Spammeoff
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Posts posted by Spammeoff
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Sorry should have made it a bit clearer.....
The readings were taken when that mark was reached, so from the 1/4 mark until the E light came on was 96kms.
I can only do ~30kms on my light, I have done it before, and conked out
And while we're on it... putting car in neutral while coasting isn't a good idea, idling requires more fuel than an overrun situation (I doubt SK could turn off his injectors while idling right?). And also, good work!
I've been shocked at the pitiful range on the fuel light the Stagea has compared to other japs, caught me out when I first bought it.
Oh, and to really measure fuel consumption accurately, you wanna full tank to brim, drive til about empty with tripometer recording, refill to brim, and however many litres that fill required vs the K's you've just done is your economy. But then maybe you were just looking specifically for max k's outta one tank, hence you should have run it dry for us!!! ahahaha
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Fuel issues are only getting 200km per tank which is costing me a fortune. doesnt seem to matter how i drive it (hard or soft) i still get terrible fuel economy... having a new o2 sensor installed as we speak
Then they could be talking about lack of closed loop control giving you poor cruise/idle fuel economy(due to stuffed O2). Generally in a full tune, they would input fuel values for all conditions that were close to ideal, so you shouldn't get shocking fuel economy after a good tune, even without closed loop control.
I don't get heaps better than that myself (used 16L to do 71km's around town the other day, but prob too much boosting). But anyway, I thought mine was too rich, and thought factory O2 was stuffed. Last night I put my LC-1 Wideband O2 sensor on it and went for a drive, 14.5:1 under all idle and cruise conditions! That surprised me, thought it'd be far worse.
Would be very much to your advantage if you could borrow/buy an Innovate Motorsports LM-1/LC-1 and analyse your mixtures, then you'd know before/after, and not have to put all trust in what the workshop tells you. Not too mention you'd then have crucial gear for tuning your ecu yourself if you ever wanted to.
I reluctantly paid $400 (NZ) for mine(and display it on my old laptop), but now I love it and can't imagine not buying it, I'd have no idea what my cars are doing!
Bottomline, it's hard to diagnose fuel troubles, especially with an aftermarket ecu, without some kind of AF reading gear.
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Change of plan
I bought a falcon sensor from Repco i think it only cost me $58 (hope its the right one)
The auto elec is charging me about $70 to fit it... It was going to be a 2 week wait for the genuine nissan part.
Quick question, can the power FC be tuned with a faulty o2 sensor? i.e. does the wide band sensor they stick in the exhaust mean that it doenst matter about the faulty one up front?
The reason i ask this is because i just paid for my car to be tuned, and when i rang up complaining about fuel issues they told me my o2 sensor was buggered... So did they tune it right and the new sensor will fix my problems? or did i get ripped off?
Depends on what fuel issues you were complaining about, all the tuning under load they'd have used their Wideband O2 for, and your factory narrowband isn't part of the equation. But if your mixtures are wrong under light load and idle, and the Power FC is setup to use closed loop with the factory narrowband, then a stuffed one would be a problem yep.
How do you mean you've got fuel issues?
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I thought that the general idea was that the Skyline/Stagea motors were the same in all these major aspects, whereas what you've seen here indicates what I'd call a pretty big difference. Shows you shouldn't make assumptions on these things, Nissan seem to be willing to customise their engines for various cars in quite major ways looking at that manifold difference! And obviously consider the Skyline somewhat more performance orientated, not that its a surprise I guess..
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http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GREDDY-E-MANAGE-ULT...1QQcmdZViewItem
good price!! but are they worth the extra bux over SAFC etc?
They are a big upgrade over SAFC or other basic Interceptors. See the E-man-Ult reads the AFM signal, but doesn't alter it. It splices into the Injector wiring, and leans/richens by changing Inj Pulse-width itself, instead of tricking the factory ECU. The factory ECU can't tell anythings odd, as RPM, AFM, TPS all line-up fine, so it just runs as normal (no fuel cuts, or too much ignition advance/retard).
The E-man-Ult does the same trick with your ignition timing. Its got most of the power of a wire-in standalone ECU, but keeps other factory ECU functions you need, like shift-logic on an auto for example.
