StageZilla
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Posts posted by StageZilla
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i got the tunnel brace in the bottom left corner and the strut brace for the front is stock on rs fours anyway
260rs aint that far up the ladder as suggested
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Where did you score your tunnel brace and what it set you back?
As far as structual rigidity, i plan on gettin the doluck rear cross brace (front seat belt anchor to anchor) and a towbar should help heaps too.
To be honest, from this discussion i think many people just assume that the 260RS is just better full stop, but in the end, how much could autech ACTUALLY do to it. Also many people may not be wanting to modify a car and prefer to have a "ready to drive" car.
For my power target, i am now seeing that its probably better to keep my RS4 and modify it. Sure 270awkw isnt hard in a 260rs, but considering the fact that i would still probably need to swap a few things out anyway, the RS4 will teach me a lot more and also be on par/better in many aspects (suspension, SOME driveline parts, brakes (maybe, we'll see))
hmmm......
came with the car, and i didnt realise it was autech (thought it was stock rs four) until jake32 posted the autech mods pics and list and its the tunnel brace halfway between the diff and the gearbox. so much for a stock car hey, found a few wires coming off the factory ecu for a SAFC that must have been hooked up in japan, and it had autech version and 260rs badges on it, plus mirror tint on the rear window. some young hoon wishing he had the 260rs hehe, or should i say ricer with the badges
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just my 0.2 worth...no modded stagea is the same as a 260RS ..a lot more was done to this car than bolt on bits: ie ..body stress plates in c pillar ...,undercar chassis brace,tunnel brace all unique to this car.. all this is something "stagezilla" will find out why once his 2.7 is dropped into std shell.... bodykit is "functional" autech R& D for cooler flow high speed downforce..not the prettiest but it works..brakes have been perfectly matched to power and weight
having owned the 260 for 18mths now 12 mths on the road and have driven the 2.5 auto there is no comparison really ..you just wouldn`t bother modifying anything when autech have done such a excellent job allready..they are different cars altogether..and to think you or anyone could build the same or equal in your backyard or mates workshop is at best .."dreaming"..
just save up the peso`s and buy the REAL thing ....
then modify that
all the braces are transferable from the 260rs to the rs four as ive got the 260rs tunnel brace already on there, and there are threaded spots for the front brace under the gearbox bellhousing, and only thing is the c pillar mods, nothing a roll cage wouldnt fix when it does a high 10 one day :lol: got r34 brembos too, and all gtr axles, so its missing the kit, which i'd rather get something better looking imo. (no im not saying the 260rs is crap, just the rs four isnt as far behind as u make besides the driveline) and im sure the 260rs stock susp would be 100 times better than the rs four making the handling "soo much better" as u said. anyone with a rs four would be planning suspension mods to lower it and fix the handling anyway
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considering this i would prefer the opinions of customers.... i am new to perth and hence would like some direction. I really would like some opinions of mods and recommendations still for shops. its ok i am a big boy i can decifer it all....
no point going to a shop that cant tune my stuff or supply the parts required...
but thanks for the replies thus far...
as NIB said, this forum is abit biased, and all the bad comments about a few "reccomended shops" get deleted because they pay money to keep a good reputation on here anyway!
prepare to wait for any major work with these shops as they take for f**kin ever.
check out my rant thread which got locked a few weeks back in the WA section, and i recieved plenty of similiar feedback from other people on the forums.
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nice. did you polish the plenum yourself? it looks very nice
yep polished it at home on the buffer (my old mans the polishing guru), its a pain in the arse and a messy job but looks sooo much better than tacky painted stuff everywhere.
ive polished the plenum, throttle bodies, alternator, intercooler piping, rocker covers, centre coil covers, timing cover, CAS, catch can, and a few other bits and pieces.
if i had to do it myself i dont think i'd have the patience, but when its free and done by someone else its well worth it :lol:
all the bits where polished 3 years ago now when i first had the rb26 in the VL calais. so they stay pretty clean, except they need an occasional buff over it all to get greasy fingerprints off, and show the mirror finish again.
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ok .. i think ive achieved the same thing, im positive its boosting a lot harder than 4psi. just really not sure if its boosting too hard.
heres what ive done .. simpy joined the 2 pipes together (the top and bottom pipes that went into the boost solenoid).
i have read posts where people are doing all sorts of different variations of modifying this but some are finding its sendin the boost right up to bout 20psi.
Is it possible from the way i have done it to be runnin that high?
Before it felt debatable as to it even being turbo ...now no mistaking it, does this sound normal? can just a few psi make such a significant difference?
Sorry makes it a lil hard as i only found out where the boost solenoid was last night, and the wastegate actutaor i still have no idea.
cheers Lee
i suggest a boost gauge before u do any major damage, it could be running without a wastegate line and be free boosting, you never know, though my old rb30et from 6-10psi was a huge difference in power and made 6 psi feel like half throttle (seriously).
