StageZilla
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Posts posted by StageZilla
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From that picture above, i would say you want to move the wheel something like 20mm outwards...
Stick in your current 9 inch +38 dimensions and you can manipulate to suit as it gives the difference below
http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
I came up with 8 inchs wide with +32 will give 19mm more clearance for you
Have a look in this thread
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...92233&hl=offset
thanks alex
well i installed one camber set on one side at the rear and it has pulled it out abit, just hoping the second camber set will be enough B)
i think the 9" wide rims are the problem
so if i goto 18" rims the offset reccomendations are still the same arn't they? and its only the width that changes the offset, correct?
will chuck the second camber kit in tomorrow arvo after work
cheers
Brad
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well i checked the measurements, and i edited my last post and put the details in there.
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Those ANZ wheels you have should have the offset stamped or cast into the back of the rim
If they are 8 inch rims, as a guess they would +38?
cheers for that, ill have a looksie, well it says bugger all about offset, but they are 9" wide rims and the offset is +38, going from the centre measurement to the rear of the rim that bolts onto the hub
and thanks Alex, finally i can understand the offset concept :lol:
so hows +38 compare to the reccomended offset? what is the ideal offset?
cheers again, u stagea owners are most helpful
Brad
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What is the width and offset of your rims and tyre size, just so we all do not have the same problem
Thanks
hey darrin, im unsure of the offset, and even width as i havent measured them, and they came with the car.
how do i measure the offset, anyone care to explain?
cheers
Brad
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hey guys im wondering if its possible to setup the suspension camber/caster/toe etc at home to recommended settings?
whats the easiest and best way to sort it all properly?
and how do i work out my current rims offset?
cheers
Brad
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Well done Brad.
For the other guys, please remember that Brad has extra, extra grooves, for achieving show height, not driving around height.
cheers well thats very true at the moment, cause without the bushes in, i tried to push the car out the way of the garage entrance (because we are getting a new garage door installed tomorrow) and it would not budge, i thought brakes were stuck, but no its the bloody rims hitting the coilovers
wrong bloody offset, now im gonna need new rims, because ill have to have it at stock height to clear the coilvers with these rims
hopefully the bushes pull the top of the wheel out towards the gaurd enough, but i doubt it cause it is touching on heaps of the tyre damn i didnt want to have to spend more $$$ atm... except on the engine is ok hehe B)
heres 2 pics i just took of it sitting on the ground, coilover is resting on the tyre.
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What if i started a business for dreamers trying to turn hack station wagons into performance cars...thats not a dig at anyone in particular, just how i feel about 1800kg station wagons
...and no i dont believe that, but i cant believe ppl get so upset by a badge, or for that matter what other people do to their own car. To me it looks like a nice car, same with your engine combo going into the wagon...but whats it matter what me or anyone else thinks?
If it aint yours, stop stressing and let him do what he wants
when have i ever claimed it to be a gtr or something it isn't? NEVER!
i aint got no gtr badge and i got everything from a gtr, except 3 more doors, thats all. i dont feel the need to buy gtr2nv plates or someshit
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maybe i should start a business making copy gtr badges, would make a fortune from the dreamers wanting a gtr :lol:
if ya aint got it, dont bullshit and pretend you do.
thats a go at all gtr badges on non-gtr's, not at JOP personally.
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ok heres a few pics of the springs/shocks installed, no bushed as yet, and the back is 300mm from wheel centre to gaurd, and front is currently 360mm at the front cause its engineless hehe.
the rears still have 2 grooves lower to go
and fronts have 3 grooves lower as well. once the engines in it will look perfect i reckon, and then the r34 brembo calipers and dba alloy rotors will top it off
cheers
Brad
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I cant not put the badges on, its only missing the motor and box.
your missing the entire driveline, including the 4wd attessa, so i think u only got some gtr gaurds/brakes to make it a real gtr?
i think the engine and box/4wd is like 99.99% most important aspect of a R34 GTR that makes it better than a gt-t. :lol:
looks awesome, except the plates, they are worse than the badge hehe, u paid like $500 for those
some people are fools, and will beleive its a gtr, but it will only make u feel like a total loser when they ask you to show em the rb26 engine haha, maybe the gtr plenum on the 25 will fool em for a while
each to their own
Brad
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so to install these, do i have to use my original shocky dust covers? cause my originals are buggered and torn
so the spring bottom seat goes on first, then the little gold cover thing on the top of the shock, then what? need pics
i started mine the other day and snapped the end off the old shock trying to undo the top locknut B) someone over tightened em when the apexi springs were put in japan :lol:
someone post some detailed pics of the assembly of the coilovers piece by piece plz
i can do a rb26/manual/gtr diff install but cant work out the simple coilovers haha
if i have to buy new dust covers how much are they new from nissan, anyone know?
