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Aitch

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Everything posted by Aitch

  1. You'll also need to keep the boost low, around 0.7 I believe, not that I've done this but someone on the UK site, www.skylineowners.com has. Aitch
  2. I fitted a new Blitz exhaust sytem a few months back, took it off and sold it a week later. Car's N/A and lost too much back pressure, went all sloppy and sad, though I did fit a decat unit at the same time. I decided to keep the decat as it releases more power than just the exhaust, and as I prefer the ferrrari snarl to the big base drum row it's super! Aitch
  3. Fortunately for DBA there's more to their disc design than most folk realise, and even though I got a pair with a flaw in the casting on one set I still rate them! The design deploys proven engineering principles from other unrelated products, it simply adds a dash of hype and a twist for marketing purposes. (misguided or not!) A major problem with vented discs is warp and cracking, the DBA's appear to reduce this hugely, follows the why.. The very old design of standard discs offers scope aplenty for both warp and cracks, lovely straight lines (support vanes) for cracks to follow and large unsupported areas of disc face to warp. This design is worthy of the description antique, it's obsolete, which in practical engineering terms translates as "needs frequent replacement". The paw design of the DBA's may sound like a gimmick, but in engineering perspective it's actually anything but. If you look at the disc and examine the paw support areas, you will see there are no straight lines to encourage or support fracture propagation, quite the converse. The individual support pads overlap in such a way as to very effectively inhibit cracks, it does this very very efficiently. If you look again at those pads, you will also see that unlike normal discs, the unsupported areas of disc face are minimal, offering less warp potential. A third benefit is that due to the additional support of the disc faces, breaking pressure is better utilised, increasing braking for any given pedal pressure. To demonstrate this, try sawing or drilling a piece of 16swg steel sheet supported on trestles or blocks, now do the same excercise again with more support, or with the sheet on a table top or the ground. The same action and pressure will work much more effectively when smaller areas are left unsupported. The DBA's benefit greatly from the paw design, intentional, or just patriotic hype aside! I cannot comment on the efficiency of the airflow with this design, as it would require a different skillset than my own to offer valid opinion in that area. I can however tell you something important about the discs temperature efficiency based on third party information though.. My local garage has some sort of temp sensor equipment, a gun they just seem to point at the discs for brake problem analysis. This equipment showed a 15% reduction in temperature of the DBA discs compared to the original Nissan discs when each was measured after the run from my home to the garage... Aitch
  4. No, this is the sports wheel, as on the S type. If you P.M your vin number I'll give you the factory specs for your motor. Aitch
  5. Many R33's have the dual mode muffler fitted by owners who want the preformance but don't want too much noise. It's not the best indicator therefore. Check the steering wheel, should be sports verasion. Aitch
  6. That looks a nice job, should get around the hot air problem fine. I wanted to actually get more air in than the standard intake duct could provide, due to size / volume restrictions, which is why I went the hard way. Aitch
  7. If you provide your vin number I can tell you the part number Aitch
  8. There are any number of suppliers in the UK, several at least. You have no choice as to mechanical or electronic, the R33 is electronic, R32 AND EARLIER ARE MECHANICAL. If a good quality dual purpose unit (kph to mph & delimiter) is fitted properly there's no HICAS problem I've noted, and I've done it. Do not use a 4 wire unit. Try a search on www.skylineowners.com, the UK forum, there are a few threads on this issue. Aitch
  9. Hi all, I have a GTS-S type, first way to recognise it is the sports steering wheel with the centre Skyline S as on the front grille, same as GTR I believe. It does run more power and has a few other tweeks, some stated in other posts. It's a farely rare model I gather. If anyone want's to know their exact liner spec, P.M me your vin number and I'll send you a full factory spec for that specific motor. I have the Nissan database, pump in the vin and all is revealed! Brake pads and discs for the S type are same as the GTS4. DBA discs are available, order DBA953S for slotted discs. Nissan original front pads are NIS41060AA190, rears are NIS44060AG089. The S type brakes are only compatible with the GTS4. Hope this helps. Aitch
