No Crust Racing

I mean something that fits in under MER 5k budget endurance rules. I asked, they do allow 86s but in a specific category/penalties applies and they were pretty clear that it was I think ME1 (category) that often takes the cake.

We could always buy a cheap shitter as a group and go endurance racing????

This is after telling me how great they are for ages such that I bought one... Fantastic...

She averaged 6.2 on her highway trip up north, in the car solo, luggage for the week, tyres at 36-37psi. Not bad for a brick on wheels being pushed along by a lil 2L turbo. I wasn't susprised, it was about what I expected honestly. I reckon with me driving it off cruise I could get it into the high 5s on a highway trip.

Told you, Hybrid Camry, the eCVT is excellent and the economy is fantastic and still has "some" punch for overtaking, plus you've got dat asian heritage so you'll feel right at home cutting everyone off in it.

Sold, thanks

And modulation becomes a issue the more stopping power you have when outright grip is not increased accordingly also. Lucky he got dat fancy motorsport ABS!

Tyre adhesion will be the challenge.

That all depends the diesel in question, I should preface by saying "modern" turbo diesels. Diesel costs more per litre than almost all fuels barring E85, at Apco where I get my 98 it's the most expensive fuel (no e85 on offer). Quality aftermarket diesel oils on average are more expensive (for good low ash content stuff) but in my case it's a wash as Petrol and Diesel use the same oil from Toyota (which means petrol stays super cldean from all the detegrents). For a tow vehicle you may also want; Additional water trap/filters and associated alarms/gauges and pray you don't get a bad batch of fuel. Additional EGT sensor/gauges. At some point the turbo will fail $$$ to repair that I don't have to worry. I will never have to think about EGR or DPF issues. My injectors cost a couple bucks and can be slapped in vs Direct Injectors that cost $$$ and need coding. My fuel pump costs a couple backs vs $$$$ and install costs for HPFP. Let's not forget Ad-Blue lol Older Turbo diesels avoid of lot of these common rail/emission issues but are slow AF and noisy as shit, dont have great economy, and are just unpleasant to be in. You know what has none of those issues? A late model V6 Prado that'll do 4-500ks before any major failure (maintenance done properly) and it's comfy, quiet, and has power (relatively speaking). Did you lunch your 1GR somehow? that'll be 5-8ks for a new engine please. Did you lunch your VD? Please bend over... Modern TD can get out.

Looks are subjective, this is a hard pass for me.

Oh man, Prado is a terrible tow car economy wise. Try 18-20L for 2T. Old SZ Petrol Terri used to do like 14-15L and only needed 91. I love the petrol for quietness, power (overtaking especially), lower overall maintenance/repair cost, vs a diesel in all respects, but you pay for it with economy when towing. I run 98 (tuned) which also adds up, but the extra power is worth it. Raced a mates new 500Nm diesel prado up an on ramp and was slowly pulling away until 70 and then just gapped by bus lengths from 70 to 140. Waiting to see if new prado gets the TT petrol option I am seeing for Lexus as I dont want anything bigger physical size wise or heavier (wood carting, getting through gaps/gates at my place, slopes, etc).

oof, Wife just came back from trip up north, averaged 6.2L and she just sits on cruise (i.e. you can beat cruise economy if you want to try hard). I'm currently averaging 11-12 in the 2t+ petrol Prado Just drive at 100km/h all the the time bro, don't stop/start, that's the key lol

Yeah I like my cars to look like cars and the Kona looks wack, the newest version looks kinda cool, but not for 70k. The Leaf looks ok, I like the Nismo one, but I won't drive a hatchback where I live (country roads, lots of criters, bullbar territory).

What EV? I see model 3's under 40k now, tempting. I dii about 350ks a week so Hybrid Camry fine, but more torque would be great. I mostly lean towards Hybrid Camry as a run about because I trust Toyota more than I trust Tesla.

Things really do be different in the city hey. Out here the Hybrid is just a rep car or family sedan doing the school run, either being driven at normal speeds or hyper speeds lol Maybe it's because we have f'all uber/ride share stuff here.

My interest in the hybrid is nothing to do with economy, it's because it's substantially faster and the CVT shits on the 6spd auto in the petrol 4cyls for drivability. With the hybrid you can actually overtake safely on single lane country roads uphill at 100km/h. I've not driven a 6cyl one to compare it to, but as far as 4cyls Camry's go, the Hybrid is the one to get.

