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craig V8 taffe

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Everything posted by craig V8 taffe

  1. Cheapest CTP...AAMI is pretty good. i'm 22 and was quoted 560 last year.. they're all pretty much the same. For thrid party prop plus 5k fire & theft... i went with justcar for 548 but they've jacked up the price 100 this year to 648.
  2. Nissan's latest marketing tactic is to join up with ecko clothing... http://www.motorauthority.com/cars/nissan/...gner-marc-ecko/ I bet this idea came from some machiato sipping advertising homo..
  3. Sorry mate.. Blatant case of more money than taste. But beauty is in the eye of the beholder. If you're happy with it then that's all that matters. For me.. doing that to a GT-R is sacrilege. If you wanted widebody u shud hav gone for a JGTC racer look. But good on you for the effort, a job like that takes some balls.
  4. I'm not worried about losing my car. When i first got my car it was a real bargain.. that's why i got the auto but i think now it's not worth converting. Rego for me will cost close to $1000 (my CTP is like 560) and i was planning an exhaust for another 1000. I've always wanted a manual so if i had to trade i wouldn't mind paying up to 5k on top. There are some real bargains with some basic mods already done. http://www.autotrader.com.au/ad/adnumber_6...subs_Used+Cars_ http://www.autotrader.com.au/ad/adnumber_W...subs_Used+Cars_ http://www.autotrader.com.au/ad/adnumber_W...subs_Used+Cars_
  5. The price of 34's have dropped so much in the past 6 months.. my rego has almost expired and i'm considering trading my auto 34 gt-t for a manual. My car is completely stock, except for a kenwood LCD head-unit, clean car. 90k klms. I've seen some good manual 34's with exhaust, FMIC plus other mods for around 26 - 27k. How much do you reckon i cud get for my car in a trade-in? How hard is it to get a dealer to reduce their advertised price? or do they usually not budge? thanks.
  6. Not as tuff as i was expecting the new HSV to be... http://www.motorauthority.com/cars/general...-of-the-ve-hsv/ Looks like a big Mazda 6 IMO.. Still would prefer a 300C anyday but who wants a V8 these days.
  7. The led tail-lights look damn cool but are a serious waste of money IMO. I think they're extremely expensive but maybe they were just the set i saw. Can't remember where i saw it. BTW what set of wheels are in that pic??
  8. I personally find white cars with black rims looks the best.. won't have to clean em as often. My favourite is a glossy black mesh pattern with a deep chrome lip.
  9. Found this and thought it was pretty wierd. Apparently the new Laguna might use the VQ 3.5L from the 350Z... http://www.motorauthority.com/cars/renault...edan-and-coupe/ Can't stand that the new Nissans are starting to look like homo french cars.. looks like the gayness goes both ways.
  10. I feel bad for this guy. He's young, so he's still learning. He doesn't attack anyone with his posts so try n lighten up guys. However, there are a couple of issues - First, he has had a lot of accidents - i find this very hard to believe. I thought your car was a write-off and you wanted a rx7 with the payout??? Was the 34 fixed? Second, you had a serious accident and if i remember correctly still made it to your english exam... with glass still in your hair? WTF... I think all anDru/anJoo's posts are one long running joke that no-one but him and his school mates find amusing. To answer tge thread...I live in Sydney and find most drivers pretty good. Perhaps i'm just lucky...
  11. Exactly, the GOVT puts a huge tax on these "luxury" vehicles to try and keep the Aust car industry ticking along. What they don't realise is that economically its very bad to keep inefficient industries floating due to import taxes. In America, for example, you can buy a brand new 330i for about A$50,000. You can get a 325i for just under A$40,000. And I bet if they sold the 320i there (they don't becuase yanks don't want 4cyl) it would be closer to A$30,000.
  12. I think ur missing the point. When he said technology he just meant the new Alloytec engine introduced in the VZ that is now in the VE.
  13. Looks like the mutual mastubation by the Australian journos will continue with actual test-drives of the VE to start this week.. i've given up on Drive, Wheels, Motor... These publications have just been going downhill. Every edition now looks like a Holden sponsored orgy.
  14. Came across this today.. i think it was on that beyond show on channel 7 monday night. http://www.motorauthority.com/news/gadgets/drag-tag/ Seems like a waste of money IMO but i'm sure there'll be alot of you guys who'd luv it. Any SAU guys used it yet?
  15. Not bad to see nissan build more than 100 million cars.. hehe that would include my u12 pintara. http://www.motorauthority.com/news/industr...-millionth-car/ Hoy many of you guys are nissan loyalists??
  16. I think the obvious idiot here is you. It doesn't matter what time, that kind of speed is wrong. That area is 60 and not 100 for a reason. Maybe when your balls drop you will realise that. You do an advance driving course and think your king shit.. more like king of shit. Grow up mate.
