thatjawncrazy

thanks, will conduct myself accordingly. i unfortunately put about 150 miles on the car before reading this thread again, however no PS issues, and definitely no turbo issues. it spools normally and still feels fast to me, probably because my previous car was an N/A auto sedan...gonna go fix the PS vacuum line though lol. safe to say, got what i came to this thread for. thanks

GTSboy, thank you again. i’ve been reading all the other SAU RB25 vacuum line threads and you have the utmost patience for people asking “where do my vacuum lines go”. it’s appreciated. i did also enlist a few other RB guys local to me. i would like to run 5 to 4. turbo pressure side to wastegate actuator. i would like to run 3 to 1. power steering air valve line to intercooler outlet. (this is how it was previously). i was told 2 is the bleed port for the boost solenoid - which i’m not running - so should be capped. anyone see any problems with that?

Yup. I actually just blew my turbo. LOL. should have checked this thread before today. i also have no boost solenoid. so it should be...one line from wastegate to turbo inlet, and a T somewhere in that line that connects to the wastegate return pipe?

interestingly the wastegate vacuum hose is connected to some other tube below the intercooler piping. car still acts like garbage when throttled. ugh. anyone have pics of their stock engine bay?

aha. thanks for that one!

if anyone has a stock rB25DET and can trace these lines and wires and show me what yours connect to I would really appreciate it. this was an RB20 auto car that's been DET/5spd swapped. i would like to figure out if the harness was never modified or replaced accordingly. black plug coming off the harness wrapping around the back of the intake manifold grey IACV plug random brown/grey plugs hanging out near the left strut tower the vacuum nipple coming off the turbo inlet pipe. i can't entirely tell what this connects to in the vacuum line diagram. so neither my TPS nor my IACV are plugged in. what should be here? yes, i've googled, yes, i've read the SAU threads and asked the FB groups. yes i've read the vacuum line diagrams and stuff.

don't know anyone in this thread, but i just found it, read the entire thing in a few hours, realized greg is still posting progress, and just have to say, this is awesome. it looks awesome. 100% right about the Uras kit making it a pain to get on hoists...have the same kit on my 34 and it takes six 2x4s and race ramps to do it without taking parts off. this reminds me exactly of this thread. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/r63-amg-the-unicorn-of-my-destruction/110824/page8/

who can tell me what this is and why my car talks to me? i think it's hilarious. it's on my r34 right above the drivers-side storage compartment. the characters under the wrench say "inspection". every 10 or 20 startups, a voice starts talking in japanese from some speaker in this area below the dashboard. it says a few sentences then shuts off. different from the ETC card reader voice that happens every time i start the car. I've never found the speaker, i've never been able to catch the voice and translate what it says, and i've never found a forum thread that tells me how to reset the warnings. the holes in between the symbols are NOT buttons you can press to reset the warnings. anyone else have this? has the demon lord from Hereditary infected my car?!

interestingly enough, i found out the answer is yes. doing a flush did fix my recurring A/T light. it might have been because of the trans filter: but that doesn't really make sense to me. the fluid/filter was super dirty. would that increase the pressure in the lines and trigger an A/T light? does the car even have a way of detecting that? i have no idea. i've done 200+ miles after the flush and no A/T light. if my A/B solenoids went bad, i would think the light would've come on. shifts and drives way better now though...at 2k rpm instead of 2500...no hesitation and downshifts when i want it to.

if I find a shop that has an OBD I tool and can connect it to the port - i wonder what the suggested route is for purposely triggering transmission limp mode while i happen to be within driving distance of the shop, and then dropping everything to stop by and have them scan it. so, it would be nice if things worked out that way - but in case they don't, we are back to my original question of "will bad fluid ever trigger limp mode on its own".

Nobody around me has a Consult (USA east coast) Either way I ordered all the parts to do a trans flush so guess I'll do it anyways.

was my first thought, but a couple hundred for the cable/adapter plus not having a laptop that can run NIstune/NDSI/ECUtalk or any of the usual programs is the issue. honestly i'm going to flush it anyways and so i guess this is a little like asking people to internet-diagnose my car. just wanted to see if anyone's ever had an A/T light go away purely by doing this though

gentlemen (and others)... at 157k km on my rB25DE auto sedan and am getting an every-so-often A/T light, with the usual loss of whatever gear i'm in at the time. it always goes away once i restart, but i read the threads and watched every video and am told it will only get worse. i have zero evidence anyone has ever done a trans flush on this car. is there a chance that doing a flush will fix the problem, rather than the usual "replace the A/B solenoids"? just curious. rather not flush, seal it up again, then have to drop the pan all over again...