dabigbolf
-
Posts
528 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
100%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by dabigbolf
-
-
heres just a quick note of what i used and what it cost me excluding purchase of motor, cause that was kind of a messy situation.....
r32 crossmember for engine $35
vl commodore radiator $50
2 10 inch thermos $150
1 piece tailshaft $300 (including the purchase of a r33 tailshaft)
engine mounts and sump to be modified $350
gearbox crossmember $100
5 puk daiken clutch $550
bosch 040 fuel pump $205
timing belt $80
waterpump $120
rocker cover gaskets / oil pump gasket $70
cooler $750
silicon/ piping/ clamps/ fitted $550
front pipe $150
oil/air sep $90
hope i haven't left anything out....
ooh
all the help bozz has given me, priceless..... hehe
-
bozz knows the wiring pretty well.
actually the best on the forums.
for 6 grand you would get a rb25 conversion that will probly need another 2 grand replacing things anyways.
When doing a conversion liek this you dont want to be pulling the motor out again.
So you got heater hoses, timing belt, waterpump, clutch, and then you start on, tailshaft, gearbox mount, engine mounts, crossmember, fuel pump, exhaust, thermo fans, radiator, then wiring the prick up is not that fun.
Bozz wired mine, and he knows what his doing. The concept of it is pretty straight forward, if you have done it before. Its a matter of looking at the r33 pinout and then matching that with the corresponding wiring in your S13.
but its something best left to someone who has done it. as last thing you want is a fire hazzard.
and i guaranty that you will be sorting out bugs for a fair while after you actually have it on the road.
best of luck
p.s
bozz i be right for tommorow, gearbox is crunching, pissn me off.
-
i got a mate selling one, out of his ridden off r33. after around $1800 complete.
-
I have seen this, and been in it.
Very nice ride. and has some nice mods to go with.
-
could be nice to chuck in a S13 or r33...
but you'd still need to hunt down the other parts i spose....
-
hey,
just wondering which is the plug for the speedo..... that i have to run to the speedo.
theres a few plugs down near the gearbox....
thanks
-
once i sort out power steering i will reconnect that stupid BOV.
I thought seeing as the rb30's had no bov that i would be alright.
they dont seem to cut out.
It normally happens after the car is warm. And doesn't always happen when i build up some boost. Further investigation be will be done, once timing is set right, and i have some temperature readings, and thermos hooked up.
-
hmm,
why would you want to put the N/A camshaft in the turbo head? please explain, are they more agressive or something....
I am a bit confused, if your not going to be using the motor your working on now, why are you going to the trouble of doing it.
As for the timing belt, when you take it off, just mark the points so you know where they go.
I have never taken out cam shafts, so i wouldn't know.
But from doing the timing belt, i'd imagine once you get the cam gears off, it would just be a matter of pulling them out.
Might be some other little things holding it in place.
but yeah if your not using this engine why you going to the trouble....
-
few things i will have to check over....
will let you know how i go.
i reckon afm big possibilty
-
please dont tell me you are replacing the head on it...
If your asking how to take off cam covers, then i'd sugguest getting someone else to do it all.
and if you have melted a piston or something, you realise the head will have to come off.
-
is it true, that you can take out the factory boost solenoid....
By going to the ecu pinout. Pin number 25 and just putting that to a ground, instead of running it to the ecu....
Thus causing you to get full boost, and then not getting that, extra boost at 4800 rpm....
cause at the moment, mine is going to 5 psi from 3000 to 4800. then till redline i can get 7 or 8 psi....
anyone to clarify...
-
dont take out the cam shaft....
i dont know what your trying to achieve. from reading above, i see that you just wanted the cam cam covers removed.
You dont take out the actual cam shaft. And dont play around with the timing belt, and cam gears, otherwise, you will have to get it all set again, as theres special markings on the betl, that are related to where each piston are....
Top dead centre is where its gotto to be.
If you are just wanting to polish up the covers, then go for it. But you cant drive around with no actual cam covers on the car......
hehe.
-
ok. cam coves.
theres i think 4 bolts on each side. so 8 bolts for each cam cover.
They do have a rubber gasket on them, but its not really sealed on. I take it you taken the black 2500 cc rocker cover off already.
There are just 8 bolts holding each of them on.
