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No Crust Racing

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    Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted · Edited by No Crust Racing

    16 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

    That's fair that it won't be everyone's taste.

    I feel in person it looks different to the pics.

    I will say, as long as a daily driver looks okay, I'm fine with it. Ha ha

     

    I do have to question though, everyone saying diesel having all these higher maintenance costs. Even the Landcruiser guys claim the same stuff. But I've had my Landcruiser since start of 2015, and per km, it's costing the same to maintain as the petrol landcruiser.

    When I ask the question of what everyone is thinking diesel costs more for, I never seem to get any answer.

     

    I will say, around town she can be heavy on fuel at 14L/100km. And it's slow.

    On the freeway I'll get a best of about 13L/100km.

    Adding our old 3T plant trailer on the back of it, never really changed fuel economy at all. And well, I was already going slow anyway. Ha ha ha

    That being said, get it in the right gear, and she'll pull hills (slower than a comparative petrol), but definitely pulls better than it would if the motor didn't have the after market factory turbo on it. :P mine is also tuned conservatively too!

    That all depends the diesel in question, I should preface by saying "modern" turbo diesels. 

    Diesel costs more per litre than almost all fuels barring E85, at Apco where I get my 98 it's the most expensive fuel (no e85 on offer). 

    Quality aftermarket diesel oils on average are more expensive (for good low ash content stuff) but in my case it's a wash as Petrol and Diesel use the same oil from Toyota (which means petrol stays super cldean from all the detegrents). 

    For a tow vehicle you may also want;
    Additional water trap/filters and associated alarms/gauges and pray you don't get a bad batch of fuel. 

    Additional EGT sensor/gauges. 

    At some point the turbo will fail $$$ to repair that I don't have to worry. 

    I will never have to think about EGR or DPF issues. My injectors cost a couple bucks and can be slapped in vs Direct Injectors that cost $$$ and need coding. My fuel pump costs a couple backs vs $$$$ and install costs for HPFP. Let's not forget Ad-Blue lol 

    Older Turbo diesels avoid of lot of these common rail/emission issues but are slow AF and noisy as shit, dont have great economy, and are just unpleasant to be in. 

    You know what has none of those issues? A late model V6 Prado that'll do 4-500ks before any major failure (maintenance done properly) and it's comfy, quiet, and has power (relatively speaking). 

    Did you lunch your 1GR somehow? that'll be 5-8ks for a new engine please. Did you lunch your VD? Please bend over... 

    Modern TD can get out. 

     

    Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    Oh man, Prado is a terrible tow car economy wise. Try 18-20L for 2T. Old SZ Petrol Terri used to do like 14-15L and only needed 91. 

    I love the petrol for quietness, power (overtaking especially), lower overall maintenance/repair cost, vs a diesel in all respects, but you pay for it with economy when towing. I run 98 (tuned) which also adds up, but the extra power is worth it. 

    Raced a mates new 500Nm diesel prado up an on ramp and was slowly pulling away until 70 and then just gapped by bus lengths from 70 to 140.

    Waiting to see if new prado gets the TT petrol option I am seeing for Lexus as I dont want anything bigger physical size wise or heavier (wood carting, getting through gaps/gates at my place, slopes, etc). 

     

    Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted · Edited by No Crust Racing

    11 hours ago, MBS206 said:

    If you like being able to get in a car, and it drive and operate like a car, DON'T get a Tesla.

    I'm presently driving a Hyundai Kona EV.
    We had a Tesla Model 3 with extended range previous to this, and a Hyundai Ioniq.

     

    Literally, Tesla is like an iPad application was made, and then they added a steering wheel and tyres. They're so freaking shit.

    Yeah I like my cars to look like cars and the Kona looks wack, the newest version looks kinda cool, but not for 70k. The Leaf looks ok, I like the Nismo one, but I won't drive a hatchback where I live (country roads, lots of criters, bullbar territory).

    Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted · Edited by No Crust Racing

    My interest in the hybrid is nothing to do with economy, it's because it's substantially faster and the CVT shits on the 6spd auto in the petrol 4cyls for drivability. With the hybrid you can actually overtake safely on single lane country roads uphill at 100km/h. 

    I've not driven a 6cyl one to compare it to, but as far as 4cyls Camry's go, the Hybrid is the one to get. 

    R34 GTT - Bottom end build question

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted · Edited by No Crust Racing

    If you are buying new, just get a spool kit, but better yet ask your engine builder what they like to use. I go with CP because my engine builder told me to. I also went Nitto I beams and CA625 rod bolts because my engine builder told me to. Research shows that's a strong rod/piston combo, but that's a 4 cyl trying to make more power than you air aiming for so the HP/L equation is worse.

    Have a quick look on marketplace at least, you would be surprised what stuff comes up for dirt cheap. 

     

    R34 GTT - Bottom end build question

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    3 minutes ago, LjB123 said:

    Reckon its worth getting the $2000 block to use as a base? Issue i have is if someone buys that block within the next 2 weeks before the engine is taken out to check over, im kind of stuffed trying to find another block if my current block is damaged, or the crank is damaged and needs major machining

    What are you gaining from it? You're not going to be re-using rods/pistons and your crank is likely fine with a polish/linish and at worst some different grade bearing shells? 

    I'm not sure there's 2k of value in it for you? You can always buy it for peace of mind and keep it as a spare/sell if you find out it's not needed. 

    Offer him $1500 for quick cash sale etc, always low ball. 