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hey guys i spent a full day cleaning up the intake section between the throttle bodies and the head yesterday, smoothing and getting all the pitted cast shit off so its silky smooth
(rb26 engine with stock plenum and 6 x throttle bodies)when i bolt the intake section to the head, the head ports are alot bigger and theres a step down into the head ports of about 2-3mm all the way around. same with the throttle bodies onto the intake section and with the plenum onto the throttle bodies.
so the ports are getting bigger every time they meet the next flange, so is this ok, or is it worth matching them exactly? and how do i get the gasket to sit perfectly central as even with the locator lugs it can move around a few mm's? its like a 3mm edge all the way around so i'd be removing alot of metal to get em to match properly.
worth it or not? any other tips on cleaning up these areas?
cheers
Brad
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hey i've got a 1993 r32 gtr we have replaced coil pack, plugs, fuel filter given it an extra general service and even swapped over the ignition module and the car is still running like crap..... when it is cold it runs like a dream but as soon as the engine gets hot it starts breaking down to the extent that the engine will cut out.
just wondering if anyone has ever experienced this kinda problem if so your help would be greatly appreciated thanks cass
Air flow meters maybe?
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the gt42 was lowish boost, i think around 20psi from memory, the t04z is on 18psi, and the r34 bb turbos i dont know, and the highflows are 18psi.
the t04z graph is simon (r32 GTS) on this forum on low boost (made 620hp i think recently on 23psi)
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stay well away from venolia forged pistons i've heard (they sell em in the High octane shop in a full rebuild kit for $5000 with rods, gaskets. etc)
lots of bad reports on them, but i hear High octane offer other brands now because of the issues.
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heres a dyno graph all readings are on the same dyno (different days though) and they are on the same graph to read easier.
they are all rb26 engines with rebuild bottom ends (except the highflowed turbos engine which is dead stock). they are all stock capacity and the t04z engine and gt42 engine have different cams to stock.
there is a...
GT42 with 1.0 housing
garret T04Z 0.84 housing
r34 ball bearing low mounts
r32 highflowed stock turbos
here ya go...
cheers
Brad
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the comment about if u saw a cop drivin next to you is true, u immediately start thinking, shit they are gonna book me, or pull me up or whatever, but in a regular commodore (later model, stock as) i feel like who gives a shit and they dont even take a slight glance at me, but in my old vl commodores (which where turbo and modified) they would hassle u straight away and even when u travelling down a dual lane road and they are coming the opposite way they would chuck a u-turn and turn the lights on pull me up, and i was only cruisin along like any regular car on the same road
this is the main reason for buying the stagea
sleeper and its still a skyline and 4wd also for traction.i think cops need some more important things to do than hassle people driving normally down surburban roads for no reason.
like these Random breath testing setups they have like over 20 cops there. y the hell do they need 20 cops, when only 3-4 actually are doin stuff and the rest and just walking around doin nuthin or others sitting around, and then the occasional ones who say "pop ya bonnet" when u just think they are gonna let u go. B)
if the cops want respect than they gotta some some to the car enthusiasts first. i think some of it is jeleousy and they dont like the fact younger guys are drivin gtr's and wrx's etc when in their day they woulda been in a $200 corona or kingswood lol
cheers
Brad
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I had no problem over the pits with 10inch rims on my wifes R32 GTR or twin Atmo BOVs .pods ,and even the catch can so i guess its the inspector on the day to a large extent.
the system sucks, its so unpredictable. could get screwed over by cops or they let ya go, and then the pits r exactly the same B)
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nice chrissy present for ya self
show us some pics, I can't image a lemon coloured R32.....
i think he means lemon as in dodgy and has problems. not the colour (no offence meant to the owner btw) :lol:
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cheers guys, the purple vl i sold at the start of this year and its now running the stagea rb25 with a z32 300tt 5 speed, and i took the 26 out and its in the stagea.
the guy who bought it used to come on here occasionally, but i havent spoke to him since the sale, so i dont know whats the go with it now.
looked nice and went hard and sure turned heads, but cops also turn their heads so i decided to sell for something with abit more modern parts inside and the sleeper appearance plus 4wd traction, as i couldnt imagine leaving the purple vl anywhere at shops or outside nightclubs or something, some wanker would scratch it or even steal it.
my aim was a feature in zoom or street commodores with that car but i had soo many issues in the 3 years of the ownership i didnt get it running correctly before i changed my mind to go with a stagea.
cheers
Brad
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Good work Brad, things are looking good!!
I deal with workshops that are actually going to do the job, only way of quality control.
I know I may of mentioned this before but Greg from Proengines (username: proengines) does some excellent work. He has always been honest, reliable and he even does the followup after the job is done!!
Anyway shims are not too bad to sort out, even when you think you ordered the right sizes they do at times need adjusting, just time consuming stuff but easy.
Merry christmas to all!!
Adam
PS. I know your running the Autronic SMC with Autronics CDI, what coils are you running?
