Mumbo#5

its got a standard nissan headgasket with ARP studs. I didnt do the test with the injectors not operating so this could have also gave me a lower reading. The workshop that put my engine together new I was eventually going to run really quite high boost so I'm guessin they did that to suite. Sweet thanks lads

Hi all Just did a compression test on my car and i got what seems to me to be fairly low compression. All of the cylinders were 10 psi within each other at 120-130psi. I did the test at NOT. The engine has been rebuilt about 10,000kms ago and has arias forged pistons, 20thou over and 4 thou ring gap. Can anyone shed some light on why its so low? or is it normal?? Thanks in advance

ive got a vibration from 1000-2000rpm and ive put it down to being my clutch. I have a TS2CD os giken twin. mind you i cant really hear much when I depress clutch other than a half f**ked throw-out bearing

throw-out bearing noisy?

Are you talking about the friction point of the clutch? my os giken twin is around half way but i'd say its been worn a bit..

Hi all I have a TS2CD OS giken twin plate clutch in my skyline, and was wondering if anyone out there using a OS giken twin has a vibration from 1000-2000rpm, not there at very light loads, but otherwise it is? I just want to know if I can cancel it out and start looking at uni's/centre bearings etc (because I heard twin plates rattle somewhat) Thanks lads

Ive had bendix ultimates on my fronts... I have done everything.. I'm not too bothered by it. I would never by ultimates again.. just a waste of money really.. could have spent my 80 bux better elsewhere.. By the way, the pads just glaze the rotors pretty much straight away, so your gonna get squeels, and yes i have used disc brake quiet to no avail. bendix advances all the way.. less dust, less noise, less eating away at my prescious rotors which are now way undersize.. oh well

my OS giken twin is pretty damn light...

for me? about 130 bux.. BUT I did all the work myself (apprentice mechanic).. its approx 20 each injector plus seals and maybe pintle caps. So ur looking at around 3hrs labour I would say at around 65-85 bux depending...

there are a few people suffering the same problem.. and no-one knows a real answer.. thanks for the replies guys, i dont have any vacuum leaks (rebuilt the engine, replaced nearly all hoses)... and done the ecu reset many-a-time no good. OK.. this might sound stupid.. but after i got the injectors cleaned.. it was good for about a day.. then it started again.. I guess next thing is to replace all the injectors... damn thats gonna be a big hole in the pocket.. and if its not that im gonna cry :|

Hi all I just wrote a huge post about whats happening but the f**kin forum shit itself So its getting late and im going to shorten it Problem: In the mornings, cold starts are a bitch, only when cold.. the engine starts fine when warmish/warm. When you preceed to start the car in the morning, it tries to start, stalls, tries to start, stalls does this around 5-10 times depending on how cold it is. When you blip the throttle to try to get it to start, and when once started, it goes into cold start mode (idling at 2000-1500rpm) perfectly. Things I have done to try and solve the problem: Cleaned all electrical things (AFM etc.) Cleaned Injectors (sonically) Changed sparkies (coppers gapped at .8) Changed the coolant temperature sensor (is working fine according to my carmanscan pro, when you do the actuation test and lower the temp the computer see's, it retards the timing so its working fine) Cleaned throttle body and components on manifold (fully cleaned TB and AAC valve (pulled the AAC valve fully apart and cleaned).) After doing all of these things, its still doing it. One thing I did notice to be very strange is that when I disconnect the plug completely off the coolant temp sensor, it starts like it should (sends the computer into a default mode) which indicates to me that the sensor was frooked, but its not as it has been replaced. Is there anything else to do with the cold start side of things that I can test/replace/clean???? Im really really stumped, and so is the rest of the workshop I work with.. I was doing some searching but didnt find a solid answer.. PLEASE PLEASE HELP GUYS!! I'm getting quite distrought about this... if a god damn V6 commodore can start in the morning first hit, why can't my skyline:( Any help would be muchly appreciated.. Thanks guys..

You are awesome! thanks heaps mate.. with the shield ground, i should just strip the shield wire down a bit more and make sure only the copper wire is touching the sensor on the o2 sensor.. my understanding of a shield wire is that it is only grounded at one end, and im guessing its gonna be grounded at the ECU. ill go try now

does anybody know? Can I even re-wire them? please help... noob to auto electronics.. EDIT: Ok, ive done a bit more research, it seems there is some sort of shielded ground on one of the wires, what do i do with that? Also, i noticed that one of the o2 wires is connected to the AAC valve... hmm.. this would cause idle problems im more than guessing... this is so damn confusing!#%!@#

Hi all Last week my oxygen sensor plug fell onto the dump pipe of my exhaust. Now i've had to re-wire the 02 sensor (cut it before the plug cause it was absolutely f**ked) And since then ive been getting 0v So I'm more than guessing ive hooked it up the wrong way (scan tool to check voltages) The pic I have attached is of the 3 wires... One of the wires have like, 2 different wires surrounding the central wire.. anyways ill show u the pic. please let me know ASAP as my fuel consumption is absolutely herrendous.. lol! Thanks in advance (ive tried searching to know availe)

hey mate, i have the same problem.. it could be your injectors.. get them checked and cleaned.. about 20 bux each injector.. cheap insurance if u ask me