And it doesn't need a hand-controller to program, it has a USB connection for your laptop yeehaaa!
Writings on the wall for tricky new vehicles and standalone systems, hence chipping late evo's etc being so popular, and when you wanna tune it yourself, an E-man-Ult for this sorta price is a lot of tuneability for not too much $$. Or so I think
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If your willing to spend $1k or so a Greddy E-manage Ultimate can do the job. You need to know a little about which harnesses to buy, so ask a dealer in your area, or have a read here:
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Just built the DFA, and all working well.
Only one hiccup... if your changing voltage at an input load, say you hold down the 'double-up' button, after a couple of secs of holding it, it jumps to +128, which is fine. But if I then hold the 'double-down' button, it starts decreasing, but then jumps back to +128, like if I'd been holding the up button.
Anyone else seen this?? Hardly seems likely to be building fault to me, maybe PIC fault. Means to decrease I have to keep tapping button, holding it down makes it jump to +128 every time!
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Do you guys often find that many posts, even recent ones, that were supposed to contain pics just say 'user posted image' with no picture?? I do, and its pretty annoying. Is this from some photo hosting sites dropping your pics after a week or something??
I use www.imageshack.us and I couldn't see how other sites could be faster or easier, and I've never had a pic disappear....... >:-|
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Hey Tangles, how have you attached your boost gauge up there? I wouldn't mind doing the same!
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I think a boost gauge needs to be within line-of-sight of tacho (and maybe road) its the kinda gauge you wanna watch relative to rpm. A nice pillar mount would be good, but I wouldn't wanna drill holes in my A-pillar, a pod stuck with adhesive might be good. Or a steering column pod would be even better for a small gauge, has anyone seen these? Would R33 one fit? (If they are produced?)
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1997 25T RS Four V (Series I), Silver, Leather Seats (non-heated), Twin Sunroofs, Tweeters in A-pillars, IEBC Installed at 7psi, all std otherwise.
Nismo LM GT2 18" Wheels.
Tryin on some EVO7 wheels in this shot, decided it had to be the Nismo's!
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It'd work, but of course you'd get richer running across all loads and revs which is a bit of a compromise. For the cost of a adjustable fuel regulator you can pretty much buy the Jaycar digital fuel adjuster and hand controller and get lots of adjustment, and just where you need it. Although with standard boost, and premium fuel, I'd have thought 12.5:1 would be a good ratio? Maybe not on a 30deg day I guess.
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According to this: http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/s...a/2000_6/21829/
The S2 Auto and Manual both have 280ps, which doesn't surprise me too much.
I was under the impression Stagea rb25det runs a little less boost that R33 versions. Like 6-7psi Stagea, 8psi Skyline. Although that would imply different ECU maps, otherwise, based on Stagea AF's, the Skyline would be too rich.
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If your AF is really 12.5 on boost, even standard boost, then its a lot leaner than factory, which would go some way to explaining the power. I'm sure you'd notice if it had a interceptor, so maybe its got a chipped ECU? Someone could have fitted a generic lean-out/advance chip, they're pretty common for popular engines like RB25det in NZ anyway. I'm under the impression for a bit of a 'general' tune the chip guys can do not a bad job.
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Is anyone going to be bringing these in as low volume imports?
Or do they miss out under the new legislation??
If they are available anyone know what kind of Cash they would sell for??
I'd be tempted to haggle this one down (as I'm in NZ), high as K's, but still, how stuffed can it be. Then again its still about twice what I paid for a S1, so is it worth it.
Its the real-deal 400Nm of torque one though.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-49203407.htm
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I'm in New Zealand, city of Christchurch. Stagea's aboud here by comparison to Oz I would imagine. Checkout the high K's one on Trademe for $4500. Just about parts car money eh. ...Hope they're not reading this
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I've had mine out for a couple of weeks with no probs at all. I found I had to loosen off a cable going to the auto that real close to the shaft to get it out. And I found the nuts on the flange at the front were real tight, you need reasonable access and good spanners or you might round them off.
I covered up the hole in the gearbox with duct tape so no road grime got in there. Tape hadn't moved after a few weeks. Pretty easy to get overly loose in rwd mode if the auto kicks down mid-corner and you weren't ready......