I am still firmly in camp Camry Hybrid if I buy another daily.... WE have a fleet of them at work, excellent commuter (get the sport version for a few extra niceties that shoul.d be considered essentials...) I am that old...

If you are buying new, just get a spool kit, but better yet ask your engine builder what they like to use. I go with CP because my engine builder told me to. I also went Nitto I beams and CA625 rod bolts because my engine builder told me to. Research shows that's a strong rod/piston combo, but that's a 4 cyl trying to make more power than you air aiming for so the HP/L equation is worse. Have a quick look on marketplace at least, you would be surprised what stuff comes up for dirt cheap.

What are you gaining from it? You're not going to be re-using rods/pistons and your crank is likely fine with a polish/linish and at worst some different grade bearing shells? I'm not sure there's 2k of value in it for you? You can always buy it for peace of mind and keep it as a spare/sell if you find out it's not needed. Offer him $1500 for quick cash sale etc, always low ball.

That's rough, R34 GT-R was my dream build too so I did a mock up Z Tune build which I loved looking at, but not maintaining. Honestly, don't cut corners, just put a basic forged build together and know that the car is not being pushed to give you 300kw and there's always room to move if you want to plus it will sell better later. Buy once, cry once. That's my 2 cents.

What is the budget, what is the goal, What workshop is actually doing the work for you? I would define the variables first then start talking with the workshop, they often know of engines/parts around and will have a preferred machinist and can give some quotes so you can make informed decisions, at the moment it seems like you're just throwing ideas around (which is fine) but doesn't move the project forward. You already have a fresh head, you're only a set of rods/pistons/bolts/studs away from having a bottom end to match it and a motor that's basically brand new. You will be paying for machining and labour either way so that's already spent. That shouldn't come to 20k.

He probs doesn't wanna pay the BS wrecker prices. To be fair, for the prices they are asking ,you would expect them to be testing/proven etc, and I have seen plenty (across various platforms) that are straight up pieces of shit. Not saying this is the case here, but buyer beware etc.

The machine shop will do it for you. As was said, you need to remove all the oil gallery plugs, inc the crank, VVT solenoids/gears etc and clean everything thoroughly top to bottom then clean it again and when you think it's clean, clean it once more. As for upgrades that all depends on the goal, there's a number of basic things you would do with an engine apart if you have access/time/budget. N1 oil pump not needed for 300kw, oil restrictors and external drain is nice to have. I would be looking for a complete good engine with a known history and either building this current one on the side slowly or selling it for whatever you can get, and you will still need to be mindful of the turbo, external oil lines etc as bearing material ends up EVERYWHERE. 2k for a known good bottom end and a very thorough clean/service of the head is likely the cheapest/fastest route from where you are right now. Can you do all this work yourself or is this going to a workshop? As that has an impact on what you do also.

Yes deck surface can have soft spots, you would ideally check it for hardness (quick/cheap) but these blocks are not as prone to that as others. Guarantee you the shop will not clean it enough, it's your job to ensure its minty fresh clean as it's your wallet. Oil filter is not designed to filter that level of debris, oil coolers really cannot be cleaned out properly. You will want to have the turbo inspected at minimum incase it's already scored and I strongly suggest fitting Inline filter to the feed.

Haven't read the full thread but got tagged so here I am, sorry to hear this happened. Cheapest path forward is almost always buying a used running bottom end and putting your head on it or just buying a good used running motor and selling your head/keeping as spare. Bills $1500 build is stuff of legends honestly, I am no slouch at finding stuff online and my XR5 rebuild was still over 4k re-using stock rods and pistons, but including machining and a replacement crank etc and that was doing the labour myself - machining was an easy $1500. I did do new water pump, timing, every seal etc etc but it adds up fast. Forged build is always going to be 10-20k, depending on parts used etc. You do not want to use much of that bottom end now it's had bearing go through it, if it has an oil cooler that's in the bin, check the pump for scoring etc so you may have to replace a lot of that stuff out of necessity (turbo also) depending on how much bearing material and how long. It cannot be overstated how critical cleaning is after a bearing failure, not just a hot tank, oil gallery plugs out, manually cleaning with brushes, compressed air, and tons of brake cleaner. Not sure I'd want to do another build on an engine that spun a bearing unless I was not using a lot of the parts. Full disclosure, not a mechanic or engine builder and I don't know heaps about RBs anyway, take all this with a grain of salt. Your budget and timeline will determine best course of action, how much do you want to spend to fix this issue and how long can the car be off the road? P.S. Didn't even check this for typos...