stÖrmy
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Posts posted by stÖrmy
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All the more reason to try a few things Stormy!!
By all accounts funki_munki should have the laggier turbo, so there is something lacking on your setup.
yeah well im gonna give the non anti-surge housing a go first and do a dyno run, then ill throw the 10cm rear housing on and see what it does. My tuner ( andy @ hyperdrive ) said that my high mount manifold has a really crap design, which is fair enough as its just a china spec ebay thing, i would get a 6-boost but i really cant afford that right now.
Eventually ide like to get the 6 boost and a non-china wastegate to match, and also some cams. I want to hit 400+ on bp98 before i move to E85, i cant do E85 right now as im only running 550cc inj.
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Well mine feels pretty crappy untill it hits boost, it's not even making 100hp @ 3500rpm
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Will do, I already have the before dyno sheet up in the rb25 dyno thread, I'll do the after one as soon as I get in the dyno again, kinugawa has only just shipped my comp housing but i haven't orded the exh housing yet because I'm not sure if the larger exhaust housing is going to mean I need a new Vband exhaust setup, maybe it will need to be re made bigger ? Which I canT afford just yet.Yes, those are the correct housings.
I would LOVE to see back to back results
Please be the one to dyno before and after! For your own benefit also. -
I had the 10cm rear housing. def get rid of that anti surge housing.
i think i have the 8cm rear housing
and this : http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/kinugawatd07t67-25g4turboanti-surgecompressorhousing-1.aspx
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I will backup the anti surge housing also, I had the t67-25g with anti surge, replaced it with his normal cover and gained nearly 800rpm response on same boost, brought it alive, this is all on e85 and 22psi. I wouldn't bother with the anti surge housing in the first place.
Mines making 20psi and 250rqhp at about 4700 rpm at the moment on 98 pump fuel, maybe changing to non anti surge housing will help , but what rear housing did you have ?
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Anti sure housing makes them abit doughier onto boost, and generally need more pressure for the same power.
Oh really? I never realized this! From what i can see there is no replacement comp cover without the anti surge
Might just have to sell this turbo then and go for something else.
Generally speaking what would be the best kinugawa for 400rwhp on an rb25 these days? something that doesnt need 4000rpm to start spooling! Oh also it seems i have the smaller exhaust housing of the 2 that are available, would getting the bigger one make it more laggy ?
it seems the anti surge is meant to act like somewhat of a blow of valve? very weird because when i got my car tuned i asked not to put a blow of valve on the pipework but it kept blowing of inter cooler pipes so we had to install one...
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Just recently got my rb25 tuned ... I only got 350rwhp out of the td07 t25g with 10cm anti surge comp housing @ 18 psi... I was thinking its good for 400hp at those psi levels ? ...
Any ideas why it didn't hit 400?
Typical supporting mods, 550cc inj, z32 afm, powerfc, 3" dump intO twin 2.25 no cat, big fmic and forward facing plenum.
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when you say it doesn't even try to start do you mean the starter motor itself doesn't move ? if thats the case then you need to check the wiring going to it, when i put my Rb25 into my silvia i re-done the alternator and start wiring, the starter should have the signal wire going from the IGN wire to the flat pin plug on the starter, and then just put a positive wire from the battery to the big bolt on the starter, im pretty sure thats how mine is.
if the starter does crank but it doesn't actually fire on then check your CAS is plugged in as well the ECU and AFM, sounds simple but i forgot about these the first time i tried to turn mine on
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Ok cool thanks for the reply man
Well yeah ive always used what ever is on special in terms of oils, my last drift car only ever got the helix 18$ on special stuff and ran fine every day even with drift abuse.
Either way i guess i was just being paranoid -
Forgot to add my dyno sheet
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Just checked again to see if it's cooled down , it's still freakin hot... My turbos exhaust housing is cooler than my rocker covers right now
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Hi guys I just got my rb25 s13 back from the tuners and thought IDE give it a bit of a test run...
Car info :
made 350rwhp
High mounted kinugawa OIL Cooled only
FMIC mounted with ports at the top
Have an oil cooler and relocation block
Forward facing plenum
Was running cheap penrite 20$ oil
Ok so after letting it idle for a few minutes I went out or a quick drive, then came in and did a few donuts, snapped 2nd gear and done another few donuts, all up it was about 3 or 4 minutes worth of driving, after bringing it
Back in the shop I noticed a oil leak so put it on the hoist and had a look under, my sump plug was hand tight and had no copper washer..... I think I forgot to put on one... What a tool! Anyway I took this opportunity to drop the cheap oil and throw in my penrite racing ten tenths oil, pulled off the sump plug and the oil started rushing out really really fast , it was almost like water and was extremely thin and black, keeping in mind the oil was brand new before Going To the tuners.
