stÖrmy
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Posts posted by stÖrmy
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located perth wa. seat is replica btw hence the price.
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400$ no seat rail or 500$ with rail to suit S13.
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Hey guys my drifter needs some cams as its getting a retune + bigger turbo and more more boost. After some nice drop in items, What you got?
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1
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Neec a silvtop rb20det afm to test / buy urgent.
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cool ill have another proper look tommorow, that greddy install page doesnt help with specifics, its for an rb25 and its also not a tophat plenum like mine, and some parts are very vague, ie : the part where he blocks a hose off with a bolt and doesnt say what the hose is and what it does etc.... but ill look through it some more and see if i can spot anything that will help.
im thinking i may have to drop the plenum of to a shop and get some ports welded onto it.
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pic of the coolant lines in question
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pic of the coolant lines in question
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hey all i got a tophat style forward facing plenum, i run an rb20 in my s13 and one of the main reasons i got this plenum is to elimate alot of my intake and intercooler piping as there is no way for me to have a flush sitting bonnet with my setup.
So in short i need to know if i can just tap into the intake plenum anywhere and put the vac lines to it that were on the old manifold, for example ..
- Brake booster to intake plenum - > can i just tap this into anywhere in the new plenum ?
- the 2 x coolant lines that come out of that little block on the old plenum - > what do i do with these? can i just loop the lines together ?
- The pipe that goes from the old plenum to the rocker cover - > can i just tape this anywhere into new plenum? or can i go to a catch can instead?
any other info would be much apreciated, im thinking the vac lines would be easy to sort out but i have no idea what to do with the coolant ones.
ive attached 2 photos, one of the bottom of the intake plenum that shows some already threaded holes in the bottom wich i can tap into for some of the vac lines
and the other photo shows the old plenum with the little coolant block thing with 2 x pipes on it.
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Hey guys dont mean to bump an old thread but thought ide ask anyway.
Ive had my drift car for about a year, have only taken it to the track about 5 times so far, its an r32 gtst, rb20det, nistuned @ 15PSI and making 240ish RWHP, i pretty much am limiter bashing this thing at the track most of the time, hitting 6500-7500rpm regularly.
twice at the track its cut out on me, feeling almost like it completley turns off mid drift for a split second and splutters like crap shooting flames out of the exhaust.
So my question is, out of the 3 or 4 main brands out there including OEM, what are the actual BEST items that survive the most punishment, im not worried about price i just want a good product, im leaning towards OEM but am worried that OEM once might last the longest for normal driving but not for drifting or thrashing?
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pretty sure rebuilt means they use old housings and just put in a new turbine / wheel so it could well have been cracked before and he just got it rebuilt but was to scared to use it. I wouldent use it, does he have reciepts for rebuild? if not then assume its not rebuilt either.
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i use what ever is on special @ 10w40 ( in my drift car )
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Also would it be safe to get all the signal wires from the ECU and port everything i need from there or could this blow the ecu up?
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I dont have a turbo timer though but it must be what your saying as the wiring from the push button start goes to this loom.
So is this no a standard loom found in the 32 then? Im guessing previous owner put it in?
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Yes ive searched and its weird but none of the threads with wiring diagrams have this exact loom, they have diagrams with other looms that have SOME of these wires but not this exact one. The loom only has 5 pins, The colors are below, i need a diagram telling me what each one of the wires is : eg : ign, acc, constant, etc.
Blck / yellow
Black / Red
White / Black
White / Purple
SOLID BLUE
I am re-doing my electrics ( removing all gauges, removing push start system, removing boost controller and removing safc ) as its all over the place and dangerous at the moment so im taking it all out and making a custom panel with sources to feed off ( am hoping to feed of this loom as it used to power my push start setup.
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yeah when normal driving it leaks but with track work it leaks 10x worse ( after drift prac it had leaked all over the place ) ive only filled it like normal, not right to the brim, but even if its over filled it shouldent leak ey?
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Anyone ever have issues with there power steering reservoir leak from the TOP where the cap is on there r32 gtst? Ive looked a few times and found LOTS of fluid leaking from the top but from what i can see the seal on the cap looks fine?....
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As a spray painter, It makes me sad when people still use acrylic. it just gives you more work at the end of the job!
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As a spray painter, It makes me sad when people still use acrylic
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As a spray painter, It makes me sad when people still use acrylic
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As a spray painter, It makes me sad when people still use acrylic
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think i got it now....pictures below.. look right?
First pic refering to :
If you look just in front of the engine cross member, you will see a few power steering lines (steel pipes). one of these goes into a high pressure fitting and then into the hicas solenoid. get a hacksaw and cut through this steel pipe, connect your hose onto it, hose clamp it and feed it up through the car.Second pic refering to :
On the line that goes back the solenoid you will see a short ~15cm long moulded rubber hose held on with hose clamps. take this off and then put your other hose that you just put on from the bottom onto the aluminium pipe, not into the solenoid, then hose clamp it. -
ive had 275s on a 9" rim so 265 on a 10.5 will be perfectly fine, you could even go 295 it will fit no probs
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Yup i need to loop at the front as i removed all the rear hicas stuff and the lines. its just hard to tell what is what from the pictures in those guides because theres alot of lines under car and in the engine bay. will have another look tommorow
High Mount Turbo Orientation On Rb20
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Have successfully spun around the exh / core / comp housing to get them facing the right way but was just wondering if theres a proper way to identify the oil feed vs the oil return ? This turbo has 2 normal banjo style fittings which im assuming are for the water feed / water return, and has 2 oil return style flanges....
Would it be an issue to have the oil feed into the side and come out of the side? or does it need to feed the top and come out the bottom? i can rotate the core for any config but i cant tell which is feed and return so i thought i might be able to just leave them on the side so either way it might be ok?
its a PCP / KKR style china spec turbo, yes i know its not suited to the rb20 and it will be laggy as f**k but its a track car and im used to drifting with lag.