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Posts posted by RBN1
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Chuck it on FB on the GTR pages. Plenty of people looking for rolling shells or non-running GTR's that would be very interested in this for that ball park price.
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10 hours ago, HarrisRacing said:
Well this popped up for sale about 6 hours from me for a very fair price. I like that it's still pretty stock. It does have downpipe, full exhaust, and coilovers...but check out that stock airbox! (forgive me I've never seen one in person on the 10 or so R32's I have seen). I will keep this one stock and build the other chassis into a pretty healthy racecar.
A lot of people replace the standard air filter setup but the stock airbox is good for around 400kw. My Racepace built 32R uses a stock airbox still. In fact i went from a K&N pod filter kit back to stock airbox.
Car looks good. From the engine bay shot, it also has a Nismo strut brace with the BMC stopper built in.
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Looks like a great day was had.
Great video!.
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It looks someone trying too hard to look cool in the 90's. Which is exactly what it is.
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Agreed, great review. Thanks for posting this up. Good info. Sucks about the tow.
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Congrats!
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Time has come eh? Lots spent on this car.
Make sure to put it on the various FB GTR pages. They go nuts for ones like this.
Good luck.- 1
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12 minutes ago, Anfanee said:
Bought a flare.
Because JDM.
Nothing better than the feeling of carrying a 25 year old explosive device in the cabin.
How much do they go for these days anyway?
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7 hours ago, Anfanee said:
Hint: this isn't the super rare one... that hasn't even left Japan yet as far as i'm aware...
No one likes a cock tease.
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14 hours ago, -Jimmy- said:
Hey Stribs,
Love the head unit with equalizer that you have managed to get a hold of. Not sure of the going rate for those ones but I have scanned and uploaded a page in the late model R32 Skyline optional parts catalogue I have.
I haven't resized the scan so it's as high-res as you'll get from me.
Great scan. Don't suppose you've got the rest of the catalogue in high res somewhere?
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22 hours ago, PranK said:
Not sure I'd have any of the stickers these days, but this was 10+ years ago. I still have the genuine C10 GTR badge on a shelf at home.
Nah the Nismo side stickers are still cool
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5 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:
Sorry, I should have said "pretty much the same as"
I should also add that when Racepace took the front brake setup off to replace them,, they discovered a dodgy spacer setup (had some sort of Brembo setup when I got the car from Japan). Hence the front wheels now sit slightly more into the guards then in that photo.
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4 minutes ago, Mohsen said:
youre a monster
yeah, I realised now I defiled them, seeing as they were Mag Blue.
I have plans on getting them professionally sprayed back to their original colour.
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8 minutes ago, Mohsen said:
these would be perfect on my blue car though
They would have been but, they is bleck now.
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On 6/24/2012 at 8:39 PM, Owgasm said:
If they are in fact 17x9, i'd put money on them being +22 or +15.
I was under the impression that R32s struggled a bit with +12 offset, but the owner did say they're quite aggressive at the moment.
wow just found this post again, from when I thought i'd sell these wheels.
Ends up they're 17x9 +0 (yes, 0 offset TE37's - they stick out further than my +12 9.5 TE37's). Long discontinued by Rays.
Glad I kept them. The call for another set of TE37's is strong. Anyway .....back to my beer. -
3 hours ago, Anfanee said:
Oh also...
I am the 1st person in history that after not having HICAS for years, loves the feel of it now that i have it. Legit cannot understand why people lock it out, i can understand removing it for the weight, but the car has so much more direction above 80km/h.
Because it's great when you're driving 7/10 but at the limits (on the track) it's unpredictable and makes the rear end too floaty.
In short great for the street/casual driving. -
awesome photo's.
What's with the BNR32 bare chassis? Ex-group-A chassis?
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13 minutes ago, Coullsy said:
That battery wasn't sealed to begin with, i would recommend a Optima Yellow or Red Top battery, they are fantastic, better power per size then most batteries on the market, and completely sealed, you could install it upside down if you really wanted to.
Ah ok.
I've tilted the battery before and it hasn't spilled, previously. Accord to Century they are sealed? http://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/sealed-maintenance-freeCool, thanks I'll take a look at those. Was also looking at Odyssey AGM's.
Will need to sort out details on the battery relocation. -
Was starting to get worried as everything was running so well.
Drove the car to work and back during a couple of high 30 degree days and on the way back on the second day, noticed a foul smell from the engine bay, in stop/start traffic.
Got home and couldn't figure out where it was coming from. Thought great, somethings curled up and died in there.Noticed some strange corrosive spray marks around the battery and I found this - sealed battery is not so sealed anymore.
Managed to spill acid everywhere while I was trying to take it out.Acid has eaten away at the paint underneath and new black silicone hoses and marked the hard pipes. Great.
Quite possibly overcharging due to regulator issue but PFC said 14.1V
Could also possibly have been the batteryCleaned up as much as possible with water. Will need to sand back the exposed metal and re-paint.
What sort of battery to get next? No use keeping the battery here, in the engine bay.
Looks like there's a new project coming.... -
14 minutes ago, MrStabby said:
I just set it to whatever feels right and its not a problem. Are you thinking that the transfer case mod will provide a better outcome? If so, how do you figure?
ah ok cool.
A better outcome depends on the application, i'd say. I tried one of those manual controllers briefly in 2005/6? and didn't have much success - my experience though. The more I dialed it up, the more prominent the understeer. I always figured because it was attenuating the signal so 4wd was still active while cornering (different tracks - Winton, PI etc).
I did the transfer case mod after consulting with the place that built my car. (I did ask about putting a manual controller back in or getting a more advanced one to make it less it less tail happy). The advice from their experience was to get the transfer case mod done first instead of playing around with the 4wd programming etc. Reasons being they are old and worn and the mod will make the 4wd also come on harder not just earlier (awesome for corner exits etc). They told me a bit more but I can't remember anymore
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1 minute ago, MrStabby said:
I'd describe my $60 ebay attessa tweaker the same way...
Cool.
So you didn't mind the increased understeer around corners?
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2 minutes ago, mr_rbman said:
you don't get any attessa issues running the wheel and tyre combo you do?!
Nope. I run the same size all round.
I have 2 sets of wheels
1st set : Volk TE37 17x9” +0 Gloss Black – Falken RT615 : 255/40/17 (these wheels came with the car)
2nd set : Volk TE37 18x9.5 +12 Satin Black – Yokohama AD08R 265/35/18
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26 minutes ago, Ares180BPM said:
The official diagnosis for this is to park up on a firm but grassy field and hit the throttle hard, paying attention to how much your torque split gauge moves
I like the test method
That said I didn't think the gauge was an indication of how hard the transfer case is working, more how much pressure is being sent to it?
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17 hours ago, Leroy Peterson said:
Did you ever get results from the fuel sample?
Any ideas on original engine failure? Action taken to prevent a repeat?We knew it was fuel contamination and apparently the sample wouldn't tell us exactly what it was so we didn't end up getting one.
Guess i'll need to avoid small town servos. Will take gerry cans with me track day. Almost makes me want to go e85, if I'll be karting fuel around...
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