In that few of driving and the few hours at the tuners could the oil have gotten so hot that it went black and burnt already ?
After it was done draining I put a new sump plug with a copper washer and lowered the car to put my new oil in, at this point I noticed that my rocker covers and intake plenum were boiling hot, way to hot to touch for more than a few seconds...My oil filter was also boiling hot and the oil cooler was a bit warm, the intercooler was a bit warm.
Is this all normal ? Could having an oil only cooled turbo be contributing ? Or am I just being paranoid ?
Also completely unrelated I noticed that my front wheels do not spin freely , I'm pretty sure they are meant to ? Could my front
Brakes be rooted ?
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1989 Silvia S13
Unknown KMS Rb25 had rings replaced few years ago thats it
KINUGAWA T25G Anti-Surge 4" - Comp. Whee: 60.2/78mm - Turbine Wheel: 54 / 61 mmChina high mount manifold
China front mount cooler
China unknown size wastegate LOL
China greddy copy plenum with non turbo Rb25 Throttle body
550cc Sards
Bosch 040 intank
3" Dump into twin 2.25" Side pipes under passanger door
PowerFC98 BP fuel
Turbosmart bleed valve boost controller
351.5Rwhp / 260RWKW -
well i had it hooked up before like in the picture i posted ( the top right one ) and it didnt boost, so your assumption that it wouldn't work is probably correct, Hence why after switching the lines around to match the photo that 89CAL posted it works now.
its not the first time ive received "instructions" with products that were wrong, my oil cooler instructions were wrong as well, probably lost in the translation from japanese > chinese > english with the china copies get done.
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I think you need to worry about how much power your injectors can handle not how much boost, i ran 20psi on my vg30 turbo on my rb20 and my stock injectors didnt max out because it was probably not making any more power after 15psi lol
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Yeah no bov, never really needed one in any of my cars, never had issues on any of them either, But for the moment i have to go from 4 down to 3 untill i get some proper piping made up which my tuner will be doing before the tune.
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AFM is back to stock position, and coilpacks are brand new OEM nissan coils
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Didnt think turbos were so fussy for oil returns, ive always just went strait from the bung on the turbo into a 19mm rubber hose then into sump ?
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Even though you said there were no signs of oil going through the seals when you bought it, maybe using the wrong oil feed line hasn't supplied it with enough oil and you burnt out the seals causing it to blow smoke?
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Well when i had the lines the other way around it wouldn't even hit 1psi, But this time after switching the lines around and letting it idle and warm up for a bit i gave it a nice rev and it climbed well above, i couldent see exactly how much but im guessing its working now because its actually boosting.
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Ok i switched the lines around and now ive got it to hit boost in neutral ( yes it takes alot of revs ) but im a little scared to try and drive it and see if it works properly under load, i dunno why but after messing with the inj on the powerfc i can get the afr good on idle but then after it warms up and after giving it a bit of revvs it starts to run like crap again, also has alot of smoke but might be because i have side pipes or running rich under revs ....I have a datalogit and copilot but im a little scared to play with that stuff, might leave the rest to the tuner....
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so i have mine setup like the picture in the top right
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Hi thanks for the reply man, I posted link from mobile maybe that's why it doesn't work but the instructions on my hdi boost controller have the ports going the other way around compared to yours ? Might try switch them around then and see what happens ?
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http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=261342047568
Giving this a quick bump, I'm still having a boost issue and wanted to fix it before it goes in for a tune in 6 days as its booked in for a tune only and not anything else, I've set the wastegate ( external ) like shown in the link above , solenoid has 3 ports , port on the left goes to bottom of wastegate , port in middle untouched and port on the right goes to top of wastegate and t-pieced into cold side of turbo....
Does this sound right ? Could having No tune be causing it not to boost ? Specs are ffp, 550cc injectors , z32 afm and td07 turbo
Please be the one to dyno before and after! For your own benefit also.
Kando Dynamics Turbo
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Yeh but I want to get the engine running as efficiently as possible without changing fuels first