Careless

and is this belt stronger than the dayco, or better made? and is it for use with the dual lower tensioners?

In due time, Baron. Once I take the head off for it's 6 to 12 month inspection (provided it works as planned) I'll do up the head with some larger valves, stiffer springs, and taller/wider cams. Then I should make real power. For now, keeping it mid-range isn't going to dissapoint me. I know there's a lot more to be had in terms of power by doing extensive head work. But I have to take things one step at a time, and these hks cams that I got will allow me to make some money back when I sell them to someone with a mild skyline that they want to upgrade at a later time as well. Cheers.

You strike a good point, Adriano. I'll look into the Dayco Belt. Infact, I'll call dayco head office to find out where I can get this belt from. Are there any other stronger belts than the Dayco? I dunno, dayco belts look so cheap and weak.

absolutely. even mid-build =) i ask that you pay no attention to the Canadian accent (if any), ahead of time

Indeed. I want to get the bottom end buttoned up first, then I'll get some more money over the winter to button up the valve train and make some real power with the Wolf V500 unit that i'll hopefully be getting. and the piston to valve clearance is going to dictate how tall a cam I can use as well, so I'll be looking at that carefully. I think 11:1 is the safest bet for me, however 10.5:1 isnt a huge decrease in power, but for an N/A, i guess you could say it is. thanks for the heads up

well, the only thing i can see getting in the way is having to buy custom pistons, a selection of headgaskets and doing custom head work. the exhaust is going to be made by myself, and would cost the same or even less than a turbo manifold that is built well. I've got the flanges already. i dont think the rods will need to be modified, and the belt is still up in the air (as no one has replied to my Gates Powergrip GT2 belt thread with any success stories, all hearsay). The reason why I'm asking a lot of questions, as you all know (by looking at the board index for the passed day or two) is so that when it's said and done, I don't end up buying 2 or 3 things over again, as you stated. LOL

anyone?

Hi Greg, Thank you, greatly, for the king bearing clearance chart. I've attached what ACL Bearings provides. Would it make more sense to use this chart, as I'll be (most likely) buying ACL goodies? What I've got already is: Spool Rod set, HKS 264 8.7mm cams on In- and Ex-. HKS RB26 Cam Gears, and will probably be having the machinist do some headwork. Hopefully he can give me a set of his part moulds if he uses some so that I can compare the stock to the reground ports to see what he's done. I don't think I'll be doing any work to the valve train for now, as budget is a tad limited (budgeting some cash for the car itself). I may upgrade to stiffer valve springs and higher lift cams, provided my piston choice allows me to set that up for the future. As for pistons, I might as well just get fully custom slugs. No point in machining a set of shelf pistons and weakening ring lands and crown material. I'd rather just play the safe bet and put some more money towards some properly made goodies. Chances are I'll be using a thin MLS Gasket. perhaps Cometic, maybe Tomei or Greddy if the price is comparable. I would go ACL as well, but they dont make 1.0 mm gaskets, so I'll have to find them elsewhere. I've got the crank collar as well, and I'll order the other parts once I've purchased the pistons (was gonna buy the running gear just now, but I figured i'd buy the internal goodies first). Hopefully with some good advice and my documentation, more people will feel comfortable trying new things with their expensive engines because they're curious to know what results they can get, which is why i'm doing this. and besides, If i wanted to make a lot more power down the road, all i'd have to do is get some more new pistons and just add a huge snail on the end of my exhaust

Ideally, what i'm shooting for is a safe engine with virtually no knocking on 94 octane gas. safest range I've heard of is near 11.5:1 so if I do some head work and manage to drive it on a nice cool day (It's Canada, not a rare thing to say the least), I might be able to get by on 11.5:1 but there will be those muggy days. damnit, if only they made hydraulic/electronically controlled headgaskets and stretchable belts that could grow extra teeth on command.

my apologies as well. It just seems as though everywhere I go, everyone questions why I'm building an N/A motor since turbos are much more efficient. If that were the case, however, I would have saved the money and got an LS2 and dropped that in the Z without modifying a single thing on the engine. But I have my plans, and I'm sticking to my guns. Truce?

well the thing is, I have a friend who imports RB30's, and He also was going to build one for himself, but he decided to scrap the idea, and he's left with a blown RB26 that has a good head and all the sensors and gadgets i need, and it's half the price of a regular GTR engine, and he's tossing in some HKS cams and cam gears as well. So it's a little hard to pass up, and i want all the displacement I can get. so you guys mean to tell me that there are no specs to look at when assembling this engine? surely the FSM has some data to use. there are literally thousands of engines on the planet, and each of them has somewhat different clearances, I doubt my machinist would just "know" I'd feel much more comfortable going with stock settings and adjusting them to the high side, rather than going out on a whim with what to use for clearance.. so ideally, if someone can scan those pages.....

