attack series on in W.A next year so will be competing in that, should be fun
  8. I run a NPC sprung single they made for me to take 450 rwkw ( Im at 400 rwkw). Have it on circuit car runs and feels great no probs at all
  9. Yeop most practical way would be tape the guard on the car put that wheel on and actually look and measure. Then you can actually see it The below is from experience not a calculator.... I dont know if your going to get a wheel, even custom.... to directly fit your gaurds with rocket bunny on them a spacer is going to be needed I have an s14 rear subframe, which is about 5 - 10mm a side wider than normal r32 subrame, and 18 x 10.5 +15's with 295 050's on the back of my R32 gtst. With 60mm over fenders on it sat just nicely ie: flushish. I also just had my car widened at the rear 70mm each side and the rim descibed about sits 10 mm ish inside the guard Rocket bunny fenders are 100 mm wider, and if you have a normal r32 subframe, youre looking at needing another approx. 45mm in offset over and above your 10.5" + 15's for it to sit just on flush, so 18 x 10.5" - 30 ish is what your going to need which either doesnt exist or going to cost $5K+
  10. Few basic but interesting things re: new stuff and sideskirts etc Two events in a row I had a failure on a powersteering line at the rack the first time was pre new aero and all this work.... p/s fluid covered the whole underneath of the car right back to the diff, second time was the event straight after getting the new aero etc and not even the gearbox barely got any fluid on it but p/s fluid went right up the side of the car back to the rear quarters other than being a friggin hassle drama and a pain this 'on field test' with where the fluid went tells me the new side skirts are getting rid of a whole heap of air also just did a test and tune on Fri... was very crowded track and barely got any clear runs but just matched my PB which was previous to all the new stuff on older tyres a hotter day (rather than night) and on low boost (480hp vs 550hp to get its last time) so all seems promising at the moment like anything though seat time is key
  11. Iface page can be followed at Brandis Racing R32 Skyline for those keen https://m.facebook.com/Brandis-Racing-R32-Skyline-435270253576977/ Unfortunately the track outting was cut short by a steering issue I had one sighting lap that was still relatively quick and half a hotlap time to get back in the seat and learn some new things about the car and just give it a go again
  12. made it to the track the 1202 is with 30ltr fuel and 5 kg race gear Race weight for sprint = 1190kg thats car with 20 ltr fuel with me in it its +80kg (me) + 5 kg race gear so total weight 1275kg (she aint no S13 with sr20 thats for sure) this car starts at 1280 standard The before and after is below - this is with 45 ltr fuel in the surge and tank - total loss after all this = 38kg actual weight taken out was around 54kg main bits of extra weight added back for wing bracing, ally tubbing / filling in rear wheel well and then side skirts I calc at about 6kg each so put back in prox 16kg ish - everything still has to be strong and functional Before: After: Where did the weight come out ? Headlights: std headlights + indicators 6.3kg put in carbon blanks with ally brackets 1kg = save 5.3kg No Canards = 1.4kg with nuts and bolts Cut 3kg off back of the splitter Door cards: I have ally door cards on the front doors but they were powdercoated both sides combined weight 4kg went to 1mm carbon sheet = 400 g so saved 3.6kg Carbon intake: metal intake was 1.5kg this intake 300g saved 1.2kg and looks good I think Carbon boot: Standard boot I was running weighed 11kg - the carbon boot is just the skin and weight 1kg on the dot - saved 10kg The rest basically came out of the back taking out the doors and rear guard (right rear had heaps of bog in it), cutting rear bumper etc Roughly in total the wing, side skirts and splitter add approx 25kg of weight to the car Really weigh wise and budget etc I think 1160kg so another 30 kg out is feasible but that'll be it, front doors still weight 12kg each, bonnet is still china carbon at 8kgish not 3kg it can be, front splitter and bumper maybe looked at also At 1160kg, bumper the hp up to over 600 and some slightly bigger front brakes to cope Id say it'd be pretty wild - for me at least .... still running H pattern though
  13. this has now been and gone but there was a couple of day turn around between picking the car up after all this and the next event the schedule was tight was a late night pickup prep for the track day and wrap started the next day thoughts on new colour ?? It looks way better in person I think and also in natural light but hey its done now so...
  14. that escalated quickly !! from lets extend the side skirts to improve the profile of the car to ... na lets have a crack
  15. chromoly wing bracing to the chassis, the 1st incarnation of the internal mounts that were done was sub-optimal - this makes it rock solid. The wing stays will be changed in time, Im not the hugest fan but they work for now rear guards are now approx 80mm wider than standard body each side - some other stuff goin on there too ... no parachute at the back here .... the fiberglass panel weighs just under 4kg... the gutted out door alone was 11kg cleaning up the front a bit... wont be running canards anymore lets face it they dont do much if anything really, cleaned up the flow with tyre spats. Can see carbon lights poking in also can see how wide the back is from this angle car will also be a new colour.... obviously previous colour is awesome but given the timeframe and the price of painting it that colour again its a no for now, and change is good right !?
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