  17. Mines done 86K and is still smooth as, even though i thrash it a bit. Feels similar to when i got it which was 60K. I change the oil rougly every 5K klms - note it isn't the smoothest 6 around so you may think it sounds rough when you first drive it. btw mine's fairly stock. I would be quite surprised if the k's in the previous post are genuine (tho not sure of medel yr)- i wouldn't trust a pre 2000 model that's done less than 40K. Make sure you change filters and belts espicially if 100,000 service hasn't been done.
  18. Hey thanks for that Stan. BD4s would be good coz i live in the next suburb. Are they considered pricey, do they insist on using HKS stuff or can you supply your own stuff? Oh and anyone used MRT performance, i know they do amazing stuff with evos - anyone with a skyline use them? Thanks
  19. Anyone had any experience with either CRD or BD4s in Sydney for a R34? Do they only use expensive brand name stuff or is better to go to small tuner? This would be for minor mods - basically keeping stock turbo. Anyone use Bankstown Muffler fit as well? Thanks
  20. Mate, i'm currently a full time student in 4th year uni. I'm on my green P's in NSW with one point left. I drive an R34 gt-t everyday for uni and a part time job. It has some minor mods and still goes VERY hard - my last car was a U12 Pintara I got a loan from the Commo Bank ($20000) plus my own savings. Loan repayments cost me $88 per week but i try to put in as much as i can - only got $9500 to go. Managing your finances will depend on how mature you are. I don't personally know you but if you have a steady job i'd say get the turbo - you WILL regret the NA. Comprehensive insurance cost me $2300 from JustCar - might go up this year coz of fines . Speeding fines will come and go - i have delayed a fine since October 05 and still going good. Auto skylines are fine and still very quick. Insurance and rego fees come once a year - no biggie. I could have moved out or stay at home and get my R34 (No Contest really). I still pay parents some board and help out when i can. I pay for the car myself, some weeks are tough but i have NEVER regretted getting the loan. Everyday i drive to uni or work i always have a huge smile once i give it some poke. If your spending $$$ on your girl i hope your getting some wheneva u like. When u meet a new girl make it clear that she has to pay her part from the start, otherwise dump her. Don't be a tight-arse, just not some wussy chump - did i mention it is Fcukn' easy to pick up with the line, sure usually not girlfriend material, but hey who wants just one. Hope my advice helps.
  21. Smurf, i know my previous comment seems rough. I totally understand the need to present a professional image when it's due. But this is Australia and buying something you do not completely want simply to impress others is the wrong attitude - especially something as expensive as a car. If you can only accommodate owning one car and you have to drive around clients, then yes you should consider a 4 door for practical reasons. If your 50 million dollar clients are judging you on what car you drive then they have issues of their own - you should not let their prejudice or small penis size effect your life. You're not doing donuts or burnouts in the car park before meetings are you? In the end you have to live with it. APS twin turbo Kit + Munro = Mean piece of meat.
  22. Hey guys, there was too much oil - at the top of the disptick marking. The manual states 5.3L but i'm assumning this is with a full engine flush or something. I ended up draining some and getting it to around 4.5L - there's always some residual oil. It idles normally now and sounds the same as it used to and the oil pressure reads the same as before, around 2 at idle. Unfortunately it's still rough while cruising round 1500-2000 rpm. Hopefully i havn't damaged it - i'll try changing to some better oil. Thanks for the feedback guys
  23. A reality for you to succeed? Firstly, i think you should get your hand off it mate and i don't mean the gear stick. You want to buy a certain type of car because of what others will think of you - are you serious? Secondly, grow some balls and buy whateva puts a smile on your face. Personally i'd buy a 68 Monaro and drop a Chev 427 small-block for my next ride.
  24. The manual states 5.3 L for an RB25DET with an oil filter change. I put in about 5.5L. Is this too much? I'll try draining some. It does read at the top on the dipstick. Also when driving it's more rough at 1500 - 2000rpm then it was with the old oil which had done 7000km, Castrol GTX3 btw (i think 15w 40). Thanks for the feedback
  25. Hey guys, i own a 98 r34 gt-t tiptronic with 85K klms. Recently i changed my oil and oil filter and pretty much the day after the car idles rough and is also noisier at idle - the smoothness of the week after an oil change wasn't there. I made the mistake of using cheap oil - Caltex Havoline or something (10w - 30). Also the oil pressure reading at idle is slighter lower than normal. Usually it reads 2 but now it reads like 1.7 or something. Can the cheaper oil do this or maybe i moved some wire or connection while removing the old oil filter? Are there any important leads down there? ANy help would be great - thanks.
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