cheers
Brad
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Garrett t04z cheap now about 2k.
garrett t04z have always been 2K since i been lookin (the past 4 months or so)
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mid 11's with 250awkw? and 250awkw on 24psi from N1 turbos?
good son of rajab something isnt right there... power should be over the 300 mark with N1's and that higher boost lvl
LOL thats exactly what i thought :lol:
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i had hks low mount manifolds on mine with the highflow stock turbos, but unfortunately i did a few mods and changes so i couldnt tell the difference (turbos were stockies originally) in power/response. but i cant see any big differences in the different aftermarket brands, its a simple 3 into 1, which is str8 as, not like single turbo spagetti manifolds that can be good design or total shit.
the hks ones looked heaps better flow and smoothness internally than the stock ones thats for sure
i got em cheap second hand though, so i dont think id rush out and spend the $1500 or whatever they are worth new in a hurry B)
sorry it wasnt much help....
Brad
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Gday i am wondering when it comes to engine machining what are the prices you guys have paid for it namely acid bath, grind and blance crank, boring, honing and decking.
i paid $1014 just 3-4 weeks ago for everything u said above
thats not touching the head either, only block.
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And how does he do these road tunes?
Wide band lambanda equipement?
hope he a better idea than some tuners around B)
like certain 12.5:1 a/f ratio through the whole rev range on a street car
gotta love the work of the "experts" :lol:
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its always the small things Brad, i'd easily put yours down @ 30k.
Like i also had a turbo that ended up having a bung cartirdge (even brand new)
Just one of those things thats just another... $1500 later...
Also remember, there is generally no warranty on performance, if shit fails after the build, you fork out again. Generally a workshop will help you out as much as they can, but backyard - fork out
Places like Garrett and stuff that "say" thier turbos are warranty covered, but isnt always true IMO.
They are highly conditionally based in terms of what they will/wont class as warranty. Also the turn-around time is another issue
My turbo's demise was Garretts fault, but trying to prove it would cost more than the $1500 to replace it all, not to mention the 6 weeks i'd already spent arguing with em and just wanted my car back
hey ash, yes certainly the warranty side of things is a total biatch, as everyone says its the other guys fault, and then vice versa, its a lose lose situation, just ends up costing cash cause of someones stuff up.
lets hope i have some good luck with the build, cause in the 12 months of owning the stagea ive had nuthin but trouble and only used it about 3-4 weeks all up
and 2 weeks was with the stock running gear (rb25/auto).cheers
Brad
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Ok, i've done a similar list in the past but cant find it. So here comes a nice long, but at least its high detail
RRP Prices, with the "Trade/cheaper/2nd hand parts" prices in brackets where applicable
This is also assuming you are paying for it to be done, rather than doing yourself. You can save money if you DIY, but make sure you are 100% on it as you dont wanna stuff it up.
Prices may vary buy a few hundred, but mine wont be too far off as i did most it all earlier this year
Rebuild, inclu.
Pistons, GTR Rods/prepping - $2000
Machining, N1Oil pump, Water Pump, Head mods, Rod bolts, Gaskets, New hoses all round, Motor in/out of car, GTR BOV's, and General labour including fitting of bolt on parts/welding cooler piping - $6000 ($3000 DIY)
Total for motor side of it, no bolt ons $8000 ($5000 DIY)
Mostly bolt on goodies
Turbo GT35 - $2300 ($1700/1800 trade, $1500 2nd hand)
External Gate & Bleed valve - $700 ($550/600 trade/mates rate/2nd hand)
Cams - $700
Manifold - $1100/$1300 ($900 trade/mates rate/2nd hand)
Dump/pipe work - $400
Cooler - $700 ($400 for cheaper ones)
Total - $6200 ($4600)
Now the other bits to make it all work
PowerFC - $1100
z32 AFM - $450 ($300 2nd hand)
Injectors, 740cc Nismo - $960
Lightweight Flywheel/Twin plate - $1700-$2000
Shimmed/modded Diff - $800
Tuning/R&D - $600
Fuel Pump $350
Total - $6160 ($5950)
Grand Tot - $20,260 ($15,550)
Feel free to cut out bits and pieces you already have, i just assume the car is pretty standard, maybe and exhaust but not a lot more.
Seems like a lot of money doesnt it?
350rwkw isnt cheap. Using an RB25 or an RB26, both of which really need a rebuild for reliability @ 350rwkw.
