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WhatBrake

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Posts posted by WhatBrake

  1. The GTS4 pulls well out of corners obviously and is a lot of fun to drive, it depends what you can do yourself in the modification process. People who get everyone else to do their car up are always going to be paying a lot more (labour, getting ripped off etc). If you are proficient at modifying cars and know people who can get cheaper parts the GTS4 bang for buck will be better in my opinion. The extra traction is a clear bonus and installing a switch to cut the circuit for the fuse to RWD is great fun. Obviously as with GTR's can be understeer, but with correct mods, knowledge and contacts it's a great way to go. Not to mention it's different to most R32 Skylines out there...Thoroughly enjoy mine!

  2. Hey guys the plastic grey clip that clicks into the AFM on my car is buggered, ive got some spade bits etc there for the moment. If anyone can get/sell me that clip it would be tops (Nissan only sell the whole wiring loom). Prefferably with the wires already set in it and cut just before they go into the clip (so i can just solder it in). Any help is much appreciated, even if you know a store/workshop where i can grab one in WA. :)

    Cheers

  3. Be safe,

    and get in check out by a car inspector bud.

    cost you bout 110buks to + full report.

    cheaper if u only want engine etc.

    Or just bring it into the mechanics mwho spech in skyline bud. Your prob sound like an electrical prob.... to risky to around with.

    Yeah it would be something electrical/sensors. But yeh,i'm just having one last look before I have to fork out my hard earned for a proper mechanic to check it out. I'm just going to get fullthrottle performance to check it out as i know them, and their workmanship is top class; cheers for your comment. Really hoping for some quick cue from ppls experience, but if not it'l be in the mechanics on monday.

    Cheers

  4. My GTS4 is being really annoying recently by cutting ALL power sometimes the thing just dies (when driving along) and i can have my foot flat to the floor, sometimes jumps up revs quickly then dies again. I have found if i just stop it goes away or i'l just drop it back a gear to force the revs up, it also has the low speed stalling problem. The fuel pump has already been grounded (the black wire - correct), I haven't checked the idle control valve but i dont see how this is going to make my engine fully cut power. I have an inkling it's the AFM or connections, but could it do this, say if the comp lost signal from the AFM would it just drop revs to econo (safety/idle) mode; thus causing my problem?

    Any help would be VERY appreciated this has to be one of the most annoying things ive ever come across in a car... Thanks in advance :D

    Rhys

  5. For an immaculate R32GTS-t you could pay $14k but thats quite high thus meaning very low km's and near showroom condish; thats stock. You can pick up R32's for $10k but i woudn't usually reccomend them, a good price to grab a good R32 stockish woule be about $11,500-$13,000 to give a safe margin for km's and condish, would never be paying anywhere near $20k for an R32 GTS-t, as said in the Castle, "tell em theyr'e bloody dreaming".

    Cheers

  6. As "Silver-Arrowz" and "siksII" have said just stops HICAS ruining your fun, and feeling a bit dodgy at high speed cornering by disabling the rear wheels from assisting in turning the vehicle. But I read my mates new HPI mag today, they fully explain a lot on GTR's as it's a "GTR special issue" and a good read for those who havent seen it yet... :angry: yes explains HICAS lock bars and more

    Cheers

  7. The royal automobile club of WA (RAC) were going to charge me $203 for 3rd party on an R32GTS-t and i'm 19, from my searching it's a fairly decent price. Really if your'e wondering how much it's gona cost just spend 20mins n make some calls to insurance co's they will give quotes and a pretty close idea of the costs involved...

    Cheers

  8. So what is it then?

    You would rather what? Tune lean run less ignition timing?

    or tune a little richer and run more ignition timing?

    I am talking about a whole package, not just playing with ignition timing or just with fuel.

    Consider most hipo motors, how they are tuned.

    They don't lean the suckers out and run stuff all ignition timing, they tend to run them richer and keep the ignition timing in there, especially around peak torque.

    Obviously if you dial in too much fuel you will see egt temps climb due to what is known as afterburn. Its a balancing act, if you really hammer the car around the local track I would definitely consider investing in an egt temp guage. Its the only way to achieve the safest tune.

    I should also mention the japs tend to tune a little richer and run a little more ignition timing in their drift cars.

    I've done quite a bit of research in to the theory of tuning and feel I have quite a good idea what is going on.

    A richer tune that allows a little more ignition timing is a safer tune.

    EDIT: ESPECIALLY for ceramic turbine turbo's.

    :)

    Correct, theres no point leaning out your afr and getting pinging and possible detonation under high work loads. As you said much safer to run it a little rich and tinker with the timing.

    Also on the topic of these boost controllers, i have read quite a few pages and really dont have time to read 25 so if someone can vouch they work well on an R32 GTS-t/GTS4 i'l just get one. Thanks in advance :)

  9. I had a similar symptoms and it turned out to be water in the intake from when i drove through a really huge puddle during a storm. went away... eventually

    Hey mate would you be able to say where exactly in the intake, i did notice that i had a bit too much oil on my K&N panel filter when i gave it a recharge and there was some residual oil in the actual air box which might be similar to what you have said.

    Cheers

  10. Hey guys my R32 GTS4 is being a bit annoing recently, it's cutting out at low rpm at low speed or sitting at idle. Thing is it only does it sometime, usually when it's cold. Except it's not really stalling as such, before my connections to my AFM were a bit suss but ive rectified that problem (although it has somewhat come back, occasionally surging and cutting power - ie AFM not reading etc properly) but i'm about to look at this now. I'm hopeful it's just the AFM, but if anyone has experienced similar problems I would love to hear from you, even if it's to put my mind at ease. (enough to worry about let alone a very annoying cutting out habbit my car seems to have adopted). Thanks in advance

    Cheers,

    Rhys ;)

  11. My mate has an R32 GTS (soon to have a VH45 in it), but anyways he's running 9' rears with 8' front and with 245 rubber on the back, the rear tyres were getting rubbed out a bit just on the sidewall, with lipping it's now fine. So that'd be a should/probably from me, and also obviously the R32GTR guards are able to accomodate larger rims and rubber so GTR experience is irrelevent in your situation.

    Cheers

  12. Perth drivers can't merge.  :) 

    Forgot to post this totally agree, again. Perth drivers slow down to like 50 on the freeway to merge into a gap. I put up with this crap every day going to uni and it shits me so much, when merging keep a constant speed if not accelerate and slot in, it's not that bloody hard!

    Cheers

  13. In total agreement mate, sometimes it's just a joke on Perth streets...Something needs to be done about the incompetency, stupidity and lack of confidence of some (most) drivers in Perth. People dont understand driving like a retard actually causes more accidents than driving sensibily and confidently! Also the driving test instructors have so many different personal levels of what constitutes a pass to get your licence it's also unbelievable, if these people do their jobs properly now we wont be bitching in 10 years when these young drivers turn into older more retarded drivers. In getting my licence i failed the first time for driving down the middle of a carpark when the lane was barely big enough for my car and another 1/3 of a car, then my next test was with the chief instuctor who was meant to never pass anyone, i passed with 98% and it got me wondering; how crap must people be (he was a very fair tester, and it was just commonsense driving).....thats def not a brag either, just trying to highlight the point.

    Cheers

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