Murray_Calavera

I've been looking for a rust free R33 for a while now, I'm starting to think rust is factory fitted

Just so we are on the same page, you are going to pull out the fuel pump yourself but you are not prepared to join 2 wires?

My cluster was $407 =/ Does anyone know if the 3dracingsolutions stuff is any better?

Thanks for the feedback, I really didn't know what to expect. When you look at the photos they use on the website, it's all so perfect. Guess it's a bit of the old Big Mac photo, Big Mac reality lol Still though, I want my battery LED light

I ordered one with the battery LED option, you can see the additional $20 charge for that option on the invoice. There is no battery LED on my dash. None of the edges on the dash are straight. I don't know if my standards are too high, but I would expect where the IC7 sits to have a straight edge to sit flush with the IC7 display. It's hard to tell with the photos as the black doesn't make it easy to see. I'll get some photos taken with my IC7 mounted in it a bit later.

My dash was posted a few days after my email which they didn't reply to. It arrived yesterday. It's wrong and the quality is questionable. Time to send them another email and hopefully they will send me the dash I paid for. Wish me luck. Fingers crossed my dash was a practice one and yours is much better.

The Link vs Haltech is a tough choice, I liken it a bit to Android (Link) vs Apple (Haltech). The Link gives you a bit more value but the Haltech stuff sure is pretty and very user friendly. Will you be installing sensors and tuning the thing yourself? If so, the main benefit for me is being able to drive to Haltech and work on the car with their tech's in person. Every time I visit Haltech I'm amazed at their customer support. It almost feels a bit naughty in a way, kinda like if I bought a turbo then turned around and asked the supplier to help me install it haha. I really can't overstate how amazing their customer support is. If your just giving the car to a workshop/tuner, I suppose whatever they prefer working on or can get a better deal on may sway your opinion.

Welcome! That looks like a really clean example, nice work getting your hands on it

Yep it's pretty annoying, they replied to my emails when I was spending money. I asked them about fitting LED lights, they got straight back to me. Now that I'm asking for an ETA... radio silence. What ECU are you using? The IC7 can't be fed the fuel level signal directly.

I've had my Haltech engine protection kick in twice now. Once during a drift event when I had a lean out. Probably saved the motor. Another time when my stupidity resulted in me having the wastegate perma-closed. Having infinity boost most certainly would have done some damage. The engine protection kicking in amazingly well and the boost spike only hit about 22ish psi with no harm done. Yeah I love my Haltech. I think it is money well spent. Sometimes having an ECU is like insurance - if you never make a claim it's money wasted right? But when it saves your ass again and again, it really feels priceless.

Hey mate, I still haven't started this job as I've been waiting for my 3D printed dash to arrive from Mako Motorsport... Been waiting about 2 months so far and they aren't replying to my emails =/ My install might be a bit different to yours, I ended up buying the Haltech fuel level sender signal conditioner so I'll be using voltage to build my fuel level table. I'll still post up what I end up doing after its all done and dusted. I'm getting tempted to put through a charge back for the dash and ordering one from 3dracingsolutions

I kinda feel like if you had this M2/3/4, you'd be running into similar issues anyway.

Just a handy tip for your AC compressor adventure The R33 series 1 gtst, series 2 gtst and GTR all have different AC components. If you are replacing the compressor and thinking about replacing other components, have a look and see what is available overall. I replaced every AC component in my series 1 gtst and it was a nightmare sourcing parts. If I had a time machine, I would have replaced it all with series 2 parts as they are much easier to find.

Well it's not black and white, if you torque it to ARP specs, then they will be below their yield point and the metal will 'spring back' and be reusable again. This is not a guarantee that they are as good as new, but typically they are fine to be used again. You can torque ARP studs to yield, it will clamp the head down tighter but now the studs are a one time use only. This isn't wrong, the mechanic may have a valid reason for wanting a higher clamp on the head. Without knowing how much torque has been put through them, I wouldn't risk using them again.

A big part of how reusable the ARP studs are is if they have been torqued beyond their yield point. Do you know the specs the head was torqued to before?