Hakai

Thanks for the support, it is a brilliant monitor. I ran it on a 7800GTX before we moved house and started using it for home entertainment. Would love to see an xbox360 on it *drool*. Still waiting on confirm/deny of current sale. Will update. Cheers, ben.

Not yet. As I said, moving house and getting screwed out of $2,000 severence pay from old job = bad finances at the moment, I'll be replacing all 6 plugs with 0.8mm factory gapped coppers as soon as I can afford it. That said, with the plug gapped to 0.8mm it's running fine for now, which is good

Well I habe some updates, good ones! I pulled out the coilpacks after I wrote my previous post, and remembering that I'd swapped the spark plug from #5 and #1 around. It seems the fouling on the top of the plug, followed the plug! So #5 was no longer fouling at all and the top of plug #1 was fouled up. Conclusion, maybe the coil pack when it was faulty and arcing, or whatever it did that caused the carbon to burn away and wreck the coilpack, damaged the plug as well and reduced its integrity under load? Either way I took out all 6 plugs, regapped them to 0.8mm and took it for a spin. After a few 2nd through 3rd 6000rpm runs with no missfire I was smiling Did my shopping and retested on the way home, still no missfire, I'll give it another test tonight in the really cold to see how she goes then. Either way it's not missfiring now, and it feels a little bit smoother to drive too and the exhaust note seems to have changed ever so slightly, but my exhaust is so quiet I might be imagining it, just sounds a -tiny- bit throatier. Maybe I just wish it was Thanks to everyone for the advice/help, it's much appreciated. I still plan on replacing the fuel filter and pump, and the plugs/oil, it's all just a matter of money isn't it Anyone know anyone on the Gold Coast looking to hire a casual for some 6-12pm shifts monday to friday? Need a 2nd job, afford make car go fast hah Cheers all, Ben.

Fuel pump is original I think, as the fuel filter might be too, who knows. I will replace fuel filter as soon as I can and pump when I have the money. If it was fuel though and I was leaning out, wouldn't it be sensible that it would be not just the one cylinder? Not trying to say I won't upgrade the fuel system, I fully intend on doing it, just a question, trying to get the knowledge into my head heh. As for a dyno, you live on the coast, same as me, where is a reputable place to go, and what should I expect to pay for a checkup like that? What should I go in and ask them to do? I was considering getting a remap done, should I just wait for that then get it checked, since they recommend getting the A/F ratios checked after you plug in the new ROM anyway? I already thought of the fact it might be the plug itself although there was no sign of wear or damage on it, so I swapped plugs #1 and #5. I also thought about swapping the coils, but I figure doing it one step at a time is the best way, if you do two things at once and the problem moves to the new location or disappears, you don't know which of the two it was for sure, so I'm about to pull all my plugs out, regap them to 0.8mm and swap coilpack #5 with #1, assuming it's not the plug, which I'll know soon enough. I don't particularly think the plugs need replacing, they are only 8000kms old, (Same as my oil, I know it's bad, don't shoot me, it's getting done as soon as I get the $90 for a bottle of oil heh, moving house = no money) and they're iridiums, aren't they supposed to last ~25,000kms? Sorry for all the continued questions, thanks for the advice and insight, every bit helps Cheers, Ben. *EDIT* This is the ECU remap I was thinking of going with [link]http://grapevine.com.au/~marzenna/[/link]. Unless you can tell me of a better one, possibly one that's done in house on the gold coast, obviously I'd prefer that to a mail order one. And also I hear alot of people saying copper plugs are better in the RB engines than iridiums, true or false, what brand and part number am I asking for if I get coppers for an RB20?

Will do man, thanks. Can't help but panic sometimes though, when the pride and joy is playing up and I don't have all the knowledge on my own to fix it up nice and quick Any special way I should gap them, or just put the spacer in and squash it down? As for the fuel filter, I don't honestly know. Aren't they legally supposed to change all filters/oils/coolants when the car is first imported from japan? If that is the case then march last year, if not, then I have no clue and will change it as soon as I get the cash to buy a new one New fuel pump would probably be on the cards too I'd imagine. Thanks for the help fellas, Cheers, Ben. *EDIT* Oh and lsatly, the coil pack on #5 is a 2nd hand one and even after cleaning it out with de-rust, wd40 and fine grit sand paper it's still not as clean as the other 5, they look like they're brand new, so you're probably right on that one, however, could it be the ignition pack (If that's what you call that square box that feeds the leads to the coil packs) being faulty?

