siiick

If its a cheap nasty after market alarm system u got. its usually a piece of metal sliding up and down on the arms that lock the doors. pull the door trims off and have a look, whilst clicking ur button. u should see the problem. I recently just tightened up mine a few days ago.

Thanks heaps for that Deren, my manual did not contain this. I have tried previously, however was not sure if it worked. Is the Hicas light supposed to flash on and off, or does it just light up a little brighter? Because that is what i have seen.

The steering seems possibly better since i cleaned the connectors on the hicas bar. hicas light still remains on all the time. The diagnostic test i found is as follows. 1.Start car in neutral. 2.Turn wheel left and right 20deg a few times 3.Pump the brake 5 times then once more. (all of this within 10 seconds of starting the car) 4.Put it in gear then out 5.Then drive 15 feet forward or backwards. The hicas light is supposed to flash a code or something, is this the test you are referring to?

BUMP!. Still don't know what workshop manual to use, and still having bulk problems...

I gave those connectors on the Hicas unit a clean with CRC but dont think it helped much, still stiff steering. Is there a way to do diagnostic test with the fuses?

When you say clean the connections, are you talking about the two cables connecting to the hicas bar? give those connectors a clean? Deren, which service manual have you used? I've downloaded the R33 Engine service manual, it doesnt seem to have self diagnosis specifically for Hicas.

Cheers for the quick reply. I forgot to mention these: New wheels (225/45/17" IIRC ) went on 2 months ago, and got a four wheel alignment 4 weeks ago. Light only started staying on after starting the car this week though. Took it back to my wheel alignment mechanic to see if he could think of anything, and he suggested it to be an electrical problem and referred me to an auto electrician. Unfortunately finding one that knows these cars could be tricky in my area.

Hey guys, I've recently been experiencing my Hicas light on the dash flash on and off on occasion, like many others have experienced. My steering is now crazy stiff as if there's no power assist, but the fluid is full. This happened over the period of about a week, starting with just the light, and progressing to the tight steering. I've searched Hicas and a lot of you have been experienced different problems and have suggested the hicas lock bar. Does this bar fix all problems relating to the HICAS? Anyone had this particular problem, replaced the bar and fixed it? Could the HICAS light suggest other problems, such as the vehicle speed sensor? (since I'm fairly sure these cars have speed variable power assist) I'm thinking this could be the culprit, but without the means to check the OBD codes, I can't be sure. Is there any other way? Cheers. Richard

Hey guys, I've recently been experiencing my Hicas light on the dash flash on and off on occasion, like many others have experienced. My steering is now crazy stiff as if there's no power assist, but the fluid is full. This happened over the period of about a week, starting with just the light, and progressing to the tight steering. I've searched Hicas and a lot of you have been experienced different problems and have suggested the hicas lock bar. Does this bar fix all problems relating to the HICAS? Anyone had this particular problem, replaced the bar and fixed it? Could the HICAS light suggest other problems, such as the vehicle speed sensor? I'm thinking this could be the culprit, but without the means to check the OBD codes, I can't be sure. Is there any other way? Cheers. Richo PS. Sorry, I just realised I may have posted this in the wrong section.

Hi all, I've got a n/a 33 and i was wanting to change to turbo brakes, and obviously change to 5 stud while im at it. What exactly do i need and how much has it cost those in the past who have recently done this?

Yeh bro just put fawken good old leaded in there she be right. Car might cough and fart bit ay heh but she be right, then just chuck bit of supercheap carby cleaner through intake every 500k's or so car should run sweet. Todays prices i think our only choices is to use the 98 octane. I havent noticed difference between BP and vortex

Are you sure you can feel it in the wheel? It may just be a noise coming from in the cabin.

haha sorry people, can't win em all. Got a mate with 5stud stock wheels, i'll do my research first.

hmm sorry forgot to add im in QLD so maybe next time i'm down there i'll pop in. where abouts you located lunaticR32?

I agree with freddy on the R33 GTS4 quite unique . Although extremely heavy and slow, not good for skids if you are bit of a terry. But otherwise should be able to find a n/a r33 for under $10K. I think the GTS4's come with 5 stud hubs too, another benefit if you are looking for wheels.

Hi all, i'm looking for a set of 17" or 18" wheels 4x114.3. Anyone got any suggestions that look good on a maroon R33, or have any for sale for that matter?

Thanks sydneykid i checked the height and all is within those ranges i don't believe it is because of this or my little slip with the gutter. Here is a picture of what is happening. Basically it is a small crack at the top and a bit of rust is forming, i have seen this on a number of 33's, is it serious? crack_in_top_strut.bmp

no weld marks that i can see, but both of them are cracked similiar amounts, about 3cm long.

Yes just recently, just got a wheel balance and allignment. suspension is in top order. was using stock rims with cheap fat tyres they seemed to take all the impact. Getting it welded again is my only option i believe and maybe not go over any large speed bumps in any hurry.

Hi all i have used this forum to find help but cannot find any on this topic. I have just noticed cracks in welds on both front strut towers. Have not taken it to a mechanic to check. Any reccomendations?