Risking
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Posts posted by Risking
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The best part about a lotus.....
We built the owner an S15 and while that was happening the exige lived ontop of the mezzanine floor
It did come back down
It's not a lotus but you'll like this one anyway Troy
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I'd never own a lotus either but building one like this is always good.
Ill throw up some photos of the body work and other bits that are done this week. Basically everything from the original car went in to bin and has been replaced.
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Something different that's being built at pro fabrication race engineering for one of our customers. The owner has had a number of lotus' in the past from rover k series to Toyota powered Elise's and also some other production cars like celica's and recently a brand spanker ford focus RS.
The idea of this exige was to create his ultimate lotus that was uncompromised.
The base car was bought from NZ with a Honda K series engine and the homologated Jackson supercharger kit.
After a couple of races the car was stripped down to a Bare alloy chassis and the rebuild began.
The engine was overhauled buy a well know lotus Toyota engine builder Neil trumma.
While the engine was away a 70L bladder tank was installed and a new integrated surge tank was built.
Using an aeromotive pump hanging off the bottom to feed the surge, the surge is feeding a single Bosch pump externally. The reg was mounted to the tank to keep everything compacted and easy to locate.
Catch can was done next to sit behind the engine
Engine came back with instructions to build the mother of all exhaust systems. The owner has a lot of respect for the engine builder (his engines have been beating him for years so kinda gotta listen to him now) and work begun on the exhaust.
Plans are to do the system in titanium once the stainless version has been tested and modified if required.
The rest of the exhaust is 4inch with a funnel outlet that will create a basic blown diffuser.
Justin from pro wire is coming in to wire the entire car and install the Haltech Ecu, race pak smart wire and all the data logging gear.
Next up is the mounts for the air jack system and all the fuel system plumbing.
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It's been a while since I looked at one but doesn't the NEO engine have two more oil drains at the front of the head than the older RB25's ?
That would be why they removed the external vent.
The 2jz has massive head to crank case drains in the head and block, 4G63's have good sized drains, the SR20 (being a chain drive) has the whole front timing case to vent crank pressure. The RB26 has rubbish oil returns.
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The bottle is relevant as a basic concept that most people can relate to and grasp why the concept works.
Your right most people just think because there is oil in the head and the hose is going down it must be a drain. For oil to go down air must come up. Flooded factory head returns won't allow air to come up so the covers fill with oil and over flow.
Nissan knew this and the RB25 has a crack case vent to the head.
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Because the idea is for oil to NOT go down the hose. The idea is for air to go up the hose to allow oil to go down the original oil returns in the block which are inadequate.
The best way to do the crankcase breather is so run a hose from the crank case to the top of the catch can not the head.
This point has been argued for along time in this thread and others.
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Pisa off Joey.... Heaps of life left in them haha
If you run 4deg neg camber they'll be right for another 5000k's.....
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Holly crap they are f**ked.
That car has never had anything to do with CRD.
It was bought from a Sydney dealer that the owner is less than impressed with and the work has been done by JEM, he spent a good hour telling me the cars entire history from purchase up till 4 days ago when he was heading to JEM for the eboost.
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i think i was better off using the steel braid of the semis as my contact to the road then the peices of crap i have now
Are those tires that were on your car still going?
They were screwed two weeks ago when I seem them.....
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That R33 on JEM's dyno?
That's correct.
I'd assume that video could have been taken the other day when he took it back to JEM to have the eboost re installed after it was repaired.
It is a very clean car, the majority of it is quality components too.
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That's actually an interesting question. If you weld the drain above oil level, then it is actually a pathway upwards for crankcase gases, which would be worse. If you weld it below oil level, then it will have an inbuilt airlock.
Not really correct.
The fundamental problem is crankcase pressure not being able to escape the crank case to allow oil to flow from top to bottom. ( for oil to flow down unhindered air needs to flow up unhindered )
You want the "drain" to be above the oil level so the air can travel up the hose into the head so the oil can travel down the original oil returnsin the block. When you stuff the oil returns full of oil the air can't escape the crank case and the rocker covers just fill up.
It's been proven time and time again the crank case needs to be vented to the head or catch can etc to allow the oil drains to work properly. You not draining the head to the sump your venting the crankcase to the head to allow oil to flow down the original drains.
T into the turbo drain won't work. There is oil flowing down the turbo drain tube air can't get up it. Below the oil level is no good as air can't get into the hose to escape the crank case.
GTSboy surely you know what happens when you invert a bottle of water, flow is hindered as air goes back up the bottles neck. Put a hole in the bottle at the top and let air in then the flow is unhindered and consistent the same principal reversed is what's happening inside the crankcase?
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That white 33 is from lithgow.
The owner is a really polite, down to earth guy, I believe he is on SAU from time to time.
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I've fabricated these for two cars which are now getting Titanium systems done instead to keep weight down.
Both are done from mild steel with simple cannon mufflers at the rear.
Both will be reasonably loud and have been designed for race applications.
* R32 4inch cat back exhaust. Has V band at the cat end and is all 4 inch mandrel bent to the 4 inch muffler at the rear
Also has a cat deletion section that is tapered to drop down to a 3 inch two bolt flange so it can be bolted to any set of front pipes.
Asking $990 pick up only postage is too much drama
* R33 3.5inch car back exhaust. Same Vband type setup at the R32 system above with the same tappered cat pipe to a 2 bolt 3 inch flange. 3.5imch cannon muffler at the rear.
Asking $880 pick up only.
Both exhausts are currently 90% completed and can be welded up within a day or so ready to install. (If unsold ill cut the tack welds off and use the material for other systems)
These size materials are not cheap and these systems are fully TIG welded with quality vband clamps.
Located in Campbeltown Sydney.
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Hopefully car will be back in a couple of weeks from paint then reassembly can begin.
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I have done them similar for the GTR in the past but haven't taken any decent photos
Problem with the skyline is that there is so many different rotor diameters people use and making them a one size fits all is impossible to do so they are neat and effective.
I've got a set to do next week on a GTR with ex touring car brakes and 378 mm rotors.
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Here is some basic yet very effective brake ducts some guys might be interested in trying to do.
These are on an FT86
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Looks like we are sending a set the same as these over to the UK.
There has been some massive interest in them from the other side of the world where lotus' are massive.
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Lotus pipes
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That one was sold.
However I received your email and will send a replys out today to all.
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You'll find most driveshaft places (metro) included use CDS tube for their shafts. Nothing wrong with it at all just it's mild steel and far cheaper to the general consumer.
I normally buy 4130 tube from race tech steel, joints from hardy spicer and assemble the shaft myself. Then drop it off at Harry's to be balanced. It's the only way to know exactly what material went into the shaft.
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Can't laser cut them untill each bar has been orientated in the car to find the center line (knotch center lines are usually slightly different at each end too) then you still need to string it up to find the angle and length.
I know people who have tried getting them laser cut but they end up scrapping a lot of material and buying a knotcher.
There is 18 junctions in a basic 6 point cage. Getting all of those measured to have tube laser cut in one go is impossible as one bar often effects the next.
There are companies overseas which supply cage kits pre cut and knotched but everyone I've seen being fitted has required work on the joints to make it right still.
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It'll fit anything with an RB25 and the neo uses the same head flange so yes
Rear Knuckle Material Specifications?
in Fabrication
Posted
I wouldn't say that's a common problem with a Nissan rear end at all.
I've never seen that particular breakage before. I've seen cracked & broken subframes (we are repairing one at the moment in an S15) and broken arms but never an upright like that.