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skylimit

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About skylimit

  • Birthday 03/05/1984

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  1. Thanks Cowie, much appreciated mate! By any chance at all buddy would you know a website where I can download service manuals?
  2. Hey all, just wondering if you could direct me to a guide in regards to changing the front indicator globes on an r32 GTR? I've already tried searching, but I could only find tutorials for the main headlights. I've got a fair idea but I just want to make sure, so that I don't break anything! Thanks all! Much appreciated.
  3. Yeah I'll let everybody know about the idle, when I take it in on Tuesday. I'll be pulling the plenum off and possibly removing the engine in order to cover every angle. Sigh....got to take it in very early (all day job), should be fun though. Will be checking the ECU mapping very carefully as well, just to make sure it hasn't been re-flashed in japan. Cheers!
  4. Yo Cowie165, My readings were exactly the same, textbook numbers - and according to Dr Drift that is where they were meant to be. I also just thought maybe I have a blocked vacuum line somewhere. Strange hey?
  5. Hey all, I reset my ECU the other day, a noticeable difference in drivability and power delivery, but no effect on the idle problem. Went to Dr. Drift today, even he could not diagnose the problem. Had my GTR on diagnostic software, every setting was perfect from AAC response to TPS diagnosis. We experimented by lowering and increasing the AAC controller from the computer, we also switched tps off for troubleshooting purposes. But besides that all settings were nominal/optimal. Came to a couple of conclusions: 1. Vacuum leak somewhere. 2. Throttle (inner and outer spacing gaskets) on the plenum, are somehow worn or even broken resulting in additional amount of external air being sucked in to the engine, which is not being detected by the AFM. 3. Throttle control arms are not set correctly, or have been deliberately set, to open slightly at idle rpm, but I don't think so: seem to be shutting fully. 4. ECU tuned setting: But Dr. Drift said it should be irrelevant according to software diagnostics. I am going to check the pressure canisters at the front like 'blur' suggested. Besides that I am going to take my car to the GTR pro's on tuesday at Hypertech Autosports, I hope GTR builder Eric Schlifelner, may help shed some experience on this problem. Because at the moment I am lost! If anybody has any info on this, pls share. It will be much appreciated! Cheers SAU!
  6. Hey all, Sorry for the late reply! Work has been time consuming. My ECU is stock, but I'll give the methods posted a try. Thanks! Also, I realised that that my idle is at 1150rpm when the engine is running at optimal temp, from a cold start it idles at about 1000rpm. I went to Hypertech Motorsports near where I live, and asked them for advice. The guy I spoke to said that you could fix the idle by resetting the idle stepper motor or something. I wonder what he was talking about? But I'll get it checked out for sure. Also, I will be resetting my ECU soon: Will give all of you the heads up on what happens. Cheers all!
  7. I've also been looking at some other skyline forums. Other GTR owners seem to speak about the same problem as well. I've read threads indicative of aac problems, timing problems, afm problems and even wiring problems! But all of them are just speculative. There were no real solutions. I've checked my engine bay for cracked or broken off vacumm lines and the such, but I don't want to pull anything apart until I've found some actual information on what is causing the high but stable idle. I wonder if it could be the connector on the aac? I heard if you remove it, it could stabilise the idle. *BTW: for those in the new, AAC stands for auxillary air control valve.
  8. Hi All! My GTR seems to be idling at 1150rpm, it is a stable idle and it is not idle hunting either. It has always done this since I purchased it. At first I thought it was a specifically tuned that way, but now I wonder? Has anybody experienced this kind of situation before? My GTR is pretty much stock with no boost modifications, and only a full Mine's exhaust system from the turbo-back. I've read many threads on high idling, but none seem to put a finger on the situation. Can anyone help me fix this problem? Could it be my AAC or something like that? Any feedback will be much appreciated!
  9. That's good advice: I'll give it a try! What wbout the torque gauge? If the needle is slow to pick up when you give it a bit, couldn't that be a sign of an unhealthy attesa system? I heard a healthy system, snaps the needle quite fast to full front torque load under max rear slippage. What are your views on bleeding the attesa-ets system? I have heard that corrects many of the problems associated with no or low torque conversion to the front. How do you know when your clutch packs are wrecked? All opinions welcome!
  10. Hey all! I know this topic has come up before, and I have read them all, but I just need to clarify how would you know if the ATTESSA-ETS system is working at optimal performance when you buy an R32 GTR? What would be the signs of a healthy ATTESA-ETS system? What would be the bad signs of a ATTESA-ETS system that is not working properly? Cheers guys!
  11. I had a look at the wire clip, and it looks like it is caught in a catch, you have to kind of unclip it.
  12. Hey all! Could anyone please point me in the right direction as to how to install headlight globes for my Skyline? I have the globes already (H1 Type), but I don't know how to install the globes into the headlight assemblies. I just want to change my low-level lights, as one of them got blown. My parker lamps and high-beam lights are fine. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks all!
  13. Hey everyone! Just wondering if anyone knows about or actually uses the Impul Hi-Power Control Unit for their Skylines (especially R33 GTS25t)? You can view the ECU's at www.impul.co.jp. It looks like a factory replacement for the standard Skyline ECU (much like the Mine's computers for the GTR's), and not like a piggy-back style computer. All the info you have will be much appreciated! Cheers All!
  14. 1997' R33 Skyline GTS25t Series 2 FOR SALE! Model: R33 Nissan Skyline GTS25t Series 2. Year: 02/1997. Kms: 65,000. JUST DONE NEW REGO! Still has 2-years left of GOLD WARRANTY! MUST SEE!! Clean and Neat engine bay! Runs very smooth! Awesome paint work! Very clean exterior and interior. Have taken awesome care of car, never thrashed! Very regretful sale, but have to put financial priorities first. But that’s life unfortunately! Have only driven to work most of the time, has not been raced! Description: Stock standard except: - HKS SSQV BOV. - Cat-back exhaust system with silencer. - Kenwood Double-Din CD/Tape deck. - Rear after-market speakers. - ROH 17" Adrenalin Rims with Falken tires. - New NGK Iridium IX Spark-plugs just installed! - RAZO Gear Shifter. - Autometer Boost Guage. - Blitz Auto Turbo Timer. - New EXEDY Heavy-duty single plate performance clutch. 40% stronger, but still retains light feel. - Genuine Nissan Skyline Floor mats. Equipped with 2-point immobiliser system with alarm and keyless entry. Has been Comprehensively insured with Just Car Insurance. Fully Serviced on schedule all the time with Fineline Repco Automotive. I have full documentation: - Manual. - All Registration, import, compliance papers. - Proof of purchase papers. - Warranty papers. COMPLIANCE INFORMATION (Please look at attached image for purple compliance plate picture): - Complied under new RAWS import scheme (purple plate = safer and better quality!). - Date of compliance: 09/2004. - Compliance approval number: 1011701/039. - VIN Number: 6U9000ECR33130953. - RAWS Number: 10117. - Please look up RAWS SEVS website to type in VIN number for full registered details. PRICE: $20,000 Urgent sale! Need funds for buying house! Please call for inspection. PLEASE CHECK-OUT THE ATTACHED HI-RES JPEG PICTURES BELOW! Mobile: Call Jonathan on 0434 283 389 (if I can't answer please leave an SMS message with your name and number and I will call back ASAP). You can also email me at [email protected] if you prefer. Victorian/Melbourne Buyers preferred for convenience and warranty reasons. But interstate buyers more than welcome!
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