No Crust Racing

Because inflation. Unrelated but what should I replace Mondeo with? 2016-17 era Passat R Line - AWD/FWD, DSG, turbo 2L 200kw (will add tune), more modern safety tech/features, use less fuel, probably faster once tuned, but maybe more euro headaches/repairs/issues because turbo and euro? or 2014 era Lexus IS350 F Sport - RWD, 8 spd conventional auto, 2GR NA v6 bulletproof engine, use more fuel, but probably never need any repairs (I have a 1GR in my Prado and it's bulletproof), but less exciting to drive maybe, maybe slower? I will likely tune it too. Maybe bit wanker image (I have to go see IT business clients in whatever i am using for tmy school run car). Both will be 25-28k, with 70-90ks or so Thanks

The price is only 1x M3 Competition.

You're gonna crush this

A lot of it is over stated I think, BUT, measure/check everything, again and again, and if something isn't right, find out why. You already seem to have a good handle on it and people around you, starting from a better point than me I think (didn't own a micrometer etc).

And if the grub screws aren't perfectly sealed you run the risk of losing a bit of oil pressure... Have you scared you enough yet?

I would be handing that one over to a machinist personally.

It shouldn't be too bad given it didn't spin a bearing. I'm not familiar with the RB crank, does it have grub screws/ball bearings you can remove to clean the galleries. This was a concern for me as the donor 5 pot had spun like every big end from being started repeatedly before I got it.

Yes we kinda realised.... The only way to learn how to build an engine is do it, I wish I had started with an RB/Barra and not the Volvo 5cyl though lol

No harm in trying the hone on the scrap block, common issue is getting the angle too shallow, you need to be moving up and down at a fairly reasonable rate from what I see. Re the shoe laced journals, did you measure them repeatedly in a heap of spots after? left side, right side, middle, rotating around 45 degrees each time etc etc? You wanna check for proper roundness and no taper as that shoe lace doesn't look wide enough to ensure even pressure across the entire journal surface at all times. Plastiguage is fine for mains to confirm, painful for big ends, but you already have the mic and the bore gauges so you can just do it as you would the big ends and get an exact number.

ve or vet? Why drive down? slap on pallet and send or do you want to personally inspect. Are we having a coffee on your way through?

Always check after machine Shop. That's how I found 2x oval big ends and they realised they stuffed up. It kept measuring out of round and I had to conclude I was actually right, and I was.

You just shut your filthy wh0re mouth.

I shouldn't be encouraged by this and wanting to build another engine but here we are...

My loins are suitably moistened.

Still the best workshop tool I've ever purchased

Great work Hoist gang represent!

No doubt a nice 3 angle valve job with a proper machine is better. The process I used was advised to me by an engine builder who has worked with Toyota factory racing teams in the US, literally chats with CEO and showed me a photo of him with the Stig - dude is very knowledgeable and well connected. Was told that If you cannot get a shop to do it, this way will be more than good enough for the type of engine you are building etc. When I spoke to the shop who could not get me in he told me lapping them in this way to set lash spot on was overkill for a street engine but he admired the effort. I wanted to learn and I have Already thing about what to build next lol

Next build I will be sending the head in to be done for me, I would have spent easy 8-10hrs lapping valves in to set the lash and messing about with valve stem seals (was learning though) and I think most places will do new stem seals, guides, deck it, and set your lash for like $800 or so. My issue was he was not available for 3-4wks.

Ask in the RB group on FB, prob have a definite answer in a few minutes. Odd it's not clearer for such a common platform.

I'd talk to your local preferred head builder, unless you are planning to do the work yourself? They will have appropriate guides and know what fits. From what I can see in/ex is same both sides at 5.95mm ID

Nothing wrong with OEM at modest power levels so long as you keep the head clamped down with good studs. I ran Hylomar spray on the CA one also as it was advised, not sure if it's a good thing or not but I had no issues and had lightly resurfaced the block myself (head was decked). Would neo have different oil feed line in the gasket for the intake variable timing actuator?

Not terrible, could've been much worse. Fingers crossed

Found a spare 25 neo linking him to this thread/trying to get details.

I've PM'd a few contacts and just chucked in on the NCR user profile, you can watch the post and see if anything comes of it. If my mates turn up something I will let you know, they are usually pretty good at coming back to me quickly.

I know a guy down your way, let me message him.