No Crust Racing

Haven't read the full thread but got tagged so here I am, sorry to hear this happened. Cheapest path forward is almost always buying a used running bottom end and putting your head on it or just buying a good used running motor and selling your head/keeping as spare. Bills $1500 build is stuff of legends honestly, I am no slouch at finding stuff online and my XR5 rebuild was still over 4k re-using stock rods and pistons, but including machining and a replacement crank etc and that was doing the labour myself - machining was an easy $1500. I did do new water pump, timing, every seal etc etc but it adds up fast. Forged build is always going to be 10-20k, depending on parts used etc. You do not want to use much of that bottom end now it's had bearing go through it, if it has an oil cooler that's in the bin, check the pump for scoring etc so you may have to replace a lot of that stuff out of necessity (turbo also) depending on how much bearing material and how long. It cannot be overstated how critical cleaning is after a bearing failure, not just a hot tank, oil gallery plugs out, manually cleaning with brushes, compressed air, and tons of brake cleaner. Not sure I'd want to do another build on an engine that spun a bearing unless I was not using a lot of the parts. Full disclosure, not a mechanic or engine builder and I don't know heaps about RBs anyway, take all this with a grain of salt. Your budget and timeline will determine best course of action, how much do you want to spend to fix this issue and how long can the car be off the road? P.S. Didn't even check this for typos...

3-4 weeks 0_0 Fark

Nah, one box is self lubricating and self healing, one is not... You should know this from witnessing child birth

No I think he's saying that's what VW wants to do if asked to fix the fault, not that they will do it for free for him. Meaning labour $$$$ I would defs be asking for a good faith repair personally, but that all depends if they can see how many times Johnny has launched the F outta the car in the ECU/TCM lol

Hope it goes smoothly.

Do we have the same box in our Tig... Didn't you tell me they were reliable lol Could just be a sensor?

I think there a tiny bit left over in the expansion tank and lines which have been removed/spilled some down in between things. Just funny to see the green through an empty bay.

#justnissanthings Silvia is still somehow leaking tiny drops of coolant with no engine or radiator in it...

Looking good

Cheers for stopping by, appreciate you making the effort to go out of your way. That engine and gearbox combo looked like a great package, well done.

That was the plan if I keep it and send it off for a cage.

The advice came from a good panel beater mate of mine. Too rigid causes cracking in seam sealer (if used) and paint over top. Makes any repairs harder to do. There's always flex and having them fully welded can move the forces elsewhere. When removing the factory tubs, they were just spot welded in also. Re the towers, I'll only be stitching those at most, it wont be full seams. I think I'm comfortable going with his advice, was just asking what you did/how it's held up.

Any chance of swarf making its way into the pan?

Did you full weld those tubs in? I was advised to just stitch mine in to allow a small amount of flex and make it easier to remove/repair. Feels weird to not fully weld a piece of body panel though 0_0

I've got a 10L one, love it. Also have the basic SCA parts washer, that mostly sits there as an extra work surface but is very handy when needed.

Good news mate - well done for no crunchy noises Ya just gotta asleep it off, go rest.

Sorry to hear on both fronts. We had our 2nd round a few weks ago, thanks kids.

Bro, you don't say the quiet parts out loud....

For me a few things compounded the issue. - Wanting to learn a few aspects, such as hand lapping valve seats (10hrs-20hrs) - Wanting to balance the rotating assembly down to 1g on cast parts, (15hrs easy) - Not knowing this wack FWD platform, 10hrs to remove to remove the subframe/engine etc - Having never used mic or bore guages etc, thinking I was doing it wrong, finding out 2 rods were oval and I was correct (10hrs easy). And the list goes on, each shed session was 60-90mins so it takes a lot of them On the contrary, when I sold the CA/Box/ECU it was 3hrs to remove, split, put on a pallet solo having never done it before. This is the reason that the XR5 will get sold and I will go back to a JDM daily. Euro stuff is painful to work on.

That sucks about the pipe. Life loves to bend you over sometimes. Catch can idea seems sound to me.

I am embarrassed by how long mine took given what you've gotten done 0_0

Mega effort mate well done. If it makes you feel better... - My new front and rear mains leaked immediately, meaning I had to redo timing again and remove gearbox to replace. - When testing the rear main ws good I had the selector cables off the box (box in neutral, no drive shafts in) but there was enough vibration for it try and grab a gear at idle speeds and it spat the diff shims out, so box had to come out again... There's always "something".

We all gave him some options and opinions, he can choose the one he likes. Move on.

It seems 2 out 2 handsome DIY mechanics agree that you can get away without it.

They help, especially if you are going solo This job is 10x easier with a second set of hands and if you have a helper, you can get away without the leveler. I also used ratcheting straps to help change angles. It's cheap, can sell later and recover most of the cost if you want to.