  10. OK, mod modded to stage 2, ie. rubber door seal changed for better method. I have now fitted a 110mm drain gasket seal, obtained from my local builders supplies centre. The centre of this rubber seal was cut out with a stanley knife, the hole in the airfilter lid was cut with 102mm hole saw. I have retained the cutout and keep it in the glove box, until I prove over time that water doesn't effect anything. If it does at any time during my tests, I can pop the cutout inside the rubber seal to close off the spare intake temporarily. I'm not 100% happy with the fit or security of the stick on intake, but will add a couple of small screws through the bonnet from underneath and into the intake base flange, would probably use small ground down self tappers. I could not find another intake small enough which was cut in. Under bonnet soundproofing had to be cut of course, and eventually I will seal the edges. I also had to cut 6 or 7mm off the top of the rubber fitting used for the seal as it was too high. I will also stick a spot of glue around the bottom edge eventually to prevent it working down inside the air box. The liner's been out all night, and on the spare drive which has no shelter whatsoever. Bonnet and intake therefore showing plenty of water as it snowed lightly during the night. I'm waiting for some serious rain over a distance to determine how much if any gets through. First mod if it does will be to add another mesh at the entrance of the scoop. This would be vertical and inclined slightly forward at the top, hopefully encouraging moisture droplets to hit the mesh and fall outside the intake..and if that fails a couple of small up and over baffles siliconed inside the scoop will do it. Been out 2 days now since mod, once in light to medium rain and today in light snow, not a stutter. I notice there's a small 2mm diameter hole in the rear of the intake scoop, plus a slot around 30mm long and 1mm deep at the base along one side. These could I suppose be to encourage any heavier than air droplets etc to exit straight through.. The original intake is twice the width of this but not quite so deep, located just under and behind the front lip of the bonnet. I frequently find flies etc in the panel filter, indicating that rain droplets could also enter through that original intake, but I've never had a problem nor heard of anyone else with one. I deliberately avoided standard louvres in favour of this intake, as it's covered with only the front open. I can soon mod to totally prevent moisture ingress if it's required, so far it's been fine. If you feel very strongly about this but wish to do the mod, there's an intake which has the opening at the side instead of the front.. Pic's at link below, used my own space to save the load on the forum. Please note, David Bailey I am not! http://www.netpostbag.com/~user0448/ Aitch
  11. As I've now tried all of these options and others over the past year, on a non turbo 2.5L, GTS-S R33, I have found the best option to be none of the above, all of which are a compromise. I have now completed my latest effort, and it's heaps better than the usual mods. It benefits from the best points from the other options but has none of the downsides. It also produces the gains I was seeking, and it's easy. I purchased a small bonnet vent, nothing huge, this came from Demon Tweeks (UK). I can't recall the part number but can look it up if needed. It's a raised scoop about 7" x 5" x 1.25" high. This is sat over a hole I cut in the bonnet over the air intake box, around 90mm x 60mm. I then cut a piece of very small form alloy mesh to fit inside the scoop, sat flat on the bonnet over the hole, I sprayed the mesh to match the car colour. I used the mesh for fibreglass bodywork reinforcement as it's alloy, has small pattern and was £1.50 for about a square foot at Halfords. I then cut a corresponding hole in the airbox lid, then glued a piece of door trim rubber around the hole, the bonnet sits on this to seal when closed. I now have a second direct cold air intake, but retaining the original sealed airbox system, which now has a Nismo panel filter in. I did this mod after decatting, as I felt that whilst I had made gains with the decat unit the motor was not flowing to maximum potential, it is now! For those preferring an even more subtle bonnet intake, I also found a very small flat louvre panel..indeed I ensured the hole I cut in the bonnet was suitable to to fit this later if the wife didn't like the small raised scoop. If the mod ever requires reversing it's a simple matter to patch the bonnet from underneath and spray up on top. Aitch
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