Murray_Calavera

You might also struggle to get a racing harness engineered. A few that I've spoken to want the harness to automatically retract the way the stock one does. If you're 100% set on doing this and keeping it legal, find an engineer to work with first and follow their guidance.

Get the diff and report back. You'll probably find the diff is enough to keep you happy once it's in.

When they say 'custom loom' are they telling you what about it is custom? If it's simply a replica of the factory loom, that price seems steep. If their 'custom loom' is concentrically twisted with autosport connectors etc, then it's the bargain of the century!

Here you go mate, arms with rubber bushing - https://www.hardracesuspension.com.au/suspension-package-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-gtt-gtst~125199

Do you have any intentions of taking your car to the track? If so, having proper engine protection is worth the price of the modern ECU - everything else then is a bonus.

Yep, I've found the same thing with them regarding the garage situation. My coverage is around the 15k mark if memory serves. I'll have to put it up again soon the way the market is going with skyline prices. There is no chance in hell I could replace the car if there was a total loss.

That Shannons quote seems insane, I insure my daily (3rds party only) and my R33 full comp with Shannons for $780 per year and that's for both policies.

I can confirm, the knock control in the pro plug in is useless. It doesn't actually detect knock, all it does is detect noise. The knock control in the elite series is vastly improved and actually useful. There would be plenty of features that people don't turn on, it doesn't make it useless. I would imagine that a lot of tuners don't spend time setting it up as the customers are not prepared to spend the $$ on it. It's one of those things, if the tune is conservative and in the life of the car never sees any knock, then due to cost/benefit it doesn't get setup.

My flex fuel works fine on my dash. Sadly it currently shows 1%

What piston to cylinder wall clearance did you go with when it was built?

The thing is though, we don't even know how much power the car made on lower timing. It might be the case that you pull the timing back to 20 degrees and lose 20hp and you call it a day. There are so many things that can affect the overall power the car makes, timing is only a part of it. One thing I can guarantee though is, Nismo 740's are not happy on pump 98 at idle or any other really low load area, like cruising on a slight decline and using a touch of throttle to maintain a constant speed (around -70KPA if your looking at a fuel map).

Injector flow rates are not linear in their low pulse width operating range. Nismo 740's are not happy below 1.5ms. If your curious about this stuff, Google injector flow rate chart. It should make more sense with a picture. So for example, when you have 740's operating a hair over 1.5ms at idle on pump 98, your mixtures will be around 11AFR. Modern injectors are much better at operating in their low pulse width range which makes it possible to achieve a nice idle with good mixtures.

Haha classic. Nismo 740's are the culprit for many of these issues. For example, you cannot get stoich mixtures with pump 98 at idle with nosmo 740's. You can achieve a nice stable smooth idle but it'll be rich as f**k (11ish AFR give or take). If your tuner targeted stoich mixtures at idle, yes it will be choppy and unstable as you describe. Your tuner would have put a sniffer up your car's butt when it was on the dyno which is not as accurate as you can be with a 4.9 sensor pre-cat but meh, you work with what you've got. I'd say from here you've got 2 options, put it on e85 (you'll still have issues but many will be solved as the injectors will generally be operating in their linear zone) Or Get a set of modern top feed injectors. If you want to stay on pump 98 and keep your sanity, this is the only option. Once you've got your fueling sorted, I'd throw it on the dyno again and see how you go. This time make sure your tuner is using a set of knock ears.

Ok, that makes sense. You've got a dinosaur ecu, you could also have dinosaur injectors. Do you know what injectors you have? Shitty side feed injectors could be the culprit for a lot of those issues. When you say it makes shit power on regular timing, how much timing and how much power exactly? Do you have a wideband? What are your fuel mixtures like in the areas you are having issues?

These issues, have they been there the entire time you've owned the car? You've had it about 8 years now?