NOTE:
1) I would use new parts (personal preference), and only decent parts, not something half baked or not responsive etc.
If you spending big $$$ you do it right the first time as i learnt the $$$ way
2) This is not including the price you might have to pay on Cutsoms Duties if Customs grab your imported goods on thier way in.
Hope that gives everyone some more discussion material
My suggestion to you, settle for 260rwkw or there abouts and save yourself a 5 figure adventure.
260rwkw makes a VERY fast streeter.
-ash
good info, it aint cheap to build a motor, and people who claim i made 400rwkw with under 10K etc are what make people have unrealistic expectations, but as ash said its the little things that add up bloody quickly.
i reckon on my build ive spent over 2K on stuff i didnt even think about (well i thought oh $500 max will cover em all), like clamps, silicone hose, fuel lines, nuts and bolts, braided line, etc etc.
labour is the killer, thankfully i havent spent much in labour, except machining of head and block. oh and engine tuning when its up and running.
10K engine might be great with 350rwkw, but then ya got the diff, clutch, exhuast, bov, intercooler, cooler piping, fuel pumps, and i could go on forever.
rebuilds and the word "budget" dont seem to goto together to well in my experience
mine is heading quickly towards 30K just in parts, and it aint even assembled yet, so theres more $$$ yet on bits and pieces i aint allowed for B)
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picked mine up this arvo woohoo, cheers gary
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Re the diff fluid, you don't need to take the back off. There will be a drain plug under the diff (1/2 drive, can be verrry tight). And a filler plug on the side of the diff, just use a length of hose like stagezilla said.
Always undo the filler plug first! You don't want to undo the drain plug, drain all the oil, then find you can't refill it.
SZ good tip on those pliers I'm looking for a pair
cheers for the info duncan on not having to remove diff plate, i aint been near my diff for a long while, and i forgot about the drain plug, im thinking back to the VL commo days when changing diff oils thats y, and they dont bother with a drain plug (too smart for holden
)fuel pliers are brilliant, maybe groupbuy time haha, though $20 is bugger all anyway.
cheers
Brad
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ok im interested in people opinions and info on whats needed to be upgraded from the factory gear to accomodate a higher rpm limit.
im talking about harmonic balancer/dampener, pulley sizes, cams, valvetrain gear, crank, oil pump, water pump, etc etc
i want a table of mods vs the rpm limits.
so for say under 9000rpm im assuming all stock gear is fine and capable of this rpm safely? maybe upgrade the oil pump is the only one?
9500rpm = what changes?
10 000rpm = ?
10 500rpm =?
11 000rpm =?
11 500rpm =?
12 000rpm =?
12 500rpm =?
13 000rpm =?
so for these rpm limits what are the minimum changes needed to be reliable and safe?
when is the stock gtr harmonic balancer unreliable and likely to cause problems?
im hoping some rb26s experts can sort the myths from the facts, and people will be able to check if there combo is capable of a certain rpm limit by using this info.
look forward to some replys
cheers
Brad
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Thank you also WetGTR , any chance of seeing the compressor and turbine wheels side on .
From the cartridge number (740759-5002) both Garrett and HKS should be the same .
Cheers Adrian .
surely the garrett and hks versions are not 100% exactly the same, could be same measurements on the trims etc, but totally different wheel designs or whatever?
and as ive heard from people comparing garrett with hks turbos, is the hks ones will keep on pumping more hp at high boost, where as the garrett stuff runs outta puff at high boost levels and flattens off.
only time will tell
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my kit arrived today but i wasnt home to collect it
so now its at the "TOLL Express" depo about 100km from my house, so im picking it up tommorow afternoon, and ive decided ill sort the rebuild before i install the suspension, as the car is sitting on my driveway atm and the shocks etc will go rusty and shit by the time i get it moving again hehe.so to be safe ill say end of january 2006 i will be driving around and have the new suspension fitted
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i can vouch BRAZEN's stagea is the best stagea for sale just over 20K that ive ever seen. he has been trying to sell for a while, but theres just not a market in perth really, but i would a bought it over mine any day. (when mine was rb25/auto)
not a huge fan of the bright colour scheme but thats personal taste
good luck
Brad
hopefully the bushes pull the top of the wheel out towards the gaurd enough, but i doubt it cause it is touching on heaps of the tyre 
Stagea Handbrake / Footbrake
in Wagoneers
Posted
yep that is correct, there is 2 rear drum brakes that the handbrake operates totally separate from the other brakes
dont know a part no. for pads sorry...
cheers
Brad