Murray_Calavera

Post up the boost control table. I couldn't watch the video but it sounds like you're asking the boost controller to cycle around the idle areas of the map. Simply pull the duty cycle out of those areas of the map, it's not like your making boost at idle anyway lol.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned this yet. The platinum pro has terrible 'knock detection' it's closer to 'random noise detection'. I'm not saying the ecu is rubbish, it just that it can't do proper knock detection. The platinum pro is a very old ecu by todays standards. If you want better knock detection, get a haltech elite ECU or better yet, by a plex knock monitor.

So there is no issue fitting a bigger turbo and being road legal, but it's not ok to remove a flange from your dump/front pipe? Where abouts are you located anyway?

What's the issue with it though? The JJR dump doesn't stop you from running a cat.

I don't mean the tune wont be good if you pay someone to do it, I just mean there will be things that won't be done because it's not cost effective. A good example is with the flex tune, say the car currently has a tank of e40 in it, how much additional timing do you dial in to make use of that? I imagine most tuners would be of the opinion that as long as it's safe, thats fine. They know you'll fill up on e85 when you get a chance so as long as you've got a good 98 tune and a good e85 tune, the in-between doesn't matter as you won't be spending much time there anyways. But if you enjoy the tuning process and are keen to put in the time, you can fine tune all the in-between areas and make some extra power.

We all start somewhere, if you are keen to tune it yourself I'd say go for it for sure. There are so many resources out there now and plenty of us here can help you as well. At the end of the day dyno time is expensive so unless you want to pay a small fortune, you'll have to compromise somewhere. If you tune it yourself you can take your time and set everything up as perfectly as you'd like.

I wish it was that easy, they have oil surge issues too

Do you have logs of the sessions where the engine protection kicked in?

I still haven't gotten around to sorting this yet, but I will soon. I didn't think I'd have any speed bumps other then the charge light =/ When I get around to doing this job, I'll pull the dash out, take the car for a drive and see what else breaks. I'll post up the fuel level vs voltage table that I'll build as well when its done.

Awesome, thanks mate Great teamwork in this thread!

I'm using a resistor, I'll link to the instructions below - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0059/8332/files/Alternator_Excitor_LED_Module.pdf?2740344812066901986 I guess I'll just wire the "Blue - To Alternator Switch" to the charge light and see how I go.

Nice If you get a chance while your installing it, do you mind doing a little how-to on how to wire the battery light resistor? I don't know why I can't get my head around how to wire in the resistor where the battery light was.

Safe to assume he is talking about the transmission oil and filter. I don't know how hard to access your transmission filter is though, some of the Subaru boxes need to be stripped to be replaced =/

Try not to be intimidated working on the car, you said changing plugs is a big job - but it is quite simple really. Take your time, take photos as you go, if your still worried, bag bolts and components and label the bags (then reassemble in reverse order). A few simple things to try, you can use a mechanical fuel pressure gauge to see if your pump is supplying enough fuel pressure to the rail. Put the pressure gauge somewhere between the rail and fuel filter. You can use a spark plug in-line checker to see if your getting spark. Both tools are cheap and easy to use. If your unsure, you can youtube and see how to use them.

I would do it for sure, for the reasons above plus there is power to be had, turn the boost up to 10 psi and dial in some timing, it's a very noticeable bump in power.