RB25DETC33
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Posts posted by RB25DETC33
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Hey guys for sale:
1998 R34 GT-T Skyline 4 Door
Sunroof model
rb25det
Auto
FMIC
FPR
Coilovers
3" exhaust from dump back.
TA style Rear bar
URAS skirts could use tlc
front bar was smashed by unkind curb, so currently has a series 1 front bar fitted.
Clean interior, just missing map light cover on sunroof controls and tweeter cover on A-pillar trim.
Selling until the car im chasing sells, so will be selling at a pretty cheap price.
$6500 with reg no RWC
$6250 with reg byo wheels no RWC
$6000 no reg no RWC
Body is pretty clean, vinyl wrapped boot, bonnet and b-pillars.
Not interested in swaps.
Txt me on 0422022887 or Pm me
Located on the Sunshine coast QLD
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colour?
$100
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Hey mate u got pics of the skirts?
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Hey mate what colour is the rearbar? and where bouts you located?
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Checked all vac lines? Even under the charcoal canister, sometimes the vac hose coming out the bottom comes off. I had this happen on my 34. You can't see that its come off unless you specifically feel the underside of the canister.
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So I played round with the connections as the exhaust shop left one half clipped and the light has gone off after a good drive, fingers crossed it stays off!
Check the fault code again. Although the light isnt on it may still be faulty. My 34 has the code 33 at the moment, my 02 sensor is shagged but the light doesnt always come on.
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Won't taking each one off individually be bad (even for a short while) since some of them run essential items?
It sounds like a small pig being stabbed
Not the ancilaries. Cars can run without power steering and a/c and the alternator. Its advisable not to run the engine for too long with out the water pump, probs best to do this one first when the car is cold.
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Usually the boots with wings dont open by them selves. The wing stops this. Boots without wings will fly open. Did the guy you bought the new boot struts from have a wing?
I removed my wing and my boot flys open now.
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no doubt the noise is low down but ive had the EXACT same problem on my auto 32 and the EXACT same buzzing sound and itcame from down near the trans, as soon as i had adjusted the tps it stopped
You were correct on the buzzing sounds from the tps. I adjusted the tps and the buzzing did occur in the same place, although for some reason it has not solved my problem....
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I seem to think it could be the park neutral start switch on the gearbox. Ive taken a quick vid showing the issue:
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the buzzing is because your tps is out of adjustment; you can turn your ignition to on- loosen off the screws on the tps and move it around till the buzzing stops then retighten the screws; car should then start
Thanks bud, but its not the tps, its deep down, like near the transmission. Not sure if its a solenoid or what. It only buzzes when the throttle is more than idle. There seems to be spark or there would be a code thrown up when I check the fault codes, but I get code 55.
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Hey guys, so ive had a TPS issue with my r34 (fault code checked and confirmed) and after a period of driving, the cars idle and engine operation become erratic. The car then began not starting, i figured it was due to the tps. Replace the tps and the car still has a problem with not starting. When i press the accelarator down while the engine is not on I get a loud buzzing sound from deep in the engine bay, as if it is near the trans. I do have fuel pressure, not sure on spark but the buzzing is giving me concern.
Anyone had this issue?
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Yep, its a poor as connection, if everything dies, wiggle the connection and everything will come back on.
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If your window is stuck in the down position:
1. Remove door card
2. Find connector clip for power window motor
3. Using multimeter, locate your +12v and GND wires (alternatively remove your car battery and place it near the door)
4. Make a connection between the +12V/GND and the connector clip. Make sure you only tap the wires to the connector clip at first because you may make the motor wind down while it is already down. If this happens, just reverse the + and - wire.
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yeh mate, more than likely the power window amp has blown, the drivers door is the actual switch box itself, passenger doors there is a black relay box in the door.
Before going out and buying power window motor always test the motors as they are a few parts that rarely break in these cars. its usually the relay boxes.
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So looks like it was the thermostat, pulled it out and it did not open in boiling water. so until the new thermostat arrives Ive wedged it open about 50% so as to have some flow, need the car for work and travel to uni, will be keeping a very close eye until the thermostat arrives. Started the car and there is a flow of water through the top tank.
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not yet, ill pull it out tomorrow and test in in some water.
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After the throttle body, before the split pipe, there is a unit towards the front of the motor (it has a black plastic Idle adjustment screw). This is the AAC valve.
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So my R34 has started to over heat. pulled out the radiator and cleaned out all the muck around the fins, flushed the coolant and topped it up.
Drove for 30 mins and the car started to get hot again. I have a feeling the water pump is gone because the car comes up to operating temp REAL fast, Ive read that the thermostats are supposed to open gradually as the temp increases and slows the rate of increase to a gradual rate.
Now Ive driven the car today only to work and back, 5 mins drive home and the car was at operating temp not higher. Im not sure if this is the way to check if your pump is working but I removed the radiator car and then started the car, instantly the coolant rose up and started leaking out of the top, i blew some of it out to lower the height, I check to see if there was a flow of water but there seems to be nothing?
If there are any other ways to check can you please help?
If it is the pump ill order one this week and spend the weekend pulling the front of the car apart.
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Thanks mate, i did an hours worth of look last night found it on here somewhere someone has had a similar problem, they change gbox solenoids, veh. Speed sensor, tps and the problem still exists.... So wanna start on the ruling out part of the job.
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No one has had this problem?
Today the intermittent gearbox slipping reared its ugly head to the point the whole drive train seemed to short out or cut out, the 'D' light flickered off as the car lost all power and drive, i shifted it into manual mode and the lights intermittently flickered between '3' and 'D' while A/T was flashing, lost all power still and car coughed and spluttered. pulled up at lights and turned car off, turned it back on and a/t was flashing and still ahd no go and no normal gearbox operation. still getting a tps code. im at the point where im just going to buy a new tps sensor.
I dont think anyone can help on here by the looks of it.
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Th alternator is essentially the same there will be the two bolts that are used to tension and 1 bolt to anchor the hinge.
Undo the nut the nut that looks like its going through the long tensioning bolt.
Undo the bolt that anchors the hinge (stops you from moving the alternator
Undo the tensioning bolt the alternato should loosen up.
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To remove the power steering belt,
loosen the 12mm tensioning nut below the pump on the right hand side. (on a long thread). Take the nut 3/4 of the way down the thread not off.
slacken the tensioning thread which is the 12mm bolt pretty much below the pump(follow that long thread back to the underside of the pump) the bolt sits the the adjustment slot.
slacken the 14 mm nut above the pump behing the wheel, can be seen in you pic. once these are slack push the pump downwards and you belt will be ready to pull off
To do up again:
Fit belt
Pull pump up the take the tension
Tighten the tension thread bolt
Tighten up the tensioning nut on the long thread and tighten to the required deflection.
Tighten the 14mm bot above the pump.
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yep pretty much straight after posting those photos i googled it and worked out where it was
i'm not convinced it is the motor, i put my multi meter on the 2 signal wires and pressed down and it only came showed 6.5volts which isn't right, should be 12v or -12v depending on direction
Yeh usually the motors last a lifetime, its the switches or amps that blow first. if you know anyone with the same r34 type as you (coupe/sedan) borrow their switch to see if it works.
[sold]r34 Gtt Side Mount Cooler - R34 Gtt/r33 Nismo Engine Mounts/gearbox Mount - Oem Nissan Gaskets
in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Posted
how much for postage to adelaide for the gasket kit?