Just finished my CDI install - Autronics SMC , now with Autronics CDI & running 6 x Mercury Outboard Coils.
msd coil packs im using
and the shims are easy to sort out but the fact they are wrong and i pay a shop to sort it and i get the wrong gear supplied, just frustrating after the 6 month wait for machining and i thought i could finish the whole engine this weekend, or this next week and now i gotta source more shims between boxing day and new years which i doubt will be enough time.
i just want it running dammit
proengines (greg) has been very helpful online with my queries, and if i did it all again i'd use him for the machining and stuff rather than these local "gurus"
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who cares, its a VL
look better than r31's thats for sure so stick ya rude comments elsewhere
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cf bonnets cant have open, rear facing vents, and scoops need to conform to some size regulations (cant block view, etc)
tinting is a strict 35% on ALL windows, excluding the front, which may have 35% in the top 10% of the window.
or if using reflective tint, the above applies but at 10%, and no coloured tint.
and pretty much anything that vents from your engine(bov, wastegate, catch cans, etc) must exit through a cat-ed, muffled, exhaust
im pretty sure the rear seat windows can be as dark as u want, and only the front 2 windows and back screen need to be the 35% limit.
like a panel van or wagon can paint there rear windows (except rear glass) black if they want.
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go the big t04z, join the always expanding t04z owners club
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i reckon vl's are the worst setup suspension and diff wise, for traction, with my old rb26 traction was a total 0% of the time, i mean at any speed i could plant it and light the tyres. with the stagea in only 2wd mode with the same setup rb26 (350rwhp) it was a beast and traction was sooo much better and the tyres obviously contact the road alot better. dunno about a R32 GTS-T for traction, but i'd have to say on a rolling run the rb30 should win. dunno about a standing start.
VL is around 1350kg Minimum for a executive and the calais is around 1400-1450kg i think.
my bet is the 3L torque and lighter car will win in the end.
let us know when u do race and the outcome
cheers
Brad
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looking good champ = merry christmas
cheers mate, merry xmas to all too
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So what, if anything, did you end up doing with the sump and the squish areas in the head?
PS. Where do you live so I can tell.. er... santa clause which chimney to go down
haah lol, well the sump is staying as is, as i had a good look at it and the whole oil pickup is full of oil and the area in the trapdoor is FULL to the brim, so how can 8 or so litres of oil all run away from the pickup when the sump doesnt even have much more capacity, and the baffles stop it goin to the rear of the sump mostly, but i reckon if the whole back of the sump was full it still would have alot of oil around the pickup. 8L in a like 10L area cant leave much room. also cant extend it on the drivers side because of the front diff and i'd never be able to remove the diff internals. only option is to go lower, but its flush with the x-member so i dont want it any lower.
personally i cant see the stagea being a track racer or anything, maybe a practice track day once or twice, but thats all, mainly street use, and also occasional drags to see what its capable of with the 1800kg body weight B)
squish area i am leaving as is, and only time will tell wether its the right decision or not
assembled my head totally yesterday and find out the head shop stuffed up the shim thickness and ordered custom made 4.9mm thick shims, and we only need 3.17 shims MAX or close to that, so i dont have a bloody clue where this moron worked out 4.9mm which is HUGE, stock shims are 2.7-3.02 or something. one major stuff up, and also stripped the cam stud bolts in the head, and found out the head guy had already stripped 3 of em and helicoiled em, and so we fixed the other few and now its fine. just waiting till tuesday to sort these shims out. none of the valves will even close they are sooo huge.
now i now y i dont let shops touch my stuff, cause they are slack and dont give a shit. i took it to a large large PERFORMANCE shop in perth and they contracted the work to some other little backyard head shop with a dodgy sounding name, which i pay good money and get some joe blow ending up with it, who cant work out a shim thickness
the more i deal with local businesses the more i am disgusted people can reccomend these places, total lack of care and rediculious time frames for a simple port job of over 14 weeks.
more waiting now for shops to re-open and to get some more shims.
rant over/
Brad
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hey mate depends on your budget, power target. u could just get a set of bearings and rings and a gasket set and bolt it together stock, or for extra safety and power u will be best with....
forged pistons, treated gtr rods or even forged rods for safety, new piston rings, new bearings, all new oil seals on crank and cams, new block core plugs, full gasket kit is also needed. aftermarket oil pump (JUN, or so) for more power, and also a larger baffled sump is a must on any gtr with decent. then the rest of the gear u can either reuse or buy new better aftermarket stuff, like cams, crank, etc etc.
i've recently posted a thread with detailed pics of my rb26 rebuild in the Forced Induction section, its called "jun 2.7L engine build" or something like that, plenty of pics to see whats going on
cheers
Brad
Need To Make A Choice Regarding Stagea Ownership
in Wagoneers
Posted
as long as u can sit on your "kings thrown" and know u are the best and only the 260rs is the boss then live in stock stagea land.
if i wanted an investment i woudnt be playing with cars now would i
i think a nice fat power figure and all brand new parts suspension and brakes wise will help me forget im only in a "rs four" bunky as u put it