Robbo
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Posts posted by Robbo
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I'm chasing an R33 manual gearbox. PM me.
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I also replaced the Idler bolt and the tensioner stud as they sometimes break.
:confused: How often has this happened? Anyone had either let go on them?!
Robbo.
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I used loctite on mine, as I couldnt click it off at 330ft/lb. I sparingly used loctite supernut lock which is the lower grade blue type.
I'd advise against using stud lock (red) or the retaining compound (green). I've seen bolts permanently attached with these grades. Once I saw a coarse threaded bolt that wasn't that much larger than the balancer bolt which we couldnt undo. Not with a 3/4" rattle gun, not with an 1" rattle gun and not even with an 1" rattle gun that used an 1" air line!!!
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Send me $15, and I'll express post you a tension tester
But really, as a rough guide you should have trouble twisting a belt 90 degrees, if you can twist the belt then its probably too loose. Using common sense and a general grasp of physics, you should be able to figure out if your belts are too loose. While your at it, inspect the belts for cracks, splits and frays.
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Its on the front of the engine between the harmonic balancer and the block.
When you pull of the balancer, and lower belt cover you can see it behind the bottom crank timing pulley.
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Now that Deren has the bolt off. How do we go about putting the bolt back on?
My workshop manual specifies the torque specs on the balancer bolt as 329-344 ft/lb or 446-466 N/m.
I have a huge 3/4" torque wrench with an 1¼" (approx 30mm) and with the car in gear the brakes hard on I can't put adequate force against it.. the driveline has too much slack and the car rolls slightly.
Whats the solution?? I'm thinking rattle gun at this point, even though I don't like the idea.
Cheers.
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With those belts. I saw cracks in one. and other had a chunk missing from it. the third looks reasonable but I thought why not replace the lot.
Lucien the guru might have a better way
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I've sorted it now.
Cheers.
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Hey,
Just changed the timing belt on my 32, and the process for setting the belt tensioner specifies turning the engine over twice before setting the position of the tensioner.
I did this and then cranked the engine over (on the starter motor, no spark), to see if it was all good. and the belt worked its way forward.
[Edit: by about a millimeter or so.. til the belt was slightly off the pulley.]
Is this a problem? I figure that the belt won't come off thanks to the pulley guide plates (large tapered washers) but it will wear the front of the belt..
What would cause this and what can I do to remedy it? The only thing I can pick is that the idler and tensioner pulleys sit at different heights. It's hard to explain but the distance between the block and the pulleys is different between the two. (i.e. the idler is closer to the block than the tensioner).
Help me please!!! I want to get this car back together. and I dont know what to do.. :confused:
Cheers.
Robbo.
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Contacted the guy selling the Motul oil.. he double checked it and it is rated as meeting both GL4 and GL5 specs.. so I'll be using it.
He said that he's used it in his R33 GTR gearbox and diffs and also in his SR180 with a mechanical LSD.
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Heres a pic Taken from page 404/804 from the "gtr_r32_service_manual.pdf"
Looks like they do specify LSD type oil
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I'll find out more about what I bought and try and rectify the problem. Luckily nothing has been refilled/changed yet.
Thanks for picking up on the problem. I'm sure it would run fine for the time being with whatever oil, but when I'm paying $100 for 7L... I want it exact.
Cheers, I'll keep you posted.
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I used the same oil for Gearbox, and Diffs. Is this going to be a problem?
Using Type D auto fluid for transfer case.
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Haven't done the brake/clutch fluid swaps yet. might think about that.
I've already bought the VL water pump, I may as well compare them both. If I'm comfortable with leaving the bolt out I'll go with it. If not, looks like I'll be going with an R33 GTR one, and modifiying it.
I ended up getting the Cam belt Idler as well. Then I found a slight weap from the inlet cam seal. So I'm going to get a set of genuine cam seals and a front crank seal too.
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Thanks for all your help
Some may find the following prices interesting.
Gates racing timing belt.........$93
NTN Timing belt tensioner......$60
Powermax waterpump...........$65 (Same part # as VL according to supplier)
Nulon coolant conc. 5L..........$30
Mobile 1 engine oil................$50
Motul Gear oil (gearbox & difs)
4.9L+1.5L+1L = 7.5L............$100
K&N oil filter........................$20
Ryco fuel filter.....................$12
NGK platinum plugs...............$82
Nulon Oil flush.....................$8
Nulon coolant flush..............$5
Nulon Xtreme brakefluid........$12
Bosch w/p belt...................$19
Bosch a/c belt....................$14
Bosch p/s belt....................$20
Genuine thermostat..............$50 (looks different to VL but possibly interchangeable)
515 Gasket compound..........$10
Total $650 ish... All these prices were at trade or mates rates.
And I'll be installing/fitting it all this weekend. So wish me luck!
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To suit RB26DETT. I'm not sure if they are the same as RB20s, 25s, or 300zxs etc..
But yeah I'm after one. Must come with some kind of reasonable assurance that it will work and not run with a miss.
Cheers
PM me, or send me a mobile number and I'll call you.
Robbo
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To suit RB26DETT. I'm not sure if they are the same as RB20s or 25s etc..
But yeah I'm after one. Must come with some kind of reasonable assurance that it will work and not run with a miss.
Cheers
PM me, a mobile number and I'll call you.
Robbo
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I realize the GTR N1 pumps are different. Are standard GTRs the same as VLs?
Can anyone confirm this?
Cheers.
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Just bought a GTR this month and I'm about to do the 100k service on it this weekend.
I was wondering if anyone has the suggested service checklist for it? Want to know what should be done for this service and also the recomended oils and quantities as well.
I'll be doing it myself so I wanted to get a check list, to make sure I get everything.
Currently I'm planning on:
* Replace engine oil filter and oil
* Replace gearbox/transfer case oil
* Replace differential oils
* Replace fuel filter
* Replace air filters
* Replace spark plugs
* Replace timing belt, idler and tensioner
* Replace water pump
* Replace coolant
* Replace brake fluid
* Replace clutch fluid
* Inspect/lubricate steering components (wheel bearings, ball joints, tierods, boots, etc)
* Inspect/lubricate drive line (drive shafts, yokes, unis, boots, etc)
* Inspect suspension (shocks, bushes)
* Inspect all hoses
* Inspect/adjust accessory drive belts alt/ac/ps/wp/etc
* Inspect brake pads & rotors.
The other thing I was interested in, was the water pump. Same pump as RB30E VL Commodores or what? I was led to believe the N1 GTR's had a different pump, but apart from that the standard GTRs had the same pump as VLs. Is this correct?
Cheers.
Robbo.
Wideband 02 Sensors
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
I bought a wbo2 sensor from www.zeitronix.com great little unit very accurate, but I didn't buy an LCD output screen so it only works with a lap top.
The zeitronix logger has many input options, like TPS, MAP, RPM, AFR, Exhaust gas temp, and any signal between 0 and 5V.
Would've be way better if I'd shelled out for the LCD screen aswell.