Is there any reason it would only be missfiring on cylinder #5? I've read numerous places that the further back from the plenum you go the leaner the cylinder runs, is this true, could this be why it's doing it to only #5, but if #5, wouldn't #6 be missing too? The reason I am assuming it's #5 still is because even though I've replaced the coilpack, the carbon shim that contacts the tip of the plug, and the tip of the plug itself seem to be fouling up (With like a black dust type substance) and the other cylinders aren't doing it. I'll give the 0.8mm gapping a shot, what is the best way to crimp down the bit that overhangs the tip safely without damaging it, is there a set proceedure? Cheers, Ben.

Hey guys, First off I have a 1990 R32 GTS-T. Mods include. FMIC, K&N Pod, GFB Vent/Plumback BOV, 2.5" Catback Exhaust (Was there when I bought it, I didn't do that). After having the intercooler fitted, then going over the pipework, because the guys who did it were slack, I noticed the boost increase to ~11psi, or so says my boost gauge. Anyway on to the problem. About 2 weeks ago I noticed it missfiring when booting it after about 4500rpm. It would miss a few times between 4500 and about 5500 then be ok to redline most of the time. I pulled out all my coil packs after every bit of advice I got pointed to them, and presto, #5 had the carbon shim or whatever you call it, burnt completely in half and fallen out of the spring. Yesterday I finally got a new coilpack, after driving the car around limping under 4000rpm (Yes it hurt ). I completely cleaned out and taped up the new (2nd hand) coilpack before putting it in, as well I removed the other 5 coil packs and gave them a clean and tape up too. However they looked almost new. Anyway, once that was done, about 5:30pm, I took her for a spin after really letting her warm up. Ran unbelievably, boost built faster than I remembered it doing before, pulled hard all the way to redline, every time, no hiccups at all. I was stoked as you can imagine. Then last night I went to the movies, movie finished about 11:15pm, it was bloody cold. I thought ooh nice, cold air, time for some fun, so I warmed the car up then belted it down the highway on the way home. It started missfiring again, almost identically.... I could have cried. I thought it might just have been that the fuel system or ignition system wasn't up to it, the air being so cold (And obviously dense), running higher than standard boost without an ECU remap or aftermaket ECU, is this a possibility? This morning I took out the old culprit coilpack #5, the coilpack is in good working condition still, or I'd take it back, but there is black buildup on it already, like it's fouling up. I'm really confused, seems to be just #5 doing it as the missfire is exactly the same? What could possibly cause this? Faulty igniter? Faulty leads to the coilpacks? The cold air + extra boost + stock ecu not coping with fuelling (But why only #5 and not all of them)???? Any help would be greatly appreciated guys. Sorry for the long post, didn't want to leave anything out. Cheers, Ben. *UPDATE* Took the car for a drive this morning. Seems that it only missfires when under boost over ~9Psi (Which is what it ran when I got it, it runs about ~11Psi now, after installing the FMIC etc). Anything less and it revs out perfectly. Could this be a fuelling problem, injectors need cleaning? As I said before, faulty igniter? I'm using NGK Iridium plugs, with the code -11 on the end, which I assume means 1.1mm gap. Would gapping the plugs to 0.8mm help? Remembering this is only seeming to missfire on cyl #5. I was thinking more along the lines of a fuelling problem, but I really don't know, any help would be appreciated once again. Cheers.

Sorry for the late update people, internet crapped out last day or so. Currently have a sale in the works at $1,000. I've gotten two PMs, both have been replied to, if the sale falls through I'll update again. Sorry again for the late update. Cheers, Ben.

Well, I guess it aint worth $900 to anyone, so I can't beat the dead horse anymore. I'll take $800 if anyone's interested. Ben.

Heh, I included Tomshardware because they are quite professional in their reviews, also because I am very confident with the monitor itself. They point out some flaws yes, but they also say that it has some of the absolute best results of any monitor they'd tested to date, two extremes, you have to consider both. In regards to them bagging it a few different ways, as I said, the ghosting is not visible. I am/was an avid gamer, playing everything from Quake4, FEAR, WoW on it, and they were spectacular, I never noticed any ghosting to speak of. Same with movies, my roommates and I currently watch movies on it nightly, every person who comes over and sees a movie on it for the first time, comments on how awsome it is for watching DVDs on, those parts of the Tomshardware review I can refute from experience, and can only put their results down to the fact that they are extremely picky, which they are. $900 I'll do, but it is in perfect condition as I've said, it's just not worth me selling it less. Besides, $700 won't cover the bills I'm selling it to pay so it voids the entire reason for the sale It's a great monitor and while I appreciate the offers, I honestly can't afford to sell it below $900, even if I wanted to. It is well worth the money and you wouldn't be disappointed with it at all. Balance of warranty, 3 years next business day replacement on parts, full box, all cables, everything, like new. Cheers, Ben.