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Haha, how'd you figure that out....?? Not a bad trick, just before now I dropped bov off at engineering shop to have hole welded up, and yes small one on underside of bov. Setting up the iebc this weekend, so wanted to make the most of it I guess.
Be interesting to pressure test my intake for leaks now..
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Fair enough, if the valve body isn't leaking under whatever boost your running, and the car's an auto, then it certainly isn't doing any harm. The small hole is still some sort of compromise though, a calculated boost leak to provide some other functionality that I'm not aware of.
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So tonight I blocked the little 2-3mm hole in the bov with some duct tape and went out and tried to stall the engine (thinking it would.. see above), but nope no stalling at all. So that little hole will serve some purpose, but blocking it didn't cause stalling. So I put my bov blanking plate back on for another test to be sure, and yep, stalling again. Btw all testing has been done once engine at operating temp, won't stall when it's cold.
So I figure the best solution for me is to refit the factory bov with that little hole permanently blocked (as its a boost leak in my opinion). I figure it'd be best to weld that hole, anything you jam in there you risk going through the motor.
So then no stalling, but I will test that bov for leakage even with that bypass hole blocked, last time I tested it I didn't know about that hole, so naturally I thought bov was leaking! I wonder if many others have made that mistake.
But of course Nissan put that little air bypass through the bov back to the turbo inlet for some reason, I wonder what I'd be loosing by blocking it off...
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Ska is correct I believe
If you have a look at you blowoff valve when it is off the car, on the underside there is a small hole approx 2-3mm diameter
This allows a constant bleed of air back thru the inlet. The factory ECU is expecting it. When you blank it off, or fit an aftermarket blowoff valve, you get the stall problem
Fitting a SAFC or new ECU can fix this problem, as you can turn the system not to allow for the constant bleed of air.
You can test this theory, by refitting your factory blowoff valve, but put a bit of electrical tape across the little hole and see what happens.
Let us know if still stalls
Great explanation Darrin thanks! I will check that out tonight then. Couldn't find that info elsewhere actually, the small hole bit that is. I'm about to go for the Jaycar DFA so maybe I can sort it out then.
So just to straighten this out in my mind... the vacuum present at the vacuum line on the BOV, is sucking air through that little hole, and essentially bypassing the butterfly. I take it thats what you mean? The only other place for air to be going would be on the recirc path back to the post-afm turbo intake point, and I couldn't see why that would effect idle/stalling.
So maybe I'll modify my blanking plate for that operation eh? Still not happy with a leaky bov.
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The first time I drove the S1 it stalled in exactly the same way,but turning into a servo. I thought it was low on fuel. Then it was ok, next day it did it twice more but has not done it since. The bov could have been stuck due to time since given a good run.
Remembering my car doesn't stall with stock bov on, only with the blanking plate. I haven't seen a good explanation, or figured out yet for myself, the physics of why the blanking plate might make it stall.
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Ummm also I thought that without a BOV venting the pressure when it does, that pressure goes back down and causes your turbo to effectively "cut" the air, where is spins forward then reveres then forward again, producing that horrible "flutter" noise which is popular with ricers.
BOV are there for a purpose, I would think long and hard about leaving it off. Also do a bit of searching abut this subject, it has been discussed lots of times, mainly in the Forced Induction section.
Just reading that you guys have "blocked off" where the BOV used to me sent shivvers down my spine..................
I've had my BOV blocked off for a while. When I discovered it leaking I preferred that to loosing boost. And yes the air flutter noise everytime you back off from boost is very noticeable, but didn't concern me.
What was a problem though was that with no BOV the car was stalling when you backed off after loading the engine. Problem could be reproduced everytime if you stalled up the auto using a quick stab on the gas, then backing off completely, the engine would stall. Became a problem when entering tight round-abouts off the gas and turned quite sharp, the power-steering load would stall the motor, and you nearly go up the curb etc.
Putting the BOV back on eliminated the prob altogether, but I'm not clear on why no BOV caused this. Will investigate. Maybe I had a vacuum leak when I removed the BOV.
Help Wildcat Out
in Wagoneers
Posted
Match in the tank time.