SCRMER
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Posts posted by SCRMER
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Have you considered directly measuring the resistance of the sender as you go through the charade? The temperature may not in fact be moving at all (if the fault is at the gauge for example). Or the sender could be crook, in which case you'd see its resistance going up and down, but would not see it with a different sender inserted there.
etc.
Honestly no, but both hoses are getting hot and cold as it is going through this process. The top not so much of course but you can feel the temp change
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you sure there isnt a dickload of air in there?
With the amount of bleeding we done, and the water that it took on you'd think there isnt. That was our first point to try at the start but after we bled and bled and bled the system it seemed like we were done. We tried it from scratch multiple times.
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Considered it yes. The MFD, standard gauge and Power FC all showing similar levels
You can feel through the hoses when it's heating up and cooling down though
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Hi All,
I wanted to ask for some advice as i have come to my wits end with this issues i have been having.
The premise is, i have a r34 gtr that has had a rebuild of the bottom end. Pistons/Rods etc. The head was left untouched and really the only thing else that was change in the motor was the comp ratio up to 9-1. To go with it all i had upgraded to a new KOYO radiator and replaced all the hoses, thermostat and water pump to new just to give it all a freshen up.
Motor started up first go, and runs great. Compression is good, doesnt miss a beat in terms of how it is running and how the tune is.
The main issue is the temperature. It will sit in the 60's for a while once it has started warming up, then rapidly rise to around 80 in the space of about 3-5 seconds. Give the car some revs and it then drops rapidly down to 60's again. It will stay there for 30 seconds then rise up to 100 in the space of 3-5 seconds, again give it a few revs around 3k, it drops off back into the 60's in the same amount of time. Then will rise up to 110, and back down then 120 and back down until it will sit at 120 and you need to turn the car off and let it cool to start the process again.
Now what have we done to trouble shoot?
1. First up it sounded like a sticking thermostat since it is new. Took it out put it in hot water and saw it barely open so naturally we replaced it and same problem. Tested the new one we replaced and was opening fine. Got a 3rd thermostat and still did not solve the problem. So we are ruling that out.
2. Thought there may have been some bleeding issues with the motor as it sounded like a air pocket was doing the rapid temp rise and fall as RB's can be a little troublesome to bleed. Spent 2 days trying different methods such as having the front jacked up, heater on, letting it idle and cool down etc to bleed it and still have the same issue
3. Tried a second new water pump. Didnt solve the problem
4. Pressure tested the Radiator and all was fine
5. Vacuumed the system, all fine, problem still persists
So now we are not sure what to do. Not sure where the problem is. Dont know if it is the new radiator that is causing the issue or is it something to do with how the motor was built. My mechanic is just about to pull the motor back out and take a look at the head gasket in case something is wrong there as we both can't figure out what to do.
Wondering if anyone has come across a problem like this or has any suggestions to what we could try before having to pull everything back out again
Cheers
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How is the order coming along, Longz?
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Put me down for a R34 GTR front splitter
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Got any pics of the R34 GTR Front splitter? Is it identical to standard but CF?
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For sale is a brand new, unopened, still in the packet, RB26 JUN oil pump drive collar.
I bought this from RHD Japan 2 weeks ago to go with my new oil pump but my mechanic had already sent my crank away and got a collar put on it without me knowing.
I paid $143 at the time for it
Sale Price : $110 delivered anywhere in Australia
Located Sydney, NSW
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After a set of new or 2nd hand (good condition) Forged pistons and rods for an Rb26 rebuild im about to undertake
PM what you got and what size
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HI Guys,
Looking for an Aftermarket sump baffles for my Rb26. Something such as Tomei or any decent brand.
Cheers
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I am currently with Lumley paying just under $1600 for my 34 GTR. Just called NRMA and mentioned SAU which they seemed delighted to hear about. They offered me cover for $700. Happy to agree to the value i stated the car to be and up to $3000 in towing if i was more than 100kms away from home. Very impressed and will be cancelling with Lumley, as soon as my car reaches that 15 year mark and move over to NRMA
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From my understanding, pre Jan 2000 are Sharp and Jan 2000 onwards are Toshiba (i could be a month or 2 off but it is around those dates). But as Chris mentioned about the ribbon cables if you feel like taking it out first and having a look
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Had the same problem. The actual LCD screen needs to be replaced. Very easy to do yourself and there are a few DIY guides to help.
There are a few people on these forums that have a few brand new screens they are trying to sell. I picked 1 up for around $200 if i remember correctly.
if you need any help, let me know
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Found one
Thanks
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Hi just after a working R34 GTR boost sensor that sits near the drivers side firewall.
Pickup or delivery. I am located in Sydney NSW
Thanks
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How much would it cost to ship the block and crank to Sydney?
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Just noticed he took all the videos about the GTR off youtube. All three of videos, gone now.
I looked at the videos just before they went off. Someone made comments about how this car had fake papers, clock wound back and that they have all the photos to prove it. An hour later and the video was gone.
haha maybe he is starting to realise he wont get away with what he is doing so easily anymore!
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Is this car meant to be a non vspec?. No rear diffuser and the interior looks like it is straight out of a Vspec II.
So many signs point to this car being pieced together.
I nearly got sucked in by Phil at one point but im glad i stood my ground and went to JOC to prove that he is a piece of shit and we should all be doing what we can to prevent this criminal activity
Take your money and run. Do not negotiate with this scum.
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Keen on an R34 GTR kit!
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Looks good.
Id be interested if there is enough interest and the price is right!
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Hey Mate,
What size are the pod filter elements?
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Hi,
Do they happen to offer a Carbon Fibre cooling panel for an R34 GTR?. I see there is one for a GTT
Cheers
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Is there any chance of sneaking in an order or is it too late??
Rb26 Temp Rising And Falling Rapidly
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
We never got it to those speeds. Just normal driving around the streets. It performed the same whether it was going 60km/s or just idling. Temp would rise and fall at the same rate. Everything i read tells me it is air, but we can't find any air left!