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Murray_Calavera

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Murray_Calavera last won the day on January 8

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About Murray_Calavera

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    Rank: RB25DE

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    33gtst, nb8a, boosted swift

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  1. Are you a million % sure it is a 'rising rate' FPR? I'm guessing you have a vacuum/boost referenced FPR that increases the fuel pressure to match the increase inlet pressures. It scales at 1:1, so 1 psi increase in boost, 1 psi increase in fuel pressure. This is how the stock one works, and I'm guessing that is also how your one works. Back in the 90's people used to add rising rate FPR when tuning was very primitive as a way of turboing their NA cars. I haven't heard of anyone using a rising rate reg for at least 15 years now, could be more. Can you add a weblink to the FPR you installed?
  2. Sounds good. Fingers crossed it's only the charge light that I need to retain.
  3. Hi all, I need to get my fuel level signal into my Haltech ECU and I wanted to get some ideas before I pulled my dash apart. Is this going to be as simple as, a signal wire will run into the stock fuel level gauge and for example, full is 5 volts empty is 1 volt etc. Then I can create a rough table checking the volts as the fuel levels change. The Haltech IC7 dash now has support for odometer and fuel level so I'm keen to bin the stock dash and just run this with a sexy 3D printed dash cluster.
  4. I would try - Skyline Spares at Wetherill Park http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/ https://justjap.com/ If still no luck I'd get the parts direct from Japan. https://jp-carparts.com/ The last time I used jp-carparts, I got the part here landed for about half the cost of what the dealer wanted.
  5. Well, if you want more boost your going to need some form of boost controller. If all you have is a stock turbo with stock actuator, all you can do is run stock boost. Pretty simple. You seem upset that they 'left the boost t installed' - how did you expect them to turn up your boost if they removed the boost t? Also in your first post you say the car has a stock turbo, but in your list of mods you say it's got a TD06? You realise that isn't the stock turbo right? Did you buy the Power FC and boost t brand new? Where abouts are you located?
  6. The short answer is you'll be fine. You probably won't even notice the difference, your going from what 8 psi to gate pressure which is what, 7 psi?
  7. Very tidy! Looks like a lot of love went into that build. What's the story with the no smoking sticker on your ashtray? that's a bit random lol
  8. I'm guessing you have an aftermarket ECU of some sort. Is your fuel control set to closed loop? What is the fuel trim doing once the car is warm at idle when the car is leaning out?
  9. Ooo just found this - https://www.turbosmart.com/product/opr-t40-40psi-blue/ Oil pressure regulator for your turbo, very sexy. Then you don't have to worry about correctly sizing your restrictor. Nice.
  10. I'm hesitant to say 'it's wrong' as I don't really like absolutes... However, I don't see how they could incorporate an oil restrictor as there are different sized restrictors for different applications.
  11. Too easy mate, this is from Garret's website - https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/choosing-a-turbocharger/turbo-system-optimization/ Oil Supply & Drainage BALL BEARING TURBO An oil restrictor is recommended for optimal performance with ball bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure of 40 – 45 psi at maximum engine speed is recommended to prevent damage to the turbocharger’s internals. In order to achieve this pressure, a restrictor with a 0.040” orifice will normally suffice, but you should always verify the oil pressure entering the turbo after the restrictor in ensuring that the components are functioning properly. Recommended oil feed is -3AN or -4AN line or hose/tubing with a similar ID. As always, use an oil filter that meets or exceeds the OEM specifications.
  12. None built in, you'll need to do that separately.
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