PHT33
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Posts posted by PHT33
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You'll spend a LOT more than 20k.
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And they dont even need to be changed that often.
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Coil packs...are they the stockers? Have you gapped the plugs down to .8, even .7? Have you got 5's or 6's (heat range of plugs)? Also check the wiring loom for the coils and see if it looks dodgy like burnt wiring or cracked plugs.
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Someone was advertising some skyline parts for sale. There was 2 spoilers among the parts. Wondering if you still have one of the wings left? Very interested.
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Do you have the other wing still?
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Can an rb26 fuel rail and injectors be used in a Greddy style rb25det plenum?
Also are injector plugs the same?
Thanks
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I have the manual, obviously by the stats above.
It doesnt have any of the bottom end stats.
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No, Nissan is not helping.
I'm having this problem too.
Someone has to know please.
Head bolt specs are 1/ tighten to 29 Nm
2/ tighten to 98Nm
3/ loosen to 0Nm
4/ tighten to 25-24Nm
5/ tighten to 93-103Nm
Someone please come up with the Big and Main torqe specs...
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Brand new plugs. Thank you for your help...new O2 sensor...$200...fixed line....priceless!
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As soon as the revs start to pick up it goes away. Car still goes hard.
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Yes. have cleaned that. Rough idle as in, half missing...not dropping a cylinder completely or anything though. Have cooler, afc controller, kkr 430, 3" zaust, vent to atmo catch can, jjr coils, iridium plugs... Anyone done any of these mods and been able to link a similar problem?
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Have replaced the coil packs. Anyone had an O2 sensor fail?
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R33 gtst rb25det...got a rough idle but apart rom that car goes hard...
Any ideas to help look into something would be awesome...thanks in advance.
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Front guards...easy. Try gt autostyle or vertex aus (www.vertex-aus.com). Quarter panels...another story, do you know the work involved in those? Is it a gtst or gtr?
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JUST DO IT!
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Yeah, its the growing and shrinking of the cast iron manifold that works away at the stainless steel stud (stainless being brittle) and it lets go by shearing off about 3mm inside the head too...heaps of fun to get out. Dont even bother getting the easy outs either, no good. Hardened steel on stainless, rounds off almost imediately.
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Woh, $400 to buff a car...wish we got that much...
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Anyone else that has installed a bigger turbo on the factory manifold, without removing it and replacing all the stainless studs with mild steel ones?
Just found out the long way that the stainless studs have an operational life...
The growing and shrinking of the cast iron manifold works away at the brittle stainless items and fractures them untill complete failure. Then after a few let go (6 out of 13 for me) the exhaust pressure works at the gasket and bows through. Kinda ran like it had a mild cam at first, lol.
Everyone probably knows...but still...just a heads up for any other noobs.
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The best way---> Respray the panels. Just 2 doors? Should cost about 120-150 per door...depending on colour.
The cheapest way---> Get a professional to buff the doors, because they should use and 'non filler' style of cuttin g compound that will at least polish inside the scratch and not just wash off.
As everyone else stated...not the same sentence.
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Anyone got any idea how to set up a Blitz Dual-SBC? Cant get it figured out properly.
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All good, unistalled, reinstalled, must have been a loose clamp...
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Hey, just mounted up a new fmic and piping kit (last one got mingled into a dog) and now it has a crazy whistle/blowing noise when it comes on boost... Running 17 psi from a kkr 430 with factory airbox with the inlet piece off, because it doesn't fit and an aftermarket bov, to get rid of the annoying leak/whistle from the factory one. Not sure whats going on... Have checked all new fittings and joins for possible leaks and all appear fine. Also car still hammers and runs fine. Can anyone help please?
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Added some new iridium plugs (0.8mm gap) to the equation, saweet as! It only had NGK 5's in it, was told to get 6's, even 7's. Ran with some 6's. Comes on in first, tire smoke, smashes second, tire smoke...etc etc, who ever though autos could be fun.
R33 S1 Spoiler
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
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Hey. Yeah they'll have to weld up and patch all holes then fill to re-straighten because the welding pulls the panel steel around. Then respray. We usually charge about 350 for it. Doesn't cost any diff whether you take whole car in or remove yourself.