Chegs

Hi there, i had a similar prob with my 33. it cost me a heap to send it to the auto elec and he didnt fix it. just cleaning the afm will not fix it. you need to remove the cover off the top and resolder the 4/5 joints in there. just resolder, then make sure you resilicone the top on well to prevent water getting in. you never know, it could fix it for you. apparently this is a common prob on cars with pods, such as yours.

hey mate, have you tried resoldering the joints inside the afm or just cleaned the plug out with contact cleaner? i spent a thousand bucks chasing a missfire/idle prob and i eventually fixed it myself for nuthin. pulled the afm apart and resoldered the joints inside. runs perfect now.

Hey, i dont know if this is the right area to post this, but anyway, i followed a white r33 home today, and it had a GTS-R badge on the back. it was a coupe and appeared to be a gtst. I have never seen a badge like that before so im wondering if its just an eb@y thing??

thanks pimpenr33 u were spot on.

I found through a bit of searching on sau that cars with pods seem to have the afm break quite frequently due to vibration. when i removed my plug, the solder joints were not even joining, so much so that i just pulled the plug out of the afm. Its a bit fiddly to get that silicon off the afm, but its cheap and easy. ive since realised that is why my car has been running horribly for months. If you do a search on air flow meters you will turn up something helpful.

Hi everybody, thanks for the help. i took the plug out of my afm, resoldered it and car goes like a dream. I too thought it was the crank angle sensor, but had the same symptoms of stalling and funny idle. I replaced all the coils and plugs but it would just cut all power for a few seconds and then come good again. instead of changing the afm, pull the plug off, unscrew the plug body on the afm and prise off the top cover. resolder the 5? joints and reglue on top cover and screw housing back in, worked fine for me and cost nuthin. Thanks.

Hey guys, i have been having an intermittent problem with my r33 gtst for a few weeks now. when driving along, it just stops firing on all cylinders and dies, but picks up again before it stalls. i have just replaced the coils and plugs, so i think it may be the crank sensor. has anyone ever experienced a similar problem before?? its really bugging me and any insight as to what may be wrong would be greatly appreciated Thanks, Bill

hey everyone, my r33 gtst has developed a problem where if im driving along, the engine seems to missfire on all cylinders at once eg crank sensor not working, only for a second or two, then comes good and goes fine. all wiring that i can see is intact and the only ideas i have are crank sensor and bad earth. has anybody had a problem like this?? any help would be appreciated. thanks heaps, Bill

Im doin the nut up bloody tight with a good extension bar, and using the lock cover and split pin, but the bearing seems to come out of preload and only run on the outside roller, rooting the bearing in weeks. im a fitter by trade, so i understand what im doing, but there seems to be a large difference in size between the brg and the shaft, which wouldnt normally close up by preload. so i figured i might try a new hub and see if that fixes my problem.

Hey everyone, my r33 gtst has been having a healthy appetite for rear left wheel bearings and im wondering if anybody knows the correct torque setting for the axle nut. My bearings keep coming loose for some reason. My last resort is to get a new drive hub and try that, as i think the one on my car must be worn. any help would be much appreciated. Bill

Hey everyone, i have owned an r33 for over 12 months now, and up until the weekend, i could open the boot with the release cable in the cabin( my key doesnt fit the boot lock). on the weekend however, i shut the boot and it locked itself, leaving me with no option but to drill the lock out. has anybody ever come across this problem before, and if so, once i get a new lock, how do i stop it locking itself?? Thanks, Bill

Hey everyone, im having problems with my rear left wheel brg/drive hub assembly in my 33 gtst. It has gone through two wheel bearings in 3 months, even though i have made sure the axle nut is tight. It seems that the Od of the drive spline that the brg mounts on is worn or tapered, thus stopping the back bearing from contacting proplerly. Has anyone had this problem before and any ideas on fixing this?? im trying to source another drive hub to see if this fixes the problem. What would the torque settings be for the rear axle nuts?? Thanking you, Bill

Hey dude, im pretty sure that is ur hicas computer, controls the angles of the rear wheels.

Hi all, I have a dead front left wheel bearing and am wondering if anybody knew the part number for front wheel bearings r33. I work in a bearing shop and it would save me the crap of trying to find the right part. I know the rear comes as a hub assembly but what does the front assembly consist of?? Thanks, Bill

Hey everyone, i cleaned my engine bay a while ago and had the prob of it not starting. Just make sure not to get water into the coil packs and ur right Foznice, ur 100% right. if u want your electrics to dry out and rust to sh@t, use wd40. i would use lanoline spray as it is tacky but doesnt wash off or evaporate. I only use lanoline spray at work as stock on the shelf rusts anyway with wd40.