Thanks SysLink. I wouldnt mind if you asked questions at all. Hence why im trying to ask people here what to do in regards to bottom end prep. I want my engine to be within the best possible shape before assembly. Good luck with your build as well, and thank you for the support. Now does anyone have an RB30 FSM that they can either send me, or pull some pages from and scan?

for a technical forum you have some quite rude comments to make about peoples choices in what they desire to do/build. not once did i ask for any of your input on whether or not it would be a good idea, and you also don't know the situation that every person on this forum is in, therefore, i find it poor judgment on your part to be slandering any future build plans that anyone has on this forum just because you don't like it. whether you've built an insane-oh RB30 with a turbo larger than a watermelon, or whether you work out of your garage building miniature v8's. it's all the same shit, and I don't really care for negative comments. I find it funny how when SydneyKid lists what he would do to an RB30 with a full list of parts, and what car he would stuff it in, everyone seems to go WOW THAT SOUNDS AWESOME. yet, when I start an engine build (with some help from cubes and sydneykid himself), and decide to put it in virtually the same car that sydneykid mentioned, it suddenly becomes taboo? get real man. the fact that we're here and we're all building engines should be enough to warrant some kind of an applause, rather than some childish remark like that. I, myself, am after the bottom end clearances and such. I have the manuals for the R32, 33, 34 RB25 and 26 engines for all generations. However, I do not have an RB30 FSM so I can't be sure of what to use as a proper clearance for connecting rod, and main bearing clearances and all bottom end parameters. if someone can supply that, I would appreciate it quite a bit.

new website, looks slick (props, Cubes) EDIT: In light of this question, I'd like to help out any confused users, myself, and cubes as well, in refining his guide to the best that we can in regards to what works and what doesnt. I think it will greatly clear up any confusion and narrow down the belt choices. Comparing the dayco to the gt2, the gt2 seems to be way stronger, which might mislead people as to whether it should be used (this is where I sit, im trying to figure out if it's worth it) I've attached a pic of the section in the guide that shows the belt and the two tensioners. HOWEVER, the belt itself cannot wrap that far around the crank drive gear from what I've tried, whereas the stock SOHC Dayco belt that came with my RB30 does, infact, loop all the way around to the point where I'm 2 teeth short of completing a full 360 wrap around the drive gear. Someone told me that if i put the tensioners on and slide the belt over at the end of everything, it should work fine. I'm having trouble believing that with the belt and gear in hand. Is it at all possible that the RB26 gear is somewhat different, and should I use that instead?

so i guess cubes won't be able to revise the RB30 guide, considering no one has owned up and posted pictures of their successful belt install with the gates 1200 8mgt 30 cut down to size. it seems as though no one has tried this belt, and no some will be mislead (however, cubes is definately not reponsible, as i read his disclaimer, and bought the belt based on my own decision) anyone know anymore about htis thing?

correct, but as stated, the GT2 belt is far stronger than a standard timing belt, im sure. just looking at its construction is enough to tell that. i'd be happier knowing that I can run the GT2.

Hey all, Sending my engine to the machinist this week, and I need some block specs. anyone got the pages that I would require for the machinist to do the works on my engine? RB30 block with 26 head if it matters. Mild street engine with light track duty. N/A, not turboed. High RPM, High Compression (11:1 if i can) anyone got the pages I need and can scan? Thanks a ton! Raff

13070-42L00 RB26 TENSIONER 13070-5L300 RB25 TENSIONER why would there be a different part number, even in the Nissan FAST parts system?

well i'd assume that a professional belt replacement or cutting outfit would have the proper tool to slice the belt cleanly so that it looks as it came from factory that way. but some people are saying the gates fits, and i tried wrapping my SOHC dayco belt over the gear drive, and it goes, but the gates doesnt i think it's cause the teeth are rounded, rather than trapezoidal.

I can get the Nissan OEM ones for less than that here in Canada, shipped from the US. it will be about 100 CAD when said and done. nismoparts.com

well... i have the gates powergrip belt, can i still use this with the upper tensioner location perhaps move it in a couple of mm to make up for the two teeth?

Hey everyone, I couldn't find the dayco belt here in Canada, so what I've done was gone ahead and purchsed the Gates GT2 powergrip belt, 1200 mm long, 30 mm wide, 8 mm depth. After wrapping the belt around the crank drive gear, I noticed that it gets about 1/3 around the gear, and some of the belt teeth begin to buckle against the gear teeth. I know it wasn't guaranteed, but this is a damn sturdy belt, and I would like to use it cause it looks like it can survive an airstrike. they're made for 11 - 20,000 rpm machinery, so that should be worth noting. however, it doesn't seem to wrap around perfectly. And i think i would have to cut it down to around 27 mm for it to fit properly too. does anyone have any experience with this belt? Thanks, appreciate the views/replies, if any. Raff

OK, so i'll just order two RB26 ones then, or whatever's cheaper =/ thanks Ad.

hey guys, i tried checking to see if this was mentioned. I'm putting the RB26 head on my RB30. What tensioners do I use when using the two lower tensioner locations instead of drill tapping a hole near the top flat portion. I have a gates power grip GT2 150 tooth belt, and it's pretty damn sturdy, so i'll just make a thin piece of metal that separates the two teethed sides in the case of any belt flap or what have you. so i've noticed that nismoparts.com has two different tensioners. both RB20/25, and 26. someone told me that if i use the RB26 head, i should use the 26 tensioners, but im not sure if the stud or the construction of the tensioner is the same or if the RB30 block itself is suited to RB25 tensioners rather than 26 ones. Let me know, i want to order everything soon :-D NA high compression RB30DE on it's way... Thanks dudes! Raff

hey guys, i tried checking to see if this was mentioned. I'm putting the RB26 head on my RB30. What tensioners do I use when using the two lower tensioner locations instead of drill tapping a hole near the top flat portion. I have a gates power grip GT2 150 tooth belt, and it's pretty damn sturdy, so i'll just make a thin piece of metal that separates the two teethed sides in the case of any belt flap or what have you. so i've noticed that nismoparts.com has two different tensioners. both RB20/25, and 26. someone told me that if i use the RB26 head, i should use the 26 tensioners, but im not sure if the stud or the construction of the tensioner is the same or if the RB30 block itself is suited to RB25 tensioners rather than 26 ones. Let me know, i want to order everything soon :-D NA high compression RB30DE on it's way... Thanks dudes! Raff