Murray_Calavera

I'd be surprised if you could get T2's for the front, might be able to get them for the back though. If you want better advice, we'll need to know what you use the car for

You seem to be scared of undoing those 4 bolts. You also seem to have hit a road block. My advice would be, remove the bolts. You might find it helps. If it doesn't, you'll be surprised that you can do them back up. Don't be scared to have a go and try things. If your paranoid, take lots of photos and put the parts/bolts into resealable plastic bags and label them.

You say you've unbolted everything but in the picture there are still many bolts? Go forth and remove bolts, this should be a very simple job.

Seeing as your going rebuild at this stage and posted earlier that you're trying to do it on the cheap, just remember the 'rebuild kit' is only a small part of your upcoming expenses. I'd get these things quoted up before you start - * Engine cleaning * Crack testing, block, rods, pistons (seeing as you plan to reuse these) * Bore/hone, with torque plate if you prefer * Re-surfacing the block * Any crank work required, grind/linish * Balancing * Servicing the head I wouldn't be surprised if you dropped $2,000 at the machine shop. Also be prepared to replace parts that you didn't expect to replace. Old hoses, snapped bolts, various other worn connectors etc. You get the idea. It all adds up, I wouldn't be surprised if the whole job ran you $5,000 with you doing all the labour you can, pulling the motor, stripping it, assembly and installation. I'm guessing you have all of the tools required to build an engine, if not factor that into the overall cost of the engine build as well. In the end the hardest part of sticking to the budget might be avoiding the, 'I'll just do this one thing..." Maybe you want to put a set of studs in it or maybe you want to use ACL bearings, or a metal head gasket... it's a slippery slope my friend lol. My 1 thing would be to put a set of rocker arm stoppers in while you're there. Good luck

Add a turbo to make use of all the extra fuel

My local Nissan dealership is actually really good, no issues with getting parts in... but it's pretty rare I end up ordering anything through there https://jp-carparts.com Getting parts from Japan has always been below cost price from the local dealership, obviously they can't sell something below cost price so any big purchase is coming from Japan and I'll wait the extra few days for the parts. I also use Kudos and Justjap, but for big purchases sometimes it's worth waiting a few extra days

Depends on how much 'common sense' you want to apply. So you can start with the easy one, it will be cheaper to buy a turbo car rather then converting yours. So that leaves it to, how much do you love your current car? My swift is on it's, 3rd engine rebuild, 7th gearbox, etc... you get the idea. It does not make financial sense to do this but I love it and won't let it go. I'm sentimental about cars, my vote is convert it - but go full mental when you do. Eg when you drop the motor in, make sure its forged. When you upgrade the brakes, throw on some 6 pot fronts and 4 pot rears. Try to avoid using any stock turbo skyline parts and go to what the turbo guys are upgrading to and skip the middle step.

I'm not prepared to give up on the anti lag dream. Also, I tune my car myself and it's something I want to learn to setup. I'm not saying I'm going to hit the anti lag at every set of lights, it's going to be used sparingly with common sense in mind.

Hi all, I did a bit of googling and couldn't find anything about when it makes sense to update the exhaust valves to Inconel? My engine build is quickly getting out of hand with all of the, 'while I'm at it I'll also do...' I'm thinking of putting in a set of Supertech valves because I'd like the option of running anti-lag and want it to be as safe as possible. I'm thinking those valves will do a better job of handling the higher exhaust temps. I'm already doing new springs, cams, lifters, all service items - should I add new valves to the list as well? They aren't cheap at around $1,200, so I want to be confident it's money well spent. Cheers.

jp-carparts.com

What spring are you planning to swap to and what max boost are you chasing?

If there are zero other issues, I wouldn't change it.

Plynx, do you have a catch can hidden under there? Looks super sexy. I need to sort out my catch can setup

ooo details on the oil catch can/intake cover please

I never said anything bad about Plastigauge. I'd like to for example, check the bores for size, roundness and taper. I can't see me doing that with anything other then a bore gauge. Decent bore gauges go for around $600ish? Then I'll need a set of mic's, so another $400ish? It's starting to add up real quick. Say I want to use a rod bolt stretch gauge, that's another $350ish? I'd call these tools specialist tools, along with ring cutters, angle gauges, magnetic deck bridge, magnetic base dial gauge etc etc. Some of these are quite affordable but it all adds up. Maybe they aren't 'specialist tools' but that's the sort of thing I'm referring to. Hopefully you can see where I'm coming from and tool hire would make a lot more sense for me in this position. I guess I'll keep sniffing around for a hire shop, if not I'll make do with what I have.