Booya

Crap, Well mine is roughly the same as all you guys. When the car warms up, they come on and stay on until you turn of the car. And since yesterday my car is running like a piece of crap. Sounds like its running on 5 cylinders. Yes the wrx noise. Let me know if you guys find a place of where to get them. Ill have a look around aswell.

Thats not what everyone else syas who has the manual ones. Check out the thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ic=73375&st=700

Coil packs? what are they? Part I - Background What is a coil pack? Thanks for asking. The coil pack replaces distributor caps on "new and improved" ignition system. Instead of having a rotor and distributor cap "distribute" the ignition spark to individual cylinders at the right time and order, the spark is controlled electronically though the electronic ignition system. The coil pack is where the actual electrical current (spark) is sent to each spark plug via the wires. The pack is generally comprised of a metal base with a plastic top (insulates the metallic parts so the current is not immediately grounded). The coil pack is located on the right side of the engine (look from the front) under the plastic manifold covers. Just follow the pretty spark plug wires to the end and they attach to the coil pack. It seems that the VR6 coil packs (at least pre 98's) just suck. I am not sure if the plastic is not formulated properly, if the molding is not performed properly or if the design does not distribute stress/heat well but by listening to the problems people on this list have had, the coil pack is NOT a quality part. Either that or it is designed obsolescence, keeping the dealer stocked with easy, $500 repairs every 30,000 miles. Part II - Diagnosis If you have noticed that on cool, damp days or after driving in the rain (especially on the highway, especially behind cars/trucks) the engine is running rough and misfiring, chances are the coil pack has a crack(s). When this happens, the "check engine light" WILL come on immediately, because the emissions just went to hell. If possible, pull over and pop the hood ASAP. If it is a cracked coil pack you will notice (at least I did each time there was a problem): a fairly loud "snapping" or "clicking" sound immediately followed by a rough spot in the idle. visible sparks running along the coil pack, generally from the wire terminal (where the spark plug wires attach) towards the metal part of the coil pack. Each spark is tracing a water filled crack and grounding the spark to the engine block rather than travelling along the spark plug wire. Try to remember or draw the location of the sparks. If you cannot pull over, or if you want to check later after the weather gets a bit nicer you can easily simulate rain. Get a plant spray bottle/mister and fill with clean water. Start up the engine and give the coil pack area a good misting with the bottle. It may take a few sprays to get the pack nice and wet. This should start the light show again. Try to remember where the crack(s) is or make a sketch. You now know you have the dreaded cracked coil pack. But have no fear, there are options... Part III - Repair Options Take car to dealer, tell them the coil pack is bad. They will respond "that's nice but we will have to confirm" ($56.49). They will then call back several hours later saying "you have a bad coil pack" (duh) and that for just $350 in parts and $100 in labor we can put on a new one. So pony up $500. Lucky for you, there are engineers out here who just can't stand it when a biased party tells me that an inferior part needs to be replaced with the same inferior part. So like all good men, especially engineers, I start to tinker. Leading to a "fix" that has worked for 11,000 miles so far - The $3.49 Epoxy Solution. Part IV - The $3.49 Epoxy Solution Drive a different car to Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. and get a package of high strength, high temperature epoxy. I *think* the brand I used was "Poxy-Weld"? It is the classic twin tube syringe, silver in color with a cardboard packaging display that unfolded to give product information. It is made to repair metal, plastic, etc. with higher operating temperatures. It has Kevlar flakes to add strength. I think the one I used was rated to 250 or 350 degrees. It was like $3.49 for the tube. In order to make the repair you will need: torx wrenches or driver allen (hex) wrenches or driver damp rag hair dryer epoxy 12 hours (1 hour working, 11 hours waiting) Coil pack removal. This is very easy. First remove the plastic manifold covers. This requires torx head wrenches/driver. IMPORTANT. Before trying to loosen the screws, bang the top of the wrench/driver with a hammer while the wrench/driver is on the screw. Aluminum tends to "corrode" quickly (look at the manifold) and slightly bond to itself. By hitting with a hammer, the bond is broken and the screws can be easily removed. I know this from experience (ie partially stripped screw heads). If you strip the screw heads, I used a slightly larger allen wrench and literally hammered it into the torx grooves. Of course you then need new screws ($12). Once the four screws are out, plastic covers come off easily. You can now see the whole coil pack. Unplug the wire harness attached to the top of the coil pack and move it out of the way. If I remember right it has pinch clips on the side to unlock the harness. Unplug the spark plug wires. Make a diagram of which plug number goes where. The coil pack is held to the engine block by four, long allen (hex) screws. I found a hex driver with an articulated joint made the removal easier. A socket wrench should also work. Unscrew and remove the pack. It is a bit heavier than you might think so be careful when removing the last two screws. Take coil pack inside. Ignore the "you are not a mechanic" insults coming from the living room (be the ball Danny). Take off plastic cover on the top of the pack (just pop over the small clips). Wash off the coil pack with a damp cloth. If it is really dirty, a bit of Dawn can work wonders. Just make sure to wipe off the soap well. You will now want to dry the pack WELL with the hair dryer. I was probably a bit anal about it but I sat in front of the TV for like 20 minutes just drying the pack. Since there is no real way to tell if all the water is out of the cracks, I was conservative. You are now ready for the epoxy. Mix a healthy amount is a small disposable container. I used a popsicle stick to mix and spread. Start applying a liberal coat of epoxy. The first time I did it, I only covered the places I had seen sparks. Of course about two weeks after the first fix, a new crack or one I had not seen developed so I did it again. This time I covered the entire plastic portion of the coil pack. Concentrate on the area between each terminal and the edge of the pack. No problem since. So either coat the cracked areas or just do the whole thing. I would recommend the whole thing. The epoxy tends to get a bit sticky so it may work best doing two batchings. Set coil pack in a warm place to dry overnight. I did this in December so by a radiator worked well. Just don't put outside since it makes the curing take a lot longer. Reinstall the next morning. I actually did this before work one day and it took all of about 10 minutes. Put plastic cover back on pack. Install pack with four hex bolts and reattach the wire harness. Plug in spark plug wires in SAME LOCATIONS. Install plastic manifold covers (I put some grease on the aluminum screws before installing to prevent locking). Start car and she should be running like new. It will take at least 3 warm-up/cool-down cycles to reset the "check engine light" I hope this helps those interested. It has worked like a dream for me. And at 3.49 vs. 500.00 it is a no brainer to at least try it. Worst case you know how to install the pack and can just order the part from a mail order place (Adirondack, potter, etc.) saving the dealer rape. I would actually recommend doing this as preventative maintenance. It's cheap, easy and can same some significant bucks. If I ever HAVE to get a new pack I will do it before installing, just to reinforce it against cracks. Feel free to write back with any questions.

