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Ahh32

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Posts posted by Ahh32

  1. Is there anyone in QLD that has an eprom burner to remap my RB20 ECU.

    i have a chip in already that suits the gtr injectors and Z32 afm and 15psi.

    so i just need someone to tune the fuel maps to suit my new turbo and higher boost.

  2. Unfortunately i don't live within 900kms of a race track, so if something does go bang at the track, it is long way to push my car back home.

    My motor was fully rebuilt (std)a few months ago. but my dad put a bit of it together, due to my work commitments. anywho, he didn't check the ring gap cause he thought i did, and i hadn't yet. so the end result is low compression in all, and oil in number 1. hence why i want to do it properly this time.

    My new list of parts are: Tomei 82mm pistons

    Tomei 1mm head gasket

    Tomei cam gears X2

    HKS GTRs kit

    other stuff: Bore engine

    new exhaust gasket

    gates timing belt

    ECU remap

    New rear tyres

    ROY: idler bearings are $120 for idler $160 for tensioner i think from memory

  3. woo up there ice cube..

    1. suggestions about my RB24 build.

    i have some people to prove wrong.

    if i still had my RB25de i would have built a 25/30 a long time ago.

    i would love a 30 but i decided to go the 24 route because i just did.

    5-6psi more boost will be overcome by higher CR

    other than that a 20 sounds better.

    DANGEROUS_DAVEO: i prefer beef wrapped in bacon

    P.S. MMOOOOOOO

  4. Well i am finally going to rebuild my engine properly. RB2?. will either be a 23 or 24 depends if i can find some RB26 bits in time or not.

    will be using tomei pistons and 1.0mm head gasket.

    hi-flowed RB25 turbo (SK comments convinced me)

    Going for 240-260rwkws

    Date of start is the 01 of March, this year

    ohh ditching my four puck for a carbon clutch too.

    any suggestions or tips.

    IS there a good tuner to re-map the stock ecu in QLD. my guy pissed off up north.

    P.S> i have everything else to support my power levels.

  5. Just pulled my motor out again. i was going to go the bottom route but. after pulling the crossmember and steering rack off there are 4 pipes for the p/steering/ 4ws, i didn't wanna take these off so i went out the top again. took the G/box off first. took less than an hour, easiest part. jack the front of the motor up a bit to get to the top g/box bolts with a long extension. rattle gun and swivel helps too.

    with the top starter motor bolt. i used several extensions, 14mm socket. . connect them together until the ratchet is above the alternator and then undo or tighten from there. easy.

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