rb26s13
-
Posts
973 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
100%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by rb26s13
-
-
you'd be better off goin custom.. and looking at your previous threads i noticed your townsvillian.. just go see highflow ive heard he does quite good work for a reasonable price..
-
DiRT smelled a rat...and indeed his nose has been vindicated...there was something not right and now its been highlighted by the tuner as fact.
Ok...back to discussing this monster R34
My balls are far too small to drive a car that nuts on the road! Yes H@ME the owner certainly is looking over his shoulder for the men in white coats.
Im having trouble working out what is more awesome in this thread...this car...or Johnny's avatar.
i vote for johnnys avatar happening on the bonnet of this r34. win win.
and i take it you mean the injectors infact being different to what was stated as the rat..
regardless tho.. well done trent great work.
-
i dare you to try and drive my car without double clutching and rev matching on the down shifts......
i'll gladly do it for you next time im down that way
-
bleed the clutch line still.. and perhaps adjust the rod inside the cabin at the top of the pedal.
-
just a guess.. could it possibly be a nics rb20 suited 2530?
-
thats great info mate, thank you. a few questions
1. how did you drill the hole?
2. do you need to heat the manifold red hot before you weld?
as for the whole.. pre heat the metal than oxy cut the whole.. than die grind the rest would be the easiest
not red hot.. just cast needs to be pre heated and post heating after welding.. around the 200degreeC mark should do it before welding to avoid cracking.. and it needs to cool down very slowly... so no dipping it in water after its been welded!
-
head gasket will be the same as all other rb25's with vct.
-
from memory, anna (msnismo) has a .63 rear version and is on full boost a smidge before 4000. that's using cams and a fancy manifold.
from memory finelines setup is a .82 and on full boost between 3500 and 4000 on well built motor with cams and headwork doin 500rwhp (well it was before the JB clutch exploded)
-
specs of the ARMS B7660 look similar to the 2860-5's however have a smaller comp housing...
ARMS B7655 look similar to -7's but again smaller comp housing from memory.. cant be bothered looking into more details at moment.. will do tomorrow if someone doesnt answer it properly before than
-
You can buy them brand new delivered for $308.....
Maybe drop the price a little??
does that include plug tho? and note the plugs ive got with these are your bullshit circlip type.. there the more expensive bosch type thats easier to use. and please feel free to link me to were they are advertised delivered for 308 with plug
-
Right on the money there mate. Customers of mine have said they could have saved thousands if they did it right the first time
+1
Settle down mate, he HAS done it....so have I. He asked for people's personal experiences. rb26s13 personally experienced reading that other guys shit response and power figure so duly commented on its shitness. Other people made POSITIVE comments without 'personal experience' but you don't cry about that.
There's no need to rant on about snotting people in the face. That won't get you anywhere...and it'll get you there fast.
Unlike the Ebay turbo...it has much lag so it will get you there slow.
The fact of the matter is, it's hit and miss. You can buy good stuff from Ebay, or sometimes you can get crap. If you don't mind the gamble, then go for it.
Yeah, most of the crap I have been handed over the years hasn't survived the first drive. I pretty much refuse to fit them now.
i have personal experience fitting a t3t4 to an sr20 and have been in one of the previously mentioned cars that had a t70.. the t3t4 one wasnt to bad.. but was just done as a cheap laugh.. only ever ran 10psi thru factory s13 computer and afm
the other one with the t70 on an sr20 previously mentioned from memory was running 16psi when i went in it and well.. the lag was absolute crap the wastegate barely opened for 1500rpm with the 7000-7500rpm limiter and well the kick for that 2000rpm or so were it made more than 4psi boost was pathetic...
-
surely someone is after one or a pair of basically brand new afm's...
-
ok what is u guys problems, this topic is about ebay turbos not about u giving the ppl shit that have them we asked what and how there ebay turbo is going, so u keyboard bandits go take a walk because i would sure as hell snot u in the face if i saw u out, if they want to spend $150 on a cheap turbo so be that its not your problem and by the sounds of it he is happy so stop raining on his peraide. how would u like it if i started calling you peice of s**t car junk and the bits on it? for $150 is better than stock and its lasted so far.
the point of this topic is
"I know these turbos are cheap, and people HATE them..
I just want to hear PERSONAL experiences.. dont just tell me there shit.. dont botter..
unless youve done it."
IF they survive more than first start up they are extremely laggy and make piss poor power for there shitty lag. if your goin to mod cars.. dont be cheap with moving parts.. especially the main powermaker in the whole thing.. you really do get wat you pay for with turbos.