You will have to take off your crossover pipe to get it off from memory. ANd the transistor that sits on top of your black rocket cover, (if yours is a series 1 motor). But yeah 8 bolts just comes off.
-
oh, and just a quick one...
where should i put the CAS...
on what angle....
is there a special way of setting the timing. i have mine retarded at the moment i believe...
on the safe side.
thanks
-
Just a couple of bolts....
Use a screw driver i think.
its just the black plastic thing that goes over your timing belt.
Dont drop anything down there when working on your car either.
otherwise you will be removing your radiato, harmonic balancer just to get to the little bugger...
i have done it on mine..
but i never used washes....
Must explain why the car is running soooooo shit....
so you reckon about 2 mm worth of washes. or just a couple of reasonable size ones.
-
the only problem i am having at the moment, is the car is cutting out... but that has nothing to do with the intercooler, more than likely a loose connection....
theres no problems with having a front mount with stock ecu. All you are really doing is increasing the amount of air which gets cooled as it goes from your turbo to the throttle body.
If anything, it will make the car run better, keeping temperatures lower.....
You'll need a after market ecu, after you start messing with upgrading your turbo, injectors, etc....
If your really worried i think most guys settle for the saf-c air fuel controller.... sorts out the major problem, of rb25's running to rich....
-
i haven't put mine on as yet...
this could be the cause of the car cutting out....
but definatley gives the whole EPA type smelll...
i traced the vapours coming from a little box off the side of the fuel tank. theres a sponge in there also....
might conect it and see if it stops car from cutting out...
-
some have said it could be cause of excess dumping of fuel...
i do have a bosch 040 fuel pump.... and not producing really all that much power...
so maybe to much fuel getting to the motor.
will go for tune, once i get power steering lines done.
i'll get air flow metre checked also.
cheers
-
i dont have power steering hooked up...
i dont have a BOv, so the non venting this doesn't apply.
It also happens when your in down changing.... I thought yeah, i'll just drive into corners, but then you get this massive thuddd from the clutch, as the car wants to cut out, but cant cause i am in a gear....
no blow off valve, power steering coming next week, so i dont really know what it could be.
-
personally i wouldn't take my car to get work done at any nissan dealership.
when you go in and ask for a timing belt for an rb25, and they say, are you sure its an rb25, not an rb26, then say, is that twin cam or single your after......
gets you wondering, what wacky tabacky they were smoking....
i reckon you might as well wack on a front mount intercooler aswelllll
-
hey,
i am driving along, slowing down is usually when this occurs.
And the car shuts off. What would cause this to happen. I have tried looking for lose connections, but everything seems fine. its just when i approach rounabouts, and prepare to stop the car shuts off.
I turn the igntition back on, and theres no problem.
Then it will happen again.
What could cause this to happen.
It really makes shit to drive , as you also get no brakes. (i am getting a 1 way valve tommorow, along with power steering lines.)
but yeah, car ccutting out...
Cant see it being fuel pump, as i got an 040 one, and plenty of petrol.
cheers
-
think theres a stock boost controller that has to be disconnected...
maybe someone else can elaborated.
-
so basically this is just the t4/t3 hiflow.
I keep the same stock back wheel off the r33. Its just the vg30 exhaust housing.
thanks for the help.
will see what sort of responses i get from a couple of turbo places down here in melbourne.
cheers
-
ah, well thanks. I dont like it. 5 psi to 5000 rpm sucks. i dont really like revving the car out to redline. But at least in know nothing is buggered,
I have the stock dump pipe, but everything else 3 inch. Also have front mount intercooler.
I do have a liquid filled autometre boost gauge, and i'd say it goes to around 4 psi then to 8 psi.
So 5 and 9 psi you seem to be correct.
If i was wanting to get the boost to come on earlier would using the bleed valve do this. Where do i set it up from. Never really used one before. DO i t piece the valve just after the actuator hose, and tehn run that up to a plenum nossel....
And having the bleed valve tightened, or loosened has what effect. Upping or lowering the boost.
11 or 12 psi would be what i would run on the standard turbo.
Urgent!! HELP!! Greddy Plenum for R33 GTST..
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
just for reference, the r31 throttle cable is as long as you are ever gonna need one, and it bolted into my silvia no worries....
cheap to