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RBN1

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Posts posted by RBN1

  1. 10 hours ago, HarrisRacing said:

    Well this popped up for sale about 6 hours from me for a very fair price. I like that it's still pretty stock. It does have downpipe, full exhaust, and coilovers...but check out that stock airbox! (forgive me I've never seen one in person on the 10 or so R32's I have seen). I will keep this one stock and build the other chassis into a pretty healthy racecar.

     

    A lot of people replace the standard air filter setup but the stock airbox is good for around 400kw. My Racepace built 32R uses a stock airbox still. In fact i went from a K&N pod filter kit back to stock airbox.

    Car looks good. From the engine bay shot, it also has a Nismo strut brace with the BMC stopper built in.

    • Like 1
  2. 14 hours ago, -Jimmy- said:

    Hey Stribs,

    Love the head unit with equalizer that you have managed to get a hold of. Not sure of the going rate for those ones but I have scanned and uploaded a page in the late model R32 Skyline optional parts catalogue I have.

    I haven't resized the scan so it's as high-res as you'll get from me. :)

    https://imgur.com/a/Rjp1I

     

    Great scan. Don't suppose you've got the rest of the catalogue in high res somewhere? :)

    • Like 1
  3. On 6/24/2012 at 8:39 PM, Owgasm said:

    If they are in fact 17x9, i'd put money on them being +22 or +15.

    I was under the impression that R32s struggled a bit with +12 offset, but the owner did say they're quite aggressive at the moment.

     

    wow just found this post again, from when I thought i'd sell these wheels.

    Ends up they're 17x9 +0 (yes, 0 offset TE37's - they stick out further than my +12 9.5 TE37's). Long discontinued by Rays.
    Glad I kept them. The call for another set of TE37's is strong. Anyway .....back to my beer.

  4. 3 hours ago, Anfanee said:

    Oh also...

    I am the 1st person in history that after not having HICAS for years, loves the feel of it now that i have it. Legit cannot understand why people lock it out, i can understand removing it for the weight, but the car has so much more direction above 80km/h. 

    Because it's great when you're driving 7/10 but at the limits (on the track) it's unpredictable and makes the rear end too floaty.
    In short great for the street/casual driving.

  5. 13 minutes ago, Coullsy said:

    That battery wasn't sealed to begin with, i would recommend a Optima Yellow or Red Top battery, they are fantastic, better power per size then most batteries on the market, and completely sealed, you could install it upside down if you really wanted to.

    Ah ok.
    I've tilted the battery before and it hasn't spilled, previously. Accord to Century they are sealed? http://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/sealed-maintenance-free

    Cool, thanks I'll take a look at those. Was also looking at Odyssey AGM's.
    Will need to sort out details on the battery relocation.

  6. Was starting to get worried as everything was running so well.

    Drove the car to work and back during a couple of high 30 degree days and on the way back on the second day, noticed a foul smell from the engine bay, in stop/start traffic.
    Got home and couldn't figure out where it was coming from. Thought great, somethings curled up and died in there.

    Noticed some strange corrosive spray marks around the battery and I found this - sealed battery is not so sealed anymore.
    IMG_2572_zpsn5o1wn5p.jpg
    Managed to spill acid everywhere while I was trying to take it out.

    Acid has eaten away at the paint underneath and new black silicone hoses and marked the hard pipes. Great.
    IMG_2573_zpstnyhnfra.jpg

     

    Quite possibly overcharging due to regulator issue but PFC said 14.1V 
    Could also possibly have been the battery

     

     

    Cleaned up as much as possible with water. Will need to sand back the exposed metal and re-paint.
    IMG_2576_zpslkilebp7.jpg

     

    What sort of battery to get next? No use keeping the battery here, in the engine bay.
    Looks like there's a new project coming....

  7. 14 minutes ago, MrStabby said:

    I just set it to whatever feels right and its not a problem. Are you thinking that the transfer case mod will provide a better outcome? If so, how do you figure?

    ah ok cool.

    A better outcome depends on the application, i'd say. I tried one of those manual controllers briefly in 2005/6? and didn't have much success - my experience though. The more I dialed it up, the more prominent the understeer. I always figured because it was attenuating the signal so 4wd was still active while cornering (different tracks - Winton, PI etc).

    I did the transfer case mod after consulting with the place that built my car. (I did ask about putting a manual controller back in or getting a more advanced one to make it less it less tail happy). The advice from their experience was to get the transfer case mod done first instead of playing around with the 4wd programming etc. Reasons being they are old and worn and the mod will make the 4wd also come on harder not just earlier (awesome for corner exits etc). They told me a bit more but I can't remember anymore :)

  8. 26 minutes ago, Ares180BPM said:

    The official diagnosis for this is to park up on a firm but grassy field and hit the throttle hard, paying attention to how much your torque split gauge moves :)

    I like the test method :)

    That said I didn't think the gauge was an indication of how hard the transfer case is working, more how much pressure is being sent to it?

  9. 17 hours ago, Leroy Peterson said:

    Did you ever get results from the fuel sample?
    Any ideas on original engine failure? Action taken to prevent a repeat?

    We knew it was fuel contamination and apparently the sample wouldn't tell us exactly what it was so we didn't end up getting one.

    Guess i'll need to avoid small town servos. Will take gerry cans with me track day. Almost makes me want to go e85, if I'll be karting fuel around...

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