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Murray_Calavera

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Murray_Calavera last won the day on August 2 2020

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About Murray_Calavera

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    Rank: RB25DE

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  • Car(s)
    33gtst, nb8a, boosted swift

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  1. If I was you I'd do the following: 0 degrees negative camber in the rear Keep adding pressure in the rears til you can spin them as freely as you like. Your not on a public road, don't be afraid to go higher. Take them up to 70 or even 80psi. You may not need that much but the message here is don't be afraid to go higher with it. What type of clutch are you using? I'm surprised clutch kicking isn't working for you. Are you dialing in some big revs when you kick it?
  2. Ah the yellow paint of sadness The 600kw+ GTRs are breaking shit though, everything breaks eventually if you use it.
  3. No you don't need it for the car to run right. Without it plugged into the sensor, all that will happen is the stock boost gauge won't work (the sensor doesn't talk to the ECU. It talks to the dash only).
  4. Based on how random this has been for you, it sounds like it could be fuel surge. By any chance has this been happening when your at low fuel levels, and/or accelerating hard round corners or up hills? Getting fuel surge will feel like your hitting a rev limiter or boost cut etc.
  5. Have you had a look at the "Rb25 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results" thread?
  6. Well this has escalated quickly lol. While yes I could install all those parts, it would be much quicker to have a workshop do it. If you had the car ready to go, I'd have it road tuned in a day no problem. With the wideband and air temp sensor, they'd be permanently installed in the car and need to be there before it's tuned.
  7. When the wideband sensor is cold, from memory it pulls about 2 amps to warm up quickly then drops right off when it's up to temperature. I just threw a fused relay in the boot (so on ignition, the wideband gets battery voltage), it's been happily feeding my wideband for years without issue.
  8. Right this second, yes. But currently living in outback nsw. I'm serious though, happy to drive to you, install the platinum pro and tune it for $1,500. And if your keen, I can explain the entire tuning process. The whole teach a man to fish thing.
  9. If your happy to pay $1500 for a platinum pro, you can have mine. I'll even install it and tune it free of charge! (Provided you have a wideband sensor, can't tune without it)
  10. I really hope no one is stupid enough to try and get something like this up and running here. I would have thought that if anyone had thought about it for more then a second they would realise it doesn't make any sense. They show all these pictures of trucks rolling coal and then say ban race cars, the two don't even relate =/
  11. No worries mate! I've always found Haltech to be very good, I bet if you speak with them they'll refund/exchange the CAN box you don't need.
  12. A good rule of thumb is with a 3 port mac valve, you can double your base spring pressure. So with a 1 bar wastegate spring, if you max out your boost controller you should get around 2 bar of boost.
  13. Everything looks right in the photo of your setup. The WB1 has 2 CAN ports on it so you can daisy-chain it with other CAN devices. You could use the second CAN port to connect your dash. You'll only run into issues when you want to install an additional device, say an I/O box, then you'll need a CAN hub. Just so you know, the Haltech CAN hub works with the Platinum Pro (this thing https://www.haltech.com/tag/can-hub/). I don't know if you ordered the can box because you thought the hub wouldn't work with the platinum ecu.
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