    R34 GTT - Bottom end build question

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    7 minutes ago, LjB123 said:

    The budget is whatever to get the car back on the road. I’ve literally owned it for not even 2 months, i just want to enjoy it. I don’t want to do track days, i don’t want to drift it. Its a street car, for me to go on cruises with some friends and enjoy driving it as an R34 has been my dream car since I was a kid and played Need for Speed, and a GTR is out if the budget these days. I don’t want to make monster power, it was making 400hp at the wheels on full boost at one point with the current setup, so would like to get it back to that/close to it, or whatever the tuner recommends as reliable

    Im booked in with TME Motorsport near me. They identified the leaking exhaust valve for me in the first place during a check over, but didnt have time to do the work and i threw some other workshops / tuners names to him and I ended up going with Elite Motorsport, who organised the head service and upgrades, once the head was back on they identified the slight engine knock and that it was losing power at peak torque. They didnt have time to do the engine work for over a month so went back to TME, they were happy to take the work on in early March, get the engine out, see whats exactly wrong, and work out what we will do

    That's rough, R34 GT-R was my dream build too so I did a mock up Z Tune build which I loved looking at, but not maintaining. 

    Honestly, don't cut corners, just put a basic forged build together and know that the car is not being pushed to give you 300kw and there's always room to move if you want to plus it will sell better later. 

    Buy once, cry once. 

    That's my 2 cents. 

    R34 GTT - Bottom end build question

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    What is the budget, what is the goal, What workshop is actually doing the work for you? 

    I would define the variables first then start talking with the workshop, they often know of engines/parts around and will have a preferred machinist and can give some quotes so you can make informed decisions, at the moment it seems like you're just throwing ideas around (which is fine) but doesn't move the project forward. 

    You already have a fresh head, you're only a set of rods/pistons/bolts/studs away from having a bottom end to match it and a motor that's basically brand new. You will be paying for machining and labour either way so that's already spent. 

    That shouldn't come to 20k. 

    R34 GTT - Bottom end build question

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    3 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

    A few months ago now when I was in Sydney for WTA, I visited Skyline Spares, they had RB's in stock. I'd be amazed if they have no long motors now. 

    Have you spoken to them to confirm they don't have stock?

    He probs doesn't wanna pay the BS wrecker prices. 

    To be fair, for the prices they are asking ,you would expect them to be testing/proven etc, and I have seen plenty (across various platforms) that are straight up pieces of shit. 

    Not saying this is the case here, but buyer beware etc. 

    R34 GTT - Bottom end build question

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    3 hours ago, LjB123 said:

    Thanks for that. How can I test it for hardness? I thought generally you would need a gauge for that and theyre fairly expensive?

    I'm fine buying a new oil cooler and heater unit, theyre relatively inexpensive. I am close by to a few turbo places like GCG and Precision Turbos who I am happy to get it to them and pay for them to pull apart and clean it our properly, will still be cheaper than a new turbo I imagine, and definitely cheaper than an upgraded one which would require new parts. I'm not after huge power at this point, maybe in a couple years time, but this is just a weekend car for street use. I don't plan on doing any track days, as I barely have spare time for that sort of thing, and want to keep this car for as long as possible. I will look at getting an inline turbo filter. 

    Should I also upgrade the sump and install oil restrictors while im at it? are they worth it? I was going to get a new N1 oil pump, not sure if those are necessary with keeping a stock oil pump or will serve any advantage?

    The machine shop will do it for you. 

    As was said, you need to remove all the oil gallery plugs, inc the crank, VVT solenoids/gears etc and clean everything thoroughly top to bottom then clean it again and when you think it's clean, clean it once more. As for upgrades that all depends on the goal, there's a number of basic things you would do with an engine apart if you have access/time/budget. 

    N1 oil pump not needed for 300kw, oil restrictors and external drain is nice to have.

    I would be looking for a complete good engine with a known history and either building this current one on the side slowly or selling it for whatever you can get, and you will still need to be mindful of the turbo, external oil lines etc as bearing material ends up EVERYWHERE. 

    2k for a known good bottom end and a very thorough clean/service of the head is likely the cheapest/fastest route from where you are right now. 

    Can you do all this work yourself or is this going to a workshop? As that has an impact on what you do also. 

    R34 GTT - Bottom end build question

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    2 hours ago, LjB123 said:

    the block I found for $2000 was from a engine that had blown a head gasket, is there a way to tell if there is damage done from the blown head gasket? The seller says the bores are not scored at all and the tolerances at the rod end indicate no spun bearings. I was going to pull the sump off and take a look at it to confirm. Just concerned that the blocks structure could be compromised from a blown head gasket and possible over heating? Or am I overthinking this? 
     

    I was going to be doing as many new parts as I can like heater core, oil pump, oil cooler, but not sure about the turbo as that is a huge chunk of the expense, and it currently has a high flowed factory turbo and didnt want to go upgrading the turbo just yet as that will mean new manifold, new dump, and likely a whole lot of fabrication work to the intake, and i just want the car running again to enjoy it, as currently its been in the workshop for as long as ive owned the f!@&king thing, but was going to have it cleaned out properly and the shop that will be doing the work is confident in cleaning it all up. But shouldnt the oil filter have caught pretty much all of it?

    Yes deck surface can have soft spots, you would ideally check it for hardness (quick/cheap) but these blocks are not as prone to that as others.

    Guarantee you the shop will not clean it enough, it's your job to ensure its minty fresh clean as it's your wallet.

     

    Oil filter is not designed to filter that level of debris, oil coolers really cannot be cleaned out properly.

     

    You will want to have the turbo inspected at minimum incase it's already scored and I strongly suggest fitting Inline filter to the feed.

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