Sorry for the stupid question but will the coilpacks from an RB26 replace the ones in an RB20? If so, do you still have any of them left?

$600 is a tad low don't you think? It's less than 6 months old, in perfect condition, all original packaging with 2.5+ years left on next business day replacement warranty... The new model 2407FPW is out, retailing for $1,599 and the only difference between the two is HDMI support over DVI-D. $900 + postage would be the lowest I'd go, anything less and it's not worth selling, sorry. (Just checked the current ebay asking price, and it sits on average at US$600 + US$80 postage.) I don't have a digital camera so I can't take pics of my exact screen but I'll give you some links to reviews with pics, I can't do much better than that. Jaded Gamer Review XBox360 on 2405FPW (1080 Hi-Def) Just another pic Tom's Hardware Review In regards to the Tom's Hardware review, in the end of the review they say the monitor's latency isn't acceptable for gaming and that ghosting is very evident in both gaming and movies. I can say from experience that this is in fact not true. Games are unbelievable on this screen and movies are just as good. The viewing angle is awsome, as I said it's currently being used as the display for our home theatre, DVDs are watchable from any angle of our lounge room with no problems at all.

Monitor is less than 6 months old, currently being used as the centre of our home entertainment system. It supports D-SUB, DVI-D, Component, Composite and S-Video inputs, all can be used simultaneously except for D-SUB and DVI-D which can't be used together. I have all original packaging and cables, balance of 3 year, next business day replacement, parts warranty. Retailed for about $1,600 when I bought it. Absolutely nothing wrong with it, no dead pixels, no faults, nothing, selling because I need cash pretty bad after being screwed by my old job while moving house heh I am asking $1,000 + postage to wherever. I live on the Gold Coast and can obviously organise pickup from anywhere nearby. Email is the best way to reach me ([email protected]), I'll check back here as often as I can but I can check email more. Cheers, Ben.

I am really confused now... What engine is that? And what car is it in, sorry for the newbie question but I've never seen one.... I've seen the engine bays of 32-33 GTS-T and GTR's and never seen that engine before, please enlighten :>) RB25DET N1??? Just a guess?

So, it's crowded in there and the heat decay being really slow is normal. The heating up quick (1-2kms, that's pretty much what mine does) is normal too!! I love you guys Thanks heaps.

First off, I really do apologise if this has been covered before, I tried the search function for about 30min and found nothing of help to me. I recently bought my first Skyline, also my first Turbo car. Absolutely amazing to drive. The suspension is far from standard, adjustable, I believe but am yet to confirm as coilovers. Exhaust is awsome, nice low growl, non intrusive, immaculate interior etc. Sorry this is all irrelevant, I'm just soo happy with the car Engine is 100% stock. I've read alot here about people buying cars with idiotic and dangerous engine mods, mine is, as far as I can tell and see, completely standard. Problem is this, although I don't know if it's a problem or not, hence the question The temp the coolant runs at has be worried a little. My cars before this were a 5speed VL (RB30), and an N14 Pulsar. Both ran at about 33% of the temp gauge for normal operation. The Skyline runs at about 60-66% of the temp gauge. I checked the coolant, it was dirty dirty brown and stunk like sh!t. I did my first radiator flush/refill on it, gotta learn somehow I guess heh. Was cumbersom, but after a few hours and a few stops to check coolant level, I got it sorted and now the level is fine and overflow is fine. However; Temp still sits on 60-66% of the gauge. The other issue I'm worried about is the fact that after about 2-3 hours of being off, the engine retains a rather large amount of heat. I just stopped in at a mates for 2 hours, gauge was at normal 60-66% reading when turbo timer turned the car off. Got back in 2 hrs after it turned off, gauge was still at about 45% reading before I kicked her over. Quickly heated back up to around 66% and sat there as it always does. I'm really concerned, this is probably the most idiotic, newbie question ever asked, but I am so happy with the car and if anything is wrong I really want to know fast so I can get the thing fixed and continue to enjoy the brilliant drive If nothing is wrong, call me a moron and I'll still be happy Please, let me know if this is normal operating temperature and/or normal temperature decay (as in the engine as a rule retains heat this way for everyone), or if it's fine and I can stop worrying. Just a note: Tonight, after the 2 hrs stop, I popped the bonnet before I started her to see if maybe the engine was cool, and maybe the sensor for the temp gauge was faulty, but the actual engine (rocker cover, inlet manifold etc) was still very warm. Thanks in advance and apologies for the long repetetive post. I'm tierd and concerned Regards, Ben.