-
junk whys junk and not t3t4 its t4t3 t4 intake for mass air in and t3 exhaust for quick spool and mass flow out
its junk cause your "quick" spool is absolutely pathetic 10psi by 3800 is shithouse for 220rwkw.
-
are you having problems with actual boost spiking? how many degrees is the flap coming out before it hits?
-
Well heres the damge bill from that nano second of shit and disaster
Gearbox...chopped
clutch pressure plate andflywheel....Chopped
Engine.....chopped due to a chunk being blasted from the back of the block
dump.....choppped
starter motor.....chopped
clutch slave......chopped
bellhousing spacer plate....chopped
Braided clutch line....chopped
turbo water line.....chopped
Tore down the engine on the weekend so we can get the crank and jun pump xrayed. I dont anticipate any props but i am not taking any chances.
Now the madness begins all over again.
Oh happy Days!
not good to hear at all mate... that box is here if you need it
-
GTR run
This might be old but i believe it is alot better then the one posted.
have to dissagree... its a bloke abusing a dyno compared to a car doin an insane launch and taking off in a rocket ship having to dodge cars down the street!
-
as i told you on the phone 2 hours ago.. you need to put the box and motor back together
dickheads -
I know, why I said its impressive for what it is - still is (aside from power) more suited to drag runs than the R34 GTR mentioned here. Maybe a better example would have been "Put the R34 GTR's engine in Hi Octane's GTR". On that note, aren't they actually going to an RB30 now?
why put the engine in? the engine wouldnt be the problem if they wanted to go fasted for drag, it'd be suspension and other things like gearing.
-
umm hi octane is a track dedicated car.. not really a reference as a drag car allthough still suprisingly quick
another thing i do find rather amusing from DVSGOD is the fact that he even said it himself.. he wont list specs he just hands over the money.
i also believe the HT car thing is bullshit.. 1200hp would be a underestimate in my opinion..
-
I dont think you actualy read my post ,go back and try again..
you seem to have a great vendetta against rips.. honestly i dont give a shit, i dont have any experience with rips so im neither for or against this stupid pointless OFFTOPIC argument thats goin on in this thread... but most of wat ive heard has been good about them.. and there fuel systems to look tasty and gives me ideas for when i get around to making my own.
-
www.xe.com, in there you will find a NZD to AUD converter, use that before posting nonsense.
RIPS RB30 awd stock rebuild 600hp/7200rpm from rips (new bearings, trust oil pump, 4wd block adapter, sump, and all the other mods) = $4080 AUD. Try building a similar rb26 thats can make that power, torque and response for 4 grand. You can even sell your stock rb26 bottom end off for lets say of $1000+ making it $3000 for a 600hp bottom end.
The "17kNZD" Rb30 fully forged bottom end ready to bolt up = 13,700AUD, thats a 1200hp bottom end for 13K, with the benifit of torque/response over the rb26. Sell your stock rb26 bottom end for $1000+ and put on the rips rb30 and you can have a 1200hp bottom end for around 12,500 AUD, sounds like a great deal to me, no wonder r.i.p.s are selling these by the dozens.
Some how i dont think you can come close to beating that.
the funny thing is.. the guy didnt even look on the rips website first as i pulled this from there site a couple seconds ago.
"RB30 Bare forged bottom ends (short block), start at NZD$10,450 (suit minimum 750hp and 8000 rpm)"
-
Yeah thats a fair point.
Soon as anything shiny is seen in the engine bay its off through the ringer, so depending on what you want, use etc you are restricted in some ways depending on where you live.
I remember being in Wellington a couple years back and a VN with a massive blower sticking out the bonnet came driving past.
And friends i was with said ye, that doesn't really get much attention over here.
I nearly fainted
yeh when a mate of mine from NZ was telling me wat you could get away with over there in the ways of mods i couldnt believe it..
-
naprec valves are good and cheap. I don't know who sells them in aus, I bought mine in japan, but I'm sure you can get them here too.
ive heard that the naprec valves run a smaller than standard size stem which could cause possible reliability problems in the long term with big revs..
i assume you've got the 1.5mm oversize..
so how are yours holding together and how long have they been in the car?
dickheads
Tuned..... 1002hp R34 T88gk 18cm Monster!
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
interesting... wats the idle like.. i assume you'd probaly have troubles getting it down to 1000-1100 range with injectors of that size? than again.. the cams in that thing would be rather large and probaly prefer an idle around the 1200rpm mark?