No Crust Racing

Nice

Bosch washer here, but only a year in. Samsung one prior went 10yrs and got gifted still working but getting tired. Asko dishwasher was in the house over 5yrs before we got here, we've been here 5 years since 0_0 Panasonic fridge scrapped in 5yrs and wasn't getting cold enough anymore, couldn't find the issue. Mitsubishi replaced it, been a year, hope it goes hard for long time.

See what the total weight is for a given piston/rod assembly, including rings/pins/bearing shells, rod bolts. If you can just move parts around to get them all within 1g for a total assembly or so you are golden. If not, move them around such that the weight differences are minimal vs everything else, I.E don't put all your lightest things together on one piston/rod assembly as now you need to bring everything down. "Best" way is watch matching each component and adjusting as necessary, I only went as far as doing rods/pistons individually as the variance between ring sets/rod bolts/and shells was miniscule on a 3 decimal scale. Also using a rod weighing assembly so big and small end can be reviewed separately as there's more to it than just total weight. New forged rods will be basically spot on for this purpose, it'll only be the pistons that might need attention. Cast pistons usually vary a little, just depends on the batch, if you have to remove material you do it VERY gradually around the pin boss (where the gudgeon goes through) on the inside, do not touch the crown/skirts etc - lots of videos online. I'm waiting to see if a few 7k rpm trips blows a piston up from stress risers...

That's awesome! My piston/rod assemblies were up to 8g out of balance, machine shop said 3g is nice for a street engine on stock components so I balanced them down to 1g because I'm an idiot who thought spending literally 10hrs on that was a good idea...

I might have missed it but what was the answer the valve size question?

Be careful with that type of ring compressor they are known to snap rings. Single size tapered ring compressor from someone like is a better option but obviously only suits one bore size. Go slow, lots of lube, just generally good advice..

Yeah no windings logo/jap caption imports.

That is not 25-28k with under 100ks on it... 2018 INFINITI Q50 S Premium Hybrid Auto (carsales.com.au)

It all helps, the engine is the same so same water pump/thermostat housing issues i think.

Because inflation. Unrelated but what should I replace Mondeo with? 2016-17 era Passat R Line - AWD/FWD, DSG, turbo 2L 200kw (will add tune), more modern safety tech/features, use less fuel, probably faster once tuned, but maybe more euro headaches/repairs/issues because turbo and euro? or 2014 era Lexus IS350 F Sport - RWD, 8 spd conventional auto, 2GR NA v6 bulletproof engine, use more fuel, but probably never need any repairs (I have a 1GR in my Prado and it's bulletproof), but less exciting to drive maybe, maybe slower? I will likely tune it too. Maybe bit wanker image (I have to go see IT business clients in whatever i am using for tmy school run car). Both will be 25-28k, with 70-90ks or so Thanks

The price is only 1x M3 Competition.

You're gonna crush this

A lot of it is over stated I think, BUT, measure/check everything, again and again, and if something isn't right, find out why. You already seem to have a good handle on it and people around you, starting from a better point than me I think (didn't own a micrometer etc).

And if the grub screws aren't perfectly sealed you run the risk of losing a bit of oil pressure... Have you scared you enough yet?

I would be handing that one over to a machinist personally.

It shouldn't be too bad given it didn't spin a bearing. I'm not familiar with the RB crank, does it have grub screws/ball bearings you can remove to clean the galleries. This was a concern for me as the donor 5 pot had spun like every big end from being started repeatedly before I got it.

Yes we kinda realised.... The only way to learn how to build an engine is do it, I wish I had started with an RB/Barra and not the Volvo 5cyl though lol

No harm in trying the hone on the scrap block, common issue is getting the angle too shallow, you need to be moving up and down at a fairly reasonable rate from what I see. Re the shoe laced journals, did you measure them repeatedly in a heap of spots after? left side, right side, middle, rotating around 45 degrees each time etc etc? You wanna check for proper roundness and no taper as that shoe lace doesn't look wide enough to ensure even pressure across the entire journal surface at all times. Plastiguage is fine for mains to confirm, painful for big ends, but you already have the mic and the bore gauges so you can just do it as you would the big ends and get an exact number.

ve or vet? Why drive down? slap on pallet and send or do you want to personally inspect. Are we having a coffee on your way through?

Always check after machine Shop. That's how I found 2x oval big ends and they realised they stuffed up. It kept measuring out of round and I had to conclude I was actually right, and I was.

You just shut your filthy wh0re mouth.

I shouldn't be encouraged by this and wanting to build another engine but here we are...

My loins are suitably moistened.

Still the best workshop tool I've ever purchased

Great work Hoist gang represent!