Well got lots of question about incresing HP in my R34. It came with Blitz FMIC and blow off valve, POD, SAFC II Stainless Steel exhaust Cat Back. Car is Tiptronic Auto Im thinking about ordering a boost controller from mark Williams $35 buks. Not sure how to fit it either. Any ideas on where to get my car dynoed and tuned in Perth, a good place? wanna get the SAFC II tuned properly. Also any ideas guys on what to to improve power from here?

When i took mine over the pits i didnt dear ask them, hey is this legal or what! LOL

Dammit, what the hell have a got FMIC for then? So the only way to increase power and get a good user out of the FMIC is to get a bigger turbo? Im yet to get mine dynoed, very soon though.

So how much fun are they. I wanna try it on a shit box, gf dhiatsu and my R34, just for fun! And they are straight pug in and work?

Anyone had one of these and if they work? Sounds like a gimic but im interested to see if anyone has used one fo these. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GTech-Pro-Nissan-Sk...1QQcmdZViewItem

Let me know how it goes. I havnt had a chance to take it to get it looked at yet. Dam annoiing that they keep coming up though. Doesnt seem to hinder any performance.

Mine comes on now everytime now. If the car is cold not started from night before, it takes a little while to come on, otherwise it comes on almost instantaneous. And i dont want to reset the ECU as it will prob chnage my SAC II Settings

I dont know where i would start on this problem anyway......... Would reseting the ECU effect the settings on the SAFCII? I dont know anything about the wiring on the SAFCII so id be lost on this one. Guess ill just follow the wires back and check all i can.

Shit im getting the same thing. Anyone know a good mechanic in perth that has a scan tool. I have no idea how to check the consult plugs

I got quoted $1216 from HBF for a R34.......................... And im 25 with 60% & NCB??? from what you guys said it seems your getting it cheaper.......Geez im gona ring them back

Took mine over the pits on Friday. The blow off valve was fine and its pretty loud aswell. The things to watch out for are leaking shocks hahaha as mine was leaking a bit before so i just wiped it and hey presto passed! And had to also get child restraining seats as someone had removed them previously in r34. There not to harsh on things and if it fails you just fix up whatever and they only check the second time around the things that failed.

Dont know. Na cant be bothered chasing this around now. Just gona get this done for 340. not worth the hassle of a few buks

245/35R19 Hankook K104 Wheels world $410 Greg Tyres Cannington $335 Tyre Wholesalers Midlan $340 (booked in as its close to my place) Commercial tyres Bayswater $316 Thompsons Tyres malaga $332

245/35R19 Hankook K104 Wheels world $410 Greg Tyres Cannington $335 Tyre Wholesalers Midlan $340 (booked in as its close to my place) Commercial tyres Bayswater $316 Thompsons Tyres malaga $332

Got a quote on a Hankook Ventus K104 Size 245/35 R19 and it was $410 fitted. I was like woooaaaa for 1 tyre............. Any help from a perth dealer appreciated.

They want $410 club price. f*k didnt realise they were so expensive.

Anyone know a good dealer to get Hakook's K104 245/35R19 Tyres. I managed to blow out one of my rears last night and have to get it replaced. Any idea on costing aswell.

Consult Plug? No idea where or what it is.

Was at the Mechanics yesterday trying to get the Rear shocks replaced and they couldnt get the part as the shocks are the same ones used on the R34 GTR. It has the Square end instead of the round hole thingy. Was a annoid that i wasted a whole day trying to get this fixed. Dammit! Then he said he could get Koni's $500 for the pair and then 160 for fitting! God dam!

Anyone have any idea?

Hey guys im getting the dash lights coming on in my gt-t and im not sure what it may be. Possible gearbox problem. The car is a 98 Auto GT-T and the "slip", "tranction control off" and "engine" light come on every now and then and once it comes on it stays on until i switch the car off. Any ideas on what it may be?

Only got these pics since ive only just got the car. Yeah def have to hang around SAU more! I need to learn more